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Showing results for tags 'filter'.
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I'm Confused..need help
lowflyer07 posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Need some help here. I bought an 05 RSTD, and after a month and a half of riding, it was time to change the oil. I have read every thread concerning oil there was to offer here on the site, and finally decided on what I wanted to purchase. The manual calls for "3.91 US qt with filter cartridge replacement" I drained oil, and let it drain for about 20 minutes, changed the filter, and proceded to refill with the new oil. After completing the job, I noticed that the Engine Oil Check Window was full, but thought it might change after starting the engine....it didn't. SOOOO I drained out the oil until the level was between the minimum and maxium level on the window. Even though I had carefully added EXACTLY 3.91 US qt, it was 1 quart OVER FULL. My question is: What Happened? Is the manual wrong? Have any of you had this happen? What is the correct procedure: to fill with the manual required amount, or just to the "full line" on the oil check window? Haven't had anything like this happen on any other bike I have owned. I hope some of you can help me understand what is happening, or at least tell me if you have noticed this yourselves. This is my first post, and hope you guys can help. I enjoy the site a lot, and the information is a lot of help. Thanks! Lowflyer07 -
Quick question, when i hit my breaks the radio changes stations. I hear noise over the speakers ect.. do i need to get a filter on a line to fix that?
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Has anyone tried to change the filter in between oil changes on and RSV? I keep looking at where the filter is mounted and can't decide if it looks above or below the oil level.
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Here's a fairly dumb question, but I was just going to put the K&N's (ya-1399) in my '06 RSTD and looking at the directions it isn't real clear on whether to stick the included gaskets to the filter or to the airbox. I'm assuming the sticky tape side of the gasket affixes to the airbox and then the filter mashes down on top and is screwed in but I just thought I'd double check first before with you guys before I do it wrong and get a bad seal.
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not v r specific,but motorcycles in general. does the oem fuel filter "calibrate" or restrict" the amount of fuel that is delivered to the carbs? if you replace the oem filter, with a larger bore "inline" filter,would that in turn reduce your gas mileage and power? this is about a kz1000. two like bikes, one has twice the power of the other,and twice the fuel effeciency. just wondering if the fuel filter might be the reason. just jt
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Attachment is the Oil Filter Cross Reference List from before the crash of August 06... NOTE: This is an old file. It has been reported that some of these filter, the Purolator in particular, have been redesigned and no longer work on our bikes. CrossReference.pdf
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I remember seeing many months ago a list of screw on filters that fit first gen ventures. I am sick of messing with that o ring. Anybody know of a filter that will work?
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I've seen some posts dissing the Supertech oil filter, so I decided to tear a new one apart for my own peace of mind. What I found was a surprisingly good filter for the $2.29 you pay at Walmart. This filter has all of the right parts in a well made package. See the pictures below for details. What you get for you money: A good anti-drain back valve. This is important in our bikes for two reasons: one, the filter is mounted horizontally. If the anti-drain back valve fails then dirty oil can leak back into the crankcase. Second, if the oil drains out of the filter then the engine oil pump has to fill the filter before it starts pumping oil to the engine at startup. The anti-drain back valve in the ST7317 was well made of a flexible nitrile material. The paper filter element had 43 pleats that were evenly distributed, except where the seam was. This gives about 86 square inches of filter material. For a comparison to other filters check out this link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters The top and bottom of the filter element are metal. The filter element was sealed and glued at both ends. I've heard some manufacturers use a paper end on the filter element. I guess this is OK if you have a good bypass valve arrangement. This filter needs the metal end for the bypass valve to seal to. The filter I opened had a very normal coil spring bypass valve on the top of the filter element. This is more than adequate to protect your engine from lack of lubrication in the event of a clogged filter. By the way, if this feature gets used frequently in your oil filter you need to either let your bike warm up longer before you redline it, or change your oil more often. The filter gasket was smooth with no defects.So here is my challenge: if you have a different filter you like, tear it up and post some pictures. Lets see how they stack up.