Squeeze Posted September 12, 2009 Share #126 Posted September 12, 2009 You have to understand all that I say....I have seen. We have people who have the brown wire connected to the battery at all times in regards to my other old Yamaha Vision. Doing this helps regulate the voltage slightly better. BUT They end up with a dead battery if it is already weak and not riddin much. I did the brown wire direct thing on my other Yamaha. And measured the current being sucked thru the brown wire alone was over .10A(100 milliamps)... which is not a lot. Which is a bit more than nothing and yet enough to kill your battery in 2 weeks. I use a relay for that brown wire to be a direct connect to the battery on my '83 Vision that only is active when the ignition is on. Also noticed a draw on the positive wire if the brown is connected direct. The exact amount I do not remember. MAybe it was the same 100 milliamps. Some memory details are fuzzy but there. Seriously disconnect the battery positive and put the ampmeter correctly connected(polarity) and see if there is a draw when off. You know how to do that...right? I would hope it will be as I stated in the previous post. Jason, you may be right in making us aware about Things you found in the Past, but it's an Issue here. This Shindengen R/R is mounted in a LOT of newer Yamaha's and Honda's and they are all wired the same, like the SaltyDod stated in the other Thread, and as the Spec Sheet says. I confirmed this on '09 Max and on the '06-recent FJR1300. No Sense Wire and connected through the Main Fuse to the Battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted September 12, 2009 Share #127 Posted September 12, 2009 I understand there is no sense wire needed here. I think I was not clear enouogh. WHAT I AM SAYING is. Maybe there is a master relay or connection that is completed when you turn the "NEW" bike on. Thus completing the connection...battery to R/R in the newer bikes. ANd may have just such a set up to prevent power draw when the bike is off.... that's all I mean. You think they are all wired the same. But maybe not like our old Ventures. Any one game for checking? or know how to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted September 12, 2009 Share #128 Posted September 12, 2009 Oh, go ahead now, you gonna pull the WIFE card on me now? Honestly Ben, I never thought you would stoop so low (LOL). I guess we'll just have to throw yours and mine in the cage out back and see who wins! In the meantime we'll have Charlie or Hal bring some "Apple Pie" down and have a few (might even throw Gayle in there for funsies!)! Now thats the kind of thinking I could go along with:dancefool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted September 12, 2009 Share #129 Posted September 12, 2009 When i say checked, i mean checked !! What Kind of Wiring Diagram would you like to have ? FJR ? German or English ? '06 YZF-R1 English or German ? '09 Vmax - US - German - UK - French - Spanish - Italian ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted September 14, 2009 Share #130 Posted September 14, 2009 so , assuming you know how to read schematics(like me). You are saying> "There are no switches(ignition) or relays that complete the connection of the R/R to the battery." And it's always connected. Realize ,I got 2 of these> and I just want all my "ducks in a row". So I can procede smoooothly. In the past I have found many odd electrical oddities that are not odd after you analize them. Also I did read in one magazne where they tested a bike with this R/R. Don't remember which model.They stated it was as you folks describe. It ramps up and down smoothly with voltage changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony1M Posted September 17, 2009 Share #131 Posted September 17, 2009 Dan, Thanks! http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/Tony1M/regulator.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted September 17, 2009 Share #132 Posted September 17, 2009 I got mine today looks great! thank you so much for your time and effort! Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share #133 Posted September 18, 2009 You guys are welcome. Glad it's over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandbagger Posted September 19, 2009 Share #134 Posted September 19, 2009 I signed up for the buy but unfortunately was clueless how to switch thru the pages. Learned that lesson. Wasn't sure if someone might have an extra one they wanted to sell or know where I could find one. Appreciate the help. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share #135 Posted September 19, 2009 Contact Marcarl, he bought a couple extra ones just for this moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted October 7, 2009 Share #136 Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) Because people are having trouble finding a good write up and pictures on how to do this here's a blatent Robbery of the image and text from the other site that has this info... You can use the stock wiring and mount it where the old one is. you do not have to upgrade your wires, just simply tape off the brown one and not use it but protect it from getting shorted out. You can add a fuse as some others have, or leave it un-fused like Yamaha did with your stock regulator. I suggest a fuse, it's cheap insurance. Here is the data sheet on it : http://www.shindengen.com/resources/content/1/1/1/1/documents/FH012%20Data.pdf Connections from the top as you hold the regulator plugs facing you and with the gray connector on top. Grey connector -input. Stator wires x3, order does not matter. Black connector -output. Positive connection wired directly at battery or main fuse. Mid male pin not connected. Last is ground (-). The second picture is from a honda site that people are using the same one, this shows it used without the weatherproof connectors but regular old space connectors that actually do fit. Also you can get a regulator like this off of a crashed FJR. same pinout but a much larger heatsink that makes it harder to mount. Edited October 7, 2009 by Freebird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted October 7, 2009 Share #137 Posted October 7, 2009 I changed it from a linked image to an attached image. Not sure where it was hot linked from but some sites don't like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrich12000 Posted March 17, 2010 Share #138 Posted March 17, 2010 Dano put me onto this thread. Are there any more to be had? I need on as my 83 Ventue is not charging:crying:, I know it's the reg as it kicks in and out, So if you are still selling I'm buying!! Mike R. Calgary . Hi to Paul R.. Up the troops bud.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrich12000 Posted March 20, 2010 Share #139 Posted March 20, 2010 Got it thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted March 29, 2011 Share #140 Posted March 29, 2011 Here is the data sheet on it : http://www.shindengen.com/resources/content/1/1/1/1/documents/FH012%20Data.pdf Connections from the top as you hold the regulator plugs facing you and with the gray connector on top. Grey connector -input. Stator wires x3, order does not matter. Black connector -output. Positive connection wired directly at battery or main fuse. Mid male pin not connected. Last is ground (-). The R/R on my xv1100 quit working properly a few weeks ago. It was putting out 11.5 v which kept the battery somewhat charged and with the help of a charger it was able to manage my daily commute. On Sunday last the stock R/R gave up the ghost and blew the main fuse. Today I looked into installing the Shindegen mentioned here. The only place with any airflow it possibly could be mounted is under the seat but that position may not be very weather tight. The only other place available is in the left pod that used to contain the AIS. That position is reasonably weather tight but there is not much if any airflow. Anyone got any thoughts on this little conundrum? What's more important, airflow or weatherproof? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 29, 2011 Share #141 Posted March 29, 2011 (edited) I'd concern mysef more with weatherproof. These are NOT a shunt type R/R so there is little heat to be concerned with. No real airflow required for cooling, unlike the OEM that needed to be "In The Wind" LOL! Mine is going in by the weekend and it will be under the seat. I'm bypassing the old harness with a new set of wires and a 30 amp fuse on the hot lead with heavier gauge wires. A few shots of the aftermarket R/R I installed after my OEM gave up the ghost. Needed a lot more "In The Wind" don't ya think. My bad....mounted too close to the Mac Pipes. Lesson learned. Mike Edited March 29, 2011 by Snaggletooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keemez Posted March 29, 2011 Share #142 Posted March 29, 2011 I moved mine (93 VR, keep in mind) to the underside of the false cover, above the airbox. I also cut 3 holes (appx 1 and 5/8"?) in the front of the false cover to introduce some relatively cool airflow past the regulator and near the airbox inlet. It may not be weatherproof but I doubt any serious water will get up in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted March 29, 2011 Share #143 Posted March 29, 2011 Mounting in the pod will be much easier on the Virago than under the seat which is already full of relays and connectors. Could still be in a bit of a pickle though as the left pod is where I planned to mount the ballast for the HID headlight. Have to do a temp mount of both units before I'll know for sure. @ Snaggletooth: What wire gauge were you thinking of using? The stock is probably #14 off a 30 amp fuse although it might be #12 with thinner insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 29, 2011 Share #144 Posted March 29, 2011 I'm going for 18ga., if the plugs for the R/R allow it. I look at it this way......upgrade stator.....upgrade R/R.......upgrade wire, and not to mention upgrade fuse. Here is my install kit and the way it will be wired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted March 30, 2011 Share #145 Posted March 30, 2011 Seems to me #18 wire is a bit on the skinny side for a 30 amp circuit. I'm glad you mentioned it though since I didn't even think about the size of wire having to fit through the plugs. I already updated the fuse from the glass tube to an ATO type. Both the main fuse and the spare's glass tubes broke while I was trying to get the holder apart to check what was causing the lack of ignition. They were both probably 1996 vintage and pretty much just fell apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 30, 2011 Share #146 Posted March 30, 2011 Good catch Camos, and you're right. 18 ga would be too light. It was almost 2:00 am when I posted that and it should have been 12 ga. As far as the main fuse, I changed mine over the the same type of fuse and holder as shown in the pic. I run a 30 amp max there also. And a lot easier to change the fuse if needed. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share #147 Posted March 30, 2011 should have been 12 ga. Mike I was starting to wonder about ya there Snags..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 30, 2011 Share #148 Posted March 30, 2011 I was starting to wonder about ya there Snags..... I wonder about me almost every day Dano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted April 17, 2011 Share #149 Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) Despite Tim's good explanation and pic that displayss everything very well... I managed to reverse the pos and neg wires going into the connector. The problem is I can't get the pins out of the connector to change them over. Anyone know how to do this? Because people are having trouble finding a good write up and pictures on how to do this here's a blatent Robbery of the image and text from the other site that has this info... You can use the stock wiring and mount it where the old one is. you do not have to upgrade your wires, just simply tape off the brown one and not use it but protect it from getting shorted out. You can add a fuse as some others have, or leave it un-fused like Yamaha did with your stock regulator. I suggest a fuse, it's cheap insurance. Here is the data sheet on it : http://www.shindengen.com/resources/content/1/1/1/1/documents/FH012%20Data.pdf Connections from the top as you hold the regulator plugs facing you and with the gray connector on top. Grey connector -input. Stator wires x3, order does not matter. Black connector -output. Positive connection wired directly at battery or main fuse. Mid male pin not connected. Last is ground (-). The second picture is from a honda site that people are using the same one, this shows it used without the weatherproof connectors but regular old space connectors that actually do fit. Also you can get a regulator like this off of a crashed FJR. same pinout but a much larger heatsink that makes it harder to mount. Edited April 17, 2011 by camos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted April 18, 2011 Share #150 Posted April 18, 2011 If you look at the inside of the plug you will see a yellow band around the center section that houses the pins. If you take a pick you can slide that out and away from the center section. It appears that the yellow band is a sort of locking device along with the internal spring clips to help retain the pins in place. Once that is removed the pins can be pulled back out rather easily. Worked for me anyway. Remember to put it back in when you got it right. LOL! When I did mine I did not crimp the clamps on the pins tight enough over the wire and them over soldered them. I could not get the pins to go in far enough to seat properly to lock in. They would pull right back out. Once I removed the solder and recrimped and resoldered them they snapped right into place and locked in. Had mine in and out a few times. This Shindengen unit is one of the best mods I have done to the bikes electrcial system. An absolutley rock solid charge all the time. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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