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Real Problems Now- Antifreeze-


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I posted yesterday about a fuel drip from my carbs. Today I went out to run the bike and possibly check out the fuel leak. The bike was running for a couple of minutes when all of a sudden I am getting antifreeze coming from everywhere. It is dripping from the upper and lower hoses as well as the petcock and from behind some of the covers as well as the breather assembly under the carbs. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

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If it is quite cold and your bike is old (you don't say what bike or age), then this might simply be old hard rubber and shrinking metal parts form the temps. If that is the case, there is probably nothing to worry about. It does seem a bit strange for multiple places to start leaking at the same time, but I'd just tighten up the clamps a bit and see how it goes (especially when it is a little warmer). If the bike was up to temp before it started to leak (which would build up some pressure), then maybe the thermostat is not opening soon enough? :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

 

BTW - the warmer the bike parts are before you tighten the clamps, the better. That would make the rubber a little more pliable and make it easier to stop the leaks. If the leaks are quite slow, I'd ride for at least 10 miles before I started to tighten things.

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What goose is saying is good advice, and for anyone wanting to know Antifreeze testers are cheep and testing anyone can do just remove the solo seat and pop the cap. The Ideal Antifreeze mix is -20 to -25 that will give you good boil over protection and the cooling system will not freeze solid even at -40. it will look like slush floating in a green syrup.

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Thanks for the reply"s. The bike is a 1996 Royal Star Tour Classic.The weather is about 65 degrees F so it isn't the cold temps. It could be the thermostat. Would a bad thermostat cause such a boil over that it would come out of all those places. How about a bad radiator cap? Would that cause these symptoms? The bike starts right up cold and runs for a few minutes before the leaking begins. I am thinking that this is right about the time the thermostat should be opening.

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I haven't actually looked at the coolant flow diagram on these engines, so I am only making some reasonable assumptions (I hope) in developing this hypothesis:

 

Any cooling system will develop internal pressure as the temperature of the coolant rises. This is not a "boil over," just normal operation. That increased pressure will be there no matter what the thermostat does. I only suggested the thermostat as a slight possibility because it seems the water pump would be creating some back pressure on the system behind the thermostat - that wouldn't be much, but I was trying to come up with something that might explain multiple joint's leaking at the same time. Once the thermostat opens, the pressure would equalize throughout the system.

 

The radiator cap DOES control how high the pressure will get as the coolant heats up. When it reaches the rated level, the cap allows the fluid to escape into the overflow tank until the pressure comes down a little. Theoretically, that sounds like it could be the cause of your multiple leaks, but I really doubt it. Still, it is worth a try if you cannot find another reason. Any decent shop should have the necessary tool to check the cap against the rated release pressure.

 

If your fan is not coming on before the leaks start, you are not building up a lot of pressure in the cooling system. Normal coolant temps are 210 degrees on the RSV, and it takes a good 10 miles or more to get it up that high on my 05. Running for "a few minutes" would never allow the coolant to reach full operating temperature (assuming your "few minutes" is the same as mine), let alone overheat the engine to the point of significant excess pressure under a bad radiator cap, so I still just suspect typical aging on the rubber hoses that need the clamps tightened. Your temps may not be very low right now, but if you had a really cold snap anytime this winter, maybe that was enough to cause the old joints between the rubber hoses and metal nipples to loosen and set up the leaks for the next time the bike was warmed up? Hope any of that helps,

Goose

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Thanks again. I just wanted to add that I rode the bike yesterday for about 20 miles and had no problems related to the coolant. I stopped riding when I noticed a gas leak coming from what I believe are the screws that open and close the carb drains.

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sounds like just One fairly good leak, and the water pump is pumping it out.

 

Maby one hose, cracked open, of one Clamp let loose.

 

Hose it off, let it dry, then start up and try to locate where it starts comeing from.

 

should not be to hard to spot the leak if its that big.

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I took off the radiator and removed the thermostat to check it today. The thermostat opened as it should so I put everything back together and started up the bike. I let it run for about 20 minutes and no leaks. I don't know why it leaked to begin with and I don't know why it isn't leaking anymore but I am very relieved. Now I can go back to trying to cure my carburetor leaks. Carburetors are leaking out of the drain screws but I am having trouble trying to figure out what type of screw heads they are. Can't seem to find the proper screw driver to reach in there and I am afraid I might strip the heads. Any ideas? Thanks

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The more i mess with this leak the more i am seeing. I was able to get a screw driver on the drain screws and let the carbs drain. I restarted the bike and watched. It seems to me that the fuel is now leaking from the air vent hose on the drivers side left. It is coming out at quite a clip.

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The more i mess with this leak the more i am seeing. I was able to get a screw driver on the drain screws and let the carbs drain. I restarted the bike and watched. It seems to me that the fuel is now leaking from the air vent hose on the drivers side left. It is coming out at quite a clip.

 

I've never had these carbs apart but that sounds like a float needle valve is stuck open.

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Are you sure you are not confuseing the Air Vent Hose, with the drain hose.

 

The Air vent runs over to back and down toward bottom of bike.

If the Float valve is stuck open, the fuel will run out that hose.

 

The Small size hose is the Drain. I have never completly removed the Drain Screw, but it might have a " Seat " or " Seal " that might not be sealing.

 

On the 1st gens, is common for the Float valve to Stick Open, the fuel will pump out the air vent, when the fuel pump is running.

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I believe it is the air vent hose. It is a larger hose (1 on each side of the bike) and it clips to a holder below the carbs right above the coolant breather. I was just running the bike and it leaked pretty fast when leaning on its stand. When I propped the bike up so it was upright it leaked much slower and once again seemed to be near the drain screws. The bike was idling when the coolant fan came on. When the fan engaged the RPM's increased and the leak intensified to where it seemed to be coming from the vent hose again. I am getting to the point of giving up. I guess I'll have to take it to the Yamaha shop. Something I cannot afford to do now so the bike may have may have to sit. Drats!!

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