frankd

You also asked about the codes present. Both banks lean. Yes, all the plugs are in the holes and because this is a 3 valve engine, it's not supposed to have all the vacuum leaks the 2 valve version has. When I read the info on my Actron 9180, the barometric pressure reads 72 KPA, which converts to about 21" of mercury of an altitude of 9500'. Our elevation here is about 1100'. The 02 sensors are fine, because I put some propane into the air cleaner and they read about .78V. Frank

RSTDog, Thanks for the info. I've got a less clear version of the 2nd page you sent me, but your's helps a lot. Also the first page shows what the sensor looks like. If the rain holds off a bit, I'll go out and look some more for it now that I've got more info. Frank

A friend of mine passed away and left his wife with a Ford E-450 (with 6.8 V-10 Triton) that started running real rough and the check engine light came on. I noticed that the barometric pressure listed was as being 72 KPA, which is the normal pressure @ 9500', which makes it run real lean at 1100'. I've been told that some of these sensors were under the steering column (I looked), and also some are in the PCM (Power control module). Anybody have any way of finding out where they really are?

When I bought my 89, it was missing the front scan button. I pulled the CB channel up and down plastic pieces from the rear control unit and covered the opening with a piece of electrical tape. My wife would never have a reason to switch CB channels, so they aren't missed at all. I took one of them and installed it on the front scan switch. We've moved since then, so I had no idea where the unused plastic piece I have is. Frank D.

At 45-55 MPH that's what I used to get on my 83 with the YICS system. I know that most everybody feels that the YICS system didn't do anything and to take it off, but in 83' Yamaha bragged how it raised the gas mileage at lower speeds. However, at 70MPH, my 83 gets about 42-44 MPG. At 80 MPH, it gets about 28-30 MPG. My 89 is a touch different. I've adjusted the floats and raised the needles in the carbs and at 72MPH, it gets about 42MPG. It doesn't seem to be nearly as frugal with the gas at lower speeds, and doesn't fall off as quickly at higher speeds

I realize this thread was written about a 2005, but....Red Rider said that if you see chips at the next lube change, to look for another pumpkin. I've got a touch over 90K on my 89, and I run synthetic lube in mine. I change it every couple of years and I always see some metal on the magnet. My 83 was the same way. Some metal chips are normal.

Thomas, I did a quick Ebay search and found this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-VMAX-XVZ12-XVZ13-Venture-V-MAX-Valve-Shim-Tool-04105-/192042659944?hash=item2cb6a27068:m:mCXpbmtQrhNEaPcSUWIhcKg&vxp=mtr I'm not sure what state you're in, because I didn't look at your profile to find out. I see you are in Linden, but you must not have specified your state because when you do, your state's flag appears. Please add this. Frank D.

Apply vacuum to the bellows with a hand pump and verify that it doesn't leak. I've never had to work on my cruise control except for the levers, but after I checked the bellow for leaKS, I'd connect a small 12 volt bulb across the vacuum pump motor and go for a ride to see if it's receiving power. When you tested to make sure the vacuum pump would run, did you check if it was producing vacuum? The solenoid that opens to reduce speed may be stuck open. I don't think you have a lever problem, because when that happens the only light that will be on would be the power light. In response to those that have levers that won't stay in the released position by themselves......I fought with mine, replacing the bushing around the bolt, but no help. To get my cruise to work, I had to manually hold the clutch lever in the released position. I went up to ACE Hardware and found a spring that was the same diameter as the spring in the lever, but slightly longer. I installed it about 4 years ago and everything is still working properly. Frank D.

Snyper, If it's sizzling, it's way too hot, unless you were using it heavily. When I said too warm to touch, I should have said too hot to hold you hand on. Frank

Measure your valve clearance, and if it's real low on your weak cylinders, install the proper shims. However if the valve clearance is excessive and you have low compression and popping there are other possible causes. Let us know how much clearance you find. Frank D.

On both of my 1st Gens, the rear brake runs hotter than the fronts. The fronts are out in the cool air so they've got good ventilation. The rear is behind the motor and the cool air is blocked. If you can get the rear tire off the ground, spin it and see how hard it is to turn but remember you're also turning over the drive line. I don't know about the 2nd gens., but on 1st gens if you get the axle washer on the right side in the wrong position, the brakes will not release correctly. Of course we have to agree on what is HOT. On mine, I seem to remember that even with gentle usage, when I get it into the garage I can't touch the rear rotor whereas the fronts are merely WARM.

The Yamaha manual want's you to use their special holding device to keep the engine from rotating and then use a box wrench or a socket and a rachet to remove the bolt. I usually just use my air impact gun (and a socket) to remove it without the engine spinning. Frank D.

Puc, You don't have to pull the entire cover to verify that your 83 has the stator cooling update....just pull the inner cover and look and see if it has a hole in the center of the bolt head. If you want to verify that it has the 2nd update, pull the center bolt out and see if it has the inner rod. Frank D.

To get to the 'front' splines, you take off the 4 nuts (14mm head) that hold the shaft drive unit, and then pull it rearward. You've got a Mk. I, so grease the front splines with heavy molybendum disulfide grease. Avoid the molybendum disulfide grease that is for the u-joints for a front wheel drive car because it's too thin and will run out of the coupling. Most of us also grease the drive shaft front splines (the ones that go into the u-joint yoke).

Jeff, Referring to the air/fuel ratio.......wouldn't you just use an O2 sensor and run a closed loop system? Frank

To avoid a big pile of blown fuses, something you can do is to use 2 jumper leads and connect a car headlight or a tail light bulb to the terminals that the fuse usually goes into. What this will do is 1) act as a current limiting device to keep the current down to a safe level. And 2) give you a visual indication that higher than normal current is flowing. Then you can either start disconnecting plugs and watch if the light stays bright, or as I would do, take a clamp on DC ammeter and measure the current flowing through the wiring harness. You can just follow the path to the short. You may find a friend that works in electrical maintenance that has a clamp on DC ammeter, but if you do purchase one, the prices have come down quite a bit lately. Just make sure that the ammeter does read DC amperes. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pro-series-clamp-meter-hh2002.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=CjwKEAjwq5LHBRCN0YLf9-GyywYSJAAhOw6mq_kdZmaq7IZJa3mGIYFvm9ZdC0uK4iTW6L5GXEOZOhoCM4Xw_wcB

Also, is there any chance you have the battery in backwards? The positive post should be to the left.

I've got the middle gear pinion out of my 89 and I have it apart. My question is......when I install the new oil seal (the one just forward of the u-joint) should I use some gasket sealer (RTV or silicon sealer type) on the OD of the seal or should I just put it in dry? Frank

On my 89, I had random flooding issues when we were heading to a Rally 700 miles from home. Twice it was ok when first started, but after 30 minutes of riding, it would start running rich. I put it on the center stand, disconnected the fuel pump (there is an electrical connector underneath the back of left side cover that can be pulled apart) and then I started the engine and let it run until the carb bowls were empty. Then I reconnected the fuel pump and turned the key back on and pumped the carb bowls full. I repeated this a couple times. The bike ran good the rest of the trip. I reasoned that there was dirt getting on the carb needles and the rush of the gas filling the carbs was flushing them clean again. When we got home I pulled the fuel filter and carefully cut it apart so I could see what was inside it. What I found was that the paper element was no longer attached to the discharge side of the filter and all the crud the filter had trapped could get into the carbs. I installed a new filter and I haven't had that problem again. About a year before all of this I had rebuilt the carbs including replacing the needles and adjusting the floats so I was pretty sure everything else was ok.

I googled "8 amp pigtail fuse" and a bunch came up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/232142707289?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true was one of them. I also saw 10 amp fuses, and for a powerstrip that'd be fine also. Frank D. . I just saw that you wanted a Slow-Blow fuse, so try these http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-8-amp-Ceramic-Pigtail-Slow-blow-fuse-120V-To-250V-5mmx20mm-/201656632795?hash=item2ef3ac05db:g:vmAAAOSw5ZBWHHJB

It sounds to me that something isn't quite normal. Is your carb sync good? A weak cylinder (due to bad synchronization) makes a lot of noises. If all 4 cylinders are running good, the vacuum on the sync. gauges should read about 9.5 inches of mercury. How long did you run it with a cylinder out? Could the oil be diluted with unburned gasoline? Are all 4 plugs good and not fouled? On the video, the clunking sounds serious. Do you have Dingy's latest version of the software? I do have it if you need it.

Yes, the anti dive valves on Mk I Ventures can leak fork oil. When I was riding my 83, I purchased new anti dive valves when they were available, and then purchased used but still not leaking valves. I never tried to replace the seals, but I'd be interested in knowing if that could be done with ordinary 'O' rings. Frank,

Heather, sorry to hear about your crash. Hopefully things go smoothly with your upcoming surgery. Prayers will come your way. Barb and I live about 70 miles SE of Nashville, or about 1/2 way between Nashville and Chattanooga. When are you planning on transporting the bike home? We're going to be gone tomorrow through Sunday evening, but if you'd like help and we're home, you've got it. I'll send you a private message with my cell number. Frank

Puc, A very understandable description!!!!! I hope there's no firmware glitches in the programmer because we'd like to hear how good you're doing at some outing soon. Our prayers are with you and heal quickly!! Frank & Barb D.