GeorgeS

This !! I also do this, shoot some greese with needle attachment every time I have a wheel OFF. So far have not had a bearing failure in the last 30 years !!

Be sure to vote, in 2014 !!! :whistling:

Until you get it greesed up inside the Instrument panel, ( pull out the headlight for access ) you can disconnect it at the front axel, and pull out the Inner cable. This will stop any more damage to the speedo unit itself, untill you get in there and lube the input bushing at the speedo unit itself

Is it a lead acid type ??? If so, remove frome bike, charge for about 6 to 10 hours. Let is sit for 24 hours , then check the voltage with an accurate meter. If dropping below 12V, and if its past about 4 years, well, its probably ready for th bone yard. If its an AGM, basicly the same drill. Charge it, let sit for 24 to 48 hours, then recheck. ( out of bike, or disconnected, of course ) Always a chance that something on the bike is draining the battery, with Key Off !!

I believe these are " Lithium " type batteries. About 2 years ago I talked to a parts counter guy at a Yama dealer. He told me the first year or so they came out they were failing big time. -----------But -- they had been fixed, as he said. The dirt bike racer guys really like them due to the ---- large weight reduction !! ---- But for our bikes, it seems to really be a waste of money. Weight reduction for Small displacement raceing bikes is a Big Deal !!! Keep that in mind. I believe the technology in these things is the same type of bats, that are catching fire, in airplanes, and electric cars. I'm sure you all have heard the news reports concerning the fires. Last week saw the report of a Radar Detector, left on a car windshield, in the hot sun somplace, and the battery Exploded, completly destroying the car dash board ! Also, a few reports of Cell Phones, catching fire due to these batteries. Anyway, I would stick with the AGM Type batteries. They don't EXPLODE !! --- I am useing them in 3 bikes now, and my Ham Radio Installation in my 08 Chev Trailblazer. AGM's cost More, then Lead Acid, but much less then the new Lithium Ion types. Check out the DEKA brand AGM types, Also of note, Harley dealers are now selling AGM's under their own brand name.

First item on this list , would be " heated Grips " The most bang for the buck ! Hands always get cold first. Then get the vest . Anybody have the latest information on the " Warmest Gloves " !! aviallable ???

Cost more , but rears last about 20K. Also the caseing is 1/2 inch thick. Also, consider that longer wear, equals less cost for replacement work, if you hire it done.

Lots of extra " dead weight " being added to your bike ??? :no-no-no:

For about $250 a year, wife and I both use a local gym. Lots more equipment avialable, and don't have to have a large chunk of metal sitting around the house ! Check whats avialable in your area.

Well, a Venture with a V-Max Engine !!! I would pop for that !!! Almost as good as a Venture with a Busa!! Engine !!!

97 I think, 1300 motor, small carbs. I think 01 or 02 went to the larger size carbs.

Before you buy one at O'rileys, be sure its NOT Made in China !! I bought one for the CX-500, AGM type, Only lasted about 10MO. Get the U.S. made DEKA,

No snow in Seattle yet this year, ( which is odd ?? ) . And the really funny thing is, there has been NO Rain!! for the last two weeks !! Yesterday, it was 32 and Sunny, no wind, no clouds, and I actually saw a few motorcycles on the road. For some reason, the bad weather is heading south of here, very strange??

As to handling, what brand of tire's installed ?? If Bridgestones, trash them ---- and get some Metzlers, Avon's or Dunlop E-3's. ( most of us install a narrower size front tire, which improves handling ) Makes it quicker handling. But some guys don't like it. Also, raising the rear end by 1 inch improves handling, I just did this on my 08 RSTD. ( See VRTech Section for info on fabricating a new set of Links to raise rear end ) As to " runnning right " ??? Whats the problem ?? First thing to do, is get a Morgan Carb tune tool, and Sync the Carbs, and drop in a new set of Iridium Plugs. Most of us do this at least once a year. Best change the fuel filter, just cause its a good thing to do. !!! ( Its hidden and hard to get to, so do it in a nice warm garage ) Also, check all the plug caps for the correct amount of Resistance , inside the cap, about 10,000 ohms. Drain the Carb, bowls, just in case there is some crud build up in them. ( A good thing to do ) Down around the battery, and fuel pump, some electrical plugs, pull them all open, and clean the pins of all plugs in that area. Also, the plugs on the bottom of the Electronic Ignition Unit, Its also located Under the battery case, ( Plugs, NOT, easy to get to ) Also, the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, located UNDER the Radiator, Gets hit with Road Wash from front wheel !! Pull out the electrical plug from this unit, Clean the Pins, Re-Install, and Seal it up, with Sealant to keep water from getting into that plug !!! ( This is a Very Good thing to do ) This should get you started !! :whistling: Your going to LOVE this bike once you get it set up right. !! I'm 70 years old, I ride a Hyabusa, and an RSTD !!! I can pretty much throw my RSTD all over the road, fairly similiar to the Busa, (( Of course, it don't go as fast :whistling: as the Busa, )) But for an 830lb bike it " Ain't to bad " !!!!! Just takes some getting used to, but be carefull in driveways, and parking !!! Its Heavy , don't drop it ! Welcome to the group:cool10:

Powder Coat !!! Why, Nobody can see it under there anyway, some primer, and any old can of black paint you have laying around will do just fine. It works, thats all that matters:whistling: :whistling: Cost ? You can get the stands on e-bay for about 15 to 20 bucks plus shipping. A piece of metal to work with about $12.00 at most hardware stores. A spring, about $4.00 And a can of black spray paint about $5.00 If you have a welder, its a pretty cheap project to do. :cool10:

I have noticed in working on many car's and ones I have owned and do own, that the computers are usually in a Plastic box of some kind. A way to, maby , stop the EMP from effecting your equipment would be to wrap the device in some type of metal covering. And of course Ground the enclosure. Same thing with your cell phone being tracked, carry it in a metal enclosure of some kind, and I don't think the NSA could track you. With modern motorcycles ! an engine shut down due to Radar, driveing bye an airport, could be an dangerous situation. Next time I pull the TCI out, I might wrap it in aluminum foil, and wrap that with duct tape Hi Hi. Metal enclosure , grounded, will stop Radio signals !! Well maby

OK, its finished. I made a couple more changes. Following differences to freebirds, dimension's for his Mounting Bracket. Due to bike being raised 1 inch, and me being " old and weak " ( 70 yrs old ) 1. I moved the entire bracket AFT, by 1/2 inch. ie: the Angeled section with two small bolts in it, is Moved Forward by 1/2 inch of Horizontal material. 2. Due to change " 1 " above, the right foot of the stand, would not " Clear " the bottom of the Shock linkage, --- SO:---- I had to move the entire bracket, 3/4 inch to the Right side of bike. This is easy, just drill the two small holes, farther to the left. so bracket moves to the right. 3. I found that the 1st gen stand I bought, was NOT, Level. The Right side was 1/4 inch higher then the left side. So cut 3/4 inch off the right leg, and 1/2 inch off left side of stand. Bike now sits "level " on the new set up. Then, re-welded the feet into position, as per photo's 4. Installed a Spring, and It works !! EASY! to flip the bike onto stand now. As compared to before , shortening the legs, it was impossible for me to get the bike onto the stand. And the push off, is also easy. ---------- One other comment, if you are going to fabricate the Mount , get a 1st gen stand first, and make the Mount the " Width " between the holes on top of stand. This will make Shimming the bolts eaiser, and it will be more stable. Also I suggest useing 1/4 inch material, to make the entire Bracket Stronger. My first one was " Twisting " under load. I had to double up the Horizontal section, and add some extra metal on the vertical sections and Weld that into place. If I was to start over again, I would use 1/4 thick stock material and weld the vertical sections to the Horizontal sections. Anyway, thats my story and I'm sticking to it :whistling: Its, " Not " Raining in Seattle tonight, But!!! its cold !! :confused24:b:confused24:

Something about the last bullet mfg. in U.S. had licence revoked ??? Anybody know details on that ?

Does anybody have an NGK Plug Cap Number, that is a direct replacement for the OEM Caps on a 99 2nd gen. ???

This is why most of us have " Two " bikes !!! In some case's even more then Two !!

55 Oldsmobile 2 door coupe !! ( Mine ) Best car I ever owned !! :stirthepot:

I am thinking about one also, may I ask, what one would have to pay for an RSV tank? Just curious ???

We all feel your pain Sure is beautiful paint !!

Reminds me I need to check mine !!

Would be hard to beat !! About 100,000 milles between valve jobs, and about 300,000 between lower end overhauls. Maby a new clutch every 100K also. I remember hearing about one fellow, ( around 20 years ago this was ) had a 650 twin, that had 3 million milles on it. Useing the above Overhaul schedule !! Not sure where he went, but must have been just about everwhere !! I remember back around 1968, I used to stop in at a Beemer dealer, in Van Nuys Calif, and Droolllllll over the New, " Black " 650's and (well whatever size they were) That were sitting there, which I could not afford at the time In 1982, I finally bought an R-1000. Ahhhh, Seatle to LA, back and forth for 10 years on that bike !!!