YamaDuck Posted May 22, 2009 Share #1 Posted May 22, 2009 Ok it is time for an oil change. This will be the first one since I bought my 2000MM RSV. I went to wally world and picked up some Rotella 15w40 which is an oil many members use on the RSV's. I also picked up a couple of Super Teck 7317 filters. The oil cost $11 for 1 gal. While I was looking at the different motor oils I noticed a Motorcraft 15w40 Heavey Weight Diesel Motor Oil. The Motorcraft wa $11.50 for 5 quarts which is a little cheaper. Has anyone used the Motorcrft Diesel Motor Oil and if you did how did you like it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BigDog Posted May 22, 2009 Share #2 Posted May 22, 2009 Boy, you just opened a can of worms. I personally use Amsoil 20-50 in mine. Im sure by tonight this thread will be so full of info your head will spin..... I do use the Super tek filters too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #3 Posted May 22, 2009 Not meaning to hijack yer thread but I'm wondering what the implications might be going to the Rotella deisel oil after running amsoil synthetic for 1 oil change?? keep in mind that there's only been 2 oil changes on my scoot since new and because I bought it after the first change, I have no idea what the PO put in it before I got it. It was changed at 1000 km (600+ miles) and then I changed it to Amsoil Synthetic at 1300 km .... it's now got almost 7400km on it and due for a change (geeez...can't believe I've put over 6000 km since last Nov) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
similost Posted May 22, 2009 Share #4 Posted May 22, 2009 I use Mobile 1 20-50 synthetic... I also use a Scott's oil filter... I don't trust disposable filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted May 22, 2009 Share #5 Posted May 22, 2009 Remember you started this!! I use Castrol 20/50 Dino oil. According to seal it has No Friction Modifiers. I have used this for years in all my bikes and have never had a oil related problem. "Blue Beast" had a diet of it over 60k that i know of and was going stronger than the average 2nd gen when she went down with 98,756 miles!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeman Posted May 22, 2009 Share #6 Posted May 22, 2009 20/50 on my 2006 RSV from dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YamaDuck Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted May 22, 2009 The previous owner never used synthetic and from what I've read and been told by a motorcycle mechanic is if you use synthetic you can't go back to conventional motor oil. I don't know how true this information is or what would happen if you did go back. I know synthetic is superior to conventional motor oil but from my research my understanding is that if you change your oil every 3000 to 4000 miles that you waist your money by buying a synthetic motor oil. From what I've read that if you wait until 8000 miles between oil changes then you need synthetic because conventional motor oil would break down. As long as conventional motor oil does not have additives and meets the motor oil standards of SG (which both of these motor oils do) then it is safe. Both these motor oils are diesel oils which withstand higher temps and have a higher (zinc or something like that) .16 verses regular motor oil of .05 which motorcycle oils have .015. Conventional motor oils do not break down in 3000 to 4000 miles so they are safe to use in motorcycles as long as they meet the motorcycle motor oil requirements. If I did go to a synthetic motor oil I would probably go to the Rotella or another synthetic diesel motor oil. I was just courious if anyone has used the Motorcraft Heavy Duty Diesel conventional motor oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #8 Posted May 22, 2009 at least 2 of you posted that you use 20/50 weight oil ... have you ever used 10/40 and if so, what differences have you noticed? Why do you use 20/50 as opposed to 10/40? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #9 Posted May 22, 2009 Rotella or another synthetic diesel motor oil. Are you saying that Rotella Diesel oil is synthetic? If so, then from what you say, there shouldn't be any problem going from Amsoil synthetic to Rotella Diesel (if it is, in fact, synthetic) ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YamaDuck Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted May 22, 2009 at least 2 of you posted that you use 20/50 weight oil ... have you ever used 10/40 and if so, what differences have you noticed? Why do you use 20/50 as opposed to 10/40? Anyone? If I understand it right the 10w40 would be good for colder temps like up north assuming you rode in the cold weather. The 5w's and 10's can also be the high efficiency oils that have a lot a additives that can make your clutch slip. You just have to make sure that the oil you use does not have the additives. Anyway that is my understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YamaDuck Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share #11 Posted May 22, 2009 Are you saying that Rotella Diesel oil is synthetic? If so, then from what you say, there shouldn't be any problem going from Amsoil synthetic to Rotella Diesel (if it is, in fact, synthetic) ?? Rotella makes a conventional and a synthetic motor oil. The conventional is in the white jug and the synthetic is in the blue jug. I would not see why you could not go from Amsoil to synthetic Rotella. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #12 Posted May 22, 2009 Rotella makes a conventional and a synthetic motor oil. The conventional is in the white jug and the synthetic is in the blue jug. I would not see why you could not go from Amsoil to synthetic Rotella. cool...so for me, the question still remains...is there any advantage to going from Amsoil (non diesel) to Rotella Synthetic Diesel and what, if any, difference might there be? As for 10/40 or 20/50 and associated temps, we do get pretty warm in and around these parts in the summer .... some areas we travel are over 80 quite regularly (now don't you sutherners wet yerselves laffin!!!) :rotf:and even get up to the 90's a few times. Funny...maybe it's cuz of my age going up and memory going down but I can't recall exactly what I ran in prev bikes (10/40 or 20/50) duh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted May 22, 2009 Share #13 Posted May 22, 2009 The previous owner never used synthetic and from what I've read and been told by a motorcycle mechanic is if you use synthetic you can't go back to conventional motor oil. I don't know how true this information is or what would happen if you did go back. I have heard that if you do go back, something shrivels up and falls off your body. No other explanations were given. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #14 Posted May 22, 2009 I have heard that if you do go back, something shrivels up and falls off your body. No other explanations were given. oh yeah? does it fall of completely or just partially? (my hair fell off completely...what are you talking about?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcijr Posted May 22, 2009 Share #15 Posted May 22, 2009 I've been told by mechanics that you can go back and forth with no problems. You can mix them too. Here is some info I found out there on websites of oil manufacturers... http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/synthetics/synthetic_oils_faqs.aspx http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/ http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014502&contentId=7017050 Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoyinMS Posted May 22, 2009 Share #16 Posted May 22, 2009 Oils are light years ahead of what they were when I was a kid. Simply put, you can change your oil type and brand at every change if you want to. Go from Synthetic to dino and back if you want. None of it will hurt your engine. Just don't use 'energy conserving' oils. They won't hurt the engine but will cause the clutch to slip. And don't mix oil. Drain and refill with whatever your choice is; not 2qts of this and 2qts of that. The additives in one may not be compatible with another. But it does seem that some oils will let the bike shift better and cut down on engine noises. Which ones? Looks like every bike is different. My first oil change I used Amsoil Motorcycle Oil (10w40 I think) and it immediately started shifting smoother but that could have been from fresh oil. I just started using Synthetic Rotella 5w40 and I can't tell any difference. I may go to Mobil 1 car oil next. (I do like synthetics better but dinos work fine) Oil filters are pretty much the same. You can spend $3.00 or $20.00 and they are still going to filter oil. Some are made better and some have more filter area but I figure any $4-$5 filter will do the job unless you never change oil. These aren't 1950's engines that wear out in 50,000 miles. Even a Fram will do the job, as proven by a few here that do use them. So, you can spend $15 or up to $50. (And I have done it, too) Both will do the job. I guess one will give you a little more peace of mind. And thats my worth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted May 22, 2009 Share #17 Posted May 22, 2009 I wouldn't recommend the MotorCraft oil because it's not very common. If you're out in the middle of nowhere and for some reason you need to add some oil, Rotella is sold everywhere. I personally run 15W40 Rotella and a Purolater PureOne oil filter. Oil change runs me around $18 and takes 10 minutes and 2 beers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted May 22, 2009 Share #18 Posted May 22, 2009 I wouldn't recommend the MotorCraft oil because it's not very common. If you're out in the middle of nowhere and for some reason you need to add some oil, Rotella is sold everywhere. I personally run 15W40 Rotella and a Purolater PureOne oil filter. Oil change runs me around $18 and takes 10 minutes and 2 beers. eighteen dollars including 2 beers?? wow ! (you did factor in the cost of the beers, didncha?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renne Posted May 23, 2009 Share #19 Posted May 23, 2009 Ok, cats outta the bag, I'm a Schaeffer oil rep, nuff said, I would NOT suggest any 15/40 Diesel oil for any "gas" engine period. They are NOT formulated for GAS folks, they're formulated for DIESEL! I've run Schaeffer 20/50 Racing oil in my street rods, customs and all my bikes. I've been riding over 50 years. I've owned HD's, Yamaha's, Hondas, Triumphs, BSA's, Ariels, Nortons, Bultacos (2 strokes), Royal Enfields, and a host of others, (1938 Areo) yes and even a Vincent! Go to http://www.Schaefferoil.com. Tech data sheets and MSDS sheets are available for your viewing. I just purchased an "08" (off the floor NEW) Venture, I like it, I just ckicked 600mi and of course, time for the "first" lube,,,, Schaeffer 20/50 and 80/90 gear lube in the diff. Rode about 100 clicks and reduced my rear "whine" significantly!....That's it from me! Respects on whatever you decide to use, as for me, well ?,,,,need more info,,,,lemmeno Renne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted May 23, 2009 Share #20 Posted May 23, 2009 Ok, cats outta the bag, I'm a Schaeffer oil rep, nuff said, I would NOT suggest any 15/40 Diesel oil for any "gas" engine period. They are NOT formulated for GAS folks, they're formulated for DIESEL! Gotta disagree with ya there. The Rotella is SJ approved. I know plenty of folks that run Rotella in their cars/pickups. I know 1 fella that runs 10,000 miles between changes using Rotella and he has 140,000 on his Dakota. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheradan Posted May 23, 2009 Share #21 Posted May 23, 2009 Something to keep in mind. Regular "motor" oils are just that. Motor oils. Not transmission oils. Motorcycle oils are made to accommodate the transmission also. I use Spectro Golden 20-50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogmaster Posted May 23, 2009 Share #22 Posted May 23, 2009 Read this then you decide http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renne Posted May 23, 2009 Share #23 Posted May 23, 2009 SJ "approved" doesn't mean much in the "real" oil business world. Like I said, "respects on what you choose to use" but Shell and Mobile have an lotta $ behind the're marketing. Like Amsoil,,,throw a dead cat in any direction and you hit hit an AMSOIL marketer. For my money, it's the industrial lubricant companies, Schaeffer, Whitmore, DuBois and a handfull of others that bear the weight of performance, especially on giant mining equipment and military applications where there are NO margins! I understand and like the Schaeffer synth/dino blend. I've tried em all,,,,,I like the company! Still,,respects, (really)! Renne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted May 23, 2009 Share #24 Posted May 23, 2009 Something to keep in mind. Regular "motor" oils are just that. Motor oils. Not transmission oils. Motorcycle oils are made to accommodate the transmission also. I use Spectro Golden 20-50. Not true, motor oil is motor oil. Motorcycle oil does not have any special additives to make it "sheer resistant". The transmission doesn't have any effect on the oil itself, the oil isn't trapped between the gears. Caterpiller and John Deere use engine oil in the Hydraulic systems on most of their units. Im sure if engine oil can hold 3000psi on a loader for 4000hrs, then our little motorcycle transmissions are not going to hurt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted May 23, 2009 Share #25 Posted May 23, 2009 Gotta disagree with ya there. The Rotella is SJ approved. I know plenty of folks that run Rotella in their cars/pickups. I know 1 fella that runs 10,000 miles between changes using Rotella and he has 140,000 on his Dakota. Whoops. I lied, Rotella is rates CJ-4/SM. So it's approved in diesel engines requiring CJ-4 oil and gasoline motors requiring SM oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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