YamaDuck

I am fine. Today is my Birthday I made it to 67. I ride a 2010 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited now. Don't like it as much as my old MM but at least I can still buy new parts when I need them. I don't ride much but do ride one long trip a year. Take care everyone, Harry

My Venture takes a bulb. Dont remember what the number is maybe H4? I bought a 40w 80w LED bulb. It looked good but I had to run on high beam to see anything. Reflective paint like signs and tape really popped and were very bright at night from far away but the distance you could see on the road was greatly reduced. And the blue high beam indicator light on the dash was always on. I took it off. Maybe they have gotten better over the past year.

:rotfl:

That is the battery volts. Bike not running but everything connected. It may have been the cheap meter or it could have been the fool trying to use the cheap meter.

I can't find the dang bad connection! I did find a connector that the clip had been broken off. I just touch the wires and the connectors came apart. I zip tied the connector together which may have been part of the problem. You see the guy I bought this bike from told me a little untruth when he told me it had never been wrecked. I later found the damage in the lower left fairing. That is where I found this connection that the connector was broken. So this is what I have just done. This test is with engine off and bike at rest with all battery cables connected; I looked at my 11 Alive active radar and nothing in sight so I measured the battery and it was 12.78 volts. I cranked it up put a tape it the tape deck (and it works) turned up "The Who", turned on the CB, put the high beams on high, made sure the LED driving lights were on, and turned on the two 55 watt lower driving lights, oh and hooked up the GPS and turned it on. Everything is on except the green LED's and I did not hook up the heated suit as I would not run them and the lower driving lights at the same time anyway ( I think that would be too big a draw). I headed to the gas station 3 miles away and filled it up. I then headed to Staples and made some copies. I then went on a ride for at least an hour. I would have been longer but the rain was coming down so hard I was having a real tough time seeing where I was going. So started at 12.78 volts When I got home it was 12.89 volts One hour later it was 12.84 volts. Looks good to me. May not be as good as it should be but at long as it is charging that is good enough for me right now. I replaced the RR and that may not solve the problem but it certainly helped. Harry

Flyinfool hit the nail right on the head!

I got the H4 Led replacement bulb. I can not recommend them at least not the one I got for around $60. You have to run it on high beam at night just to see a little ways down the road and when you dim the lights the blue dash light does not go out it just dims also. Most people said in the daylight on dim they could not even tell my headlight was on.

I've got the Northern Tool LED's for $40 each and I am very pleased. You need to do a little jimmying to get them to fit into you buckets but they work. I think there is a post somewhere on here about them.

Mt. Evens west of Denver is the highest paved road in the US. It is over 14,000 feet high. On the way up you pass Lake Echo. A beautiful lake with snow covered mountain tops in the background and a souvenir shop right there at the lake. On the way up you pass through Mount Goliath Natural Area that have the weirdest looking trees. Also a very nice canyon ride that follows the Colorado River in the eastern Utah is highway 128. It goes from I-70 down to Arches which is another sight to see.

Ohhhhh the membership dues:doh:. Hey I don't even think about that. $12 is such a bargain to have access to all you wonderful people.

You left off a 1 in front of that $12. But I did also get a shifter seal and 3 copper washers . Now one down and a 2001 to go.

Well my MM is on the road again. Hurray!:banana::banana:A few weeks ago she barely made it home. I went an a charity ride and on the way home I could tell by the electrical problems I probably would not be able to crank it once I turned it off and sure enough I got home and she would not crank. I pulled the battery and had it tested and it tested good. I put it in the other bike and charged it and it cranked fine. I switched RR to see if it would charge regulate voltage to the other bike and it did (but unknowingly to me at the time only when it was cold). This MM now had the battery and the RR out of the other bike. I figured maybe a brake light got stuck on or something. Well I was backing the MM out of the garage and all of a sudden the clutch lever just lost all pressure. So the fine members here told me the slave unit went out. So I ordered the slave unit and put it back on yesterday. Hurray now all I needed to do was bleed the system. :bang head: and after some more fine members here told me that these bike are hard to get to bleed I finally got pressure in the clutch lever. So today I measured the voltage and took her for a test ride and everything worked! I checked the voltage when I got back and it was fine.:301:So I have one of the bikes back on the road again...

Alright a friend just stopped by with a good voltmeter. Checking the AC voltage with the RR off and the bike running and checking the 3 white wires as directed by Flyinfool we get about 25 volts at idle across all three white wires 1-2, 2-3, and 1-3. Revved it depends on how high you rev it but at the point we stopped it was about 55 volts. We did the DC continuity test between all 3 white wires and again they checked out. My voltmeter was not sensitive enough to spit out and accurate reading. We then did a DC test to ground and again the readings came back all the same. So now I'm back to square one and checking the connections.

Yes the 3 white wire ground test were done with the RR unplugged. When I tried to do the AC test with the RR unplugged I did not get any reading. I had the black lead in the black wire and I had the red lead in each of the white wires one at a time. With the engine running I got nothing but with the RR plugged in I got the results above.

I need to find someone around here that sells JIS tools bits. I have an impact driver though.

Thank you! I have the handlebars turned all the way to the right and I have two 1X4's under the kickstand. I will check now for to see if there is anymore air.

Yea the slave was easy you just had to figure out which way to turn and when so you could get it back in there. The hardest part was hooking the line back up. The two copper washers. The one on the back side. I got lucky and somehow got it on the second try. I was on top of the world until I tried to bleed that stupid line. I went from on top of the world to oh crap here I go again. I bought a new speed bleeder and I could not get it to work, I tried the old bleeder and I could not get it to work. I finally got the new bleeder to work after much persistence and some advice from a few people here. Since I did not have a pump I made one. Take a piece of tubing and put it over the bleeder, take the other end of the tube and put it between your lips and start sucking. Boy that stuff taste nasty. The important thing is I have pressure and you can here something moving inside the engine when you pull the clutch lever. That is a good sign. Now I will see if there is anymore air in it in the morning and I should be good to go. I will leave well enough alone and not swap out the bleeder for the speed bleeder at least not yet. Yep you have to be real careful if you are going to squeeze that clutch lever with the cover off. Not to bad as long as air bubbles are coming up but once the air bubbles stop then watch out or you will be squirting brake fluid all over everything and you do not want that. So squeeze very gently once you have the air out.

Well I hope I don't have to do that again. It was completely dry so I had to get brake fluid into the whole system.

I think I may have finally found the problem. Flyinfool and anyone else for that matter please let me know what you think. I watched a video on how to test the stator a half a dozen times to make sure I understood (I am a little slow) I then proceeded to test the stator at the RR connection again. I was doing a few things wrong before. So here is what I did; 1) I tested all 3 white wires on the ohms setting and they all came back registering 001. I then checked a ground source and I tested it to make sure it was a ground source and I checked each of the 3 white wires again and again they all came back 001. Then; 2) I tested the AC voltage by sticking the black probe into the black connection with the RR connected and the engine running. I then took the red probe and checked all 3 white wires and here are the numbers; a) white wire #1 tested 13.5 volts AC at idle and when revved went down to 13.1 volts AC b) white wire #2 tested 13.1 volts AC at idle and when revved went up to 13.2 volts AC c) white wire #3 tested 6.5 volts AC at idle and when revved went down to 2.1 volts AC but would jump around back up to 6.5 volts and everything in between. From everything everyone is telling me and from what I see on the videos it seems to me the stator is shorting out or something. If anyone else knows if this is the problem or suspects something else may be the problem please let me know. If it is the stator I then have to make a decision on whether I want to torture myself again and try to do the job myself or whether I want to put it into the shop and pay someone else to fix it.

Seems I have got some resistance in the clutch lever. After letting it sit a wile I would squeeze the clutch lever with the cover off being very careful. The small hole next to the larger hole would have air bubbles come out. The clutch lever does not have as much resistance as it did but that may be a combination of things. 1) a new slave unit, 2) all new fluid, and 3) I may still have a little air in the system which I will check tomorrow.

Thank you both. I will let it sit overnight and if that doesn't work it is off to Harbor Freight tomorrow. Harry

I put a new clutch slave unit on today. It was leaking before and the clutch lever had no resistance. I replaced the slave unit with a new unit. The clutch lever still has no resistance. I have bled and bled and bled the system and still no resistance. Any suggestions? Harry

Thanks Greg, I actually did not have to take the exhaust off. I was able to unbolt the exhaust about mid frame right after the two pipes come together. There was just enough play that when I pulled outward on the exhaust pipe the shifter linkage had just enough room to squeeze by. The shifter seal is another story and I hope I never see another one.

Thanks no wonder I could not find the starter I was looking at the back of the engine, THANKS:thumbsup2:. The 3 white wire connector comes up from under the bike and when I trace the wires looks like it goes to the stator. The other end of the connector goes into the wiring harness that goes to the RR. Since the three white wires are larger than the normal wires I am assuming they are from the stator to the RR. I only ran the DC test. There is no black or red wire at the connector. I will watch the video on checking the AC voltage and see if my leads will reach from the RR to the connector and I will check the AC voltage at the connector. THANKS