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oldfaithful

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Everything posted by oldfaithful

  1. oldfaithful
    As a point of reference, the tech operates normally. I've never seen it drop or jump. The in-dash voltage meter sits in the middle at idle and quickly climbs to 14v when you give it throttle.
  2. oldfaithful
    That I will have to do. Thanks
  3. oldfaithful
    Have you ever put a timing light on it to see what it's doing?
  4. oldfaithful
    That's a good idea. I replaced the R&R with an FJR unit a couple years ago. Could it be causing a misfire across all 4 cylinders?
  5. oldfaithful
    Thanks for the suggestion. I pulled 1 and checked the plug as well as the boot and resistor. All was well there...?
  6. oldfaithful
    I know it's been some time since I've posted, but the ole girl has been running well for several years now...until now. I just returned from a long motorcycle road trip (5k mi) and knew she needed a sync, which I did. No biggy. The real problem is that she's developed an intermittent misfire at idle. It's not bad, the idle just sounds uneven, and with the timing light you can see the spark skip every couple seconds when idling...and all 4 cylinders have the miss. If it was just 1 cylinder, that might be easier to diagnose. With all 4 cylinders sporadically missing, I'm at a loss. The bike has plenty of power, and runs like it should...except at idle. No backfires, no trouble starting, typical gas mileage. Has anyone ever noticed an intermittent miss like this, and might anyone have any guess as to the cause? Thank you for any suggestions you might have!
  7. oldfaithful
    The 1st Gen has a "Tip Over Switch"??? I just learned something new today, thank you. But now I'm scared...these bikes handle so well that its easy to scrape the pegs and now I've got to worry about the Tip Over Switch cutting out the ignition just because I leaned over too far!!!
  8. oldfaithful
    Just to add another data point... I get right around 40 mpg almost all the time, no matter how I ride. Cruising steady or blasting thru the hills. By the way, I have done the spacer/shim mod on my slide needles and my mileage stayed the same.
  9. oldfaithful
    Hey Motorcycle Jockey, I used almost exactly the same setup as you describe on my '84...with mixed results. (All because I did not like the concept of the linked braking system.) I ran 1 line from the front master all the way down to the right caliper. Then a double banjo at the right caliper and a line up over the fender to the left caliper. Everything fit perfectly and looks fine to me. The rear flexible line remained the same, but the proportioning valve was gutted and the extra port plugged. (The junction block under the fairing was also removed.) Now the results! The front brakes are ok, but really lack the appropriate stopping power. The front master is now pushing on twice the caliper so it's difficult to make a sudden stop. Difficult but not impossible, it just takes more pull force than you'd expect. The rear brakes are very "wooden", meaning that when you push on the rear you go from no brake to full brake too quickly. There is very little you can do to feather the brake or apply it gently. This setup cost me nothing in new parts and I think I got my money's worth. I started cheap, trying to not invest too much in the bike since it was new to me and I didn't really know how long I would keep it. But now I'm addicted. I've learned to make it work by applying the front firmly and the rear lightly, but after 2 years of riding it this way I'm making plans to upgrade...
  10. oldfaithful
    Well my riding buddy and i are on a trip to the northeast. Today at about 4 pm i noticed a blue first gen going west on interstate 86 in new york state. Was that anyone here?
  11. oldfaithful
    I 2nd the LED tail lights. I bought 2 of the Radiantz 48 count, dual intensity, red LED lights that fit the 1157 socket. Their OD is 1.85" and just barely fit inside the stock lens...I think they actually contact the lens slightly. But, boy are they bright! My riding buddy refers to them as my "afterburners". Even in the daylight they are so bright that it looks like my brakes are ON, until I actually hit the brakes and you can really tell it then. Excellent product. I fixed the blinking light with a piece of black electrical tape, for now...
  12. oldfaithful
    Are you guys kidding, that's a screwdriver...from my tool box. Please return it asap.
  13. oldfaithful
    Your best fix is to cut a piece of steel bigger than your hole. Place it on the inside and weld in place. I have a 110V Lincoln mig welder that can run as a mig (with sheild gas) or with flux wire, and recently did this exact patch with 0.030 flux core wire. Then fill with bondo, sand to preference and prime/paint as you like. If you need an easier (aka no welding) patch method, then make your steel piece with several small holes drilled in it. You can add a few small holes to the roof too if you like. Then affix the patch in place, from the inside, with JB Weld. Now just spread your bondo across the entire area and allow the filler to ooze thru the holes. It may take several applicaitons, usually slower & thinner applications will work best. Just be sure when sanding that you don't get all the way down to the steel. Leave a layer of filler to hold the patch in place. There is even some fiberglass mesh you can apply to the inside to give the filler something to form onto on the back side. Bondo is suprisingly strong filler, and will do fine, so long as its not a highly stressed area on the body. It's not fancy, and may crack in a couple years, but you were asking for alternatives...
  14. oldfaithful
    My gut reaction was to agree...sales pitch! But the more I thougt about it the more I began to agree with Miles. I happen to be in the market for a Subaru AWD right now, so I've joined the NASIOC forum and have been doing research on there for a while. It also helps that a friend at work is a Subaru fanatic and he's been singing their praises for years. Anyway, I just searched that forum for an answer to this question and found the following "common knowledge": When you get a flat, buy a new tire of the same make and have it shaved down x/32nds (the aveage of the rest). Subarus can handle up to a 2/32nds difference between tires. Be sure to measure across the width of the thread pattern for an average. Most good shops, including the Tire Rack, will shave a new tire to match your other 3. I found several examples of forum members that had mixed their tires and burned up the differentials. Turns out this exercise was educational for me too!
  15. oldfaithful
    No, that's not for me. I'm much more of a family man myself. I don't consider myself old, but I am certainly "old school". I'd rather explore the open road than the night life. Besides, if I was into that scene I'd ride a HD instead of an XVZ12.
  16. oldfaithful
    Thanks for the education, that's helpful!
  17. oldfaithful
    I've been looking thru ebay and noticed that when folks are selling heads for the xvz12, xvz13, or vmax, they always specify that its a front or rear. I've looked at mine and can't tell...is there a difference between the front and rear? Can they be interchanged? Thanks!
  18. oldfaithful
    As a matter or course, I hate lawyers...all but 1. (He's a friend of the family.) You've recieved a lot of good advice, and all I can add is to reiterate what others are saying. Agree to nothing, sign nothing, accept nothing...get a lawyer you can trust. Hopefully there was a police report too. Glad you were all ok. Good luck!
  19. oldfaithful
    Ouucccch. Watching those videos made me cringe every time. I had a friend in college do the exact same thing as the guy in the last video. That was hard to watch too. You just can't catch a 600 lb bike when it decides to exit left. My bike trailer is about 16" from the ground and has a fairly soft suspension. I built it for my bikes and I've used it many times over the last 20 years. I typically use a large thick piece of plywood (about 3' x 4') to be sure I have a place to put my feet and don't have to worry about missing the ramp. Yes, it will bend and bow when loading a full size bike but it's never broken. While loading the XVZ, the trailer suspension compresses, the little truck lifts a bit, and the 16" gap becomes ~10" That said, I never ride my bike onto the ramp...slowly walked on every time. Actually, if my memory serves me correctly today...I think I built that trailer shortly after watching the aforementioned friend try to load his Yamaha Seca into the back of the moving truck!!!
  20. oldfaithful
    I second this one, I've found acorns and nesting material in my mufflers. PVC plugs sounds like a good idea. But venison, now that's a great idea! Don't kill that little fella. Ahhh...the smell of roasting meat while I cruise on down the road. I may not get very far before I get hungry and have to stop at the nearest diner!
  21. oldfaithful
    As to what im up to...nothing in particular. The bike really doesnt need anything serious at the moment. Shes running fine. Im a design engineer, i guess i just like to know how things work. And i really dont want to tear it apart to examine the internals.
  22. oldfaithful
    Is it just me or does that section of the manual say the timing sequence is 1-3-4-2, while the chart below it shows 1-3-2-4?
  23. oldfaithful
    Thank you. I just couldn't find the specifics. Now, as I try to wrap my mind around this, lets see if I've got it right. The firing order is 1-3-2-4 but the order in which pistons hit TDC is 1-4-3-2, and crank rotation is clockwise when viewed from the left. In a graph of position vs angle of rotation (ranging from 0 to 720 deg), #1 would fire at 0 deg, #3 at 180 deg, #2 at 290 deg and #4 at 470. Now, thinking about the pickups in the previous pic. Rotation should be as attached and the TCI must trigger #1 & #2 on the voltage rise of the induced spike, while #3 & #4 must trigger on the voltage drop of the induced voltage. Is that right? Please let me know if I've gone astray, and thanks!
  24. oldfaithful
    Sorry, I forgot the pic.
  25. oldfaithful
    Hey Guys, This is just a learning exercise today. I've been searching for specific info on the timing of the 1st Gen, particulary the 84 since that's what I've got. If I understand correctly, our V4 is an odd fire engine, meaning that the cylinders are not evenly spaced 180 deg apart like the typical inline 4. However, when looking at the pickup coils on the inside of the left cover (see the pic I found and re-attached) it appears that not only are the banks separated by a prescribed angle, but each cylinder within the bank appears to also be separted by a smaller angle. My search leads me to a 70 deg angle between banks, but what is the separation angle between cylinders on each bank? Why would the mfg have chosen that timing, and is there some benefit that escapes me? Thanks all!
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