Jump to content
IGNORED

Choke Question for the Carb Guru's


Recommended Posts

On the '83 when you try to start it cold, and set the choke lever to full on, it will not fire....ever.. unless I start to gradually reduce the choke setting while cranking. Then about half way off it fires but stumbles, and I need to go back up to full on to keep it running. I can also not give it any choke, and it'll fire right off the git-go, but need to give it full choke quick to keep it running. After it's runing with full on choke it only idles around 1500 rpm, but as it warms up it steadly increases to 3000rpm maybe more??. When it gets to 3 grand I start cutting back on the choke until it's around 2000rpm and then the r's will continue to climb back up to 3 as it get's even warmer. After about three of these 'adjustments' I can back the choke all the way off and it will idle at a 1000rpm. I've been living with this for a couple of years now. It's not something that causes any worry. When warm the bike starts and runs great. All diaphragms are perefect. Recent plugs and carb sync. Any ideas????:confused24::scratchchin::think:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Jack, don't kill the Messenger !! !!

 

 

My Max is as picky as your '83. I dug into every Aspect more than once to NO avial. Carbs, Choke Settings, Floater Valves, Igniter, Plugs, Wires, Pickup Coil, Coils whatever you can think of. I just live with it. It's a V4-Motor, and it's an individual ....

 

 

My CX Turbo didn't start with Iridium Plugs. I did tear the whole Bike apart and found nothing unusual. I put the Iridium Plugs into the Boots and they fired outside the Cylinder. Then one Day, i pulled the old standard Plugs out of the Trash and whalla ... The bike started right up. Standard out, Iridium in, nothing, nada ...

 

So finally, i trashed those expensive Iridium Plugs and live lucky with my standard Plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like the idle (low speed) circuits are dirty/plugged. Take the carbs off and clean every orifice, jet, hole, that you can find. Follow up with compressed air. Use a whole large can of spray carb cleaner, but do not get it on any rubber parts. Remove the fuel enricheners (choke) too. I believe there is a section, posting to do that here.

Try SeaForm first but I always do it it the hard "right" way.

Yes, check for any vacuum leaks too by spraying oil around all joints. If it gets better momentarily that's a leak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like the idle (low speed) circuits are dirty/plugged. Take the carbs off and clean every orifice, jet, hole, that you can find. Follow up with compressed air. Use a whole large can of spray carb cleaner, but do not get it on any rubber parts. Remove the fuel enricheners (choke) too. I believe there is a section, posting to do that here.

Try SeaForm first but I always do it it the hard "right" way.

Yes, check for any vacuum leaks too by spraying oil around all joints. If it gets better momentarily that's a leak.

 

Idles fine, so I don't think it could be the idle circuits. I also run about a half can of Sea Foam every third tank, and store it for long periods during the winter with a Sea Foam mix in the tank and bowls.. It doesn't make any difference if it's summer or winter tho-. It might be the inrichment valves, but they seem to work once it's fired, and the R's increase once it's running, and will slow down by reducing the choke lever, which should be leaning the idle mixture...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi ya Jack

 

It's got to be one of the blondes. My '84 is the exact same way. Did it before the carb rebuild and still doing it. Ya gotta be Wyatt Earp on the choke lever to catch it a keep her running.

 

I was thinking more like Quick Draw McGraw.... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would still put my money on the fine fuel jet in the fuel bowls AND the associated ports in the carb body involved. You can mask a fair amount of clogging by turning up the idle screw (as it slowly clogs), and adjusting the carb sync screws as you go.

 

Mine always needed about 1/2 choke to start. Pulled the carbs and sent the bodies through an acid bath in an ultra-sonic tank along with the separated jets. She needs a bit of choke when it's real cold but otherwise I just hit the button. In my opinion it's impossible to clean the carb body ports without a good bath. Spraying carb cleaner around will soften the junk a bit but the bath takes it away.

 

And ALWAYS check the condition of the carb diaphragms!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My '84 blue one has always started like this.

 

I can also not give it any choke, and it'll fire right off the git-go, but need to give it full choke quick to keep it running.

 

It isn't really a problem getting the choke on in time, I don't have to be that fast but if I miss the right moment....................., she don't like it.

 

I have always assumed this was just the nature of the beast, but my come lately '84 red one likes the choke on first and is a bit more conventional overall in her choke requirements.

 

I have written it off to individual personalities and lived with it. After all its just good sense (and survival strategy) for a guy to remember how to please the girls.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Uxbridge Ont.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...