bongobobny

Yes, I read that on Facebook a couple of days ago! My question being just how do we go about proving we were honorably discharged?? I am very interested in this but wonder just how the prices will compare to Wharehouse Clubs like Sam's, BJ's, and Costco...

The PIAA is a great bulb, it's just a matter of Fifty bucks vs Fifteen!! Yes, I usually get my Sylvania Silverstar Ultras at Wally World, but they are available at just about any place that sells auto accessories...

The only way I knew about it is because Ashley sent me a friend request a while ago...

Hey Don, are you going to ask us which brand of oil to use next???

Yup, your mechanic is a DF! The tach is fed by electrical pulses from the TCI output to the number 2 coil...

Yup[, pretty sure that's the dates we decided on, at least the minutes from the meeting say so...

Just one coil. If you hook up all 4 coils it will read 4 times the RPM's. Now, here's a possible issue, each plug fires twice per revolution. The reason for the "fire" on the exhaust stroke is to burn off and residual gas that may not have burned on the power stroke. It's kind of an emissions deal. Your tach may read twice the actual RPM's...

I'm thinking this thread may be the answer... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?127222-Fried-relay-help-please

Gary, give Carl a break, he just traded in his Model T just a few months ago, stepped up to a model B I think...

Nope, no plug. Just hack into the blue line for running lights...

​HAPPY BIRTHDAY to all!!!

Hey, a boneyard is not going to know their a$$ from a hole in the ground sometimes...

Bad coil?? Bad plug wire cap??

Yup, just the 5 amp fuse in the fuse box, I think it is the box in the front cowling. The wires are kind of thin so I wouldn't think about any bigger fuse either...

OK, the first relay you showed with the multipin connectors IS your Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay and Fuel Pump Relay Assembly!! There should be 11 wires all together on the connector, Blue/Black Blue/Red and Black/Yellow for the fuel pump, Blue/Yellow Red/Black Sky Blue and Blue for the SCCOR, Green/Red to the water temp warning light, Black/Red from the oil level switch, Black/White for the low oil level warning light, and Blue/White from the start switch. I looked at the Yamaha Electrical Information pdf and I'm sort of convinced it's on drugs!! Pretty vague as to where things go! From the RSV parts manual here's what I find under "Electrical 1" 40 1UY-81950-92-00 RELAY ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . 1

Ahh, I missed the fact that is also a tachometer, so yes the R/B is probably your gray line. I mistook the dial for the speedometer and the description of the tachometer is misleading on the first page... Of course the description of the R/B wire says "Speed signal" but so does the W/B but it says "THE speed signal!!!"

Myself I liked the Silverstar Ultra, but keep in mind brighter bulbs equal shorter life...

Yes, dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor... That being said, what did you use to polish up the contacts with? Anything too abrasive and you will wear off the plating. Also, sandpaper will put microscopic grooves in the contacts making them more prone to accumulation crud in the scratches...

You didn't accidently overfill at the last oil change, did you?

Yes, behind the plastic center cover kind of in the middle...

OK, it's kind of hard to recognize that roasty toasty looking part but I'm thinking it is the remains of your Starting circuit cut-off relay and fuel pump relay assembly. It normally is mounted with a rubber hanger assembly which slides onto a metal tang. Mine fell off once and laid on top of the engine and partially melted and intermittently put a ground on the circuit which resulted in a couple of red warning lights on the dash, and an unwanted automatic start engine when the key was turned on! So yes, part of that assembly is the fuel pump relay, and the other part is part of the start circuit. Either way, it's a $100 component unless you can find one on Ebay...

Go to the 2nd Generation Tech library and then the guides and parts diagrams, and there you will find a downloadable copy of the factory service manual. I'm sure you will find the information you are looking for there... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?91-Guides-Parts-Diagrams-Etc

You have no idea of how many of us have removed and greased the driveshaft, then reassembled and couldn't figure out why the rear wheel would not roll anymore because the driveshaft missed the U-joint and jammed up in the swingarm...

Oy Vey!! Now you done opened a can of worms!! Now you have to decide what type of bulb and what brand. Then it's the question as to keep with the stock setup or go to HID or LED, and do you want to keep the stock housing or go to some kind of exotic aftermarket headlight assembly which will throw off the looks so you will have to come up with a different or modified fairing, and then you will have to decide do you want to keep it a tuxedo paint scheme or switch to something else. I'm sure this will lead to a to a heated discussion as to which bulb is the best replacement, and which is the proper way to install the replacement bulb. Then there will be a debate as to whether or not the stock wiring is ample enough to properly handle the current load and how to prevent the bulb from blowing again!!! Geez, now you're gonna tell us you have to replace the tires too...

...or a phillips screwdriver!