Prairiehammer

Heading for Maine this summer. Ordered the publication. Thanks for the link.

When I first tried the 765T, I was powering it through the USB port and with display set at fully bright, I could not read it, even in indirect sunlight. If I used the 12 volt cigarette plug, the display was noticeably brighter and I could read the display even in bright sunlight. But the cigarette lighter plug on the 765T includes some electronics for "Traffic" and because of this, the plug is too tall coming out of the lighter receptacle and the throttle cables run interference (on a First Gen). I have subsequently obtained a hardwired power supply with the Garmin plug that one inserts into the cradle for 12 volt power. It is compact enough to fit under the top cover. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290573932311?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

That IS pretty cool! We have a 2005 Dodge Magnum and I have been thinking about a cargo trailer that looks like the Magnum. It sometimes reminds me of a Nomad. This has been offered on eBay for quite awhile. Don't know the company that makes it: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pull-Behind-Cargo-Motorcycle-Trailer-Harley-Touring-Road-King-Softail-Goldwing-/380636826124?pt=Motors_Trailers&hash=item589fb90a0c

I can't say for sure since I don't have that adapter, but if the RAM adapter is like the rest of the RAM balls, it is rubber and should keep the 765T from moving around. I bought a cheap plastic handlebar mount for my 765T ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/390471896666?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 ) and it was too loose in the Garmin cradle. I wrapped the 17mm ball with some rubber splice tape and it doesn't move at all now. I'm thinking the RAM mount should work better, but a little bit of rubber tape may tighten it up if needed.

Get this adapter for 1" RAM to 17mm Garmin. The 17mm plugs into the stock Garmin cradle. Take the GPS and leave the cradle on the Ram mount with Garmin power cord: http://www.rammount.com/CatalogResults/PartDetails/tabid/63/partid/082065080045083066065045082071085/Default.aspx

:sign yeah that:Made in USA, too!

Oh, I've seen that very thing with mine own two eyes...I think Jack Daniels was there, too!

Alvald used tint on his cut down First Gen windshield: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61311

Put an antennae back into the hole?

Really?! Cool! Some pics when you get them installed.

I don't follow. I can remove my side covers without removing anything else. Your passenger floorboards are not stock? What backrest? I have/had a Markland backrest on my '90 and it didn't prevent side cover removal. Is yours a VentureLine backrest or Markland?

I replaced the wires and caps on my '83 with a spark plug wire set intended for a 1994 Suzuki Swift, AutoZone #189740, -9741. Caps were molded on to the wires. The wires are carbon core (resistor). One thing: the plug caps require spark plug nuts screwed onto the NGK plug ends.

Another source for ABS: most plastic computer cases. I've used cut up cases for repairs utilizing ABS cement (it is black and the repair, done properly, is stronger than stock.) MEK solvent is your friend. In fact, for some repairs I've used MEK alone to glue ABS parts together. Downside: not as many black parts on old computers.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-54K-2171Y-02-00.html http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-54K-2172Y-02-00.html http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/750558 http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-grill-side-cover-1-54k-2171y-02-00-part.html http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/655899

Coincidentally, I have been contemplating that exact thing this week! I've been pondering materials, techniques and out of the box ideas (Kydex, PVC, aluminum, brass, even wood mini blinds and house floor registers) but nothing yet. New OEM vents are still available from Yamaha but their price is out of my range ($143 EACH). The stock plastic is ABS and I did fix one louver that broke in two with ABS cement, but then another broke the little pivot arm and that piece is long gone. It would be fairly easy to make a block off plate to replace the louvers, but I want to retain the capability to open or close the vent. I find the open vent a nice source of heat in chilly weather. Good luck and keep us abreast of your findings and progress. Oh, BTW, Welcome!

So, forever thereafter known as "Condor's Twinky".

And made in the USA!

I just took mine out this Spring. Remove the airbox, I removed the front plastic baffle that sits on the valve cover (take it out the right side of the bike) then I used a small ratchet with a 1" long #3 Phillips head driver in a ¼" socket and they came right out. A mirror helped me to see the screws. Mine weren't rusted at all and came out without much effort. I also removed the "boost sensor" first (using the same wrench set-up) although it may not HAVE to be removed. Removing it just gave me some more room. I installed Dingy's Ignitech on the airbox and didn't reinstall the old TCI. I did reinstall the boost sensor so that I could fall back to stock without difficulty, if needed. I used conventional hex head bolts to reinstall the boost sensor (makes it easier to remove in the future). The hardest part of the job was reassembling the airbox especially the crankcase ventilation hose from the airbox to the "twinky". Don't forget to re-install the plastic baffle onto the valve cover.

Actually, it was a Mazda design and it was the Ford Escape that was a re-badged Tribute. Both built on the same assembly line in Missouri.

How about demounting that tire changer and bringing it with you to Freebird's MD? Twenty-five dollars a pop? I'll supply the tire.

Andy, Here is a diagram that Dingy included in his Relay 101 document. Note that the wire gauge to/from terminal 85 and 86 can be fairly small (diameter); that is a low wattage signaling circuit. The wire from your 12 volt positive for the air compressor, terminals 87 and 30 should be a bit heavier gauge since those wires are carrying the load current for the horn. I wouldn't grab power for the horn from terminal 30 on your headlight relay; find a blank fuse holder for the horn, and use the output from that fuse to energize both the horn relay signal (terminal 85) and the horn load (terminal 87).

It should work. How much power does your GPS pull? What is the wattage output for the linked harness? Seems like a LOT of money.

The pink wire (it is to ground) is switched by the horn button. There is no "power" to the horn button; the horn button when depressed completes the ground circuit.

OK, IC.

Yes, there is a direct wire to the battery option that utilizes the Garmin cord end for the cradle at one end and a pigtail at the other end for connecting to the battery and there is a black box (electronic transformer) in the middle. Be sure, if you buy one of those, that the Garmin end is for the cradle receptacle (like this) and not for the mini-USB receptacle (like this). While your GPS will run using the USB, the screen will not be bright enough to read outdoors.