MiCarl

Ok the major problem has been identified: The guy who did the inside low voltage wiring (me) overlooked the connection that lets the air handler know the thermostat is calling for cooling. It was running at the speed for when the thermostat calls for blower only - 600 CFM. So we only had half the airflow we were expecting. Those of you that said airflow were correct. It's not as quiet as it was, but the icing problem is eliminated. Tomorrow we'll double check the numbers and see if we need any refrigerant. Thanks everyone for the input.

Since I rent I didn't want to sink a whole bunch into infrastructure. There was already 30 amps to the roof from an old mini-split and I didn't want to upgrade the electric. That pretty much capped me at 3 tons which should be marginal for the space. The goal was to have it just dump some cool air in the area where I do most of my work. Yesterday afternoon it was 93 degrees and humid. Even with the icing it kept the whole space at a comfortable 75 degrees. It's also whisper quiet.

To be clear: He pulled it down to 300 microns over night. Released some refrigerant into it and pulled it down again. It probably is a low grade builders model. I went cheap: Ducane.

There is a lot of terminology I'm not familiar with. I do understand the basic principles of how the system works. Everything is brand spanking new. The blower was set at 1200CFM (maximum setting) with no duct work at all. There are filter tracks in the cabinet and a filter is installed there. That puts us at 400CFM/ton which falls right in the mid point of the manufacturer spec. I've since moved the jumper to add 10% to the blower output, so I should now be at 1320CFM. It has a fixed orifice. If I understand correctly that is not a TXV. One thing my friend did is use a bit of the refrigerant to flush the lines. I'm wondering if the R410A might be more sensitive to that loss than R22, or perhaps he's used to systems that have a factory charge for a long line set. This unit specifies that it came charged for a 15' line set, which is about what we have. He's panicking about the high liquid pressure, but things I'm finding on the web indicate it often runs closer to 400PSI. The liquid line is luke warm at most. I was surprised because I remember the old automotive R12 systems being uncomfortably hot. The suction line is insulated pretty much end to end so really can't feel it. There is about 1/2 inch exposed at the air handler and I haven't noticed any condensation. It did eventually show frost, which is what made me check the evaporator coil. I don't have the correct tools to measure all the temperatures and air flows. Not sure whether my friend does or not, but he gets prickly about my questions/suggestions. I've about convinced myself it needs a little squirt of refrigerant.

Thanks!

I got a question about the dome and the pipe in the picture. They are ventilation for the dog. Dome is solar vent, pipe is ram air which is capped when stored to keep dirt and critters out.

Since the original problem is solved I'm going to hijack the thread: I just installed a 3 ton split system in my shop over the weekend. The guy who did it is a retired HVAC tech with no R410A experience. This system is running at 330PSI on the liquid line and about 80 on the vapor line at an ambient temp of 75 degrees. I'm having some trouble with the evaporator coil icing. It looks to me like the liquid line should be at about 280PSI and the vapor line at 140 (ambient air 75 degrees). I'm thinking the equipment supplier must have put the wrong orifice in the evaporator. The equipment supplier is telling my friend that the problem is we don't have enough airflow, but the blower is on max speed and we have no duct work, just a filter. Any thoughts?

You're not supposed to exceed the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall. 1st gen tires usually seat pretty easily. They need to be lubricated. I use water with just a touch of dish soap. You want to avoid a bunch of water in the tire, just the bead itself wet. DO NOT USE ANY PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANT.

My trailer is sloped at front. I did it in hopes of reducing drag, nothing to do with tongue weight. I can't imagine that a flat trailer would cause the tongue to lift enough to be a problem. A nice benefit of the sloped front is I don't have to get on my hands and knees to look in there. I don't know whether that slope is an advantage for towing or not. What I do know is that even fully loaded it's easy to forget it is back there.

20 or more years ago I saw the exact same thing, except he wasn't pulling a trailer. The only thing I can figure is the airflow must keep the heat and smell down. Would sure want to bail fast when I stopped. Gotta heat up real fast with the whole underside on fire.

Problem is if the radio looses power it reverts to 9. Then the switch doesn't work and you're stuck.

The switches behind the buttons can get dirty, rendering the button inoperable. While I haven't had the problem with the channel 9 button, my DX/LOCAL switch would only work if it was raining, otherwise always DX. I've had similar problems with switches on the radio side too. All have been resolved by disassembling and hosing the switches out with electrical contact cleaner.

The FRAM CH6002 is also supposed to have o-rings. If you got one without o-rings it was either a production error or someone removed them. Are some dealers really removing the o-rings from the Fram and selling separately? That's pretty low brow in my opinion. The Yamaha filter does not include the o-rings.

Definitely sounds like a ground problem to me because of the number of things effected. If the CMU (Computerized Monitoring Unit - the box that displays all the icons) thinks the bike is in gear and the side stand is down it will disable the starter and ignition.

The CH6002 has metal ends. It's the spin on where there has been concern about cardboard caps. I've never quite grasped why cardboard is a concern when the element itself is paper......

Here is the thing guys: If the dealer has something on his shelf it might sell right away, or sit for months or longer. A large warehouse doesn't have as sever of a problem because over a large geography demand tends to even out. The dealer ties up space and money having items in stock. He needs to charge a premium to survive. You can think of it as a convenience fee. I still doubt your dealer fulfills internet orders. They are likely referred to a large distributor that in turn sends him a sales fee. You can probably shop from the same distributor (different web address) and get the parts for 40% below the site linked to your dealer.

I've seen dealers here do that too. The parts web site isn't really theirs, it goes to someone selling on the internet for MSRP. It's got no relationship to what they do in their store.

That's the way mine is too. Fan will kick on just below the red line. You'll know the fan kicked on because all the skin will fall off your legs.

With table lifts you either jack up the end you are working on or put it on the center stand. Many table lifts have a panel or section that removes to drop the rear wheel through. The challenge with the Harbor Freight lifts is the panel removes but there is a bar across the back so you have to lower the wheel through the hole. That's especially tricky with the Ventures because the wheel needs to come forward to clear the bar. I use one of THESE in my shop. Those folks have a location in Kentwood which isn't too far from you. Very easy to do rear tires on the Ventures because the whole tail of the lift removes (the tail and ramp are removed in the picture). The big drawback to it is it's made in China, so I had to re-drill some holes and chip away some welding spatter for it to work right. The L shaped clamp makes it easy to load the bike without a helper but keeps you from putting anything with bags or long, low pipes on backward. They also have a product called the "blackjack". It's a pretty good jack for the money.

The rubber on the ISO grip protrudes above the metal. Your hands are on the rubber so it's not particularly cold. They're going to be larger diameter than your foam grips. I find the larger diameter to be much more comfortable. One thing to pay attention to, which is in the instructions: You want to orient the grip so the rubber is pointing toward your arm rather than a gap. This improves comfort. That means the one on the throttle side needs to be positioned so it points toward you with some throttle twist. I think I used about 20 degrees or so.

My understanding is that a flashing red is acceptable for a brake light. That's what all those brake light flashers do. But it must be on the rear. I think blue is a no-no on the road everywhere. White might be a problem too. There may be regulations on when amber can be used if it's not a turn signal.

At the auto parts store you should be able to get trim adhesive. It's a thin double sided tape. Put it on your chrome, trim it, remove the backing and install.

If you can, warm up the bike good. The aluminum will expand more than the steel, loosening the grip a bit.

I have the package mine came in in front of me. Kuryakyn ISO GRIPS, CHROME, FOR GOLD WING. Fits: ALL '75-UP GOLD WING MODELS. Model 6180 Gold Wing must have 7/8" bars.

Looks like you have 2 problems: (1) Something is drawing too much current. (2) Your fuses didn't blow. I know Harbor Freight had a recall on some fuses because they were causing fires. A friend gave me some cheap fuses (don't know brand) that didn't blow when they should have. I've gone to only using Buss fuses from the auto parts store.