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Is my Clutch dying?


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Hmm twice now, 1st time it happened almost cost me an accident involvement and tonight it happened again but just a puzzlement. The first time I wasn't sure what had happened but twice? Hmm here's what is happening, hopefully someone could lead me in the right direction for help..

 

1st time it happened, I was cruising along at 60 to 70 mph in 5th, and went to pass a car (2 lanes same direction) but out in behind of me a sports car traveling super fast came up on me very fast.. wow, caught ME by surprise! So I dropped the hammer in 5th gear and there was a very noticeable lack of acceleration and a higher rev of the engine and eventually, things started to speed up.. This wasn't the typical too high a gear for the need, it was different.

 

2nd time this happened, I was cruising along at 55-65 mph in 5th.. just needed to scoot around a slow moving vehicle so I dropped it in 4th and dropped the hammer... and the same thing happened.. wow..

 

I've never felt this with any of the bikes I've owned and I'm thinking that perhaps my clutch is dying (why not, everything else on this bike has eventually died and been replaced lol).. I climbed Mount Washington no probs, and the bike slows down properly with engine de-acceleration.. I cannot duplicate this symptom in low gear.. like dropping the hammer in first gear doesn't give me the same symptoms but it's not as spirited as when I discovered my rev limiter a while back..

 

So, what do you think is wrong here, and what are my options to get this working properly again? No warranty on the bike here in Canada but there is when I visit the USA.

 

Thanks in advance!

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Yep, And at 55 to 65 you outta be in 2nd going to 3rd. Its a waste of time to try to accelerate using 5th at that slow of a speed. Take 3rd to 85 corrected speed or 90 on the stock speedo if you want the bike to perform.

 

Thanks buddy, riding at those revs and speeds is great for 'hair on fire riding' however for the casual cruising it's a little asking for too much to run at 65 in 2nd gear for hours.. ?!

 

Cheers

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Clutch slipping, common, PCW racing, get the upgrade kit and never worry about it again. John Gayne is the owner and it's in Schenectady NY less than $100 and I believe he will ship to Canada

:happy34:

 

Thanks M8.. I'll check it out.

 

Cheers!

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Thanks buddy, riding at those revs and speeds is great for 'hair on fire riding' however for the casual cruising it's a little asking for too much to run at 65 in 2nd gear for hours.. ?!

 

Cheers

 

Old KY habits die hard, When you finally get a chance to pass cause the road is straight enough you do it REAL FAST and brake before you hit the next curve.:shock3::rotf:

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I think it was your rear tire spinning because it lost traction from all of that awesome 2nd Gen power.

 

At least that's what you tell any 1st Gen or H-D riders traveling with you.

 

hehe all that 'awesome' 2nd gen power is there but ya know, the roads are slippery with all the HD oil.. ;) Just kidding.. HD's don't leak oil anymore.. do they?

 

I'll contact PCW Racing and order the clutch spring upgrade.. I read the tech library article on how to change a clutch stuff.. I wouldn't call it 'confusing' but never having seen a clutch taken apart on a bike before, I'm hesitant of doing it myself.. may leave it to a shop.. Its one of them things, ya know? I'm more afraid of pooching it and doing more damage and then costing me more down time and money..

 

However, if I learn to do this one myself, then I'll be able to help my buddies do theirs as I know some of them might be slipping as well..

 

Cheers!

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Changing out a clutch is really easy. You don't even need to drain the oil. Set the bike on the side stand and go at it. You may get a couple of drips, but that will be all.

 

I would recommend picking up a set of mechanics picks from a hardware store (under $10 usually) to make it easier to remove and inspect the plates. Make sure to get a new clutch cover gasket before you start (unless it is included with the PWC kit - don't know).

 

RR

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Changing out a clutch is really easy. You don't even need to drain the oil. Set the bike on the side stand and go at it. You may get a couple of drips, but that will be all.

 

I would recommend picking up a set of mechanics picks from a hardware store (under $10 usually) to make it easier to remove and inspect the plates. Make sure to get a new clutch cover gasket before you start (unless it is included with the PWC kit - don't know).

 

RR

 

Thanks M8.. I'll be contacting them for a kit (and gasket) real soon..

 

Cheers

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Before changing the clutch I would look at whether or not you have any play in the clutch lever. I had the same thing happen to me several times and then a couple weeks later the cruise control wouldn't stay engaged. I noticed play in the clutch lever and well just look at this thread and it will explain. Not saying this is your problem but it solved both of mine.

 

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38349]Cruise Control Not Staying Engaged - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

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Before changing the clutch I would look at whether or not you have any play in the clutch lever. I had the same thing happen to me several times and then a couple weeks later the cruise control wouldn't stay engaged. I noticed play in the clutch lever and well just look at this thread and it will explain. Not saying this is your problem but it solved both of mine.

 

Cruise Control Not Staying Engaged - VentureRider.Org

 

Ahh but it 'could' be as my CC did disengage a coupla times on this trip.. I'll have a boo at the link and see if this might be the case..

 

many thanks M8

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Rather than mess with the thin factory gasket I made my own slightly thicker gasket. I picked up a sheet of rubber impregnated auto gasket material and made my own for only 4 bucks. I have used the leftover material to make several other gaskets. Considering the factory gasket costs about 15 bucks I saved big when you factor in the three other gasket costs. And I know there are some who may disagree but use a good pliable gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket material. I forgot the brand that I used but it was blue. A true mating surface shouldnt have any leaks but all it takes is a tiny imperfection and it will leak. Better safe then sorry....

 

One more thing. It calls for the removal of the exhaust pipe on the right side. I left mine in place and cut down a allen key head to fit in the bolt while clearing the pipe.

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Before changing the clutch I would look at whether or not you have any play in the clutch lever. I had the same thing happen to me several times and then a couple weeks later the cruise control wouldn't stay engaged. I noticed play in the clutch lever and well just look at this thread and it will explain. Not saying this is your problem but it solved both of mine.

Cruise Control Not Staying Engaged - VentureRider.Org

 

I don't think it's this one.. I took the bike out again tonight, and pushed the clutch lever forward as I accelerated and still the same thing.. time for clutch upgrades..

 

Thanks!

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I think my spring is OK - no evident slipping but its time for me to do some long-needed maintenance and hopefully prevent future issues. I was just going to bleed the system and replace fluid but thought it might be time to change the hydraulic line as well (bike is a 2002 and has original lines) so I bought the braided stainless line; was told that the upgrade is worthwhile. (doing the same for the front brakes as well.) Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinders (brake and clutch) every 2 years - does anyone do this?

 

Ross

 

Sorry; didn't mean to hijack!

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I think my spring is OK - no evident slipping but its time for me to do some long-needed maintenance and hopefully prevent future issues. I was just going to bleed the system and replace fluid but thought it might be time to change the hydraulic line as well (bike is a 2002 and has original lines) so I bought the braided stainless line; was told that the upgrade is worthwhile. (doing the same for the front brakes as well.) Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinders (brake and clutch) every 2 years - does anyone do this?

 

Ross

 

Sorry; didn't mean to hijack!

 

By all means hijack away lol.. The RSV is the first bike I had with hydraulic clutch and it never occurred to me what colour the fluid should be (I didn't actually realize it's brake fluid..) So when I asked if "black" was a good colour, I was soon in the shop getting it flushed.. But though it improved things a lot I think it might have been too little too late and now I'm having what appears to be clutch problems.. slipping a lot now.. I basically can't hammer it down with any confidence and as long as I ride like a little old lady on a sunday ride, I should be OK until I can get the upgrade kit installed.

 

Replace the brake fluid, get it flushed on a regular basis..

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