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Here is a pdf copy of the 2010 Star Yamaha Accessories catalog. It covers all the 2010 Star models Including Stars, Road Stars, Royal Star Ventures, Royal Star Tour Deluxe, etc. I know that at least for the RSV and RSTD models, these part numbers would be applicable to all year models. These part numbers will be helpful if you are searching Ebay or other places for those hard to find accessories. http://www.venturerider.org/manuals/2010staryamaha.pdf

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I'm going to take a step back on my comment that Synthetic oil will NOT cause leaks. I just did some research to refresh my memory and though that it is technically true, it isn't that simple. They say that they early synthetic oils had high contents of esters that could be hard on and deteriorate some types of seals and indeed cause leaks. New synthetics are much different and that is no longer an issue. BUT....while it is claimed that the newer synthetics will not CAUSE leaks, they have been known to FIND leaks. If an older vehicle has some cracked or dried out seals, switching to a synthetic can cause them to start leaking. Many times those old and cracked seals will be clogged by various contaminates from years of use. When you switch to synthetic, the superior cleaning properties can flush that old trash out of the cracks and cause those seals to start leaking. They say that the leaks will usually stop again as more contaminates make their way into the cracks but not always. So, to me that means that yes, switching to synthetics could cause leaks. I don't care what the terminology is. Causing leaks or finding leaks. If it is an old leak that has sealed itself off and synthetics cause it to start leaking again, in my mind, it has caused a leak. That being said, I have never had it happen to me.

There are many reports here about the Metzler tires chunking. I would never run them but if you do, do NOT run them two pounds below the pressure marked on the sidewalls. Metzler has claimed that is what causes the problem with their tires. Many here will never agree on oil but my experience with YamaLube has been opposite of what was posted above. I hate it. First time I had the oil changed on my brand new, at the time, '99 RSV it was done by the dealer as the first service was included in the deal. I left for a trip and actually stopped and changed it out midway at around 1500 miles. Finding neutral had become difficult and the engine was noisier. I went with Mobil 1 for motorcycles and have never been happier. My bikes shift better and seem to have less engine noise than with other oils that I've tried. Plus, if I go over the miles a bit I don't worry about it. I've talked to many others who experienced the same thing with the Yamalube. Not trying to talk anybody out of it that is happy with it but just relaying my own experience. I will never use it again. The old information about synthetics causing older bikes and cars to leak is no longer true from all the research that I have done. I've personally never had that experience and have read research stating that if it ever was truly an issue, it is no longer the case. One last note about the brake pads. If you haven't done so, pull the caliper and check the inner pad on the rear. These bikes have a tendency to wear out the rear inner pad quicker than the outer pad. More than one person have ruined rotors because they looked only at the outer pad and it was good while the inner pad was almost down to metal.

I agree with the Mobil 1. It's all that I use in my bikes and other vehicles. Do NOT use regular Mobil one for cars though unless it's a weight that is NOT marked energy conserving. That will eventually cause your clutch to slip and probably very soon. All I use in my RSV is Mobil 1 Racing 4T. Specifically made for motorcycles. I am not a fan of YamaLube at all and have seen it cause exactly what you are describing with making it hard to find neutral.

Thanks.

My recent 270 mile ride on the '05 RSV reminded me of the should pain that I always got on the '99 before installing the Flanders bars. It is something that I'll have to deal with pretty soon. There have been reports here that the OEM bars from the RSTD work very well on the RSV. Can anybody tell me how they differ from the Flanders bars that are offered for the RSV? Height, width, pullback? Also, are the OEM throttle cables longer than the RSV cables? I know that some folks make the OEM RSV throttle cables work on the Flanders bars but on the '99 I bought some that were 2" longer and prefer to do that.

Nice bike. I'm sure it handles fantastically. Unfortunately, it would probably kill by back if Eileen didn't kill me first.

Thanks. Unless it is available in a rattle can though, I won't be using it. I have a compressor and a spray gun but don't know how to use it.

Original side covers would work fine but the very few that I've found on Ebay have been priced crazy. If I run across a decent set, I'll buy them. Otherwise, I'll just go old school and fab some flat metal covers sort of what you see on dirt bikes and etc. Might look sort of cool anyway. Right now I have to get the turn signals working. He told Dylan that he hadn't figured them out yet and I can see why. He is trying to make them running lights and turn signals and has everything wired wrong. Tail light and brake light works so I just have to come up with the best and cheapest solution to get signals working. He had also replaced the petcock with a on off valve and aftermarket filter. Would be fine except that the gas gauge isn't working either so with no reserve position, I have no doubt that Dylan will run out of gas sooner or later. I found an original petcock on Ebay and ordered it yesterday. At least he will have a reserve again. Gas gauge may be OK but they cut the wires off the sensor in the bottom of the tank. I will try to repair it but they cut the wires off too short to splice them back on. Found a few on Ebay pretty cheap but have to make sure to get the right one. I just think he would have been far ahead to just buy a nice older cruiser that hasn't been all modified. He liked this one though.

I don't think there was a problem with humidity or temperatures. Nothing like that. I think that flat black just behaves this way but I could be wrong. I may wet sand it all back down and then spray it with perhaps a matt black instead of flat. Or even a glossing black and then a matt clear. Still researching it. That would probably be the best thing to do. He called a small local body shop here and asked what they would charge to paint just the tank and front fender. They quoted him $250.00. YIKES!!! I thought that was a bit steep so we decided to try it ourselves. From what little I've researched on the web and YouTube though, I'm not the only one who has a problem with flat black.

I'm not happy with the paint. We prepped it very well. Down to bare metal then multiple standings and a final wet sanding. Very smooth. Then three coats of primer and another wet sanding before doing the flat black. The texture is rough. After the wet sanding, the primed surface was smooth as glass. Four coats of the flat black and now it is almost like a 400 grit sandpaper. Will be easy to mar and scratch much less trying to keep clean. I'm thinking that we should have gone with a regular black and then used a matt clear to achieve the flat look. How about it those of you with some painting experience. What is the best way to get the look that he is after? Flat black but a smoother finish in my opinion would be better.

It is a 1982 CB750SC. Runs great but I still think it's too much for what is essentially a first bike. This thing is pretty quick.

So yesterday Dylan and I started making his bike "his" bike. Still a lot to do but we made some progress. He decided that he wanted it done in flat black. I hate trying to paint flat black because I always have trouble getting it right. From a distance though, it turned out ok. I'm not 100% happy though so may wet sand and try it again. He also sprayed the gold tank emblems and then sanded the raised area so that they are silver. I think he did a good job with that. I still have to fabricate some type of side covers. It's an old bike but it is the look that he wants and I think it will turn out ok.

What you read is true. I used to use way too much of it. I haven't used it in many years now.

The trailer is wired for a different type system. Bikes do have the separate run/brake and turn signal wires. Some trailer that are specifically built for motorcycles have the separate turn signal and brake/running lights but most universal trailers do not. Your choice is to either add separate turn signals to the trailer or buy a convertor that is available at most auto parts stores. Most people buy the convertor. I haven't looked in a long time but they used to run about $45.00 I think.

Looks great. You done good.

Surely they weren't serious about that no smoking stuff.

I agree that there are a number of conversions out there. There were even a couple more back in the day. He claims though that this one was built by the Yamaha factory. Here is a link to the auction that is ending soon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ13D-/231980178586?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3603189c9a:g:eYkAAOSwmtJXYWe6&item=231980178586

I just saw an add in our Ebay listings of somebody trying to sell what they claim is a factory built Yamaha Venture trike. This is the first I've ever heard of such a thing. He does say that he just recently bought it. I'm thinking that he was sold a bill of goods by the previous owner but I may be wrong. Have any of you ever heard of Yamaha actually building a trike?

What better way to get the day going than a false fire alarm at your hotel. That is how mine started today. I probably would have stayed in my room if not for the ear piercing alarm.

Looks great. A lot of work but certainly turned out fantastic.

I certainly agree with checking them again. I don't think I've ever seen one that was more than just a little out of tolerance.

I was afraid of that. Seems like sort of a waste if you only here it with the trunk open. Oh well....this has been kicked around here for years and I've still never seen a great solution for improving the sound on these bikes. We use earbuds and that works great for us.

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