Steering Head Bearings Hint

[short-haul]

UP DATE I had a problem with the 3 RSV I tried this on see page 3 for details

 

 

 

apply a small amount of grease to the drill bit the shaving naturally come out as the bit goes in the grease will kept it from falling in.

 

wipe off and apply a small amount of grease to the tap again the filling will natural come out and stick to the grease also the tap will not go in all the way as these are pipe threads not machine threads.

 

If your really nerves also hold a magnet near the bit and tap

 

the hole is going in sideways.This method is used by technician all the time on spark plugs intakes etc. these holes are vertical and it works on them.

 

I will post Pictures this weekend

 

:soapbox:Just in cases you are wondering about my credentials

Associates degree in applied since Auto Technician

ASE certified Master Auto Technician

ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Technician

ASE certified Master School Bus Technician

ASE certified L1&L2 emission Technician

ASE certified Eng assembly Technician

10 year Cadillac technician last 2 Master Cadillac Technician (1 of 250 in USA)

15 years my own shop( customs and street rods and drag cars)

last 6 years fleet technician

As you can see I have been doing this for a long time and I am good at what I do

Not trying to sound arrogant or full of my self just the facts

 

I try to find ways to make jobs easier no mater what the naysayers say

 

Hope I do not offed any one now I will go to my corner

Edited January 30, 2010 by short-haul
fornd a problem

[jlh3rd]

what size drill bit and tap do you use...

[Ponch]

I was wondering about lubrication before I saw your post. My bike is a 1st gen - 88VR. Any reason why this would not be possible and work on a 1st gen? Where should the grease fitting be located for best results?

 

Donde in Rockport, Tx has a 1st Gen with a zerk on the steering head.

Edited January 27, 2010 by Ponch

[short-haul]

UP DATE I had a problem with the 3 RSV I tried this on see page 3 for details

 

 

 

I will post pictures and full instruction with tools and parts needed to do this job this weekend . One thing i am not is computer literate:smash2: and it will take me awhile to do it.

 

One of the other reasons to install a Zerk ( in my opinion) is you do not stand the chance of damaging the lower seal it can get cocked and smashed when reinstalling the forks .(You cant see it or feel it) and if you damaged this seal it will let water and dirt in the bearing and this will damage the bearing .

Edited January 30, 2010 by short-haul
found a problem

[Chiro]

Hey if you could post pics and some how to do tips, that would be great! That's a mod I think could be next on my list. Thank you!

[Freebird]

Here are some old pics I found that Rick Butler had sent me long ago. It is time consuming but not nearly as hard as it looks.

[BradT]

And you can't seem to find Pictures of a Green Bike on a Trailer ?

 

Brad

[Seaking]

Though this is referencing a Kawi Nomad, it shows what a Zerk fitting install is about..

 

to shed light onto what the experts are referring to..

 

http://www.gadgetjq.com/harpo_steeringlube.htm

 

sounds interesting.. however I'm not 'brave' enough to attempt the dis-assembly or installation of the zerks..

[Rick Butler]

Don,

 

I've found a more current picture of hanging the fairing and handlebars. I started using M/C tie downs which work very well. I use one set to suspend the fairing and another set to suspend the handlebars to keep them out of the way. You want the bike positioned such when you lift it up, it will also pull the fairing forward to get the enire assembly away from the forks.

 

I took these pictures when I lowered the front end of a friends RSV. My original intention was to do what Kent does often and work up a set of detailed instructions. Guess that I need to get back to this?

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

[short-haul]

UP DATE I had a problem with the 3 RSV I tried this on see page 3 for details

 

 

 

SEAKING :thumbsup2::thumbsup2::thumbsup2:

that's a very good article the only difference from how I do mine is I use

1/8 ZERT

drill bit size is #3( 7/32 will work in a pinch)( IRWIN Part#81103 available at ACE Hardware and Home Depot)

and 1/4 28 NF (IRWIN Part # 8123 available at ACE Hardware and Home Depot)

and I use Q-tips easier to find the pipe cleaner

just because it is what I have in stock and standard taps and drill bits are easier to find

 

Only thing I can add is if you have 30,000 miles or more or have run with the bearing out of adjustment for a long time go ahead and pull the steering down inspect the bearing and the ZERT then reassemble then the next time it will only take you 5 min to lube and you can ride the rest of the day which I think is what its all about.

Edited January 30, 2010 by short-haul
found a problem

[dragerman]

Apply a small amount of grease to the drill bit the shaving naturally come out as the bit goes in the grease will kept it from falling in.

 

wipe off and apply a small amount of grease to the tap again the filling will natural come out and stick to the grease also the tap will not go in all the way as these are pipe threads not machine threads.

 

If your really nerves also hold a magnet near the bit and tap

 

the hole is going in sideways.This method is used by technician all the time on spark plugs intakes etc. these holes are vertical and it works on them.

 

I will post Pictures this weekend

 

:soapbox:Just in cases you are wondering about my credentials

Associates degree in applied since Auto Technician

ASE certified Master Auto Technician

ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Technician

ASE certified Master School Bus Technician

ASE certified L1&L2 emission Technician

ASE certified Eng assembly Technician

10 year Cadillac technician last 2 Master Cadillac Technician (1 of 250 in USA)

15 years my own shop( customs and street rods and drag cars)

last 6 years fleet technician

As you can see I have been doing this for a long time and I am good at what I do

Not trying to sound arrogant or full of my self just the facts

 

I try to find ways to make jobs easier no mater what the naysayers say

 

Hope I do not offed any one now I will go to my corner

Now there's a neat trick! Thanks for your reply, I'll get started on it soon...

[Seaking]

SEAKING :thumbsup2::thumbsup2::thumbsup2:

that's a very good article the only difference from how I do mine is I use

1/8 ZERT

drill bit size is #3( 7/32 will work in a pinch)( IRWIN Part#81103 available at ACE Hardware and Home Depot)

and 1/4 28 NF (IRWIN Part # 8123 available at ACE Hardware and Home Depot)

and I use Q-tips easier to find the pipe cleaner

just because it is what I have in stock and standard taps and drill bits are easier to find

 

Only thing I can add is if you have 30,000 miles or more or have run with the bearing out of adjustment for a long time go ahead and pull the steering down inspect the bearing and the ZERT then reassemble then the next time it will only take you 5 min to lube and you can ride the rest of the day which I think is what its all about.

 

I have over 55,000 miles on my 06 Venture and last year I had the poor man's 'tightening' done which took care of the loose neck bearings.. I currently have the bike up on the jack and did another bounce check and all seems very fine.. nothing catching, no flat spots and the bounce test is spot on.. However I know this is but a cheap fix and the neck needs proper attention.. being a chicken with such deep maintenance I'll be waiting till I can hook up with someone who can work with me to get it done..

 

In may I will be on a month long road trip and hoping to hook up with some of the experts who can walk me through some of the finer points of Venture maintenance so I can take that experience and knowledge back home to help my buddies out..

 

33,500 miles on the bike last year alone, the wear and tear is going to take it's toll on this bike..

[1joeranger]

I have about 10K miles before I have to change out my front tire which is when I will do this front fork thing! At that time I expect someone here to have "DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS W/ PICTURES"! So get to it!! LOL I would provide the pictures and writeup myself but I can barely recognize a front fork 1 out of 3 times!

 

Thanks to all of you who take the time to educate us less knowledgeable, wanta be, motorcycle mechanics!!

[hillrider]

Sounded like a good idea. Bought zerk fitting NEW bits and grease. Greased the bits and drilled the hole. Easy. Taped the Hole. Easy Threaded fitting in. easy. So far have pump one and a golf tube of grease into the head. Arms TIRED. Will try more tommorrow. Either the inside of the head is bigger than it looks, or the inside of the down tubes will NEVER rust.

[short-haul]

should take 8-10 OZ sure your in the head I use air operated grease gun much easyer

[hillrider]

After eating Wheaties this morning, I pumped in the last of the tube of grease (2 14oz tubes) and could see no sign of grease coming out anywhere. Removed the tank and the plastic side pieces beside the switch and with mirror on a stick saw maybe a teaspoon of seepage inside the frame housing behind the tree. I quit now. Pics attached.

[jlh3rd]

ok......

i want to do this...but why did hillside take 2 tubes and still not full....any explanation shorthaul ?

[Squidley]

ok......

i want to do this...but why did hillside take 2 tubes and still not full....any explanation shorthaul ?

 

 

Could be that he has the smaller grease gun and tube, it will take a decent amount of grease to get the entire tube filled to the point of purging

[hillrider]

What I'm afraid of is that Yamaha when assembling the frame, blew a hole between the head and one of the down tubes. Allowing grease into the tube. Can't think of any way of checking it though.

[short-haul]

UP DATE

I done this on an 03 and my 04 I have now tried on another 03 and ran it to a problem there it a small hole where the down tubes meets the head looks like it was a jig hole that did not get sealed when it was welded at the factury and should have been as under extreme cond it could possibly let moisture in the head.

 

I you try this and it takes more then 14oz you may have the same problem.So at this point in time I can no longer recommend this on RSV

 

I will pull this bike down and see if its a jig hole or a burn through from welding ,repair it and then grease it through the zert

[short-haul]

UPDATE Continued

 

Hillrider said

 

"What I'm afraid of is that Yamaha when assembling the frame, blew a hole between the head and one of the down tubes. Allowing grease into the tube. Can't think of any way of checking it though".

 

 

Hillrider the only way would be to pull the forks and look in the tube from the inside ( or pull the motor and look up)

I just had my first failure with a zirt install also (first in parable 60 different type of bikes I have done). I plan to pull the assembly apart and weld up the hole from the inside a bit of a hassle but it has to come apart anyway since the zert did not work I do not know if its a blow through from welding of a jig hole that did not got sealed .this bike has 8900 miles on it so may Wait till fall

 

I still feel this is an alternative to pulling the bearing every 16000 miles But on the RSV I guse I will start to pull them all down and inspect the tube and bearing Weld up any problems then Drill, tap and install a zert so it does not have to be done again

 

sorry if any one else has had this problem

Edited January 30, 2010 by short-haul
up date

[Seaking]

UPDATE Continued

 

Hillrider said

 

"What I'm afraid of is that Yamaha when assembling the frame, blew a hole between the head and one of the down tubes. Allowing grease into the tube. Can't think of any way of checking it though".

 

 

Hillrider the only way would be to pull the forks and look in the tube from the inside ( or pull the motor and look up)

I just had my first failure with a zirt install also (first in parable 60 different type of bikes I have done). I plan to pull the assembly apart and weld up the hole from the inside a bit of a hassle but it has to come apart anyway since the zert did not work I do not know if its a blow through from welding of a jig hole that did not got sealed .this bike has 8900 miles on it so may Wait till fall

 

I still feel this is an alternative to pulling the bearing every 16000 miles But on the RSV I guse I will start to pull them all down and inspect the tube and bearing Weld up any problems then Drill, tap and install a zert so it does not have to be done again

 

sorry if any one else has had this problem

 

It would explain where the 23 gallons of grease disappeared to...

 

dang..

[short-haul]

I have posted what I found in a thread called "grease Zerk" an a cople of pitures I would like for you to let me know when you pack your bearing if yours has this hole. And if it does is it pluged or open.

Thanks

Short-haul