Prairiehammer

[ATTACH]78272[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]78273[/ATTACH] Well. My 3D map looks very much different than yours. I'm not certain what I am looking at when in 3D, but it appears there is a substantial dip in the advance. Shouldn't it be smoother? I have been trying to provide a larger picture, but no matter what size the pic is on my computer, when I upload it, the pic is always reduced in size. Why is that?

If you have needles, you must be using dial type gauges. The Carbtune® uses steel bars to ride up and down in clear tubes. Dial guages should also have some restrictors, but will still be pretty jumpy as compared to the genuine Carbtune®.

According to the factory manual for my 1990, the ignition timing advance is at about 36°BTDC at 2500 rpm, and at 48°BTDC at 5000 rpm. It remains at 48° through to redline. The Ignitech advance curve shows about 13°BTDC at 2500 and 28°BTDC at 5000 rpm topping out at 32° at 7000 rpm remaining at 32° to 10000 rpm. If I am reading the factory manual graph correctly, I should bump up the timing in all ranges substantially. Am I reading the graph correctly? There is a Big difference in the advance maps if I am.

The 26H series TCI is for the 1983. The 41R series TCI is for the 1984-1989 The 3JJ series TCI is for the 1990-1993 The 41R shouldn't work well on your 1983, unless you have changed the vacuum pick-up point from the stock carb location. Maybe you have a 1983½? What is your VIN?

The write up is in the Technical Library. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489

Print out Dingy's electrical schematics in a large format (Kinko's, Staples) for a very colorful and MORE accurate electrical schematic. I have a larger format printer and printed out his schematics onto 13"x19" coated paper. It is nice. As for the hard copy manual; keep an eye on eBay. They (Yamaha factory manuals) come up for $25 or so, occasionally. I don't have any experience with Clymer manuals for the Venture, but the one I had for my CB750 did not favorably compare to the factory manual.

Yes. And yes. Note: if you hook it up wrong you will blow a fuse. Have some spares?

"this" is the turn signal flasher relay.

Well, there are only two lights to flash on the "entire right side of bike". So, it's NOT just the right rear. It's ALSO the right front not flashing. When you put the Hazard flasher switch to ON, what lights flash?

If it looks like this it might be time to think about a replacement:

I know you are talking about the RSV and its digital odometer, but it is a good idea as a way to tell one how many miles before we have to start pushing. However, any of you First Gen guys latch on to that idea of zeroing the trip meter when the light comes on, note that on the mechanical odometer/trip meter of the First Gen that it is problematic (ie. it harms the odometer gears) to reset the trip meter while in motion. Just a FWIW.

Keith, Were the worn out points on the fuel pump of the RSV or the 1986? The same basic Mitsubishi pump (with mounting changes) is used on several motorcycle brands. There is a repair kit for replacing the point/contact assembly available for $30-$50. An example here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Petrol-Pump-Repair-Kit-Honda-CBR-900-RR-Fireblade-/200694634286 And here (US seller): http://www.heartlandhonda.com/K&L-FUEL-PUMP-POINT-SWITCH-KIT-detail.htm?productId=17216829 And a How-To here: http://cbrforum.com/forum/stickies-91/how-repair-your-f3-fuel-pump-102151/

Out of the four turn indicators, just the right rear fails to flash? I would check that right rear turn signal bulb. But that is just me.

OK, but are the hardened metric bolts with the recessed head (Torx or Allen) available in the required flat head (for countersunk application)?

Broadly speaking, increased ignition timing should result in better fuel economy, correct? Retarding the timing usually results in poorer fuel economy, correct? So, with that, the Ignitech as delivered with the advanced timing should have better fuel economy. Perhaps, it is not the more advanced timing, but the actual ignition timing curve should be tweaked?

The vehicle manufacturer always specifies the recommended tire pressure for the tire that the vehicle is equipped with from the factory. Change to another tire and you should follow the TIRE manufacturer's recommendation for that tire, not the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation for the tire that came with the vehicle.

I replaced my TCI with the Ignitech this Spring. Previous to that I averaged 42 mpg while mostly two up and often fully loaded (GVW of approximately 1250#). Twenty-eight hundred twenty-six mile trip to Florida (solo, mixed Interstate and flower sniffing) averaged 40.85 mpg. Lake Superior trip, 2830 miles, 42mpg, two-up heavy load (camping for two weeks) mostly two lane. Two tanks this early Spring (before the Ignitech) averaged 42 mpg. Installed the Ignitech, and averaged 35 mpg for two tanks. Pulled a trailer to Freebird's MD and averaged 33.3 mpg (one-up, nearly all Interstate speeds). Took a 600 mile trip this past weekend (all two lane roads, two-up) and averaged 37 mpg. We are planning a 3500 mile trip next month, pulling a trailer, two-up and I am imagining average mpg at about 30-31. My question: since it seems installing the Ignitech has resulted in reduced fuel economy, what settings can I adjust and what should those settings be to more approximate the stock OEM ignition settings. I am presuming the current Ignitech settings/program deviates from the OEM settings.

Those screws are Yamaha part number 90149-08152-00. When I run that number, however it is obsolete. SOME parts fiche say that obsolete number has been superseded with this number: 90149-08013-00 The part number will tell you the size; in this case it is 8mm diameter, 13mm in length. BUT, this screw has a flat head configuration, making it more difficult to find a non Yamaha replacement. The Torx recess head is probably required in order to get a reliable torque. This place has the screws for $1.88 each: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-90149-08152-00-Screw-90149-08013-00-Made/dp/B005C5B2BE]Yamaha 90149-08152-00 Screw New # 90149-08013-00 Made by Yamaha : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

It is a Mitsubishi. Used on several different motorcycle brands. Only mountings vary.

Stupid democracy.

Do you mean on the left side of the engine? You took the middle gear cover off and found broken bolts? Could you describe the "tabs"? Are they (the tabs) the bearing retainers for the middle gear shaft? The bolts that are sheared off; are they Torx recess heads? Is this pic depicting where you are talking about? The middle gear cover is removed on the left side of the engine, toward the rear of the engine/transmission.

I know that I am beating a dead horse, but... I checked the forum this morning and found about thirty threads that had been updated since my last visit last evening. I DID NOT READ ANY OF THOSE THREADS, however, when I returned to the site 30 minutes later this morning, all but two of those thirty threads had been marked as read. Now I have to wade through ALL the posts since I visited last night to catch up. And because those threads have been marked "read", I can't use the "view first unread" feature, I have to start at the beginning of each thread (or the end of the thread and work backwards) and read down until I find those comments posted since I visited last. I SERIOUSLY don't get you guys' complaints about the "New Forum Change" other than the fact that it was a CHANGE. ("You can't teach an old dog new tricks" comes to mind.) How in the heck is this old way better in light of my recent experiences?

I'm leaving on a 3500 mile trip on August 3. I would like to take the OEM TCI with me as a backup to the Ignitech. Does that give you enough time to complete your trip and have it back to me for my trip?

It is stock with about 24000 miles on it. I have no idea what the hiccup was about. I replaced the TCI with an Ignitech from Dingy, but the stock OEM TCI never failed me.

I have a known good TCI from my 1990. The only glitch in it was a "hiccup" at 3100 rpm. I have sawn off the mounting ears, though. You'll have to Velcro or tape it to the top of the airbox.