MiCarl

In the pump there are a pair of valves to bleed air off. I don't remember all the details, but at least one of them opens when it DOES NOT have power. This is so the thing will disengage if the system loses power. If you're interrupting power to the whole test set up it should release the actuator quickly. To really test it you need to stop the pump but still keep both valves closed.

Don't forget to include the "Star-branded iPod touch (8GB)" for the new models.

Any of you folks with experience able to confirm for her that you can pull the rear wheel out from under a MKI without taking a lot of stuff off? Or what additional parts need to be removed (fender etc.). I've always used a drop panel lift with my MKII so haven't needed to worry about it. Yamagrl, whatever you use for a stand to hold the front end up needn't be very heavy duty, it's pretty well balanced when on the center stand. On my MKII I can pull the front axle and the bike will tip back onto the rear tire without anything to hold it up. Of course I put something under to support it in case some bone head leans on it or something...... You should have some moly grease on hand to lube the drive splines. Not a bad idea to pull the final drive off and grease the drive shaft splines, also with moly grease. You'll need something to pry the oil seals out. If you've been doing any wrenching you probably have something that will do it - tire iron, old screwdriver etc. Getting the bearings out of the wheel won't be any fun. Have something to support the wheel while you drive them out. Set it on a couple milk crates, cut a hole in your work bench etc. Then use a sharp punch to catch an edge and drive them out. Of course if you have a bearing puller (not an inexpensive tool) it will be easier. You'll also need a tool to drive the new bearings home. One trick I've used is placing the old outer race on top of the bearing and pounding against that. I grind the old race just a bit under size so it won't stick in the hole. Again, there are proper tools available for the job.

I learned about that left side collar when I ordered a new bearing to have in for the trip to Maintenance Day. Pulled it apart Wednesday and found out that the bearing wasn't the whole deal. Had to order the collar from the stealer + huge overnight fee to get it put together for Maintenance Day. That's why I'll never forget it again!

Tight coils up results in a bit less unsprung weight. That's the way to go.

You will need #15 oil seal. Sorry I missed that. The right side bearing is a complete sealed unit. The collar is not part of the bearing like on the left. It's more of a spacer, but the oil seal does run on it. Unless it's been chewed up by dirt in the seal you shouldn't need a new one. It should be cleaned and a light coat of general purpose grease on the outer surface that the oil seal runs on.

#5 is the right side bearing. You'll also need #3, #4 and #7 for the left side. #4 is the inner race for bearing #3, and you'll ruin the oil seal #7 taking it apart.

I don't know of any reason not to go ahead and start it while it's still clicking. Unless you've drained the bowls or it's been stored for a very long time there should be plenty of fuel for it to fire up.

It only runs until the pressure comes up or the timer expires. If the motorcycle has run recently very few clicks would be normal.

There are enough deer and rabbit around I'll be able to eat until the ammo is gone.

You can only buy shims in 0.05mm increments. What this means is there will be only one shim selection that will be in spec. Example: Your intake valve clearance is 0.11 mm with a 2.60 shim in it. The next thinner shim is 2.55 which will take the clearance to 0.16mm - too loose.

You do realize the whole point of the Yamaha arrangement is so fuel doesn't dump out when it warms up and expands? Is the risk of spilling fuel really worth getting an extra pint in there?

That's a good suggestion. Might I recommend a hardwood dowel for your extension? Wrap a rag around it or wear a glove so you don't get injured if it splinters.

They just slip down from the top. There is a wire clip below them that holds them up against the upper tree. They have o-rings to seal them to the forks and they hang on pretty tight. I usually hold the ring and twist the fork tube back and forth while pulling it off. No need to disconnect the air lines. Make sure you don't lose the foam ring from on top - it likes to drop down behind the radiator grill.

That looks outstanding! I'd like one 5" - USA shipping.

And it doesn't take much to make a bunch of smoke.

Not every day you can get your firewood split before you cut it up.......... Shouldn't have to worry about bark falling off in the living room either.

Helping you HiJack. Yes you can, if the GPS has a headphone jack. At least on a 1st gen. Assuming you're not using the cassette deck you can simply wire the audio out from the GPS to the cable from the cassette deck to the radio unit. Turns out a signal on that wire will cut off the radio and play through the amp just like the CB does. If you want to be able to use the cassette deck I did a write up several years go on tying directly to the passenger intercom connection. That article should be in the electronics section.

According to my reference Yamaha would pay 6 hours warranty time to do the job. Most shops mark up warranty time 50-100% for retail customers. Their hourly rate seems reasonable too. If they're going to do it right it's a very good price. They might be making a good profit on the progressive springs. Not much extra labor to drop them on a fork seal job.

Wow! One brand allegedly didn't work so all aftermarket seals are bad. I've been using K&L seals for five years and never had a problem with one, including on 1st gen Ventures. A pair can be had for under $20, less than half the price of a Yamaha branded seal. I've also installed All Balls seals where a customer provided them. I have started refusing to install them though because they always seem very difficult to drive home. Not aware of one ever leaking though. I did have a set of All Balls dust seals on an inverted fork that kept climbing out, ended up going with factory dust seals on that one. I'm not aware of any place to get dust seals for your bike other than from Yamaha. Unless yours are in great shape they should be replaced too. Of course any seal will be short lived if it's installed improperly or the tube is damaged.

I haven't been following your other thread. If you think it's seized why are you trying to use the starter? Pop the timing cover off and try to turn it with a wrench. That way you can go gently and backward too. Did you try to turn it with the plugs out? If it really ran a month ago but is seized now it's likely a major problem. If it had a cylinder hydro-locked with fuel you might have got the deal of the century.

I don't think you can. You're going to have to order piece parts. Best to go through them and make a list of anything you need.

If you keep the electrolyte level up and don't let them sit discharged they often last a very long time. My lawn tractor is 16 years old and I have only replaced the battery once. Only had the Venture 5 years, so don't have any metric for how long they can last. I believe most lead acid batteries die an early death from neglect.

There's your answer. Pop for some good springs.

Before you do anything make sure it's the toilet. In my house when the shower is running in one bathroom it sounds like water rushing through the pipes in another. They aren't even on the same run. Something about the lay out is just piping the sound around.