I don't think my 84 makes a good bobber

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j169/coffeyR6/Mobile%20Uploads/PHOTO_20161016_205054.jpg

I have not touched the bike in well over a year due to a dead battery. A few days ago, I purchased a new battery and went to start the bike. I tried and tried and tried, then decided it may need some new gas to mix with that old junk. Stabil is not a miracle worker.

So I dismount Genesis (the bike) and realize I am standing in a pool of gas. I turn the key on and try and start it a few more times to see where the gas is coming from. It appears to be below the tank. While I am ripping this bike apart, I notice that it is a very simple bike to tear down and everything makes sense about it. It was an enjoyable experience.

After tearing it down i realize that it is just pouring gas out the overflow tubes because my carbs are dirtier than current political campaigns. So after I put most of a can of carb cleaner in the carbs and in my eye (don't do that; it hurts), I poured some seafoam down there for the night and will get it some fresh gas in the AM and she will be back on the road.

I also had to buy a new battery for my 01 today. Who would have thought my piece of junk 87 Suburban would be my reliable vehicle.

Back to my main point though, this bike does not make an easy chop or Bob.

I don't know but just looking. take off the front fairing, but the center covers back on adjust the handle bars down and low. A WestCoast Chopper's headlight and bracket. add a springer seat or maybe a narrow king/queen seat easy rider style and a Rear fender from WCC, you just might have something. Imagine a GEN1 about 200 LBS lighter especially on the front end!!!!!!

Well your 87 'burb should be more reliable, it is the newer one after all.

I have seen a few 1st gens chopped, bobbed, and even ratted.

"Back to my main point though, this bike does not make an easy chop or Bob."

Might not be easy, but once you have taken off all the unnecessary stuff the bike is faster and handles great. The center of gravity is very low which makes it feel much lighter than it really is. I even moved the battery down below the transmission to help keep the weight positioned low.

zag

VERY MODIFIED!!! Bout says it!!

"Back to my main point though, this bike does not make an easy chop or Bob."

 

Might not be easy, but once you have taken off all the unnecessary stuff the bike is faster and handles great. The center of gravity is very low which makes it feel much lighter than it really is. I even moved the battery down below the transmission to help keep the weight positioned low.

zag

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=107674

That's cool I like that one off.

The 84 is not running right. she will start and run with the choke wide open, but will die when I close the choke. I also cannot apply the throttle at all with out the bike dying.

I am going to pull the air box tomorrow and hit it with another can of carb cleaner and the air compressor. If you have any other tips or tricks, please send them this way.

Go to Wallly World grab a can of Berry Man's Chem Tech. Dump it in with 1/4 tank or so and run it hard til you have to fill up.

I can't give it any throttle right now. I think another carb cleaning/blow out will help. then I will get pick up some chem tech and abuse the bike mercilessly. Don't worry she enjoys the abuse, what she doesn't like is being neglected.

Heyyyyyy,, hi Sonshine = WELCOME HOME and back to being a grease monkey ...

if I were out there helping you like I should be this is what we would probably do (if you allowed such nonsense:smile5:).

Put Genesis up on the center stand. Pull the side diaphram covers and slip the slides out of here - check the diaphrams for pin holes and repair em with YamaBond #5 if any holes were found and set em to the side. Pull the drain hoses out of there holders up on the carbs. Take an animal syringe (Ag stores sell them here - if you cant find one let me know and I can send you one of mine:thumbsup2:) and slide the end of it into a drain hose - open the drain and suck the fuel out of the carb - do all carbs. Now tap on each carb body to assist in making sure the floats have fallen. Now pull the syringe pusher and fill syringe with straight Berryman's (have tested Seafoam for this and it will not work = use berrymans). Watch inside the slide opening as you push the Berrymans into the carb thru the drain - you want the cleaner to just start to flow out of the orvice where the metering rod on the bottom of the slide enters into its orfice (main jet). When it flows - close the drain and go to next carb. After leaving the carbs set with Berrymans inside for 1/2 hour - starting with carb you began with (FIFO = first in first out) - open the drain, pull the fluid out with the syringe and then force it back in causing as much agitation as possible - do this for a minute or two and then suck the juice out and squirt it back into its can. Do all carbs. Now fill the syringe with normal aerosol carb cleaner and refill carbs one at a time with carb that stuff - cheap stuff from auto store is fine. Make sure you fill to flow thru main jet again. Let it set for 1/2 hour, repeat with the agitate and remove cleaner.

Follow that overflow hose on the backbone of the bike and figure out which carb/carbs it is attached to.. OEM they are laid in the bracket on the backbone in order,, if memory serves me correctly it was 1st one on the left goes to the #2 carb = front carb on left, 2nd goes to #1 = rear on left, 3rd to front right and 4th to goes to rear on right - I think.. Leave the drains open on the carbs thru the overflow hoses that were overflowing on your garage floor. Close the other drains. Turn the key on and activate the fuel pump on and off with the kill switch until you get good flow out of the drains on the effected carbs. Allow the drains to flow for a minute or so off the pump (catch gas in a jar) with hope of dislodging anything in the float valve(s) of affected carbs. Close the drains and see if it will pump up to pressure now with out draining out of the overflows. If so, pull the fuel in the carbs out with a cleaned syringe - squirt the gas from the syringe into a small glass jar from each carb - let it sit for a minute or two and check the bottom of the jars for water in the fuel and for debris.. If your seeing debris = refill carbs and check again.. Dont try to start it till you have clean fuel in jars..

I have resurrected carbs doing this after long term storage successfully but have also ended up having to remove carbs and clean them the correct way a number of times too Tech Sargent Coffey.. It just all depends on how bad they were initially..

Hope this helps..

By the way,, I personally think these ol 1st Gens make AWESOME Chops or even Bobbers.. Put me at the front of the line when it comes to givin Zags Chop a HUGE :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:.... ,, if it weren't for my absolute LOVE for 2 up touring with Tip on the back,,, your ol buddy would GLADLY be seen roaming the country on a Chopped Venture JUST LIKE THAT!

PS, PS = for long term storage when I am definitely not going to be able to start/run my scoot occasionally = I am one who likes to open the drains on the carbs and let em sit dry - only way of successfully storing untouched that I have discovered...

I found part of my problem. All of my diaphragms have small holes or tears in them. I cleaned well with the mixture screws still in. I am going to order 4 new diaphragms and then pull all the mixture screws out when I am installing the new diaphragms.

I also got an oil filter, oil, plugs, and rear end oil. She should be good to before the end of October.

I also drained the bowls, but I did not tend to the floats yet. I was racing daylight. I will track down a syringe and unstick the floats when I am replacing the diaphragms too.

When I tried to give the bike some throttle, the pistons spazed out instead of opening smoothly. I am guessing the tears are to blame for that.

On the upside I got another call from someone interested in my 2001 RSV. That will keep me working diligently on my 84.

I am getting the new diaphragms from a seller on eBay that I found in another thread on this forum. Unfortunately, he does not have a buy it now option so I have to wait 3 days and 9 hours just for the auction to end. Oh well, tomorrow I will tear my carbs apart and give them a very thorough cleaning so I can just slap the new diaphragms in and ride when they get here.

Now we're cooking with hot possum grease Coff!!!

Ya got 3 days and 9 hours to do it right and rebuild those carbs brother = get er done!!!

As long as you got that sweetheart down it might not be a bad idea to pick up one of those cheapie cable lubers and lube up the throttle cables while your in there - might just save you from having to come home from the outback of the desert using a pair of pliers to operate the throttle:missingtooth:.. Been using these for years: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KiWAV-tool-twin-cable-luber-oiler-lubricator-lubricant-for-Harley-metric-/391167761335?hash=item5b136a5bb7:g:5kMAAOSwPcVVxQWt&vxp=mtr and they work great. Have found the best lube to be bicycle chain lube (lasts a longggg time on the cables). Just a thought.

Might not be a bad idea to also double check the condition of the air chamber = part number 33 shown here: http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042507f8700209bc788070/cylinder-head. It is located right below the TCI/coil pacs. Look carefully at the molded seams for disfiguring = can be an issue if it's pulling air from a bad spot. Also might not be a bad idea to carefully pull the leads on the TCI, clean the pins and dilectric the terminals.

All that and good carb cleaning should keep ya busy for 3 days and 9 hours AND should make good ol Genesis stand up and dance:big-grin-emoticon:

Godspeed Preacher!!!

Puc

Might not be a bad idea to also double check the condition of the air chamber = part number 33 shown here: http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042507f8700209bc788070/cylinder-head. It is located right below the TCI/coil pacs. Look carefully at the molded seams for disfiguring = can be an issue if it's pulling air from a bad spot. Also might not be a bad idea to carefully pull the leads on the TCI, clean the pins and dilectric the terminals.

All that and good carb cleaning should keep ya busy for 3 days and 9 hours AND should make good ol Genesis stand up and dance:big-grin-emoticon:

 

Godspeed Preacher!!!

Puc

Part 33 Um sir I seem to have lost mine! I took Marie's appendix out when I was chasing that darned miss in her that ended being the Spark Plug Cap. Too be honest she does seem to want to rear back on me. Not sure about the mileage thing cause still waiting to hear back about my Sync Guages. Too be totally honest I cant really tell any difference in the performance of the bike but just maybe; Just maybe a little bit more kick and a bit of a rumble.

Part 33 Um sir I seem to have lost mine! I took Marie's appendix out when I was chasing that darned miss in her that ended being the Spark Plug Cap. Too be honest she does seem to want to rear back on me. Not sure about the mileage thing cause still waiting to hear back about my Sync Guages. Too be totally honest I cant really tell any difference in the performance of the bike but just maybe; Just maybe a little bit more kick and a bit of a rumble.

Oh yea Snype,, I have heard of that "mod".. Seems like the groupies named the mod after someone.. I always call it the "Jake Mod" cause I cant never remember what it was actually called and I always like the term "Jake Brake" that is associated with Semi's.. Never did it to any of mine and always wondered how effective it was..

Hey Coff - if you find out that part number 33 air box thingy has a cracked seam or a hole in it - might not be a bad idea to ditch the thing like Snype did,, I forgot all about that option but have heard some pretty good outcomes by doing so..

THANKS SNYPE FOR POINTING THAT OUT!!

The Jason mod is from what I remember is exchanging lines and linking carbs all I simply did was remove the hose to the yics chamber and plugged the ports where the hoses went into engine now the inners I couldn't remember what someone did to never have to replace the caps. I just put rubber caps on and took the chamber out and put it in a box. Thought about leaving the two inner hoses and screwing bolt into hose and clamping it. But wasn't sure if that would work. But to get to inner hoses the carbs have to be removed to get into remove them and put the caps on. So if you ever need to replace the caps on the inside is a PITA!!!! I have read somewhere about the caps breaking I think the just ended putting bolts where the ports are. When I did mine I couldn't find the post.

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But yeah I tried linking my carbs but didn't like it.

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Got it to idle without the choke, and I can rev it up. When I went for a ride, it did some bad surging and erratic acceleration. I know a small part of that could be due to my diaphragms being full of holes and tears. I will play with the carb set up tomorrow and sync the carbs. See if I can't get her accelerating and running smoothly before the diaphragms arrive.

Spark plugs foul really quickly when you put cleaner in the fuel. You may need to change them once or twice as you work on it as it is burning all the funky old fuel that has the crud in it that the cleaner removed and put in the fuel.

Spark plugs foul really quickly when you put cleaner in the fuel. You may need to change them once or twice as you work on it as it is burning all the funky old fuel that has the crud in it that the cleaner removed and put in the fuel.

I just changed them before I took off for my test ride. I hope they did not foul backing out of my driveway. I will change them again if I cannot get the problem cleared up.

Once I get it running smoothly again I plan to do the oil, filter and plugs again after 1 or 2 tanks of gas.

I know a small part of that could be due to my diaphragms being full of holes and tears. I will play with the carb set up tomorrow and sync the carbs. See if I can't get her accelerating and running smoothly before the diaphragms arrive.

It has been my experience with both my Virago and my Venture that despite the initial smoking after adding Seafoam and running the engine for a while the plugs will clear up on their own. There really isn't anything serious that happens to the plugs. If they get fouled by excess crud released by the Seafoam all that needs to be done is to wire brush the electrodes and they will work just fine. Assuming the carbs are now adjusted and working properly the heat from combustion will burn off any minor fouling left over.

So did Genesis smooth out and get his responsiveness back after running a while Coff?

So did Genesis smooth out and get his responsiveness back after running a while Coff?

It did not. It continued to surge and seem like it was misfiring. My diaphragms will be in on Monday and then I will adjust the carbs and smooth her out.

Hey Coff,, here is an EXCELLENT article by another lop eared VR varmint named Marcarl you really find interesting pertaining to diaphram replacement. Every once in a while Carl actually does say something that makes since and this was one of those times

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?19271-Carb-Diaphram-Replacement