marty03 Posted March 5, 2009 Share #1 Posted March 5, 2009 Just purchased an 03 RSV with 13300 miles. Takes forever to start when cold runs great when warmed up. It take me 5 to 10 minutes to get it going with the temp in garage around 45.Any tricks or suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eazyduzzit Posted March 5, 2009 Share #2 Posted March 5, 2009 You said you just got it. Are you using the choke? I know this sounds obvious, but I never had to choke the V-star I had before the Royal Star, but I have to choke this one even when it's warm outside. If it runs good when it's warm I'm thinking the choke isn't working right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marty03 Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted March 5, 2009 Yes using chock all parts are moving so i believe the chock is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankc Posted March 5, 2009 Share #4 Posted March 5, 2009 Just a thought, but did you check the carb heaters? Maybe the previous owner disconnected them. Or maybe a fuse or electrical problem to the heaters. Good Luck and let us know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted March 5, 2009 Share #5 Posted March 5, 2009 This is absolutely not a normal issue with these bikes. Both of mine have always fired up immediately, even with temps down in the teens. I ride virtually every day, so that does ensure that no sludge and other crap has built up in the carbs. Several things for you to check. First, make sure the carbs are in good clean working order. If you have any doubts, run some high concentration of Seafoam through them, then use normal Seafoam in the gas for several tanks. If your fuel filter has not been changed in the past several years, do that. Probably should put new plugs in it too, just to be sure they are not part of the problem. Then when you first start it, use your fingers to check how fast the header pipes (under the heat shields) are heating up during the first 30 seconds or so; if one or more are not burning your fingers by that time, it is not firing right. Coil problems are not unknown on these machines. You will also want to ensure the carbs are properly synced. Make sure the two vacuum hoses and two rubber caps on the other vacuum ports are in good shape. If the caps are more than two years old, they ARE leaking, so replace them. These normally cause exhaust popping on decel when they start to leak, but a lean mixture will certainly affect cold starting too. Lastly, the choke plungers often stick a lot on older or higher mileage bikes, and the connecting mechanism to these plungers is very soft metal and is often bent enough so they do not operate together, if at all. Carefully look at the plunger on each carb with the choke closed and ensure they are all fully in and the actuating bar is in the same position within the notch on the end of the plunger. Use needle nose pliers to slightly bend the arm if necessary. Observe each plunger when slowly pulling out the choke to ensure they all start to move at the same time, and they all come fully out. Use spray carb cleaner on them if they hang up at all. Do all these things and I am sure your baby will fire instantly when cold. Goose BTW - it is not the carb heaters - they only come on when the bike is in gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royalstarjac Posted March 5, 2009 Share #6 Posted March 5, 2009 Are you keeping your hand off the throttle? Pull the enrichener knob out, turn the key on, put transmission in neutral hold clutch lever in, press start button keeping your hand off the throttle. That is the cold starting procedure. Same for warm starting except do not pull enrichener knob out and open throttle slightly.-Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N3FOL Posted March 5, 2009 Share #7 Posted March 5, 2009 I always choke in cold temps and it fires right up. Normally, I'll put the choke to its normal position after a minute of idling. After 4 to 5 minutes, my ride is ready to go. Take V7Goose's advise, it will point you to the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boominup Posted March 5, 2009 Share #8 Posted March 5, 2009 One more thing that helps mine start easily, turn the key to the "on" position 3 or 4 times till the fuel pumps quit clicking. If the bike hasn't run in a long while, you have to make sure that they are full of fuel before trying to start it. I don't try to start it at all during hibernation and the bowls are not full when it's time to put it on the road. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar836 Posted March 5, 2009 Share #9 Posted March 5, 2009 If you turn the key to the on position and let it there until the fuel pump stops clicking, you have built fuel pressure. Not sure I would do the "3 to 4 times" with the known issue of the ignition switch....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogmaster Posted March 6, 2009 Share #10 Posted March 6, 2009 if you turn the key to the on position and let it there until the fuel pump stops clicking, you have built fuel pressure. Not sure i would do the "3 to 4 times" with the known issue of the ignition switch....... agree 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogmaster Posted March 6, 2009 Share #11 Posted March 6, 2009 Are you keeping your hand off the throttle? Pull the enrichener knob out, turn the key on, put transmission in neutral hold clutch lever in, press start button keeping your hand off the throttle. That is the cold starting procedure. Same for warm starting except do not pull enrichener knob out and open throttle slightly.-Jack AGREE 100% I started my bike last weekend at 5 degrees F but the Rotella-SYN-5w-40 Helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marty03 Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted March 6, 2009 You guys are AWESOME! V7Goose thank you for the info, I put seafoam in it yesterday and then ran the full tank out. This morning went to start and she fired the first time. I'm putting the rest of the seafoam in and will run another full tank. I will also check the carb chock tabs, and anything else just to go thru everything. You all know that when buying used you don't know where you are at when it comes to maintenance and previous usage. This bike with the low mileage probably sat most of the time which is never good. Again thanks to all and if ever in Iowa look me up. marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltyDawg Posted March 6, 2009 Share #13 Posted March 6, 2009 New plugs, Seafoam in gas tank, and a carb sync after running through a tank with seafoam in it. The bike more than likely has varnish built up in the carbs. Don't concern yourself with the carb heaters, I disconnected mine and ride in temps down to 12 degrees with no problems. In fact if you plan on using any heated equipment I would suggest pulling the fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted March 7, 2009 Share #14 Posted March 7, 2009 I would also consider completly draining the tank, run it down to reserve, and beyond. then do a complet drain of the tank. Put a little HEET in before draining. Also, consider draining all 4 carb bowls. Each one has a drain valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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