bongobobny

PM or call him for a faster answer. He may never see your post...

Your issue could be corrosion somewhere on one of the battery cables, especially where the ground goes to the frame!! Also, upgrade your inadequate 1st Gen battery cables with a heavier duty set like Yamagrl sells... Also, there has been instances where the screws on the main fuse get corroded and you will loose voltage there as well!

If he doesn't take it Pegasus I will!!!

Pretty much it depends on what programs are on TV for me to know what day of the week it is...

To piggy back on what Camos said, with the new Progressive springs, due to how the spring windings are, the more they compress the stiffer they get, virtually eliminating the need for the anti-dive feature when stopping. The anti-dive works with the brakes only, and what they do is restrict the flow of shock fluid internally via a solenoid so that the front end does not bottom out when you stop. On your MK1 you have hydraulically activated solenoids which use the hydraulic fluid coming to your front calipers when the brakes are applied. With the MK2, part of the brake improvement was to eliminate the power robbing hydraulic solenoids and replace them with electric solenoids which are triggered by a relay which is activated by the brake light signal. This system was referred to as EAD or Electric Anti-Dive, or sometimes referred to as Electronic Anti-Dive because actuation is via an electronic circuit. When you install the MK2 forks or at least the lower cases from them, you have a few options. You can, as Camos suggested, just leave them in place and simply do not hook up the wires, or hook up a simple SPST 12 volt relay to the brake light circuit (the Yellow wire line), or eliminate them completely with a "Blocking plate" which bypasses the hydraulic portion of the solenoid. This blocking plate needs to have a bypass drilled in it to connect the two ports together, so the easy way is to just leave the EAD in place. There was a member or two that did manufacture blocking plates for the "vanity" crowd but my feelings on it are you still have a hunk of metal there even with the plates... OK, the picture of the calipers are the right ones, but they are the blue dots. Nothing really wrong with them, but if you can find the gold dots they are better! The blue dots use steel pistons which can rust, whereas the gold dots use lighter alodyned aluminum pistons which do not rust and are usually found for the same price as the blue dots. Keep in mind that when you do the swap out, you also have to replace your MK1 front rotors with the MK2 rotors as they are a different size, but the bolt pattern and size are the same so they just bolt right up. The rotor bolts are loctited on so they will have to be heated prior to removal. Use the non-hardening blue Loctite when reapplying. Hopefully, you know that your rear brake and one front brake are hydraulically linked together so you can not use the hydraulic lines that appear in your picture unless you delink your brakes. If you do so then you will need a bigger volume front master cylinder to supply over twice the volume than your current MK1 front master cylinder does. Even if you keep the system linked, the MK2 master cylinder was a larger volume cylinder to accommodate the larger volume needed for the 4 piston calipers as opposed to the stock MK1 2 piston ones. To finish off the braking upgrade, which is the main reason (and pretty much only reason) you are switching out your front forks, is to install stainless steel braided brake lines. The braided lines do not expand in diameter the way the rubber ones do, so, more of the hydraulic power is delivered to the calipers! There are a couple of good sources for ready-made kits. Rick at Buckeye Motorsports, and Earl, member Skydoc_17 come to mind. Although not a direct bolt up, if you keep the linked brakes, buy the kit for the MK2 instead of the one for the MK1 as the MK2 has a bleeder on the long line coming from the proportional valve to the metering valve. This is important because when bleeding the brakes, that line is at the highest point and can get trapped there making it almost impossible to get a stiff pedal! The only mounting issue is that on the MK1 there is no convenient bracket to hold the line there, so you just MacGuiver something. As far as what will or what will not fit, just bring things up one at a time and we will be glad to steer you in the right direction...

On top of that, Carl, 28 years ago on this date, our Pastor and his wife had their first child!

Hmmmm, the first thing is to check if your vent tube is clogged...

Definition of humbug. 1 a : something designed to deceive and mislead b : a willfully false, deceptive, or insincere person. 2 : an attitude or spirit of pretense and deception. 3 : nonsense, drivel. 4 British : a hard usually mint-flavored candy Draw your own conclusions...

Why would any guy want to soak his balls in rum... errr... never mind!

Ho Ho Ho!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS

Yup! I have two relays mounted under the driver seat on that plastic pan...

What you have circled is the upper fairing assembly, the dashboard, the engine cover, and the radiator side cover...

Yup, all Ebay items, good luck finding the right color and in good shape. With these old bikes broken tabs are a fact of life, but all repairable. There are several methods to plastic repair, do a search here as there is a lot of good info to be found...

Tree stumps are good targets to shoot at...

Casey, the real guru on this is former member Dingy!! To my knowledge he still is active on the VMax forum, maybe PM him there. He is VERY friendly and helpful!!

OK, it's been MANY years since I did a slave replacement! Maybe it is just the "middle" cover, but still, you may or may not need a new gasket. Hey, I'm getting old, can't remember breakfast, much less something I did back in '09... Never did the clutch slave on my 2nd gen, just the 1st gen. Did have the stator cover off on the 2nd gen to replace stator...

The Pucster is a good man to listen to, he has taken several Ventures well past the 200,000 mile point!!

Clutch slave replacement is actually pretty easy but it usually requires a new gasket for the stator cover which has to come off to get to the slave. There are two bolts that hold it on, and the hydraulic line has to be removed. The hard part is wiggling and twisting the slave to get it out of where it is mounted, but with the right curse words and proper twisting it finally falls out...

Earl, member Skydoc_17, who is in south central/southeast PA should be able to supply you with needed shims but I don't think he has a kit anymore as too many people used the shims and did not replace them afterwards...

There are a lot of idiots on Facebook... Hey, I'm not saying, I'm just saying...

OK, that's quite the winter project list you got going there!! I'll answer as best as I can, I'm sure others will chime in as well. Front forks. Ebay is our friend, but watch out as not all people are honest. You do not necessarily need the whole fork but you need the lowers at least. That is what the calipers bolt on to. The MK1 spacing is 86 (?) mm whereas the MK2 is 100mm. the internals of the MK2 varied a little in different years but the lowers are the same I think. You're best buying in a pair though and keep track of the year just in case. If you change out your brakes you MUST use rotors from a MK2 as the rotors are different sizes, and the MK2 rotors are vented whereas the MK1 is not. Side fairing guards and radiator cover. I'm not sure what you are referring to as the side fairing guards but once again ebay. We probably refer to them by a different name. Do you mean the crash bars?? They are a dime a dozen usually but make sure they aren't bent. You can put MK2 bars on but they have a different mount tab for the NK2 lower fairing and chin pieces. The main point to watch for is the right one, make sure they do not come close to the water pump elbow as they can, and will, vibrate against the elbow! When a Venture goes down on the right side a very common issue to have the crash bar go into the elbow and put a crack or hole into it! Now by radiator cover do you mean the side covers or the grille? Side covers are plastic, the metal grate rusts and looks ugly. There were some nice aftermarket pieces that fit in where the wire mesh went and look like 3 slits when installed. It is a very common mod to replace the reflectors on the side with lights for safety and looks. Besides the stock grille, there was also a very nice aftermarket grille that had a Rolls Royce look to it, but unfortunately, the chrome plating did not hold up and they corroded and rusted, but you can media blast them and powder coat them! The black box on the right handlebar with the site glass. I'm thinking you are referring to your front brake master cylinder and yes they can be rebuilt and definitely should be!!! There are rebuild kits for them, but the bore diameter is different from MK1 and MK2. If you go to the MK2 brakes (or R1/R6) you should use the MK2 master for a larger volume from the master. Yes, there are aftermarket generic plastic discs out there to replace the site glass. Thrust washer. Yes, the thrust washer was changed mid-season on the '85 year, after serial number 1406 or something like that. The part number is somewhere on this site, or just use the part number from an '86 on. I don't think Yamaha sells the original washer anymore so the part number will be superseded. Not sure what you mean by left and right fairing trimming... Hydraulic brake fluid, you can use Dot 3 or Dot 4, synthetic is better! you need to flush both the brake lines and the clutch lines. Most of us use speed bleeders and a vacuum pump to flush the lines and use plenty of fluid or even better yet, replace all of those 30 plus year hoses with braided stainless steel lines and get an even better than stock feel and performance on both brakes and clutch. Rubber lines swell when you apply pressure, the ss lines do not swell as much resulting in more power going the calipers or in the case of the clutch, the slave cylinder. Speaking of the slave cylinder, chances are very likely yours will be leaking from age and corrosion and pitting. Don't waste your time trying to hone and rebuild them, new ones ar fairly inexpensive, like around $40 or so. The fuel filter is best replaced by removing the rear tire for easier access. Somewhere here there is a list of aftermarket filters that fit properly and have roughly the same specification as the stock ones at half the price or less. It's a good idea to replace your fuel lines as well, the stock ones may look good on the outside but inside they may be disintegrating! Replacing with Yamaha R1 or R6 calipers is a simple bolt on application, but only the years around 2000 fit, the newer ones are a different design. The calipers should be side mounting, not top mounting. There are "blue dots" and "gold dots" and the preferred is the gold dots. The gold dots have anodized aluminum pistons whereas the blue dots are steel which can rust and weigh more. They are very easy and inexpensive to rebuild, which I personally recommend so they will be like new and last a long time! You can also replace the rear brake caliper, but, you need the MK2 caliper bracket and either the Mk2 stud on the swing arm, or machine a larger pivot piece that you can bolt onto the swing arm. Headlight housing assembly. OK another big bugaboo with the MK1 was the dim headlight. A very good improvement is to take that rubber shroud and paint it white with a good rubber paint!! Night and day difference! This is an old school trick that works with any light to make them brighter. White reflects ALL light whereas black absorbs light!! This trick also works on silver housings as well! You would think silver reflects light, but white does a better job! Silver, or gray, is white with a little black added... You can also replace the headlight bulb with a Silverstar bulb for greater light, but unfortunately brighter bulbs do not last as long so you will be replacing them maybe every other year. Now there was a former member who made a really nice adapter plate that fit in right where the headlight goes that allowed for twin projection bulbs! Also, you can switch over to the MK2 headlight but this requires changing the front fairing frame and the piece that holds the left and right upper fairing pieces together. I can't remember if the left and right upper fairing pieces need to be changed out from MK1 to MK2 as well, I changed mine out but can't remember why I needed to as I did a lot of updating to my '84.

Well, not 100% sure on this, but I think the page was started by Prairiehammer a while ago, and he sent us an invitation. If I am right on this then contact him for an invitation, and as long as you are a paid up member you should get an invite...

Yup!! New one on me too!! My first thoughts is a bad crush washer on the oil pan plug, but where the actual drop is occurring is strange...

Best buck a month you will ever spend!! Also, besides the technical info, the friendship here surpasses anything money can buy!!

You may find that a set of alloy rims can be pretty much the same price as the steelies!! Normally I would say Tire Rack but I no longer do business with them!! Just do a little online searching and I'm sure you will find a good deal. Buy local if you can, shipping can be a real MF...