Stator or RR working or not?

Back from 10 days in WV. Pulled in the garage and the bike would not restart, battery died after 6 year.

New battery installed last week did not think about checking stator since the battery was 6 years old

12.9 Volts showing with battery in state.

Friday Rode 3 hours while pulling trailer and made two stops. Had to roll off to get started on the second stop made it another 30 miles and bike just died at a red light. Got pulled off to the side and had a Auto Parts store give the battery a charge. While I pulled the fuses out for the headlight and all other accessory's that I have. Long story but made it back to the house. Now trying to find out what happened and what is wrong.

HOW TO CHECK THE STATOR AND RR?

Looking for pictures and example of testing Stator & RR!

1. Testing the Coil Resistance

a. OHM Meter Settings choices

1. 20M

2. 2M

3. 200K

4. 20K

5. 2K

6. 200

NOT SURE WHAT IS THE CORRECT SETTING CHOICES FOR EACH TEST!! HELP PLEASE

RR plug has five wires in it

Black Ground

Red Positive

(3) White Stator leads

Used the 200 setting and tested 1 to 2 2 to 3 & 1 to 3 for Coil resistance

result 0.52 at all three test. Note the leads touching each other had a 0.2 therefore I assume that .052 minus 0.2 was ok to give me a reading of 0.32

Now

Not sure how to test the short to ground on the plug that connects to RR.

I set the ohms on 200K and put black lead on the engine ground and then used the red lead on each of the three white stator pins on the connector at RR.

Question what is described as a reading Open (OL) or Very High resistance, what is this reading on the meter.

2. Testing the AC Voltage output of the stator?

At idle rpm reading on all three post 24.2, 22.9, & 24.6

At higher rpm not sure the exact rpm but should be close to 3500

very different readings between the three post 54.6, 63.8, 74.9

thought that I should have a even increase on all three not such a difference!

Would this be an indication that at rpm am not charging properly?

Before you do any testing pull the plug off the R/R and look into it, especially the black and red leads on each end. If you see any burn/scorch marks or melted plastic chances are its the plug thats bad. The R/R may also need to be replaced but the plug is known to fry up a little bit making a poor connection.

Did you find the large " White " Plug, between Stator, and R/R unit ?

Did you open that plug and check for burnt or damaged Pins ???

Have you checked the Ends of Both, battery cables, for Corrision ??? Remove th

black one from engine case, Clean it !!

Thats your main Ground return to the battery for everything !!

Did you open the ---Main fuse holder,---- and check for loose Screws ? ( Yes, it does have two small screws, and the element gets corroded )

Dito: the R/R output plug !! check that.

After you clean the White Plug, Re-Install it. Run Engine, and re-take the AC readings, by sticking the meter lead into ends of the white plug.

Read, the AC to Ground.

Do you have a Ground Lead, from Neg Bat Stud, to ground. Its a good idea to fabricate a cable useing #10 wire, and run to frame near the battery.

I think this covers everything you asked, this is what i did to figure mine out.

Specs:

Output: 14 Volts / 300 Watts / @ 5000 rpm

Stator Coil Resistance: 0.279 ~ 0.341 Ohm @ 68º F

Stator AC Voltage Output: 100+ VAC* @ 4000 rpm

Specs form a good system.

DC voltage up to 20V

AC Voltage up to 100+V

A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts. If battery voltage is low charge it before testing the system, a weak or bad could cause false test results. Replace the battery if it will not come to a full charge from a battery charger.

start engine, turn off all electrical accessories measure charging voltage as rpm's are increased to 5000 rpm. Voltage should be 13.5 ~ 14.5 volts. Intermittent charging system problems could be caused by a bad connection.

If voltage is below 13.5 volts, it could be poor connections, bad wiring, faulty stator, and/or a faulty RR. Higher than 14.5 volts it's probably a bad RR and/or bad connection. Before digging into stator and rr check all connections, battery cables, RR connector, stator connector, solenoid connectors, and main fuse connection.

Stator Test

Engine and ignition off. Test at the RR connector, you get ot the RR connector by removing the two 10mm mounting bolts and lowering the RR. I had to remove the lower fairing to get to it disconnect the connector and inspect the terminal pins for tightness, corrosion, or damage.

Regulator/Rectifier location.

Check for battery voltage between connector terminals marked Bat+ and Gnd-.

Check the stator coil resistance by measuring at the three stator terminals of the connector. Set the meter to the lowest ohms scale and measure between pins 1~2, then pins 1~3, and finally between pins 2~3. All readings should be around .3 ohms. Some meters may not read accurately at this setting so don’t be too worried if you don’t get exactly .3 ohms. Next, set the meter to a higher ohms scale (>100 ohms), connect one meter lead to a good engine ground and use the other lead to test each stator terminal for a short to ground. All should read open (OL).

Check the AC output of the stator. Set your meter to read AC on the 100+ scale. Start the engine and read each pair of terminals in the same order as you did above, 1~2, 1~3, 2~3. At idele you should get 20~25 volts AC on each pair. Increase RPMS to 4000 RPM and read voltage on each pair again. Voltage @ 4000 RPM should be around 100~110 volts AC. All pairs should read equal voltages. If one pair reads much less than the others, or if all read smuch lower voltage than specified, the stator may be defective or there may be a connection problem at the stator connector where it connects to the main wiring harness. If you get questionable readings, you’ll need to retest at the stator connector located behind the side/center covers below the rider’s seat.

 

HOW TO CHECK THE STATOR AND RR?

 

Looking for pictures and example of testing Stator & RR!

 

1. Testing the Coil Resistance

a. OHM Meter Settings choices

1. 20M

2. 2M

3. 200K

4. 20K

5. 2K

6. 200

NOT SURE WHAT IS THE CORRECT SETTING CHOICES FOR EACH TEST!! HELP PLEASE

RR plug has five wires in it

Black Ground

Red Positive

(3) White Stator leads

 

Used the 200 setting and tested 1 to 2 2 to 3 & 1 to 3 for Coil resistance

result 0.52 at all three test. Note the leads touching each other had a 0.2 therefore I assume that .052 minus 0.2 was ok to give me a reading of 0.32

That is correct

Now

Not sure how to test the short to ground on the plug that connects to RR.

I set the ohms on 200K and put black lead on the engine ground and then used the red lead on each of the three white stator pins on the connector at RR.

 

Question what is described as a reading Open (OL) or Very High resistance, what is this reading on the meter.

You were testing to make sure that the stator coils were not shorted to ground. It should read OL to show that there is no electrical connection between the points your meter leads are on.

2. Testing the AC Voltage output of the stator?

At idle rpm reading on all three post 24.2, 22.9, & 24.6

 

At higher rpm not sure the exact rpm but should be close to 3500

very different readings between the three post 54.6, 63.8, 74.9

thought that I should have a even increase on all three not such a difference!

Would this be an indication that at rpm am not charging properly?

If you are not using a tach to see what RPM you are at when measuring, you could easily get the differences you see.

From what I've seen so far, it looks like your stator is good.

I would be checking all of the connections & the R/R.

Whew!!! That's a bunch of testing to find why it's not charging. Being a lazy sort, and since late model rectifiers are fairly cheap on eBay, I'd start with R&Ring it first, and checking the plugs while your at it. If it doesn't take care of the problem it's the stator. BTW if you'd have picked up an AGM battery you would have probably made it back to the barn.

I ran 2.5 days from Sacramento Ca to Thermopolis Wy pulling a trailer with a DEKA before killng it. The wet cell I bought to get me to Cody left me stranded the next day outside of Cody on the way back from a day ride without the trailer..... It turned out to be the rectifier showing volts but not putting out amps. Changed the Rec and no more problems.

Looks like with all the testing and wire connections all clean and corrosion free. The stator is just not sending the proper AC current to the RR. Checked the AC current at both the large black plug at the RR & The White Stator plug both gave me a AC current reading well below Spec.

Just for triple check I had another buddy drop his 2005 RSV over and compare readings and the even pulled his RR and replaced it on mine. No better results.

Thanks for all the input, However no one had pictures of the replacement?

1. What are the replacement options Stator for a 2004 RSV

a. Part numbers would be appreciated.

b. Price also?

2. If I go with a HO Stator will I need to replace the RR also. All the reading on this just got down right confussing.

Help with info plese.

Thanks again

I bought mine from Buckeye Perfomance, he gives a discount to us and to the Ventures. It is a high output and is a little pricey but mine has been good for a year now. You should also replace the regulator.

Hi Output Stator http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p24.htm comes with gaskets. $274 before discount.

Rick's Stator $160 Regulator $80

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/results

This is the one J&P, Dennis Kirk and others carry.

2nd post in thread linked below details how to check diodes in R/R.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70672

Not much else that can be checked in R/R.

Gary

What gaskets are needed when replacing the stator on 2004 RSV?

Below is what I found so far!

4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket Crankcase Cover 1 $11.43

4XY-81410-02-00 Stator Assy $216.35

4XY-81960-00-00 Rectifier/Regulator $70.25

http://www.oemcycle.com

or I found at the same place

4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket Crankcase Cover 1 $11.43

21-412H Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator $127.95

10-413 Ricks Motorsport Electric Rectifier/Regulator $57.22

or even better price but not sure of service

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com

21-412H Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator $119.31

10-413 Ricks Motorsport Electric Rectifier/Regulator $61.26

or then there is the

Buckeye Performance

http://www.buckeyeperformance.com

BP426-426-HOSTAT high output stator with (2) gaskets $274.00

Heavy Duty Rectifier $125.00

Looks like the OEM Yamaha parts since I got just over 98,000 miles out of the original.

or possible the Ricks Motorsport Electric parts from oemcycle.com, everbody that has used either needs to pipe in.

Thanks

Actually I'm thinking all you need is the R/R from what you described. As long as the 3 AC voltages are within 1% or 2% they are probably OK. Measure them with the R/R disconnected...

After keeping the RPM's up above 5000rpm I could not get the AC Voltage above 72 or 74.

I compared that too my buddy's and his was above 100. I also took his rectifier/regulator off and put on mine. Still not more than 13.3

Want input from previous purchases that people made.

OK if you insist, then go with Rick's stator but be warned, higher output stators = higher heat generation. This leads to shorter life, especially down south where you have a lot of heat to begin with. I used Buckeye on mine with no problems so far but it's only been in service 1 1/2 years...

I went with the Buckeye Performance HO stator about 3 years or more ago. Flawless except the failure of the OEM R/R and then an aftermarket one (totally my fault on that one) then back to an OEM R/R again.

About a year ago I changed to the Shindengen Mosfet R/R. Perfect combo in my book. Rock steady charge rate at 14.3. Been running the DEKA AGM about 5 years during all this. Always have power on hand.

I went with the Buckeye Performance HO stator about 3 years or more ago. Flawless except the failure of the OEM R/R and then an aftermarket one (totally my fault on that one) then back to an OEM R/R again.

 

About a year ago I changed to the Shindengen Mosfet R/R. Perfect combo in my book. Rock steady charge rate at 14.3. Been running the DEKA AGM about 5 years during all this. Always have power on hand.

How is the output of the Buckeye part when it comes to powering a "few" extra lights and stereos,and amplifiers, and coffee makers, and satellite TV and stuff?

How is the output of the Buckeye part when it comes to powering a "few" extra lights and stereos,and amplifiers, and coffee makers, and satellite TV and stuff?

As far as that....... I can't say it's had any problem keeping up. But then again the only real extra draw is the two 35.w, 4.5" driving lights that are on whenever the bike is running.

The reason I went as far as I did with changing my system was I using the bike 7 days a week running a service route doing a lot of stops each day. Sometimes as many as 20 or more starts. That's a lot of battery drain over a days time with short runs between each one.

I had my side cover off a year ago and the Buckeye showed no sign being overheated. Still looked like new.

Now Cougar has a similiar set up on his trike and I'm sure he's put his to the test. I know he kept rattling on about the microwave last year.

As far as that....... I can't say it's had any problem keeping up. But then again the only real extra draw is the two 35.w, 4.5" driving lights that are on whenever the bike is running.

 

The reason I went as far as I did with changing my system was I using the bike 7 days a week running a service route doing a lot of stops each day. Sometimes as many as 20 or more starts. That's a lot of battery drain over a days time with short runs between each one.

 

I had my side cover off a year ago and the Buckeye showed no sign being overheated. Still looked like new.

 

Now Cougar has a similiar set up on his trike and I'm sure he's put his to the test. I know he kept rattling on about the microwave last year.

My real world wonder is my 2 30 watt HID lamps (no problem there so far) plus the 50 watt x 4 channel Clarion amp that mysteriously has appeared in my shed. I read about it here actually and it was so small and matched my Clarion head unit so I guess wishful thinking and internet access just "poofed" it here. Haven't left it hooked up yet due to electrical load concern.

I don't seem to have any charging system issues at least according to the stock dashboard gauge. Guess I'll just have to hook it up and try it to see if I have battery drain.

Charging system upgrade got tabled due to the finding of a Marlin 1894 (1979 so pre Remington) in .44 Magnum. My (Remlin) 1894 in .357 Magnum was lonely. But no more guns! Unless I find a pre Remington model 336 in .35 Remington,,,,,,,

Don't think you'll have any problem there. The only issue would be the memory from the radio as a parasitic drain when parked and that should be minor.

The dash voltmeter is shall we say..... not dead accurate.

I run a digital in my dash direct from battery so I can see excatly what I have at any time. Needless to say, it don't agree with the dash gauge.

Saved my bacon a few times when problems popped up.

Best test would be using a multimeter between battery posts before and after hooking the new radio up and see what the difference is.

Got the Stator & Regulator ordered should have on Wed.

Thanks Monty for the info on part numbers.

I got the bike apart! Cleaned the areas that never see daylight! Thought I kept the bike clean but the area behind Covers / Pipes / Foot Pegs / Shift Lever and all had a build up of crud. Guess over 97,000 miles it gets that way.

Anyway I will try and get some pictures up loaded showing what has been done and found.

Stator was burnt/bad

White Plug down by the fuel filter was in good condition at the connections, However after cleaning the area and really inspecting the plug on the Harness side of the plug one of the wires was burnt. Guess I will do away with this plug and hard wire new stator.

New regulator just to go with the new stator.

New Gaskets

Wondering what type of Gasket sealer I should use. Seems that the original had a small amount. Never liked using it on my Chevy 350 or 396 rebuilds!

Hopefully I will have it back together so I can be over at Vogel / Tail of the Dragon by Friday A.M.

Thanks for all the comments and advise.

Cowboy, please let us know if the new stator makes everything all good. I am experiencing almost the exact symptoms as you. Not charging properly and the only tests out of spec are my AC readings which seem low. But because I am getting 'equal' low readings, I am being told by others the stator is likely good.

FWIW, I currently have the buckeyeperformance stator and it is about 6 years old and has about 50k miles on it.. so if it is bad.. it did pretty well. I am leaning towards a Ricks Motorsports stator from Dennis Kirk due to major cost difference.

BTW, I was on The Dragon Friday (yesterday) for a 300 mile test ride. Didn't see any other Ventures. Hope you were able to get out!

Thanks.

Finally got the things back together on Wed. night and test ride on Thur. All was good.

Charging at idle is 13.1 & at a higher rpm 14.6

Friday afternoon the wife and I rode over to Vogel to see everyone there. Great to see that Donations for Saint Jude was so strong even with the low turn out and the iffy weather. Cudo's to Louis and all involved.

Checked the charging and battery voltage several times and had no drainage on battery and the voltage held at the 13.1 at idle & 14.6 at higher rpm.

Bottom line Stator was bad in three coils.

Replaced the following since bike has 97,000 miles on it.

oemcycle.com

address 905 Mulberry St. Loudon, Tennessee 37774 (888)-736-2519

1. Ricks Motorsport Electric Stator HO Yamaha 21-412H $124.86

2. Ricks Motorsport Electric Regulator Yamaha 10-413 $ 57.22

Then due to the time for shipping I ordered the gaskets from local Yamaha, however if you can wait oemcycle.com can provide. I was pressed for time since I wanted to make a showing at Vogel.

3. 4NK-15451-00-00 Gasket CRCS Cover $ 11.43

4. 3JP-15461-01-00 Gasket CRCS Cover 2 $ 3.33

5. 90430-06014-00 Crush Washer Gasket $ 2.24

Hard to beat that price or value!

Note: I did end up cutting the white plug out of the wiring harness, seems that after I had cleaned the area really well and did another inspection the back side of white plug wiring needed attention. Best fix was to soldier and shrink wrap the wires. Make sure you have the wires ran correctly before soldiering! Due to the wire gauge being different I found it rather difficult, however after thought would have been to use a splice connector with soldier. Made sure to shrink wrap each wire then another wrap of electrical tape then a larger shrink wrap over all three wires. Results look like a new harness.

Any questions feel free to call! 706-635-1580