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Lowes sells Bosch brand 1/4" drive tips. These have little "teeth"(lines) for lack of a better word. That grip the screw. And when used on a virgin JIS screw...you tap it with a hammer". It GRIPs like someone glued it in there. ANd then you can use a 1/4 socket on a socket wrench. Remember to push hard onto the head when turning. Maybe w/all your possble weight. This has never failed me.

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A good fit on the screwdriver bit and an impact driver is the safest way to go with decent screw heads and they're not expensive - cheaper than a decent screwdriver set in fact. I have two or three and still have my first one, bought for about £4 from Argos of all places at least twenty five years ago. I've replaced the bits a few times, but the driver is showing no signs of wear.

 

Nevertheless, a couple of sharp taps with a hammer on the end of a suitable screwdriver will usually free off the locked-up threads and often allows the tips to wedge into a worn (or not quite the right denomination) screw head. The only screws I've had to drill out in the last 10-15 years have been exhaust studs that have sheared off.

 

If the crosshead slot is completely round, the hammer and chisel method is still a way of CAREFULLY notching the edge of the head and tapping it round. Some might recommending using a dremel or similar to cut a flathead slot and using a flathead bit in an impact driver, but if you don't have an impact screwdriver, you probably wouldn't have a dremel either...

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You ever have one of those days when you KNOW it's going to get pricey?

I got a junk master cyl to "practice drilling out & extracting the screws. Now mind you, the junk one's screws were stuck but looked better than mine.

It ain't pretty. What a PITA!

1st I tried to drill the screw a bit & use the extractor...no good won't budge.

so I drill off the head & remove the lid. No problem. I try to extract the screw with a vise grip. As Al Borlan would say..."I don't think so Tim"

Ok I drill though the screw cleanly and I try to use the extractor again, I mean really what's left of the screw. "SNAP" goes the Craftsman extractor. (sigh)

I redrill the hole & clean it out. It looks like I have to tap in the threads.

 

I can only imagine the nightmare I will have on the one which is on my bike.

This is the "Untouched" unit that I have to work on

 

 

I think it's going to be one of those "buy the entire part new" days!:headache:

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I think it's going to be one of those "buy the entire part new" days!:headache:

 

Experiences, both good & bad is what shapes our lives.

 

It's the wise ones that learn from the bad experiences as well as the good ones.

 

In other words, "Dang, I ain't trying that crap again" !!

 

Gary

Edited by dingy
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Once you drill off the heads and get the cover out of the way, drain all of the fluid out of the reservoir and wipe it dry. Then stuff it with a rag or paper towels to keep things out of where they should not be. Apply a drop of Kroil (my favorite) or other real good penetrating oil and let it soak for an hour. Give the end of the screw a few light raps with a small hammer to help the penetrating oil do its thing, along with another drop of Kroil and let it soak some more. THEN you can try the vice grips on the remains of the screw.

Edited by Flyinfool
FAT fingers
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I'll give it a shot. It's better to tread lightly & with caution.

If I can save this reservoir I'll have $300 more to put goodies into this bike.

 

Andy

 

You can pick up clean 1stGen VR masters off ebay for $25-$35 bucks. When I had to drill out the head on one of my reserve screws to get it out, I found stainless philips head metric screws at my local ACE Hardware for about $.40 cents ea.

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What I have found that has worked good for me is to take one of the Phillips head inserts and when using long nose Vise Grips to hold it, I will seat the insert into the screw and peck on it with a small hammer. After it is seated good, I will start turning the insert slightly and continue to peck on the top of the insert. I try to be careful to not rotate too much and let the insert climb out of the slots. I have had to do this several times on different bikes and have yet to have encountered a screw that did not come loose.

RandyA

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Today was a good day!

 

I received a few Items for the bike in the mail and I finally resolved my stuck reservoir screws issue thanks to many of the suggestions I received here. I sprayed them with deep creep & let them sit smacking them lightly with a hammer & philips screwdriver occasionally for a few days then I found the "Big Boy" the circa 1990 Bob Vila endorsed Craftman screw extractor. (you'd be amazed at how many tools you amass in 30 years of married life)

 

The screws had no chance. They walked right out!

I also want to thank Dingy for hooking me up with the stainless allen screws, they work like a charm, although the rear master cylinder was a PITA to get to & tighten.

 

BTW I wonder if anyone else has this problem...On the Venture, when you drop a screw or anything small by the engine, where does it go?

Are these bikes equipped with a black hole or is it just a void????

So far I lost an allen screw, a precision screwdriver, a screw extractor, & a piece of ABS tab from the right lower fairing...NEVER TO BE SEEN AGAIN!

 

I figure one day I'll hit a pothole & 7 million pieces of lost stuff will fall out! :confused24:

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For Really small items, check the spark plug hole before removing the plugs. This last summer I was replacing all 4 plugs and 1 plug I could not get the plug socket firmly over the plug. After several tries I finally took a mirror extension and was some how able to position it so I could see down the plug hole. There was a small electricial connection that I dropped during some electricial project, at the very bottom of the hole. It took some creative doing but I got it out. Glad I was unable to remove that plug for if I was able to, that connector could have fallen into the cylinder.

 

I'm going to make a habit of checking before removing any plugs now.

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