stuck pilot adj screws

well I got two of them loose. but the other two are stuck tight. and I finished off the slot on them. didn't think I was using that much force. I soaked them for 4 days before trying. I heated up oil and pored on them. cussed them, begged them, even took a bolt and made a tip for them.lol so now to get rough???? cant find part numbers for them or who sells them has anyone drilled and used a easy out. or do I have to punt:think:

Here is an eight year old thread on drilling out the air/fuel mixture screws, but I don't know the guy that did it or what his name was then.

RandyA

Here is an eight year old thread on drilling out the air/fuel mixture screws, but I don't know the guy that did it or what his name was then.

RandyA

 

Sears has been pushing a remover that looks like a reverse threaded wood screw. Don't know if they make one small enough to get to the idle screw on a first gen, but it's maybe worth a look....??

 

I got this part number from a service bulletin for the '83TK. 12R-14105-00-00

Apparently still available from Yamaha.

 

A friend of mine had stripped pilot screw heads on his Venture. He actually removed part of the carb body and using a Dremel tool he milled a new screwdriver slot in the pilot screw and was able to remove the pilot screw.

 

Another thought: find a reverse (left hand) drill bit and start drilling, perhaps it will back out the pilot screw.

Good Luck!

I have seen some small easy outs advertised. I'm not sure you can get deep enough into the pilot screw recess with them. If you can find one that fits it would be a good option.

 

If you are drilling get a set of left hand bits and the right center punch, start small, go slow.

Edited August 28, 2014 by tz89

I just came in the house thought about the dremmel tool cut on way in. esp or what weird. at this point will probably murder the housing. don't look pretty but at this point don't care. just put fuel pump for a Honda civic on bike didn't like the other universal pump. have to replace pilot housing gasket so will order needles while at it. thanks kevin was worried about cutting into it. again thank you.

also that picture shows needle spring washer rubber in that order. all the ones I got off are needle rubber washer spring. so is mine incorrect? maybe that is why they wont come out. but would think it kept dirt out.

also that picture shows needle spring washer rubber in that order. all the ones I got off are needle rubber washer spring. so is mine incorrect? maybe that is why they wont come out. but would think it kept dirt out.

 

The correct re-assembly into the carb body:

1. O-ring

2. Washer

3. Spring

4. Needle

 

When one removes a properly installed pilot screw set, one often has to use a little hook, compressed air or a blast from carb cleaner to blow the washer and O-ring out from within.

Get a drill bit that is almost the same size as the bore. Drill out the head of the screw and in doing so you will get a perfect center for a smaller bit. Go easy so as not to drill too deep and seeing as it's brass it won't take much. Once you have the centering, use a small bit to drill out the rest, again go easy. Once that is done an easy-out should finish the job.

well used dremmel, cut all the way to brace screw bracket. was still 1/4 inch past. measured needle I had out. looked in throttle bore could see end of needle. just my luck. ordered a carb assy off ebay. all needles and drain screws came out and no screws were rounded off. took apart to check parts. they seen me coming when they sold me this bike

Get a drill bit that is almost the same size as the bore. Drill out the head of the screw and in doing so you will get a perfect center for a smaller bit. Go easy so as not to drill too deep and seeing as it's brass it won't take much. Once you have the centering, use a small bit to drill out the rest, again go easy. Once that is done an easy-out should finish the job.

Another option which I have used many times start as Carl says with a drill bit the same size as the hole and partially drill to get a perfect center then drill a small about 1/2 the diameter of the idle screw approx 1/4" into the screw. Next get a long reach turned down torx Bit slightly bigger than the small hole. Grind the end of the torx bit flat so as to have square sharp edges on the end than tap it into the small hole. Once it has cut its way into the hole at least 1/8" gently turn the bit back and forth until it starts to break loose continue the back and fort motion and squirting penetrating oil in the hole until you have completely backed the screw out. The key here is gently and back and forth do not try to force it even when you think it is going to come out with extra force.

 

ADDED TIP: if you have trouble keeping the torx bit centered while tapping it in. get a drill bit the same diameter as the torx bit and just drill into the smaller hole no more than a 1/32". All you want is enough to keep the torx bit centered while you drive it into the smaller hole.

Edited September 1, 2014 by saddlebum

Please let me know which side is bad on yours I an in need of half a rack, and how much you would sell your's for, thanks Mike.

3 and 4 are good the slide diaphrams are junk used the good ones on other rack will they help you

Get some Bees wax. I get here in the NW USA at Ace Hardware; they sell it in a blister pack hanging in the isle. Ask someone where it is. Get a syringe, go home and melt a syrige worth of wax and from the syringe squirt it on to the head of the stuck screw, if you have a LOW heat source (like a heat gun) you can keep the wax melted while (and so it can) penetrate the threads. You want to keep the heat down as the carb IS aluminum so a heat gun just hot enough to keep the wax melted should be ok. According to Ask.com Beeswax has a melting point of approximately 143 to 147 degrees Fahrenheit. It has no fixed melting point because the composition varies from one wax to another. Most aluminum melts at Aluminum melts at 1220.666 °F.

 

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_8519909_melt-aluminum.html

 

So use your heat gun with discretion. test your screw often.

I used beeswax on a 1957 GMC door hinge. 3 bolts per side of the hinge, they all are made like a coke bottle so they won't come loose. they were rusted BIG TIME, WD-40, Koil(a well know penetrant used by machinists), heat, nothing worked. I heated up the head of the bolt, pushed the hockey puck of beeswax on the head of the bolt, waited till it flowed behind the bolt and I'll tell ya what, all those bolts came out; It was a struggle with the rust on the fine threads and the way it bunched up behind the hinge. I didn't strip or break 1 of them. 12 for 12. It was amazing!

http://wheretobuybeeswax.net/

Looks like they will work for me, the set you have are from a 83 not the later set from the 86 on.

Looks like they will work for me, the set you have are from a 83 not the later set from the 86 on.

 

they are off a 83 when I get mine running and know I don't need parts will send them to you for cost of shipping. o and I expect a Christmas card. lol:stickpoke:rod

Well thank you very much, I guess I will need you're address I can send you a Money order for the cost of shipping if that is how you want to handle it I can give you my address also

They have a private message service on this site if you want to keep things a bit more private. And I would be be more than happy to send you a card at Christmas. I will try to send you something on the Private message system right now

well I got two of them loose. but the other two are stuck tight. and I finished off the slot on them. didn't think I was using that much force. I soaked them for 4 days before trying. I heated up oil and pored on them. cussed them, begged them, even took a bolt and made a tip for them.lol so now to get rough???? cant find part numbers for them or who sells them has anyone drilled and used a easy out. or do I have to punt:think:

 

Did you try the beeswax?

Left handed drill bit, 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is the best penetrant on the market. Easy outs are usually useless.

Left handed drill bit, 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is the best penetrant on the market. Easy outs are usually useless.

Left hand drill bits are good if things get to moving easily but you cannot wiggle back and forth on a stubborn screw or bolt with them. very important when trying to loosen something up. Also very hard to remove if they break in the hole because you cannot drill them out. At work I have seen many techs get in trouble that way.

 

Easy outs I no longer own. I discovered many years ago when I was stuck with no easy out but happen to have a set of torx bits on hand that torx bits out perform easy outs in many ways. You can drive one into a drilled hole (slightly smaller than the Torx bit) remove it heat and quickly cool a seized bolt to help break it loose. then drive it back into the pre-made splines and wiggle the offending bolt back and forth until it breaks loose. The key is to grind the end of the bit perfectly flat so it cuts not wedges into the drilled hole and if you slightly counter bore the drilled hole just enough to keep the bit centered while tapping it into smaller hole it works like a charm. Plus the tapping helps to break the threads loose.

 

I have even reused allen head bolts that have rounded out by tapping oversized Torx bits into the allen hole turning the screw into a torx screw.

Edited September 4, 2014 by saddlebum

I replaced carbs. sending parts out to member. bike runs on all 4 just have to set carbs. tossed old carb bodys in trash kept all good parts. thanks for all ideas. there comes a time when time is more valuable some place else.

Left hand drill bits are good if things get to moving easily but you cannot wiggle back and forth on a stubborn screw or bolt with them. very important when trying to loosen something up. Also very hard to remove if they break in the hole because you cannot drill them out. At work I have seen many techs get in trouble that way.

 

Easy outs I no longer own. I discovered many years ago when I was stuck with no easy out but happen to have a set of torx bits on hand that torx bits out perform easy outs in many ways. You can drive one into a drilled hole (slightly smaller than the Torx bit) remove it heat and quickly cool a seized bolt to help break it loose. then drive it back into the pre-made splines and wiggle the offending bolt back and forth until it breaks loose. The key is to grind the end of the bit perfectly flat so it cuts not wedges into the drilled hole and if you slightly counter bore the drilled hole just enough to keep the bit centered while tapping it into smaller hole it works like a charm. Plus the tapping helps to break the threads loose.

 

I have even reused allen head bolts that have rounded out by tapping oversized Torx bits into the allen hole turning the screw into a torx screw.

 

You're right the torx bit idea does work, but i've gone in too far and drilled through. I got the head out but I need to get the rest out. Any ideas on how to get the rest out of there?

You're right the torx bit idea does work, but i've gone in too far and drilled through. I got the head out but I need to get the rest out. Any ideas on how to get the rest out of there?

You can try using a drill bit the same size as the threaded hole and drill into the screw just enough to create dimple in the end of it. Then switch to a drill bit smaller than than the screw and drill a hole to drive a small long reach torx bit into ( the dimple drilled by the first bit should help to keep the second bit centered. Fill the hole with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple days. adding penetrating oil as needed. After a couple days drive in the small torx bit and gently start wiggling back and forth. Continue using penetrating oil and wiggling until it comes loose. I stress gently as you are now using a very small bit which can easily break. Once it starts to move keep working back and forth backing out a little more each time. remember not to use too much force even when it does start to move. Patience is key here.

You can try using a drill bit the same size as the threaded hole and drill into the screw just enough to create dimple in the end of it. Then switch to a drill bit smaller than than the screw and drill a hole to drive a small long reach torx bit into ( the dimple drilled by the first bit should help to keep the second bit centered. Fill the hole with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple days. adding penetrating oil as needed. After a couple days drive in the small torx bit and gently start wiggling back and forth. Continue using penetrating oil and wiggling until it comes loose. I stress gently as you are now using a very small bit which can easily break. Once it starts to move keep working back and forth backing out a little more each time. remember not to use too much force even when it does start to move. Patience is key here.

 

So we're talking teeny tiny torx bits! Does any one know what the size of the pilot screw stem is? I've got the head off and didn't bugger up the threads

I cannot remember exactly but I think it was the equivalent of about a number ten screw. for drilling purposes the final hole should be about 1/2 to 2/3 the diameter of the threaded hole give. Start with 1/2 and you can always creep up a little larger if need be to accommodate the torx bit

Edited March 29, 2015 by saddlebum