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rear tire change procedure


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I'm entering my first rear tire change on my Venture. In talking to the local motorcycle tire shop guy, he's telling me that Yamaha's are a real pain, a lot to remove etc, etc. Is it really that difficult or is his GoldWing mentality getting in the way ??

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Sounds like he is trying to make a sale.... its not that bad, drop the mufflers, remove the bags, jack it up and remove the brake callaper and axle.. work the tire/wheel out and thats it, you should grees the splines while you have it out... try it, if you have any problems, your Family waits here to help you out...

 

Kreg

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Sounds like he is trying to make a sale.... its not that bad, drop the mufflers, remove the bags, jack it up and remove the brake callaper and axle.. work the tire/wheel out and thats it, you should grees the splines while you have it out... try it, if you have any problems, your Family waits here to help you out...Kreg

 

He's a retired 'mechanic' and has set up a small tire change/repair shop. Nice guy buy seems to read more into things than necessary. He was talking about pulling the drive shaft to get it out of the way etc. Also didn't see any need to use Honda moly 60 when there are a lot of greases that are of the same basic compound.

 

Just a stressful situation when you haven't done something before and an 'expert' has opinions that don't match up with the guys that ride/repair Ventures. Did I mention that he's a devout GoldWing rider ?

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I own both a Wing (94 GL1500) and a 99RSV. Don't ever let anyone tell you that it's easier to get the rear wheel off of a Wing....unless maybe they are talking about an 1800. Haven't done one of those. But I can remove the rear wheel on my RSV in half the time it takes for the Wing.

 

Joe

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OOPs...sorry...I think I saw in another post where you were going to the dark side but I had forgotten. I don't think bringing it to my house would help. I would have no problem taking the wheel off for you but I don't know anybody around here who would mount the CT for you. From what I've read about the pressure that some guys are having to use to get it to seat, I just don't want to do it. Sorry.

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Adventure 1943

 

I did mine for the first time a couple of weeks ago and it was a piece of cake. You need to have something to adapt your MC jack for the Venture. Other than that, it takes ~10 minutes to remove the bags and less than that to remove the right hand exhaust. Brake caliper, axle nut, pinch bolt, axle, caliper bracket. Wiggle the wheel off the splines and raise the bike enough to pull it out from the right. There are some variations possible but this is what I did. Took awhile the first time but I think I could remove and re-install the rear wheel in a half hour or so the next time. Lots of reading to do and lots of good information on this site. Make sure you grease splines and clean/lube the drive pins when it is apart (need snap-ring pliers to take the hub apart).

 

A little more complicated if you remove the drive shaft and service that but not a big problem; just a little fussy getting it back together.

 

I was quite apprehensive when I first tackled it but with the documentation on this forum, I didn't have any major difficulties. It would have helped my confidence to have someone to talk me through it but in the end, I didn't have any trouble. (Take Freebird's offer for help, if you can but if its not possible, just go for it!)

 

Good Luck!

 

Ross

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Nice guy buy seems to read more into things than necessary. He was talking about pulling the drive shaft to get it out of the way etc.

 

QUOTE]

 

Adventure, you don't have to pull the drive shaft to remove the tire. When you pull the axle bolt, there will be a spacer that comes out with the caliper holder. This will allow you to slide the wheel to the right and release it from the 3rd member (differental). It's a snap. So easy even a Wing owner can do it. :whistling: :stirthepot: :stirthepot: :stirthepot:

 

There are a lot of good directions in the Tech section as well. :thumbsup:

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Geeeeeeeezzz - after talking to the mechanic I thought I was in for a total rear end disassembly. Like I said earlier, he reads a lot into things that evidently don't have a bearing on getting the job done.

 

He probably read the Yammy Service Manual.....they have you basically disassembling everything past the swingarm to get the rear wheel off. Just ridiculous, and not necessary. Follow the instructions here and it's a piece of cake.

 

Joe

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He probably read the Yammy Service Manual.....they have you basically disassembling everything past the swingarm to get the rear wheel off. Just ridiculous, and not necessary. Follow the instructions here and it's a piece of cake.

 

Joe

Thanks Guys - I didn't mean to bad mouth the guy, he's really a nice guy, known him for a long time - perhaps you're right about reading the manual 'cause that sounds like what he wanted to do. Perhaps with me standing there we can get it done right and easy.

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I'm with the responses you've recieved from the others. I will tell you the first time I took mine off, I literally had to drive the axle out, it was dry with NO lube on it. Since then its taken an hour from breakdown to riding. No problem. Plus, you get the benefit of knowing you did it yourself and it was done correctly!

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I'm with the responses you've recieved from the others. I will tell you the first time I took mine off, I literally had to drive the axle out, it was dry with NO lube on it. Since then its taken an hour from breakdown to riding. No problem. Plus, you get the benefit of knowing you did it yourself and it was done correctly!

 

Me too....axle was a bear to get out. Even had grease on it, and I know it had been out before since it is a 99 and has had multiple rear tire changes. I put Honda Moly 60 on it this time, we'll see if that helps.

 

Joe

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Me too....axle was a bear to get out. Even had grease on it, and I know it had been out before since it is a 99 and has had multiple rear tire changes. I put Honda Moly 60 on it this time, we'll see if that helps.

 

Joe

 

there was an article about the axle being 'hard' to get out. I printed it out but don't remember where to find it on the site. The article said something about loosening a couple bolts after you re-insert the axle w/o the rim on it.

 

I'll see if I can find it

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OOPs...sorry...I think I saw in another post where you were going to the dark side but I had forgotten. I don't think bringing it to my house would help. I would have no problem taking the wheel off for you but I don't know anybody around here who would mount the CT for you. From what I've read about the pressure that some guys are having to use to get it to seat, I just don't want to do it. Sorry.
This may be a question for the "Dark Siders" but I have a friend who put a CT on his RSV with only 76psi to get it to seat. He said that he used a wire brus to get the sticky stuff off the bead and then used tire lube. He said it seated with 76psi. That doesn't sound bad at all compared to the 100psi+ stories I've heard. Has anyone else got a similar story? Just curious.
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there was an article about the axle being 'hard' to get out. I printed it out but don't remember where to find it on the site. The article said something about loosening a couple bolts after you re-insert the axle w/o the rim on it.

 

I'll see if I can find it

 

You may be referring to this article on rear end alignment: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705]Rear End Noise - Yamaha TSB - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

 

Joe

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One thing that I have learned is to slip the axle through the wheel before I push the wheel back into engagement with the hub. Makes it easier to get engaged. Then I pull the axle back out and put the spacer in.

 

I agree. Much easier to engage the splines.

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Just mounted my c/t yesterday. seated at about 65 psi. I cleaned all the sticky stuff off the rim and cleaned it with the mesh strip I use for cleaning copper pipe before soldering. Use a generous amount of tire lube. First side popped up about 60 psi. Let the air out, relubed the other side where is was still not seated. Pumped it up to 65 psi. Still would not go. I took a standard 16 oz hammer and rapped the tire in the middle of the sidewall where it had not seated. About 5 or 6 raps and it popped up. I guess the vibrations enough to get it to "break friction".

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I hate to beat this thread to death but something just came to mind that the 'mechanic' said with regard to tire lube.

 

He said he uses a lube that is really 'sticky' and is not water soluble. I'm now thinking that a 'sticky' lube will deter the beads from seating and may cause an unfortunate incident.

 

Perhaps another lube that is meant to be SLIPPERY would work better, especially on ct's

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One thing that I have learned is to slip the axle through the wheel before I push the wheel back into engagement with the hub. Makes it easier to get engaged. Then I pull the axle back out and put the spacer in.

 

Now why didn't I think of that:bang head:

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