Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'pull'.
-
:mo money:I realize now that I paid nearly twice what I should have for this bike, but there's no turning back now. The clutch is finally right, and the brakes are finally right. Even got venturecruise working. If I had looked at E-bay b4 purchase, I could have added about another grand and had a real nice ride. Oh, well-It's only money:crying:. Anyhow, on to the next project. I noticed that the fork seals are leaking pretty good. Almost to the point of why bother to wash it b4 riding. When I pull it apart, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for? Also, anybody got any idea how bad I'll get burnt by the stealer on parts? By the way, had to go to advance auto parts and rent a vacuum pump to pull all the air out of hydro line for clutch. -
Been looking for a trailer hitch to tow bike long distances since girlfriend only last's 2-300 miles on back of bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180020455266&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1 How much trouble is it to tow my RSTD with the back tire down and front up? Do I have to pull drive shaft? Any info is appreciated since I'm remoldeling house money is tight. Ride safe and God Bless. Mike
-
I THINK this was written up by Squidley. Installation of the Battery Cable Upgrade As some of you have been patiently waiting for, here is the step by step instructions on how to install the Battery Cable upgrades on the 1st gen. I'm going to try my best to keep it in chronological order for less head aches. I will also mention that you might want to go out and purchase a magnetic tool tray to put all the screws and bolts into so none get lost. If you feel nervous on taking your bike apart this far I would suggest that as your disassembling it you take pictures with a digital camera to aid you in the reinstall. I have done this in the past and it's very helpful. Step 1: Remove the Faux tank cover by opening the fuel door and removing the lower retraining screw. Push forward and then lift up off the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.1.jpg Step 2: Disconnect the battery cables (both of them) and screw your retaining bolts back into the posts of the battery so they don't get lost. Pull the cables off to the side, as you will need some room to work around. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.2.jpg Step 3: You will need to remove the battery from it's tray, to do this you will have to un-strap it from the battery box. There is a rubber strap with metal rings that are in the fore and aft area of the box on the top. Pull the one in the front down to disengage it from it's hook point and then lift the entire fuse block off of the battery. You will need to pull the battery sensor wire (white with Red stripe) apart for the removal of the battery and remove the battery from the bike. Step 4: Next you will need to remover the upper fairing electronics on your left side the radio assy. and on the right the CLASS and CB. Pull them out and remove their cradles as you will also have to remove the top covers where the speakers are molded into. You will need to remove both upper pcs and disconnect all electronic leads so you have a clear area to work in. Remember also to pull the Headlight Adjusting Knob on the left side by pulling it strait back towards you. This will need to be off to facilitate removal of the speakers cover. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.3.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.5.jpg Step 5: There are 2 crescent shaped grill pieces on both sides of the steering head, the right one has the hazard switch in it. Pull the screws and remove both of these, disconnecting the hazard switch from the wire loom. Step 6: Now it's time to pull the battery box out you will need a 10 mm socket and ratchet with a 6" extension. There are 2 bolts in the bottom of the box that will probably be corroded; I would suggest you spray them down with penetrating oil before you attempt to loosen them. Don’t be surprised if you snap 1 or both of them while trying to remove them, if you do, you can drill and re-tap if it concerns you. One of mine is broken and I really don’t worry about it. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.6.jpg Now there is a 3rd bolt holding the battery box in, to get to it you will need to remove the auxiliary fuse block which is simply pushed onto a retaining bar as it's encased in a rubber holder. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.7.jpg Pull up on this assembly and move it out of your way now you'll be able to see the 3rd bolt, which is also a 10mm. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.8.jpg Step 7: Now your ready to pull the battery box out completely, there is a small trick to this. You want to pull it out from the right side at an angle, as there are 2 prongs on the left side that hold the Starter solenoid. It will take a little finagling but you'll just have to wiggle it out. The solenoid is encased in rubber and that is how it's attached to the box, you'll just have to slide it off the posts to the left. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.9.jpg Now your area should be clear of all the items necessary to get you cables in from the top down to the sides of the bike. Step 8: Now you have to pull off the 2 side panels the removable ones on both sides of the bike by your legs. Then up to the front and the 2 side shields that are besides the radiator, they are held on by 2 screws each. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.10.jpg When the screws are out pull the panel strait backwards and disengage it from it's slot and then forward . You can remove the horn brackets if you want but you don’t need to as the side shields will come off with them attached. Step 9: Depending on the year of your bike it might or might not have the lower air dam but this has to come off also just for the space availability, and to get at the starter, (If you don’t have this piece skip to step 10). http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.11.jpg There are 4 Allen head bolts that hold it on, 2 on the sides that are visible and 2 underneath the piece, take them out and remove that air dam. Step 10: Remove the chin bar that holds the 2 lower fairing pieces together, this is usually a Phillips head screw or 10mm head bolt, set this aside. Now to remover the 2 lower fairings with the air vents in them, remove the lower bolts from these assemblies (10mm) first and then come up to the top and remove the 2 Phillips screws that are now visible. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.12.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.13.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.14.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.15.jpg You should now be able to remove both of the lower fairing pieces. Now that your all disassembled it's time to install the new battery cables, this can be tedious and I would suggest that you have another pair of hands to help you as it goes LOTS easier with 2 people. I have done it by myself but you just have to be patient if you try to rush it you'll just get mad. Here's what needs to happen now.... Note; While you have access to the rear cylinder spark plug coils, I would suggest replacing the plug wires while they are accessible http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.16.jpg Installation of the cables Step 1: I would suggest you start with the Negative side first as it is the easiest to install and will boost your confidence a bit before attempting the Positive (note: remember the Positive cables have the red heatshrink the Negative has the black) Take a good look at how the cable is routed before you start, there is a small flexible tab that keeps the cable in place on the frames down tube. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.17.jpg These will need to be opened up as well as any cable ties that are holding the stock negative cable in place. (Remember to take pics of the routing if you dont feel confident that you'll remember) Now disconnect the Negative cable from the engine block using a 10mm socket or wrench. Step 2: It's totally up to you how you want to run the new cables, you can either pull them down from the top, or pull them up from the bottom. Myself I would pull them up as this is how I have done it in the past, now the fun begins. You will need a good strong cable tie as you are going to connect the old and new cables together.You also need to separate the additional grounding link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Once this is done you are going to start your Push/Pull method, you will run into some resistance as the new cables are almost twice the diameter of the stock ones, so be paitent. (NOTE: You can apply some WD 40 to the outside of the cable to help the cable slide through). The Negative should pull through fairly easily as there isn't a lot in it's path. Your second set of hands will come in handy here, being up top pulling as you work the cable through it's path from below. Once you get the new portion of cable in the box area http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.18.jpg you'll need to go below and hook up the new cable to the engine block. You can take a pair of vice grip pliers and bend the copper tab over to 90 degrees like the stock one is..this is just for a cleaner look and better fit. Now you can attach the cable back onto the frame tube where it was before and your done with that side. Step 3: Now it's time to do the Positive, this will be a bit more difficult as there is a lot in the area that the cable needs to go through. NOTE: For you who are a bit frazzled right now it might be a good time to get some refreshments ie; a beer or a shot of Beam or just a Root beer and take a break.You are going to do the same procedure as the Negative cable and first remove the Positive cable from the starter which is down inbetween the front exhaust pipes, it's a 10mm nut that holds it on. Remove the rubber nut cover from the stock cable as you can use this again on the new cable. You'll have to split it and re tape it around the new cable or go to your local electrical supply and purchase a bigger one. Then you need to remove the top of the Positive cable from the Starter Solenoid, and separate the fuseable link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Step 4: This is where it can be aggrivating as you will have to snake the Positive through tighter areas, short pulls win the race here so 2 sets of hands are very helpful in these steps. Some of you might have to loosen the bolts that holds the radio amp (left side) to the frame as I have seen some cables routed through there. I have pictured out where the cable comes up through the battery box area. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.19.jpg Once you have the cable in the box area you can re attach it to the frame tube and down to the starter, then pull your slack cable up into the box. Remember dont pull it super tight as you still have to install all your other components. Step 5: Replace the short lead from the Solenoid to the battery, Pay attention to how it is twisted and clamped on the solenoid as you will need to have it in a similar shape for the reinstall. I would suggest you do this before you reinstall the battery box as it it will be easier to get to the retaining nut. NOTE; The rubber ends that cover the positive lugs can be reused but you will have to split them to wrap around the thicker cable. I have done this and you can use either electrical tape or a larger heat shrink tube. You can also go to your local electrical supply house and purchase bigger ends to go over the cables. Your almost home free now all that’s left is to start reassembly
-
I "got the opportunity" so decided I would share... Do you have the carbs off? There's an easy way and a tough way to get the throttle and choke cables off. I finally found the easy way... The carb assembly also needs some "proper" persuasion to get up off their mount boots! Remove the air cleaner... there's a small hose at the front bottom... disconnect it at the air box. There's a large hose at the bottom, rear, center... disconnect it at the ENGINE... this lets you use the hose as a guide when you put it back (plus you can't get to the rear bottom of the air box when it's going back together. Loosen the four rubber boot clamps below the carbs and now it's time to work these up. They don't want to because it's a tight fit but work one side up a bit and then do the other until you have them up. I used two pieces of hardwood to pry the carbs up... one side a bit at a time. Then you pull the carbs a bit out the left side. Run the throttle adjust nut at the handlebar in to get some free cable. Loosen the adjustment coupler right at the carb all the way. Pull THAT cable housing up from the carb cable holder and slide the cable through the slot in the carb mounted holder... there's just enough slack to get it out of the holder! Then you can tip the carbs to see how to disconnect it. Now you can roll the carbs OPEN and get the takeup cable off. The choke is easy, loosen the clamp and slide the cable free. I had three mixture adjust screws set at about 2.5 turns out from bottom and a forth was frozen. I sprayed penetrant spray and over a day worked it in and out a bit at a time... I think the magic setting is 2 to 2.5 turns out from a CAREFULLY bottomed position. More on this later. Before you break the 4 carb assembly apart, make a little drawing of the choke linkage layout and note the spacers and washers on the choke coupling arms. The throttle couplers are straight forward, front and back halves are coupled by a plate and spring on the "balance adjusters", left and right halves are held by a clip-ringed coupling plate. The 4 carb assembly is held together by 16 large (5mm, I think) phillips head screws. These are going to be impossible to almost welded and will round off and make you invent dirty words unless you have the magic thing... the absolute right tool!!! Don't waste time, get one! I used a VERY large phillips bit (from an impact wrench set) that fits "PERFECT" and mounts into a regular socket... mounted on a regular ratchet. This gives you the leverage of the ratchet but you HAVE to have a large bit that fits TIGHT... Take the assembly to the parts shop if in doubt... you'll love me if you do... you'll have lots of new words if you don't. I threw these screws away when I got them out and replaced them with allen bolts from True Value ($4.00, but you'll never mess them up again!!!) Don't even think of using an impact to get these out... you'll break the fragile carb body and be back to inventing dirty words. It's real handy to have a friend hold the carbs on the bench while you break the bolts free. (Did I mention they were tight???) Any good carb cleaner should work fine. It's a question of aggressiveness and preference. Seafoam is good stuff, not terribly aggressive but safe and does a good job with time... you would probably want to soak overnight and follow with a really good scrubbing of parts. B-12 is MUCH more aggressive and (as such) needs more care and attention. I don't think Seafoam eats rubber... I KNOW B-12 WILL. I chose Berrymans so I wasn't waiting so long. It's a toss up to what you like. I didn't want to by 5 gallons of something to allow dipping all 4 carbs and I don't like to have too many "parts" floating around so I planned on doing each carb, one at a time. I used a cut down, lower 2/3s of an anti-freeze bottle as a "dip tank"... it JUST fits one carb body and two pints of cleaner just about cover the carb. You might want to buy three pints so that when you pull one carb, you can drain back most of the cleaner and trash the last bit that has all the dirty junk. I threw in the 5 jets for THAT carb at the same time... if in doubt, make a little diagram of each jet's size and it's location. I cleaned one carb at a time so nothing got mixed up and I could inspect each one on their own. Plus my work area is rather small. Now we have a new, big screw driver bit and four carbs laying on the bench... that bit is going to come in handy for breaking apart the covers! If you still have one "pinned, internal star" screw in each diaphragm cover... buy that tool at the parts store (common tool) and those screws throw them away... it's not worth the hassle... replace all 16 (four per carb) with allen bolts or buy four replacement screws. I used small vice grip pliers rather than buy the tool! It really buggers up the head but... who cares? I WAS a bit worried about buggering one up and still not able to get it out... I later found the right tool was cheap and readily available... I was first "told" it was a "special dealer tool"... grrrrr! Each choke slide can be "overhauled" in-place. Now is a good time as the carb body gives you leverage to get the big nut off. The slide cover nut just unscrews and out comes a spring and brass plunger, check the large brass plunger and spring, grease and reassemble. Then pull the screws holding the choke body to the carb and set aside. The deceleration pump (other side of the carb body) has a spring and diaphragm like a small version of the main diaphragms. These need to be pulled and inspected. The diaphragm can have small tears around the outside rim or maybe a pinhole that would need repaired. They don't "bounce" like the intake slides, they are vacuum driven to smooth sudden deceleration so they are basically set to "trip" open on activation. Clean and set these aside. On top, just inside the intake barrel, is a fixed, small orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed carefully. I found a small, pointed art brush was perfect. Inside the carb diaphragm cover is a large spring and diaphragm assembly, pull and set aside. Inside that carb cavity is a large orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed... There's also a small O-ring at the bottom edge that the diaphragm cover seals ... pull and set aside. Inside the float chamber area, pull the float and float valve. Unscrew the large brass screw (and washer) running through the main jet body... this holds the diaphragm needle housing. Pull the main jet body and pull it's three jets... the long, metering jet inside the middle tube (a large pierced tube looking thing), main jet on side and a small orifice jet in the left tube... this one needs care in cleaning. Be careful with the rubber plugs... they bounce real well if dropped and important that they fit tight when you reassemble!!! The diaphragm needle housing (large brass shaft) can now slide out through the center of the carb body... note that there's an O-ring under the main jet body block that slides over this shaft. Set everything aside with the jets and needle housing to end up in the soaker with the carb body. Ease the rubber drain hoses off the plastic barb very carefully and set aside. The carbs come with a brass sleeve in the carb body that keeps the idle mixture screws "captive" Carefully use a progressively larger drill and drill these out. Use air or ANYTHING to get all those brass filings out. NOW pull the idle mixture jets, spring, washer and O-ring. Use a small wire with a hook on the tip to pull the washer and o-ring if needed. Now go back and get the REST of the metal filings you missed! The carb bodies and jets are now ready to dip. B-12 liquid and spray are good cleaners for disassembly... do NOT use them on assemblies or on a running bike. It's too aggressive and can mess up rubber parts. For regular cleaning I use PJ carb cleaner... it's safer and also it's flammable so it actually HELPS a running engine (it surges like you sprayed ether!) where B-12 isn't and will want to kill the engine! Did I mention it kills rubber parts? "The factory-set needle-valve screw..."??? These are very fragile, tapered metering jets. I spray B-12 on a clean rag and buff these tapers and the main jets. They should be smooth and clean. Any nicks or scrapes and they are trash. The idle mixture screws on ANY carb are set by, very carefully, running them IN so they gently seat and then count the turns OUT from there. I think factory is right around 2 turns out. If you get heavy handed and screw them in hard, you damage the needle seat and get to replace that carb!!! It's a spring loaded screw... use a tight fitting flat blade screwdriver and ease then in. If in doubt... run them in and out a bit to clean the threads and get a better 'FEEL" for them bottoming. For repairing the pinholes in the main diaphragms, I was told to buy some Yamabond 4 It's put on very thin with a toothpick on the "worn spots".... I've only recently put the carbs back on and have run a few tanks through but when I repulled the diaphragms the stuff was exactly like when I put them in. This yamabond stuff is fairly thin and is perfect for this apparently and is also a great gasket seal but just use a tiny bit... Even better is to buy new ones! Oh yeah... don't mess with "close" O-rings... if they don't measure perfect or just a hair big... walk away! There's lots of sources... Napa didn't carry small ones but Kragen did. Napa usually has those odd parts that you need.
