YamaDuck

Since I thought I had the problem fixed until Flyinfool burst my bubble and told me I did not have it fixed (thanks Flyinfool) I have taken just about cover off that bike I can find. I have taken every connector I can find that is part of the charging system and cleaned it with CRC electrical cleaner. I have taken the fuses out and strayed CRC on every wire in the main fuse panel. I have taken the starter solenoid out and sprayed the the connector I have taken the fuse out of the solenoid and sprayed it with CRC. I have taken the thick black and red wires off the solenoid and sanded it with 600 grit sandpaper and sprayed it again with CRC. I took the positive cable off the battery and sanded it with 600 grit sandpaper both top and bottom along with sanding the top of the battery post. I sprayed the RR connector with CRC. I took the 3 white wire connector apart that is under the coolant tank and sprayed it with CRC. There was a connector under there that had 3 smaller wires I took it apart and sprayed it with CRC. There was a white 2 wire connecter with a green wire and a black wire (I think it was black) ti took it apart and sprayed it with CRC. There was a black connector there also with a smaller white and black wire. I took it apart and sprayed it with CRC. WHAT AM I MISSING!!! Does the bad connection have to be on the charging circuit? Could it be in the ignition? I have put two relays on the bike, one for the driving lights and one for the air horn neither of which are connected right now and the voltage still drops when the bike is revved. Could a bad connection on any the the LED lights that I have running whenever the bike is cranked cause this problem? I'm at my wits end here. It has a new RR and I have checked 001 across all three white wires. I appreciate all the support you guys have given me and Flyinfool has really been supportive but I'm going to have to put it in the shop if we can not think of something else to try and I really don't want to put it in the shop. Signed, at wits end! P.S. I went back and reread Flyinfools instruction. I did miss something, the starter connection. I can not find the starter. Please tell me it is not under a cover somewhere. In the service manual it only shows a small area around the stater and I thought I new where it was but I don't see it. Also O have only found one ground, it is the one on the right side of the engine by the horn. Could someone tell me where to look for the other ground. I am assuming there are two grounds. Thanks Harry

Thanks RSTDdog! I will follow your advise. Harry

Thanks Bubber. I found a connector under the coolant reservoir. They tested alright at the RR. I don't know if one of the white wire could cause the voltage to go down when the RPM's go up. Yes the 3 white wires are at the RR. There are 3 white wires a black and a red wire at the RR. Looks like 3 white wires coming out of the side cover. When I trace the 3 white wires from the side cover and the 3 white wires and one black and one red wire from the RR they seem to connect under the coolant reservoir. I don't know where the black and red wire went. My main concern now is how do I clean the contacts. I don't know if a carb cleaner will do the job or if I need to pull each wire out of the connector and clean it and put it back. I just don't know enough about this stuff. I don't want to break anything.

I'm still hunting down that bad connection in my charging system. I have checked the main fuse panel. I have checked and cleaned the starter solenoid. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals. I have checked the wiring plug at the RR. Everything is good so far. Now I want to check the three white wire stator connector but I can't find it. I see where the 3 white wires go into the side cover. Is that the connector or is the connector inside the cover and if so can you get to it from the larger cover on the side of the crankcase cover? It has two screws holding it in place that I will have to use an impact wrench to loosen the screws they are so tight but I don't want to open it if the connector is not in there. I have check the wiring diagram in the service manual but I can't make heads from tales in that diagram. Alright I found a heavy 3 white wire connector under the coolant tank reservoir but there were no black or red wires. I assume from the test Flyinfool had me do that the bad connection is on the positive side. This white 3 wire connection seems to me to go to the stator which is the connector I was looking for. It is filthy. This connector does look like it could use a good cleaning inside and out. This will probably not fix my problem but I would like to clean it if I can. Can I just spray carb cleaner in both halves? I don't know of a better way to get down inside there unless someone here knows a trick.

Providing I get one of these two bikes fixed

Thanks Bubber. I will be rested and since I now have ALL the seal out I will be ready when the new seal arrives. Harry

You had better believe it! Can't find the corroded connection on me 01 and took me all day to get that shifter seal out and ruin the new one on my MM. If I had my truck I would take both these to the dealer and say "FIX THESE THING!

Never mind. The old seal came out in 6 million little pieces which left the metal cup which after examining the one I destroyed trying to hammer it in on top of the metal bowl I see that the metal bowl is inclosed in the seal. Duh:doh:

Sorry I have so many questions but if you don't know you don't know. After a day trying to take one ..... ...... ... ..... Shifter seal out ( sorry for the dots I don't normally use that type of language) I found a round bowl shaped piece of metal inside the shifter seal. I was not expecting it since it is not shown in the parts list or shown in the parts diagram. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2000/VENTURE+MM+LIMITED+EDITION+-+XVZ13TFSM/SHIFT+SHAFT/parts.html My new seal does not have this metal bowl in it. (part number 9 in the parts list). Did Yamaha change the part or does the new seal go on top the the metal bowl and then insert into the hole?

Alright I disconnected everything that did not come from the factory. I have one main factory power lead to the positive and one to the negative. Voltage still dropping at RPM's rise. I have all my parts to the MM. Once I get it together and know it is running I will take this one to the shop and I don't care how long they keep it.

Thanks Dave. I will have them if I need them but I will not use them unless I need too.

Ok I didn't get knocked on my ..... but I did disconnect the battery just in case. I replaced the 25 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse. I cleaned the "B" connector. Still showing 235 and when revved the numbers still go down. I'm beat I am through for today. I have one more day to work on it before I have to keep my 4 month old granddaughter for two days. Thanks for the help today fellers I will start fresh in the morning.

Alright I found something. (besides my mistakes) I found out that I ran the test on the other bike the MM that is in the next stall. This one I checked the fuses under the left side cover and they looked good except a little dusty. When I took the plastic cover off the left side where the solenoid thing is someone had put a 25 amp fuse there. I am pretty sure it is suppose to be 30 amps. I also took the connector apart and everything looks nice and clean. Two copper colored wires on one side and two silver colored wires on the other side. There are two heavy wires that are bolted into a small board that both have rubber boots on them. One is marked "M" and has a heavy black wire going to it. That wire connector looks good. The other connector is marked "B" and has a heavy Red wire attached to it. This connector is covered about 1/3 of it with a with chalky looking powder. Now I know I need to replace the 25 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse. I need to clean the "B" connector. Do I need to disconnect the battery? I don't know how much voltage or amps are going through it. I don't want to get knocked on my ......

Yep I am doing thjat now. I had to break one of the clips on the fairing and grind down the head of a bolt because HF's cheap allen wrenches head broke off in the screw hole. Could not get it out with a magnet, could not drill it out. Lifetime warranty! Like I am going to trust them again. Anyway should have the original headlight back in within the hour.

I will certainly try that. I want to keep working with Jeff to find out way the voltage drops with higher RPM's. It appears to be on the + side. I do need to ride and check the battery to check the good, bad and ugly.

Just finished. I checked the voltage across the black and red wires at the RR to make sure I had power with engine off. I had over 13 volts. I set the HF voltmeter on 2000mV DC. I checked the red wire with engine off and it showed zero. I cranked it up and it showed 300 at idle but was slowly going down. When it got to about 230 I revved the engine and it continued to drop but at a much higher rate down to about 150. I then tried the black wire with engine off it showed zero. When I cranked it up it went to about 230 and then slowly started going down. When I revved it the number went down to 140 but at a much faster rate. Just ran the test again only this time I unplugged the H4 LED headlight. The Black wire did not change. Started at 001 and as I revved it stayed at 001. The Red however started at 001 when cranked it went up to 170 and when revved went down to 130. For starters I'm going to put the old Halogen headlight back in.

Ok I just look at the back of the plug. The wires look sealed. Will it hurt anything if I try to push the probes through the plug next to the wire? While I am waiting to find out what this means let me tell you about an aftermarket LED light that probably has nothing to do with what is going on but one of you may have some knowledge about this. I purchased a H4 LED replacement for my H4 Halogen headlight. It fit just fine as it is suppose to be a direct replacement. However I noticed on low beam the blue high beam indicator comes on but it comes on at half intensity. When I put it on high beam the blue indicator light in the instrument panel comes on full intensity. Is there a chance this is messing with the electrical charging system?

I have to take the fairing off and unbolt the RR again but I do have one question as I want to make sure I am doing this correctly. Do I do this test with or without the RR plugged in? Thanks for all the help!

I hardly ever ride it with that much turned on to bring it down to 12.75 volts. Most of my riding it is at the 13.75 volts at idle but it drops to 13.35 when I rev the engine. I am going through all the connections to see if I can find a bad connection that may be causing the drop.

This is the one I have. I put the black lead in the bottom hole and the red lead in the mA hole. I don't know what the top hole is for. I don't have the instructions and it never goes below0.01 and I don't know how to zero it. At least when I get the new one shortly it will have instructions.

Boy your so right. I would love to just ride it like it is but your right it would just leave me stranded again down the road. I did check those and they looked good to me. Would coating all the electrical connections with that electrical grease like they use on lights make things better or worse? The test I ran at the RR connection all checked out but I'm going to get a better voltmeter tomorrow and check again.

I have followed Flyingfools list the best I can up to #6 the Stator. I checked on ground the one over the horn on the right side. I don't know where the other one is. I don't know what or where the solenoid connection is so I did not check that. I checked the fuses under the left side cover along with the fuse and connection to the starter thing under the plastic panel under the left passenger footrest. I had a bad R/R so I replace that. I know where the connector is on the side of the engine but I am afraid to take it off to check the condition of the contacts in the plug. I'm not sure how it comes out and I don't want to break it but everything tested good on the R/R plug end. I think I need to go buy me a good voltmeter. The cheap one I am using came from Harbor Freight and I don't think it is sensitive enough for what Flyinfools talking about in #6 for testing the stator. I will get one tomorrow and do my best to follow everything I can figure out on Flyinfools instructions. I stopped following the procedure when I thought I had fixed the problem.

So do I put the black wire of the voltmeter on the neg. terminal and the red lead at the black jack of the R/R plug and then the same thing for the positive side? Do I set the voltmeter on DC? Sorry I don't know anything about electricity:confused24:.

The LED's do hit it pretty hard but only the two Driving lights have a circuit board so I assume maybe a ballast. All the other LED's are just strip LED's with a very very thin wire that is so thin it is difficult to strip the insulation off without breaking the wire. Yes I know 12.75 is breaking even but I hardly every run it with all that stuff on. Everyone is saying the same thing that revved should be higher than idle and that makes sense to me but that is not what the test show. Yes the voltage always returns to within 0.10 almost immediately then slowly returns the rest of the way after a minute or two. Yes the voltage returns after test 4,5, and 6 if I do the 1 and 2 test again. I don't know what RPM it is. I am revving in neutral and I am revving very high but I don't have a tachometer to see the RPM's. All the test were done at the battery. No I don't have anyway to measure it while riding.

Somebody just shoot me...PLEASE! I checked the plug at the R/R and the DC voltage at each of the 3 white wires was 0.01 I checked with the black wire in each of the white wire positions and checked the white wire in the other two position and they all came back 0.01 volts. I then checked the black wire against the red wire and it came back 12.80 volts. I then started the bike and checked the AC voltage with my analog voltmeter because I don't see AC on my digital voltmeter and it reads 2 volts on all 3 white wires. Now I'm not the sharpest tack in the drawer so I don't know how to check the voltage on just the black wire or just the red wire. Could that bad connection be where the 3 white wires go into the side cover where the stator is and if so do I need to pull the cover to get to the 3 white wires to check them? So please tell me how to check the voltage on the black wire and on the red wire and I'll tear into the bike again tomorrow. :crying: