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I saw absolutely nothing in his resume that would make me think he has any qualifications, or even basic knowledge needed, to make a fuel additive. Furthermore, his statement that naphtha is a "pretty specific ingredient" shows a lack of research or understanding of that solvent - naphtha is mostly a generic term, and buying naphtha from two different sources generally gets you two different specific products with similar characteristics.

 

I was impressed, however, with his disclaimer at the very beginnig of the article:

"Fixing an engine is certainly a lot more expensive than original Sea Foam, so be careful if you decide to do any experimentation on your engine."

 

This at least makes him more honest, or at least a bit more knowledgeable, than some other people who have tried to recommend straight naphtha as a totally safe and functional equivalent of SeaFoam (it certainly is not the equivalent, and no information was ever presented to back up the claim it was safe for the engine).

Goose

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I saw absolutely nothing in his resume that would make me think he has any qualifications, or even basic knowledge needed, to make a fuel additive. Furthermore, his statement that naphtha is a "pretty specific ingredient" shows a lack of research or understanding of that solvent - naphtha is mostly a generic term, and buying naphtha from two different sources generally gets you two different specific products with similar characteristics. ===== Goose

 

I have a question along the line of Blubber. I read with interest the posts some time ago talking about Coleman camp fuel as an alternative to Seafoam. I asked Squidley back then whether it might be safe to use straight Coleman fuel, or whether a mixed concoction was suggested to reduce or avoid the risk of damage. I ended up buying a gallon of Coleman fuel but since then, I thought twice about using it. However, Seafoam is quite expensive here in Ontario and I do like to use it on some of my many motors such as my garden tractor and outboard motors, in addition to my VR. In order to reduce my total costs, what do you guys think about using a 50/50 mix of Seafoam and Coleman fuel in order to reduce the total cost. I will understand your response if say this is a stupid question.

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I have a question along the line of Blubber. I read with interest the posts some time ago talking about Coleman camp fuel as an alternative to Seafoam. I asked Squidley back then whether it might be safe to use straight Coleman fuel, or whether a mixed concoction was suggested to reduce or avoid the risk of damage. I ended up buying a gallon of Coleman fuel but since then, I thought twice about using it. However, Seafoam is quite expensive here in Ontario and I do like to use it on some of my many motors such as my garden tractor and outboard motors, in addition to my VR. In order to reduce my total costs, what do you guys think about using a 50/50 mix of Seafoam and Coleman fuel in order to reduce the total cost. I will understand your response if say this is a stupid question.

Since this looks like a real question instead of an attempt to stir up the issue, I'll give my thoughts.

 

I do not think it is a stupid question at all. I agree that SeaFoam is quite expensive, and I, too, would love to have a functional but cheaper alternative. Unfortunately, I do not know of any. I have no way of knowing if straight naphtha is safe for a modern engine and fuel system, nor what concentration to use if it is safe. Do I THINK is is safe? - Maybe; I might even say probably. The fact that it is close to 50% of what is in SeaFoam certainly indicates it is not inherently harmful to modern materials. But I do not know if there is something about the actual chemical combination of naphtha and some of the other ingredients that actually make it a good choice. This is especially true since we can have absolutely no way of knowing exactly which "naphtha" is used in SeaFoam, no do we have any real idea of what their "pale oil" actually is.

 

I would never recommend to my friends that they blindly experiment on an engine that means something to them if they are not fully prepared to pay for whatever results they might get. Personally, I would not put something like that in my bike - I am quite happy using the product that I know and trust - SeaFoam.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
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I agree SeaFoam is a great product. Don't know what you're paying for it, or how much you use it . But we use in our bikes, and our customers bikes. we sell it for $6.99 only use 1 can per bike per year . One can treats 8-25 gallons, Two times a season we run a tank thru them, then when we put them up for the winter, we use the last third of the can to a tank as fuel stabilizer. We have found this to work very well for the people who ride alot, if your bike sits more, you would have to treat a little more offen. So use this as an excuse to ride more. :clap2::clap2:

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Here in Ontario, a can of Safoam is almost double your cost. I would use quite a bit of it if it was not so expensive as I have quite a few (too many) toys including snowmobiles and boats that don't get regular use. Also, on my recent Venture West where I rode about 13,000 km over 5 weeks, I did a Seafoam treatment afer reading a post about carb problems related to ethanol, and it seamed to help.

 

 

I agree SeaFoam is a great product. Don't know what you're paying for it, or how much you use it . But we use in our bikes, and our customers bikes. we sell it for $6.99 only use 1 can per bike per year . One can treats 8-25 gallons, Two times a season we run a tank thru them, then when we put them up for the winter, we use the last third of the can to a tank as fuel stabilizer. We have found this to work very well for the people who ride alot, if your bike sits more, you would have to treat a little more offen. So use this as an excuse to ride more. :clap2::clap2:
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For them that run SeaFoam all the time. Make your own and save a bunch of money. :178:

 

http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/index.html

 

I read this a long time ago somewhere. Interesting, but I will not try this in my bike.

 

Shucks, I am having a hard enough time just being able to afford enough gas to ride a little. I'll buy the SeaFoam on sale every time I am able and keep it for/in the bike tank. I buy Stabill for the rest of the small engines.

 

Some people say that (the other stuff) is OK, B-12 Chemtool. I do not know about this either. I ask the question one time on here about the other $2.89 a can stuff at Wally -World, and most really would rather just stay with what works. You are right, SeaFoam is kind a high now a days, just like everything else.

 

I took my little boy (Isaiah) to Karate class this evening and my wife wanted me to stop at the small town (Olive Hill,Ky) grocery IGA. I said why, she remarked that she wanted me to see just what the store shelves look like recently and why she has pretty much stopped grocery shopping there. It was sad to see the shelves empty in a lot of places. They are not restocking and going out of business, as some other stores already have, A gallon of orange juice was $4.99, a gallon of milk $3.59, a box of Little Debby cakes was &1.79 and there smaller than they used to be.

 

Seriously friends, we are in for some tough times I feel. A small Fishers brand ham, that looked like a roll of bologna was $31.00 ........ I told my wife that we are going to have to stock up the freezer with more deer meat this year, rather than giving a lot of it away. I am going to have to spend more time hunting and less time riding.

 

Fuzzy :mo money:

Edited by FuzzyRSTD
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Since this looks like a real question instead of an attempt to stir up the issue, I'll give my thoughts.

Goose

 

 

I have no ulterior motive to "stir the Pot" I wanted to know what others thought about this post and others they have read.

 

You all have a nice day.

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:innocent-emoticon:

Here in Ontario, a can of Safoam is almost double your cost. I would use quite a bit of it if it was not so expensive as I have quite a few (too many) toys including snowmobiles and boats that don't get regular use. Also, on my recent Venture West where I rode about 13,000 km over 5 weeks, I did a Seafoam treatment afer reading a post about carb problems related to ethanol, and it seamed to help.

Wow, I wonder what the penalty for bootlegging seafoam across the border is.

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Now I may be all wet,,, but reading between the lines a little, and taking some of the info from here and there throughout his study, it seems to me that if you just use ordinary diesel fuel as an additive to your gasoline, you have pretty much accomplished what we mostly expect from Seafoam,,,, cleaning and lubrication. Diesel does both. Now naphtha might make the diesel a little more penetrating but then the gas in the tank will have a function there as well. The alcohol may have some cleaning properties, but after it's mixed with gas, how effective is it? Transmission fluid does a good job of cleaning, but is it better than diesel. All this makes me think, just pour some diesel in that tank and it should do the job and not do any harm.

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I kind of like the notion that there are secret elixirs that can't be easily deconstructed. If it was cheaper to buy people wouldn't be so fanatical about it.

 

By the way, seafoam is probably just mayonnaise and Russian dressing, or whatever the secret sauce was in Fast Times at Ridgemont High.

 

:witch_brew:

 

t

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I've used B-12 Chemtool, and it works just as well as Seafoam and only cost $2.89 last week at Wally World. But when I can find Seafoam on sale, like it was at Advance Auto Parts last month for $5.99 a can, I'll stock up on a few just to have around.

 

I also ran 93 octane in my tank on my 320 mile return home from NC last week, and the bike ran great!

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I've used B-12 Chemtool, and it works just as well as Seafoam and only cost $2.89 last week at Wally World. But when I can find Seafoam on sale, like it was at Advance Auto Parts last month for $5.99 a can, I'll stock up on a few just to have around.

 

I also ran 93 octane in my tank on my 320 mile return home from NC last week, and the bike ran great!

 

The 93 Octane shouldn't have made a difference :D

 

Maybe your ignition is a little too far advanced. The higher octanes actually have less energy in them, not more, they just burn more easily which they need to do because of higher compression ratios.

 

Lots of variables that could affect this.

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