ACE50

They are just decorative tips. Two M6 screws hold them on. Either synch the carbs or get rid of AIS.

The wheel came with a stock Dunlop D251 radial and has a lot of life left on it. My E3 on rear is a Bias.

Stratoliner/Roadliner wheel is a direct swap. Search ebay. As far as tires go, the difference between my wife's car with low profile tires and my truck with TALL profile tires is dramatic! My truck just yaw's terrible if I make a sudden lane change, her car is rock solid. Similar on bike tires. Taller profile will just give, but will ride smoother though. There are trade-offs. Heck, there are people here that think Dunlop 404's are an OK tire on these bike. I don't get that at all!!!!

Tire was balanced. Going from a 150/80-16 (stock) to a 130/70-18 will always make a big difference. That's what's on a Goldwing and they handle great. I still have a slight rear wobble with the stock size E3. (40-42 psi) Just too much tire. A Dunlop 402 on rear was almost dangerous in the corners. Nearly crashed the first month of getting the bike on a hard ride. Glad to have worn it out in 3500 miles. Next year I'm going to try a Bridgestone Exedra Max. Anybody else try one???

When I bought the bike 2 years ago the PO had just put on new Dunlop 402's. I had a bad rear wobble in sweeping corners, after 3500 miles I wore out the rear and installed a Dunlop E3. That fixed most of that problem. Was a good 1.5 years again. Finally replaced the front with a E3 as the Dunlop was pretty scalloped but still road well though. It all went to hell with a front E3. WTH! Lost all confidence in the bike all around. Just wasn't steady anymore. My best friend bought me a Stratoliner front wheel (prob got tired of me complaining) and all was good again, even better than before!!!! Stable in corners and steady in straights, as I can comfortably ride with no hands for miles. Couldn't do that before. The VMAX S.D. is icing on the cake! Gets you up in the power band much quicker. Seems to tax the engine less with all that weight it has to move around. Just love it!

After two years of owning this RSTD, I finally got to do the Stratoliner front wheel change and VMAX shaft drive swap. All I can say is, this is one SWEET ride now! She just screams for a big'ol bike. My ONLY complaint about this bike now is the weight. Other than that it is swee................oh I already said that. Heck the riding season is almost over now though. Bummer.

I've been using T6 also but I've learned they lowered the zinc content this year. May cause some wear issues. May try something else now.

I removed mine. Harness and all!

How many miles on the bike? Could be a bad wheel bearing.

I put LED's on one of my bike's and ended up changing them back. Regular bulbs are uni-directional in brightness while LED's are directional. Only bright where they are pointing. Unless you spend high dollar on the better designed ones. $100 vs $2. What a waste!!!

I've seen bad wheel bearings do that.

Won't that cover up your brake light with something on it?

Yes to links. 18" wheel with narrow tire like that should always help! I hardly ever hit floorboards now with the links. Next mod is a VMAX drive!

PM sent

+1 on the Stratoliner front wheel replacement! Changed out a worn Dunlop 402 (not bad but cupped a lot) and put an E3 on front (E3 on back 6 months ago was great!) and it whet to hell. Low and high speed handling was terrible. Yes, correct pressures everywhere. My best friend bought me a Strat front wheel and wow!, I got my bike back! Low and high speed handling much better! Anybody need a midnight front wheel with an E3 with less than 1K on it?

I'm not close but these are cheap, very accurate and extremely durable. Did mine in 3 min. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-CARB-BALANCER-VACUUM-GAUGE-TOOL-/231060761371?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35cc4b6b1b

I have a N43 trilogy. Didn't like at first. Noisier than my HJC and not as comfortable but like the chin-bar for added safety. Use it when on my sportbike. Easily taken apart when the sunshield sticks. Modified anyway to make it come down a little more. Added a detent to visor in a slightly open position. Comes with a full open or closed position only. Only bought it cause it was a model closeout and half price. Wouldn't buy it at full price. Better helmets out there for that. I even got $15 additional credit when I got it cause it had a bad paint spot on it.

Try ceramic composite pads instead of the HH sintered people normally use. Not as harsh on rotors and a little quieter. I've tried the lube/stuff you put on the back but the sound just comes back over time.

Easy check, look at your vacuum diaphrams. They come into play when you open throttle. May have split?

Aw, 1st geners having to keep 2 bikes just to keep ONE running..........how sad :rotf: Mine may be slower, but it just keeps going, and going.........!!!

This is by far the easiest, cheapest ?, most durable sych tool I've ever used. Very accurate too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-CARB-BALANCER-VACUUM-GAUGE-TOOL-/330954772339?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4d0e710f73

2007, 20 more ponies because of larger carbs and cruise control! Little more wind protection too with the lower fairing. Love my 06!!! Almost bought a 98, glad I didn't. Price would be only thing to change my mind if I couldn't swing an 07.

After installing larger slow jets (15 stock to 17.5) almost never use choke now unless it's below 55°. Better throttle response too. Same MPG.

5 years and 5 diff JAP bikes @ 8K a year, haven't lost a part yet! Never been stranded either.

Oh ya, +2 on bigger pilot jets. Just one size bigger with slip-ons, K&N and 50% bigger opening on inlet to air filter housings. Played with spacers under needle jets but that just hurt my mileage. With mods mentioned, the throttle response is darn near perfect! Mileage is still 42-43 hyway. Just love this bike now!!!! Have a friend who's a jetting perfectionest and even he says it runs great!:cool10: