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I found a while back, while attending a motorcycle maintenance course, that the valve tappet tool (for shim over setup) designed for suzuki also works on Yamaha. Here is an example of the tool we used...and I think it works better than the little thing Yamaha sells.

 

As for actual shims. The shim in the bike usually is stamped with the size (or use a caliper to measure the thickness). Using feeler gauges, one can determine how much thicker/thinner they need to go. Any motorcycle shop should carry the shims for a reasonable price, and if you did your math right, should have a perfect fit with little to none of the "musical shims" game.

 

I'm pretty sure these valve tools will work, as they specify which ones will not fit the XVZ 1200/1300 (usually the bolt-on kind).

 

If the link doesn't work, here's the address: http://www.maxmx.co.uk/productdetail.html?ID=3613

 

Other examples:

http://www.sudco.com/motionpro.html#valve

http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/brockracing/-strse-2165/VALVE-TOOL-2/Detail

http://pitposse.com/povashto.html

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If that part does work it is available for US$14.81 at Amazon.com here:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTVOC8/ref=asc_df_B000GTVOC8956097/?tag=globa0a-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B000GTVOC8&linkCode=asn]Amazon.com: MOTION PRO SUZ VALVE SHIM TOOL - 08-0017: Automotive[/ame]

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I don't believe it. But I've been wrong before.

 

If you go to the Yamaha special tools list there are a dozen different valve tools, all slightly different, for different models, including this one, and the one for our engines.

 

There is no such thing as one Yamaha valve tool that fits all Yamahas. There are too many variables between engines.

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Now that is interesting, I googled the part number and the JC Whitney link did not come up, at least in the first 6 pages. Would have thought they would rank higher than that.

 

 

I found it with a google of "Yamaha valve tool".

 

First page.

 

Also shows this one to. $14.99 Whitney different p/n.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=1101021059&statenval=1101021059&productId=2004275&skuId=146537&shopid=100001&pageid=13&TID=8014524F&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=product-62489&zmam=73771597&zmas=21&zmac=122&zmap=62489

 

Gary

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I know the Yamaha valve tools say they are for different bikes. When we worked on a Yamaha in my motorcycle maint. course (usually an XJ), we used the Suzuki tool because the bolt-on valve tool was more effort than needed. We noticed there were slight differences in the side groove, but caused no problems. The only thing the tool does is lower the shim bucket from the cam lobe just enough to either get a feeler gauge in or remove the shim. They should all work decently. The only thing I think that could be a factor was clearance from the handle end (easily fixed by cutting/griding off the handle).

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yes, thats one of the new type like I have. Per MiCarl the retail price on these was just raised, so $30+$5ship is a good price. Somebody should grab it.

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  • 1 year later...

Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.:detective:

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Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.:detective:

 

 

Dangerous, No ...Ludicrous, Yes

 

You would be trying to get the zip tie head in the valve opening while totally blind to position, dropping down through plug hole about 2", then rotating zip tie to where it was perfectly aligned, then rotate crank to capture zip tie while holding zip tie in place that you can't see..

 

I think your buddy has been smokin something a lot stronger than marlboro's.

 

Anything is possible though. A monkey with a machine gun while eventually spell out the constitution given enough ammo.

 

Let us know how this works out for you. BTW the tool is only $65 from Thunder Valley, see it in the classifieds.

 

Gary

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Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.:detective:

 

Now thats thinking outside the box if I ever heard of it. If its true hats off to him. Is his nickname McGiver, if not it is now.:rotfl::D

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Just got a tip from a buddy who did his without the use of the shim tool.

Tell me this is dangerous.

He measured everything like the book said and the ones he couldnt gte th feeler in he rotated the engine until the valve had full deflectiono. He drove a thick nylon ziptie through the plug hole and stuck it under the vale after rotating the engine a bit more the valve was still in the open position.

Though it wasnt easy he claims it did work.

im skeptical.:detective:

 

As Dingy said, it's be darn tough to do on a Venture engine. It's often used on the 2 valve inline fours where you can actually see all the valves through the spark plug hole, which is also usually easier to get your fingers to than a Venture.

 

One problem people have is with the valve cutting the zip tie and you end up with a piece of it in the cylinder. What seems to work better is a piece of 12GA insulated wire, it holds its shape and doesn't get cut. It does need to be trimmed after a few valves because the insulation gets chewed up.

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  • 10 months later...

Well I have had the ocasion to change a valve spring or two on a small block chevy simularly. I think we used some nylon string, sort of like clothes line. Fed some in the cyl, rotated the engine over till it felt sort of snug and had a very crude compression device we made from a car trunk hinge. But it worked. I would not say either is the recomended way.

So whats the deal will the JC whitney too listed (suzuki) work or not? I'm pretty sure the one for my Fj1200 wont.

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