Marcarl Posted March 3, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 3, 2011 85 Royale Last year it seemed to me that my clutch would not engage until it was almost fully released. This is the opposite problem that most of us seem to experience. Mostly we have problems with being unable to get the clutch to release, due to a bad master, or air in the line or a soft line. But my problem is that I feel that sooner or later, the way it's going, my clutch will refuse to fully engage and start to slip. That being said, I cannot get it to slip when fully released. I had that problem a couple of years ago and so replaced the clutch, and cleaned and rebuilt the master and the slave. So I'm looking for thoughts on this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 3, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 3, 2011 Carl, it sounds like you are building pressure in the line to the slave but not enough to cause the brake to slip. When this happens the clutch will disengage very quickly and grab toward full extension on the lever. Another thought is the slave is not allowing the piston to fully retract and keeping the rods extended a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_in_london Posted March 3, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 3, 2011 You need to replace the bubbles in the fluid line. A couple of small ones will do, available at any auto suppliers, just make sure that they don't give you any square ones - these can only be used with synthetic fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 3, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 3, 2011 I seem to remember a thread detailing something like this last year. Not sure, but I thought it had something to do with the position of the ball bearing in the clutch push rod assembly. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 3, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 3, 2011 Did you by chance recently put in a clutch spring upgrade and replace the half plate with a full plate? Many that have done this mod have your exact symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted March 3, 2011 So if I got it correctly with the info I've been given so far, is that I may have the wrong size bubbles with too much spring pressure associated with the lever travel and the rod return, but it only happens on even years so I should be alright til next year. But if it's only supposed to be half there, I should get a plate that if fully there or I might only get partial response from the bearings in the ball. Have I got it about right so far? I'll go take a look to see if any of those little critters made into the basket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 3, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 3, 2011 Yous gots it poifetly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 3, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 3, 2011 Someone else already mentioned this, check that brass bushing on your lever, it could be worn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_in_london Posted March 4, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 4, 2011 Another thing that could have the same effect (seriously this time) is that little actuator rod between the brass bush in the clutch lever and the plunger can be put in the other way round, but that can damage the seal and lead to a leak, which should be a giveaway. That means that the point where it starts to pressurise the system is right out from the bar. It's easy enough to check (just a M6 pivot bolt) and costs nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted March 4, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 4, 2011 Did you by chance recently put in a clutch spring upgrade and replace the half plate with a full plate? Many that have done this mod have your exact symptoms. I did not have this problem or any problem with Gary's clutch mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted March 4, 2011 Thanks guys for all your input,,,, now to figure out why,,,, ok,, I'm on it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted March 5, 2011 Share #12 Posted March 5, 2011 (edited) Someone else already mentioned this, check that brass bushing on your lever, it could be worn... if the bushing is worn...you will not disengage the clutch. His problem sounds like the opposite. ALL masters have a bleed return hole. It's very very small. If it's plugged...it can cause the symptoms described. Removing the master and blowing it out w/compressed air and some cleaner...could do the trick. Also you may see the hole once you remove the filler cap.And a small 26 awg wire or smaller may clear it out. ... I JUST REMEMBERED. I had this same issue. 10 + years ago. The cause was the clutch hose had internally failed. But not leaked a bit. The pull was very stiff and it did not engage till the end. NOTE: the hose makes a very sharp bend at the steering neck . And that is the failure area. I actually could faintly hear the hose burp and shake as I pulled the lever. Because the hose had internally broken...the fluid was being blocked from flow. Because it was just before a trip. I ordered an original hose. Then 2 year later changed to SS hose and fittings. So I have a spare should someone need one. My SS hose I thnk is 63". But recommend a bit longer. 64 or 65. I suggest you measure if you upgrade to SS. You need a straight banjo at the slave and a 35 and the master. Edited March 5, 2011 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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