yamagrl

My point exactly!

Reverse gravitational inexactitude

Wouldn't it just be a lot easier to turn the motorcycle upside down and then you could just install the slave right side up[emoji12]

Like I said...

No comment on 1 & 2 As for #3 the tight cable. I experienced a little of that after having my carbs off. What I found was that I had the throttle play adjustment at the carbs just a bit too tight. This is the adjustment between the cables from the throttle and the cables to the carb. There is instructions on page 4-9 in the manual. The spec is 15mm but that took all of the slack out of the carb side. So I loosened it just enough that the cable on the carb side was no longer taut. The adjustment on the twistgrip is just for the amount of freeplay up there. This may and may not fix your #3 problem, but it is an important adjustment none the less. If you do not have a manual, there a link somewhere for it. One of the guys can post it for you.

Like I said... "If everything seems to be under control, you ain't goin' fast enough! Big Red pretty much sings in all RPM ranges. but I find myself in the 4k-4.5k range most of the time on the highway.

...oh yeah! I forgot to mention that ya gotta hold yur mouth right

It is a bit tricky to get it back in. Just kinda fish it in there and put the line on after installing. I filled/bled from the bottom. First I removed the line from the master cyl and put the open upper end of the line into a clear bottle to catch the fluid as I forced it up thru the slave bleed screw using a huge 60cc (i think) syringe for injecting cows. It was a lot faster since there was no resistance in the open line. Then I reinstalled the line to the master and continued to force fluid into the master from below. Then I just made certain all of the air was out of the slave...you tap on it and all of the connections with a wrench to knock any bubbles loose. 10 to fifteen minutes to bleed it. You should be able to get a syringe at a feed store.

"You name the sea to where she flows. You name the wind from where she blows." ... Back to front, right to left. Simple quotes help me to recall.

"Dog" is the only animal that is born with the innate need to serve a human master. I truly believe that a dog's love is about as pure as love can be. A sign in our Vet's office

#2 would be considered the master. You will sync as follows: First: Carb 1 to Carb 2 Next: Carb 3 to Carb 4 Last: Carb 4 to Carb 2 An easy way to remember is "Back carbs to front carbs, then right bank to left bank.

We should be able to work it out. It'll have to be after Squidley's maintain day in October.

I'm in Milton, fl (between Pcola and Crestview) and I have Morgan carb sync and good shop. about 130 miles from Troy

They have other car quizzes on the site.

Her is a trivia quiz about "50's Cars" http://www.americantorque.com/view_qs/car-show-50s/

There is no such thing as "Just a dog!"

That would probably depend upon the state in which it occurred. A simple Google search shows that a Grand Jury simply determines if sufficient evidence exists to bring someone to trial. If so they are tried...you know what that means...if acquitted, then they cannot be retried. However, if a Grand Jury fails to find sufficient evidence and hands down a no indictment ruling it does not insulate the accused from further action. A Grand Jury may revisit the case at a later date, provided that the Statute Of Limitation has not passed, if one so exists for the infraction. In this particular case which may involve some type of wrongful loss of life it is highly unlikely that an S of L would exist. That being said, usually if the Grand Jury does not handdown an indictment, it pretty much is treated like "water under the bridge" and the system rarely spends much time on it.

When all else fails... Get a bigger hammer!

The acrylic nail kit is the same methyl methacrylate stuff. At the SE Texas Md in 2013 someone had the plast-aid stuff and I noticed the smell was the same so the next time I was in Wally's I went to health and beauty and looked at the nail kits. Same stuff! The great thing about it is that you can get it anywhere...Wally's, CVS. Wallgreens... It works well with acrylic plexiglass, which can be heat formed as well. I cut the plexiglass with a rotozip. It tends to chip less. You should be able to obain the flexible molding material at a hobby shop. By the way...abs is widely available at any auto junkyard. It was widely used on cars also.

I used plaxiglass and acrylic fingernail powder/liquid. About 8 dollars at Wally World. You'll find it by the hair, nails and makeup. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/165e7619cf67fcc4b9563d7890a03618.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/10a469788b87114fa6e3b2df58edb7dd.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/07d35ac9e6bc00361575ec889ab7cd0a.jpg

First and foremost... ORDER these videos. They were INVALUABLE... You will be glad you did. It was one of the best 20 bucks I ever spent. Tell Damon I said "Hi". http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84030 I just did the 2nd gear repair in my 84. If I can do it...so can you. I had NO CLUE what I was doing when I started. I took a great amount of time researching, reading , asking, posting. I approached it very methodically and very meticulously. It was a success and I am very pleased and proud to say "I did it myself". Here is my thread Time for second gear repair I, too, found this to be helpful and easy to understand http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=508 If you PM me I'll send you a copy of the related parts that I ordered. The seals, gaskets etc. I purchased this engine stand for about $60.00 from Harbor Freight and adapted it for a this engine. You will see it how it's done in the video. The only problem I'm experiencing now is that I can't keep the darned front wheel on the ground when I go into second!

Based on all of the above suggestions, I'll... 1. Double check the vacuum lines, etc 2. The rubber manifolds were not removed but I'll check for vacuum leaks with starting fluid trick 3. Check the pickup coil connections. I changed the QD at the end of the wires coming out of the stator cover 4. If need be Ill pull the stator cover and check the coils. I had that all apart to facilitate stripping and refinishing the engine covers 5. Check the coils and plug wire connections. I had the coils off to remove some rust and paint the coil bracket frame in that area. 6. It has new plugs VideoA, I'm kinda with you on this one. If it's not a vacuum leak or other obvious carb issue it might be an issue with ignition/pickup coils I'll be working today and will have some time available this weekend to get back on it. I have an opportunity to buy an 86 VR for $200. It is complete, but hasn't run for years. It will at least be a good parts bike. I think I'll go get it.

Sync? How's this? http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/21/0d2a5f2f138a9c38773c65cad3cb36fe.jpg

I checked the hoses but I'll check again. None were stiff and cracked. I am drawing a blank about the orings you are referring to. Please reference them on the pats breakdown. Sync?

84 VR What would make the engine flatten out and miss when cruising at higher speeds? It otherwise runs exceptionally well. It starts easily and requires no or little choke even when cold. You just kind of "turn it on". It has great acceleration, runs really smooth when at lower speeds. But when it gets to highway speed it flattens out and starts missing. It's like its starving for fuel. Open up the throttle and it seems to be better. Settle back down and it starts acting up again. Before I did the second gear repair it did not have this problem. When I had the bike torn down for 2nd gear I only removed the carbs and set them aside. I simply reinstalled them when I put it all back together. That's when the problem started. So I pulled the carbs, completely disassembled, soaked in Berryman's Chem-Dip, rinsed, flushed every part, opening and orifice with Berryman's Carb cleaner, blew them out and reassembled with carb kits and new rubber plugs on the jet blocks. Re-used the coast enrichment and choke valves. Reassembled as per Damon Ferraiuolo's video. Float levels are spot on in the shop, (tied down on the lift in the riding profile, not on centerstand). So they should be pretty close to the same when riding. The diaphragms had pin holes (light showed though) and so I did the "Plasti-Dip spray trick" (no light) hoping to get a couple of months out of them and defer the expense until a more convenient time. It's kind of confusing though as to how it could be the diaphragms; before 2nd gear repair there was no issue but the diaphragms had holes, after the 2nd gear repair the problem began and remained the same after the holes were repaired with Plasti-Dip. It seems like it would have had some effect...something different. I know I am going to need new ones. And if I have to bite the bullet and buy them now...so be it. But I'm hoping to ensure that the issue is not caused by something else and if so, fix it. A few tidbits of related info. The issue is the same whether I have the Ignitech and map sensor (Dingy) or the original TCI and boost installed. At the moment the TCI is installed. I installed the new quick disconnect for the pick-up coils that Dingy included with the Ignitech Fuel pump clicks pretty good when the key is turned on.