bongobobny

I read some shocking news last night on Facebook, our good friend Snaggletooth (Mike Knofler) is in the hospital! From what I understand his pacemaker is acting up, I didn't even know he had one! Anyway, his daughter posted on Facebook that he is doing OK and is resting in the hospital. So, for those that remember him, I'm sure he would appreciate prayers and good wishes. I know I have enjoyed his friendship through the years! His daughter Ashley said she may join Ventureriders to keep us updated on how he is doing. She says they hope to get him back riding this summer!

That is quite possible, I am just going by the factory wiring diagrams for the '83 versus the '84. Go to the Technical Library and view the schematics at the fuel pump. On the '83 the R/W wire goes to two places on the relay whereas on the '84 the gray line from the TCI goes to the one connection...

Just keep in mind as soon as the system reaches full pressure the pump can't pump anymore so it will stop clicking. 12 volts will still appear across the pump, though...

TRhe thing with Berrymans is with long term exposure, i.e. soaking for several days, can indeed dissolve some materials and do damage...

That is a special conductive paint that makes it work. WAAAAAY Cool, eh?!!?

So the truck is finally fixed???

If you learn one thing from this site, learn that Goose KNOWS what he is talking about!!

While looking at the schematic for the fuel pump relay on the '83 model only, I discovered that the fuel pumps on that year only do NOT shut off after the initial few seconds before the bike starts!!! That safety feature was not incorporated until the '84 on up models!!! So, if you own an '83 your fuel pump should keep clicking and clicking until the fuel bowls are up to full pressure!! I'm sure there is a reason for that safety feature being added after '84, I always assumed it was to prevent the possibility of getting a hydro lock from too much fuel pressure, or in the case of a stuck needle valve staying open. Anyway, the gray line from the number 2 coil trigger from the TCI that also feeds the tach is what restores the fuel pump relay. On the '83 there is no gray wire to the relay, just a duplicate R/W line. That relay is a special relay that has a "Time constant" circuit in it that makes it run initially for a few seconds when the bike is first turned on... Just wanted to pass this on!

Like this?? http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit You can sometimes find them cheaper on ebay, and some distributors like JP Cycles, Dennis Kirk, etc. I'm sure someone else will post a link for a good price...

OOH!! OOH!!! Mr. Carter, Mr. Carter!! I know!! Take a good look at those 4 rubber caps on the vacuum lines for when you sync the carbs!! I betcha one or more of those has cracks on them!!!

Yup, what Camos said! It could also be float level adjustment! Sure sounds like you're getting waaaaay to much gas. What is your MPG? Betcha it is probably only about 30 or so...

If you are referring to the TCI then in a word, NOPE! If you mean the CMU then Yup! All it does is monitor fuel level, oil level, the kickstand status, battery acid level, etc. There is no way, on the other hand, to get spark without the Ignition module and of course the crankcase monitoring sensor or pick up coils as well as the MAP sensor which is referred to as the "Boost Sensor. You can, however, use an aftermarket ignition module that will do the same as the stock one. One of the favorites here is the Ignitech unit which is computer programmable...

Yup, sure has been a while, Gil! Well, I should be doing MD, the International is up in the air, and there is always the WNY Regional Rally in August as well!! Lance is one of my "neighbors" on Farmville2...

IMHO 12 gauge is for the most part overkill... Larger gauge wire is only for increased current handling capacity. For the "safety" circuitry the current draw is very minimal. Increasing the wire size does absolutely nothing but take up more room. What a component draws for current is what it draws period! Larger wire diameter does NOT make it draw any more current!

Not 100% sure but I think that is just for the 2nd Gen Ventures only. The fuel pumps are not the same as 1st Gen...

Very sad! Well, if any good can come out of this situation, at least the gift of life for someone else is...

Nope! Even if the fuel bowls are filled preventing the pump from pumping anymore (you may hear one click) you should still see 12 volts for a few seconds...

They should all flutter pretty much in unison. With the air boxes off the bike will not run that well but should run. When inspecting the diaphragms hold them up to a light and look for tiny pinholes...

Other than the connector to the relay, no you can not clean the internals of the relay. With a voltmeter, measure across the fuel pump first. you should see 12 volts for about 5 seconds or less when you first turn the key on and then zero volts. If you do and no clicks with empty fuel bowls then your fuel pump itself is bad, but on 1st gens that is a little rare. If your fuel bowls are full to the top it will not click... It is possible that there is some corrosion on the relay connector considering how old the bike is...

If you decide on AGM then contact member Skydoc_17, he is a distributor for DEKA and gives you a great price delivered to your door!

Keep watching ebay, you may find a good original seat for less than that...

Hope this finally fixes your problems!! Don't you wish you would have bought a late 60's truck?!!?

You should be happy with it! Keep in mind the "ratings game" for power has really gotten out of hand these days! 500 watts is peak to peak, so divide in half for peak, then divide by 0.707 for RMS or true power, and then divide that by a fudge factor of maybe 1/2 and you will get the kind of power ratings we grew up with!! Remember you have 7 channels so divide the total power by 7 to get the actual power per channel... I have an Onkyo in the guest room that I use but am not real thrilled with. It was a good price new when I bought it several years ago, a 5.1 system...

Yup, kinda common problem...

OK, what Craig said!! The issue could be the jack in the cassette deck OR it could be the connection from the cassette deck to the head unit! By installing a Y adapter as Craig suggested that will eliminate the jack on the cassette deck as your problem. Also, the problem could really be the external connector between the cassette deck and the head unit...