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1st Gen New Owner needs some help...


Guest Rev'n Ahead

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Guest Rev'n Ahead

just bought an 84 VXZ12:

 

1. need to remove the seat for a patch job - front lifts up a bit but i can't seem to get the seat off... please help

 

2. would like to take the hard bags off the sides and back to get the locks cleaned up and properly clean the bike... but can't seem to get them off either... please help.

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just bought an 84 VXZ12:

 

1. need to remove the seat for a patch job - front lifts up a bit but i can't seem to get the seat off... please help

 

2. would like to take the hard bags off the sides and back to get the locks cleaned up and properly clean the bike... but can't seem to get them off either... please help.

 

Look at the side pieces directly below the rear half of the seat. There is a hole for a socket wrench on each side ... The seat bolts are in there.

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just bought an 84 VXZ12:

 

1. need to remove the seat for a patch job - front lifts up a bit but i can't seem to get the seat off... please help

 

2. would like to take the hard bags off the sides and back to get the locks cleaned up and properly clean the bike... but can't seem to get them off either... please help.

 

On #2, If you look closely you can sort of see the lock wedge that fits in the bag tang and keeps the bag from getting legs. Sometimes, because the lock is really dirty in side the wedge will not pull completely out of the tang. Take a thin knife blade and help it retract. When it's out of the way give the bag a healthy bump towards the rear of the bike. This should get it off.

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If you can not get the key to work in the side bags lock in the front of the bags, open the bag and remove the three screws holding the lock in place. The bag will then slide backwards and lift off. Behind the bag you will see a bolt on each side that holds the seat in place. Once you have the bolts out, the seat will slide back a little and lift off.

Many times, if the bags have not been off in a long time, they may be stuck and difficult to slide back. Be careful not to bang on the bags too hard as you can crack them. I always put a silicon spray lubricant on the bars to help the bags slide. The silicon drys and does not collect dust and dirt like grease does.

Welcome aboard and thanks for joining. This will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike. When you get a chance, post some pictures and tell us some about your bike and about youself. This is a great bunch of folks, but they do enjoy ragging each other if they get a chance.

RandyA

Edited by Venturous Randy
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Behind the bag you will see a bolt on each side that holds the seat in place. Once you have the bolts out, the seat will slide back a little and lift off.

RandyA

 

Am I correctly understanding that the seat bolts are not accessible with the sidebags fully in place? Naughty Yamaha...:no-no-no:

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Am I correctly understanding that the seat bolts are not accessible with the sidebags fully in place? Naughty Yamaha...:no-no-no:

 

I believe on the MKII's like your's, all you have to do is take the bag lid off and you can access the bolts. On the MKI's, you need to remove the bags, which are like removable luggage, to get to the bolts. Either way, I think Yamaha done a good job in the design.

RandyA

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I believe on the MKII's like your's, all you have to do is take the bag lid off and you can access the bolts. On the MKI's, you need to remove the bags, which are like removable luggage, to get to the bolts. Either way, I think Yamaha done a good job in the design.

RandyA

 

I think he said '84, that's a MKI, not MKII. As you probably know, side bags are totally different.

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I believe on the MKII's like your's, all you have to do is take the bag lid off and you can access the bolts. On the MKI's, you need to remove the bags, which are like removable luggage, to get to the bolts. Either way, I think Yamaha done a good job in the design.

RandyA

 

Actually they can be removed even with the lid in place (MKII, I'm talking). That's why I was poo-pooing Yamaha for not leaving them fully accessible on the MKIs too. For shame! Oh well. It's not like we gotta take the seats off frequently anyway- not much to get at under there.

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Yup! You have to first remove the saddlebags. The locks are in front of the saddlebags and you unlock and hit them towards the rear while holding the key in the spring loaded "unlock" position. I advise lubricating the lock prior to trying to use them. Once you finally get the saddlebags off, look along the side rails and you will see an opening about halfway across them. You need a 12MM socket with an extension to remove these bolts. then lift the back of the seat and push it forward a little as there is a plastic tang that fits into a metal slot in the front.

 

Where is Cavan? We have several 1st gen owners in Ontario that would be more than glad to help you out.

 

Hope that helps...

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Guest Rev'n Ahead

Where is Cavan? We have several 1st gen owners in Ontario that would be more than glad to help you out.

 

After all the help I got on this thread (THANKS EVERYBODY) I have been able to free the front locks on the bags (WD40), bump the bags back, lift them out of there, and get the seat off with the 12mm extension.

 

YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!

 

So, now to get a new stator, or have mine rebuilt, as it has gone black on 4 or 5 of the coils.

 

QUESTION: I saw somewhere that the bolt in the center of the magnet for the stator should be drilled out (machine shop) to allow more oil in so the stator won't fry so fast... is this a GOOD SOLUTION or are their better ones? The bike only has 40K (25K miles) on it and it's already fried the stator??? Design flaw there somewhere, eh?

 

BTW: Cavan is just west of Peterborough, Ontario and just over an hour from the GTA (Greater Toronto Area).

 

LOVIN VR.ORG... thanks everyone!

 

:bighug:

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There was an optional oiler kit for the early MK1's, mainly the '83 and early '84 to fix the cooling problem. Later '84s were fixed for this. The stator uses oil sloshed onto it for cooling. Yes, you can enlarge the hole slightly for more volume, but not too much or you will loose pressure leading onto the stator. The hole size determines what kind of oriface effect you get which is going to determine what kind of pressure gets built up going thru it. The bigger the diameter the lower the pressure which means it won't squirt as far.

 

If your stator is shot I recommend springing the extra money on a high output stator. Just because it is discolored does not mean it is defective, just aged and yes exposed to some overheating...

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Hey Mark,

Happy New Year To You! Welcome to the VR.ORG forum, as you have found out, there are a bunch of great VR owners here, that are willing to help.

I offer an American Made, High OUTPUT Stator, and Regulator/Rectifier in the Classifieds, here is the link:

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3853&title=first-genhigh-output-stator-and-high-output-regulator-2frectifier-kit-21&cat=22

Both of these items I offer come with a FULL 1 Year Warranty, are built with the highest quality components, and when the High Output Stator is combined with the High Output R/R increase charging output by 25%.

I have BOTH of these units in stock for the First Gens. and also have the Second Gen. Units Available Locally. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. :thumbsup2:

Again, Welcome to the forum.

Earl

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