Jump to content

tvking63

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    116

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by tvking63

  1. tvking63
    While searching I saw some talk of using a 15'' Vmax rear wheel but couldn't find anybody that had actually done it on a 1st Gen. So, can this be done? Has anyone done it? And if so, what's involved?
  2. tvking63
    I've heard that claim too. I'd love to know how the suspension would be set up differently. Seems more like a bad case of CYA than anything based in reality. True, hence my desire to use a c/t but alas...... (When was the last time you used hence and alas in the same sentence?) I've got about an 1'' of toe-in and a couple degrees of lean out on the bike to get it to be reasonably neutral. So the tire does wear a bit more on the outside. Is there some magic to getting a vertical bike with neutral steering? I'd kill for 8k out of a tire. Great suggestion. I wish I had thought of that. I'd be happy to hear that you've done it and can tell me what's involved. I think I'll make a new thread.
  3. tvking63
    I wasn't sure where to post this. It's about tires, but it's on a sidecar rig and it's got a little bit of darkside throw in for good measure. I decided to put it where I thought it might get the most eyes. I have a '83 with a California Friendship I sidecar. I've been getting about 3k miles out of a Dunlop 404 on the rear. Ideally with a sidecar rig I'd run a car tire but after doing MUCH digging, it appears that a car tire isn't an option with the 16'' wheel. So I'm looking for the meanest, nastiest, live forever tire I can find. It looks like a lot of people are running Avon Vemon's or Dunlop Elite 3's. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I see a lot of chatter about the Avon's cracking so I'm shying away from them, but the E 3's in 1st Gen sizes aren't radials. I don't know why, but I think I should be running a more modern radial tire. Any issues with running bias ply's? I even looked into swapping in a 15'' Vmax wheel but couldn't find any one that had actually done it and there is very little clearance between the swingarm and the stock tire. So even if you could get a Vmax wheel on there, I doubt that I could find a car tire that would clear. Thoughts? Comments? Rude remarks?
  4. tvking63
    I'm going to be out of town for at least another week so I can't be much help right now. Sorry.
  5. tvking63
    I'm interested to see how that goes. If you're having issues with the MAP (I'm not) a TPS might work better for you. I have a CBR1100XX motor that has one on it, but for some reason Honda doesn't offer is as a separate part. You have to buy a throttle body assembly. On the downside, a TPS won't adjust advance based on load like a MAP will. I would think you could run more advance with a MAP because unlike a TPS, it will dial back the advance when going up a hill, carrying a heavy load, ect. even at a constant throttle opening.
  6. tvking63
    That's for the info Gary. I'll have to DL the software and have a look. Somebody downloaded the "with MAP sensor" file today. Is someone adding a MAP to their system? Post up, let us know how it's going.
  7. tvking63
    Good to hear you've got it running pretty well. Using an actual carb sync tool will probably make a big difference though, so you might want to look into that sooner rather than later.
  8. tvking63
    Edited on 10/02-10 Thanks to Dingy for noticing that the wiring change happened in the '90 model year, not at the MKI-MKII changeover in '86. After looking at the diagram further, it looks like a MKI 83-89 uses power on the Gy wire to energize the FP relay and a MKII 90-93 uses ground on the L/B wire. I don't see why that won't work. I still don't understand why the L/B wire isn't connected to pin #3 in the adaptor harness from IgniTech. Had that been the case, you would have plugged it in and started the bike right up instead of all the head scratching. From the IgniTech manual.... Have you tried the L/B on pin #3? I think part of it is that it ran like crap before, but having looked at the map that came with your MKII IgniTech box I can say it's much more aggressive than the one that comes with the MKI box. In fact, I'm a little concerned that it might ping. Have you had a chance to put many miles on it?
  9. tvking63
    I now see chart in the IgniTech manual you were looking at. Pin 2 & 11 say "not used in standard". We need pins 2 & 11 because our V4's are not "standard". On a typical inline 4 cyl engine, 2 pistons are at TDC at the same time. Usually 1 & 4, then 2 & 3. Of the pair at TDC, one is on the compression stroke ready to have the air/fuel ignited, the other at the end of the exhaust stroke. The ignition system fires both of these spark plugs at the same time. The spark on the piston at TDC on the compression stroke fires the fuel and the spark on the piston on the exhaust stroke does nothing since there is just a little exhaust gas in there. Exactly 360° of engine rotation later, the same 2 pistons will be at TDC again, but this time the one at compression and the one at exhaust will be switched and the same 2 spark plugs will fire. The spark on the exhaust stroke is called a waste spark. Manufacturers do this to simplify the system and reduce parts. Only 2 coils are needed, one for each pair of cylinders. On our V4's there are never 2 pistons at TDC at the same time (IIRC) and the degrees of engine rotation until a piston comes to TDC varies from one piston to the next. This makes it necessary to have 4 coils and fire each spark plug individually. That's why pins 2 & 11 are used along with pins 1 & 10. We need to fire 4 coils, each by itself. I noticed that too. On the IgniTech box there are 2 switching inputs to be used for sidestand, clutch, brake ect. Mine is using pin 19 (input 2) for the sidestand and his is using pin 8 (input 1). This could be correct for his bike depending on how the IgniTech box is programmed and I cannot tell without his program which he just sent me. I was looking at that last night. Your wiring is setup to use Input 1 for your sidestand not Input 2 like my MKI. (see above). In the video you posted, I was concerned about the red rectangle in the lower right of the software. This is where the input info, along with other stuff is displayed. I couldn't read what it said and the info displayed there is different than mine because of the different programming. That's why asked you to send me the map file. Now that I have the file I can see that the red block contained the words "motor off". That's why it won't start as you found out. Try setting Input 1 to Kill Switch. That's how my sidestand input is set. That should let it run but kill the engine if you put the sidestand down. Glad you got it figured out!
  10. tvking63
    What I'm seeing is different than what Dingy has or sees. My pin 2 has a gray wire and pin 11 has a brown wire just like saltcreep and the IgniTech manual shows pin 2 is for the #3 coil and pin 11 for #4 coil. In fact I don't see any IgniTech pins that show as unused. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5034628703_54932d0458_z.jpg Looking at the Yamaha 90-93 wiring diagram and the IgniTech schematic I'm pretty darn sure you are wired correctly. You do need to verify that pin B goes to pin 16 and pin 7 goes to pin 14. They are both blue wires and The Crimson Knight already had one where 2 wires of the same color were switched. If those are in the right places then it's not a wire harness issue. The fact that the stock TCI fires the plugs once and the IgniTech box doesn't may just be do to the internal circuitry being different.
  11. tvking63
    On the MKII it looks like the TCI, whether it's the stock one or an IgniTech box, does control the FP. Since that is the case, I cannot tell if the FP is powered on the MKII when you 1st turn the key on or if you have to crank it so the ignition box sees RPM and then powers the FP relay. I would think you would want the L/R wire connected to pin #3 on the IgniTech box. I don't understand why it didn't come that way from IgniTech....... Can you post a pic of the harness that came with your IgniTech box? It should. On a MKI the FP is powered all the time the key is on and only runs when the pressure drops. I would think the MKII is the same, so if you don't want to connect L/R to pin #3 on the IgniTech box, you should be able to connect your L/R to Gy and be OK. That's the way a MKI is wired. The Gy wire goes to #2 cyl coil and to the FP relay. Here is the MKI simplified diagram. Did they charge you anything?
  12. tvking63
    Yes, on my '84 with the IgniTech box, the pump runs when you turn the key on. But it only runs until it builds pressure. So if you turn the key off and then right back on it doesn't run because the pressure is still there. Are you having a specific problem? Does your pump run? What diagram? From where? On your '92 the L/R (blue w/ red) wire should have power on it when the key is turned on. This powers the FP relay which then runs the pump. Here is a link to Dingy's improved wiring schematic for a '92. The FP is on the right side above the color codes.
  13. tvking63
    Yes, Todd is tvking. For what your doing, the first post is all you really need. I try to keep it updated with the most current info. Toward the bottom of that first thread there is a link to my latest non-MAP sensor file. It will make a huge improvement over the map it comes shipped with.
  14. tvking63
    If shipping is astronomical, and you haven't ordered any yet, hold off and lets see if we can find a U.S. supplier.
  15. tvking63
    Dingy didn't get any extra pins either. He was supposed to be getting some from IgniTech, but in the mean time, I sent him mine. It's been 2 months and I haven't heard if he got any yet or not........ To my knowledge, we don't have a part # or a place to get them from in the States.
  16. tvking63
    I agree, the preloaded map is horrible. It makes sense that mileage is still off a bit. The MAP sensor allows for more advance at part throttle cruise which helps MPG. Keep us updated. FYI, Todd has 2 D's.
  17. tvking63
    Any luck Brian? Edit: Oops, meant Brandon (saltcreep) All I know is that you need a different box from IgniTech than is being discussed here. Since you have a '92, you only have one pick-up coil. I'm pretty sure the reasons have been discussed in the thread. Seems logical. If you downloaded a map from the first post today, be aware that you got the one for "with a GM 1 Bar MAP sensor" and if you're following your own advice and saving the MAP sensor installation for later, you downloaded the wrong one. This is the one for "non-MAP sensor" installation.
  18. tvking63
    Thanks for the info.
  19. tvking63
    Any chance you might grace us with the name of the company?
  20. tvking63
    Thanks for the links. Do you mind if I add them to the first post? I don't remember which map I sent you last. What is the name of the MAP you're running? The only ping I ever get is if I get lazy and really lug it from a stop. I might get a 1/2 second or so. If I use the proper amount of throttle/clutch it's not a problem.
  21. tvking63
    Updated the first post with more current info and added MAP sensor info. It's not quite done but it's all I had time for at the moment.
  22. tvking63
    Almost 2v. Right, you wouldn't have to source a sensor, connector ect. Any 1 Bar GM MAP sensor will do. This is pretty much any non-turbocharged GM car. I will update the first thread with the MAP info so look for it there. For those unfamiliar, Bar is a measure of pressure, similar to PSI. 1 Bar is approximately 1 Atmosphere or 14.5 PSI. Yes. That's why I wanted to use a MAP sensor. And I didn't have to fab a way to mount a TPS on the throttle linkage somehow. There are several post with info about the differences, complications and advantages of using a MAP sensor.
  23. tvking63
    Ah, got it. Looks like it worked pretty well. I didn't go that route because like I mentioned in post #100, I thought that the different cam, carbs, gearing ect. might not lend itself to using VMax numbers. I've been looking into this too and am aware of the 12v issue. The IgniTech box would see 12v from the sensor if ground would go belly up, and the IgniTech box is designed to get a max reading of 5v from the sensor. So I contacted IgniTech and they assured me that 12v on pin #6 wouldn't damage the box, so I started some testing. I've been riding around with a DVOM connected to the stock vacuum sensor recording voltages. The way I see it there are 2 problems. First, the voltage swing is pretty small. 1.6v at idle (0% load) and 2.2v key on engine not running (atmospheric pressure or 100% load). That's only a .6v change so small changes in voltage will have to take bigger swings at timing changes. And cruising voltage runs around 2.0v, so you'd have to go from part throttle cruise advance, back to the base map in a .2v change. Second, the IgniTech software will only allow me to reduce the 100% load voltage to 2.5v. This is because, as I've mentioned, the box is looking for TPS voltage which would never be that low at WOT. This could probably be worked around by tweaking the advance numbers though. I'll probably make up a map and give it a try, but on the surface, it doesn't seem like the answer. The only reason I'm looking at this is because it would make it easier for the less technically inclined to install. I'm very happy with the way it runs with the GM MAP sensor. In the next couple days I'll try to update the first thread with MAP sensor details and corresponding map.
  24. tvking63
    Your right. Looking closer, it doesn't match any of my map variants or Squeeze's. I'm not sure what it is or where it came from. Last I talked to Crimson Knight, he had loaded my map and so I thought that what was in his box. I've noticed this too. It doesn't see to affect the way the bike runs though. I'm not sure what some of those setting are for either, but I haven't changed any of them from what IgniTech supplied and yours look to be the same as mine.
  25. tvking63
    You didn't mention it but I assume you know that IgniTech box appears to be programmed with my non-MAP curve and not the one that came from IgniTech. It would be interesting to see the power output of the original IgniTech curve. My "Seat-of-the-pants" dyno says it would be way down on power. That's good to see, since I was programming by trial and error. But remember that the dyno is only measuring power at WOT. (unless it's a brake dyno, but it doesn't' appear to be) At part throttle, w/o a MAP sensor, I'm almost positive the IgniTech box would WOULD NOT keep up with the stock TCI.
×
×
  • Create New...