CaseyJ955

I got a decent price from Dennis Kirk on the E3 tires for the gen 1.2. I think it was about what the Amazon price is. If they get any cheaper I'll snag a set for the Vmax too.

I have always found that somewhat rude, although I know it is usually not intended as such. IMHO it's in good taste and respectful to use the language of the land or take care of your own interpreter. Cultural relativism plays a big part in these things also. What I really hate passionately is having to dial 1 to continue in English! I have done my best to learn Tagalog and Ilonggo as I know I will be spending time in the PI fairly soon and every year. I cant really speak it but I do understand a bit and I continue to learn more from my wife. Just as I enjoy that respect here I'm prepared too show that respect to the best of my ability once I am a guest in the PI.

Royale with audio is nice. I have an 89 Royale with the CB and stereo. I have yet to install the headphones into a helmet and really try that out but if audio is important and you have a nice standard my guess is you could find a marine audio solution that would take up less space and be more advanced than the elderly OEM unit. I'm going to use the OEM stuff on mine since it's there and works. I'm not sure whats entailed in maybe moving it from one bike to the other, if the harness will accept it or if it is much more detailed than that.

+1, If I'm going to sit in front of the screen I'll either be here or the Vmax forum stirring up trouble or playing Path of Exile, or Dying light, or Far Cry, or just cranking up some music. As a nearly 50 yo male that is not a social creature I'm not the target demographic for FB. I can, however, spend some time in front of Youtube watching sportbike vs cop videos. I think it really appeals to my defiant side.

I spent 15 years living in and around Seattle and the Pacific Northwest. One year I couldn't take it any more, I abruptly pulled rank, sold the house and moved us with no discussion or negotiation. I could literally not take another year of the The damp, wet, soggy, dreary, gray, depressing, soupy, chilled to the bone, overcrowded, trafficky, rude, overpopulated, congested, lines of people in every business... did I miss anything .Then wife didnt want to move but being a gentleman I gave her the option to stay behind . Who says chivalry is dead? Once I made a list of pros and cons I decided that 10+ months of was infinitely worse than ~3 months of and the rest . I miss the various cultures and food scene but all things considered it was to get the heck out of there! I hate to admit it but I could do without -40, but I like snow and enjoy having 4 honest seasons. Life is too short to not enjoy where you are IMHO.

Thats insane, I hope your staying warm! Officially RC got to -18 but it was -21 up here. I'm in the hills a little outside and up West of RC. -37 is nuts, I never realized it was that much colder east, I know you get a bit more snow than we do.

The Black Hills are awesome but this spring I'll be moving either east closer to you or up into ND. Either way it will be colder, but less people! As you probably know I'm close to Rapid City and it's seriously overcrowded here. I'm okay with the cold if it comes with some GD peace and quiet!

It was -20 yesterday here but not much wind. When I got up this morning there was a heat wave, it warmed to 3. It might get to the high 30s this coming week. When I was a kid I remember it hitting -40 a couple times here but it's been a lot of years since we got that kind of cold. Some years it can be bitter and harsh while other winters we dont even spend much time below freezing.

I like steel wool in severe cases but a toothbrush and some solvent usually get pistons nice and clean. The inside of the bore has to be clean to. I have always used a hone stone on a drill but only when using new seals. One thing I recently learned is that I may be able to do this without installing new seals, guess I'll inspect and see. If your pistons and bores are not nice and clean it could still be holding a slight bit. There is not much room for gunk in there and pads have only to barely move to release the rotor. It's normal to hear the pads touching the rotor when you give the wheel a nice spin, but it should still spin a few times before stopping.

I saw that and I to was confused by it. I didnt see any real information on it except another site that discussed the top 10 "outlaw MCs" and other honorable mention, but we already knew about all those. If they are 1%ers I'm sure you will notice the 1% patches.

Todays HD guys are not as quick to poke fun, most of them know the food chain of bikes has changed dramatically over the last 2-3 decades. Assuming it's not a 1% MC it might not hurt to take a ride or do whatever the function is you were invited to do. If there is a tude' it should be apparent before long. Might make some new friends, never know.

Exactly what he said. I hear the OEM brake lines will last forever but an aftermarket could be one from China. My experience with Chinese parts is they can start to deteriorate rather quickly. It might be worthwhile to check and make sure the line is patent in both directions. I have yet to experience this on a bike but seen it on cars/trucks a handful of times. The line can act like a check valve r/t coming apart internally then cracking open the bleeder screw should release said pressure and reduce the amount of drag on the wheel. Then it could be the line or MC but it would rule out caliper if releasing fluid pressure via the bleeder causes the caliper to relax. I was not aware of a return vacuum created by releasing the brake lever, I thought the caliper piston return was handled by the piston seal, and the release of the lever slid the MC piston back opening up the fluid return port allowing that very minute amount of DOT3 to re-enter the MC reservoir (assuming the reservoir is not overfilled). I may have that wrong so someone with more experience than I may be able to give a more definitive answer on exactly how the pistons retract. IIRC pads will only retract around 0.004" in most hydraulic disc brake systems.

I would start to suspect the line, but sounds like it's pretty new (relatively). What happens if you crack the bleeder screw while it's dragging? does it free up or continue to drag. It's the fastest way I know to isolate a brake caliper/WC from the master and lines and try to narrow down the problem. Does yours still have linked brakes with a proportioning valve for the rear?

Here is a good article on jetting from the Vmax forum. It's probably a great jumping off point for snagging the first few sets of jets, one thing I learned on my Vmax is definitely avoid Dyna Jet kits for the Yamaha V4. They get it way to rich and in spite of the Vmax heads and cams it runs best a tad on the lean side. One thing I dont know is if Vmax needles will work properly on the Venture carbs (34mm vs 35mm, otherwise identical I believe). Some of the aftermarket needles have the 5 notches, and with a needle shim kit I would imagine enough adjustability to make it work awesome. Vmax jetting discussion. http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1024 I got my cheapest jets from Sean at Morleys. I'm thinking the experience I have gained dialing in my Vmax will serve well in getting this conversion done on the Venture. I noticed OEM parts/gaskets/seals et al very reasonably priced on boats.net also, maybe head gaskets too. FYI for anyone embarking on jetting, you may or may not know that jets sizes are not alike. The MK and DJ jets are numbered differently. I'll post up a conversion chart below in hopes that it will be handy and avoid confusion, ask me how I know Also I'll put up an illustration of the different needles commonly available for Vmax. I'll be trying the FP (factory pro) needles in my Vmax next. I have had stage 1 and stage 7 now. I do not see myself using DJ needles on a Venture, they are just to damn thin for any MPG. I think for the Venture I'll try stock Vmax needles or FP needles and leave the slides and springs stock for best MPG while still allowing for proper vboost operation and the extra RPMs at the top. I dont have an image of the Venture needle so not sure how it compares to the OEM Vmax needle. I'm not sure if shimming would make a stock Venture needle work well with Vboost. If one does buy a Dyna Jet kit for the Vmax to jet a Venture, it will include stage 1/7 springs and a drill bit for drilling out the slides. I know I wont be doing this on a Venture, it causes the needles to come in closer to 3k rpm rather than the stock 4k rpm. I cant see this helping MPG. Because I'm going to use Vmax heads and cams I'll probably start with stock vmax needles and jetting, or leaner. The Vmax is jetting a little rich from the factory and stupid rich if you use a Dyna Jet kit. I know others have jetting for this and I would hope to also learn from their experience (and altitude) on what it took to get it running as it should. I'm really anxious to see how much it will be like jetting a Vmax.

Sometimes muscle relaxers are magical with these sorts of things. Few things can really rival back pain caused by a, ummm gravity storm. Glad to hear your feeling better, dont push it too much too soon, sounds like you'll be good as new after some rest. At least your not missing any prime riding season!

Thought I might roll it up to Custer and back to see if they loosen up. I delinked the brakes at the same time I installed these calipers. On the rear I used a front right R6 caliper. The pedal is firm but not to much so, definitely better than before the delinking. I removed the spring and plunger from the proportioning valve and plugged the front like outlet off the rear MC. Other than a slight drag on the wheel it works like a charm. The drag is less than with the OEM calipers which were dragging a bit more. I hope that was what was causing my 25mpg issue. On the front one of the OEM calipers was dragging notably, enough that removing it was a hammer and brass drift affair. The rotors are not showing any heat discoloration or excessive wear. Well I delinked with a Vmax splitter and some braided lines. In order to bleed the brakes I had to use vacuum to pull the fluid down some then I could bleed in the traditional way. The fronts were a chore. MC holes are all clear and clean. Now that the fronts are bled the lever is pretty firm where as before it was squishy, sometimes squishy enough to nearly bottom the lever against the grip, so I was both pleased and surprised that it firmed up so nicely. maybe even a little to firm, which I attributed to the pistons not retracting when the brake is released. If riding it and getting the calipers nice and warm with some use loosens them up then I'm golden. I'm assuming with aged used calipers it might not hurt to go ahead and clean them out. I know when calipers sit on the shelf any residual fliud continues to pull moisture from the atmosphere and leave a nasty sludge inside, starting to think thats what happened here. My antidives are electric solenoids, is there something I need to do with them during bleeding? I thought the older ones were hydraulic but I cant say what year they were changed. Mine is 89. EDIT; On the front MC, it's stock, I thought the gen 1.2 had a slightly different MC than 86 back but dont quote me on the years. It's too firm now so when the calipers loosen up I'm assuming the lever will soften slightly. I hope it will stop this heavy turd, I may just go with some new R6 OEM pads, I'm not finding much in the way of EBC non HH. I hope the R6 pinchers will provide enough extra gription to call adequate.

It all sounds like a good plan. When it warms up above the -5 it was today I'll start plucking calipers and going through them. Ordering the pads now. Thanks!!

yes, these are from 99-03 I believe. I used front right and left to replace my fronts, and a front right to replace my rear. Oddly enough, I was able to bleed the rear with the caliper mounted in place. Come to think about it, now that they are bled out the lever is pretty firm, almost no give, which would indicate the pistons are not retracting the .004" or so they should when the brakes are released. With the brakes linked and bled they were soft, squishy and inconsistent. I'll pull each caliper and use air to pop the pucks out so I can get a good clean inside and around. I'm not sure how long these calipers were off the bikes before I bought them and I know DOT draws moisture from the atmosphere quickly so they could have been nasty inside just from being shelved. I'll order the new pads and take em' off and clean em' out. Still hoping I wont have to hone/kit any of them. I doubt they are very mile-heavy, I havnt seen to many R6s stack up tons of use and the pads look OEM and pretty darn good, so I'm guessing just gunk from being stored. Using the old seals, is there anything I should use to prelube them during reassembly? Are we using the HH pads or whats recommended for a good long life, decent stopping power and priced right? Thanks again for all the info, I hope this will help others save a couple bucks around brake-O'clock as well.

That sounds reasonable, I think TCI replacement is a good place to not cheap out considering all the other work going into it. Besides I may very well want to be able to alter spark curve and timing which I guess I cant do with the OEM box. I have an 85 Vmax TCI but I think the Ignitek would be best also, I could run resistor free COPS then also. The Vmax vboost controllers are pretty iffy also, they can often be fixed with re-soldering the input beads on the PCB but I would just as soon integrate the better tech and more tunability. I'm going to have to agree with you here. I should be just fine after I sell the Vmax boost controller, TCI and the TCI off the Venture. I thought about the cable to but I would like it to work as a stock Vmax would in that regard. I have most of what I need to do the conversion except this and the air box.

I have a general question about brake calipers. I have been servicing my own brakes/clutches for a looong time but I have never taken one apart and reassembled without kitting it. I have read a few posts about guys "cleaning the pistons" and I'm feeling around to see if anyone has had real luck pulling the calipers apart, cleaning internally and resembling without honing and new seals? Assuming of course lack of significant wear which would obviously require the above mentioned kitting. I just hung R6 calipers all around and after bleeding they seem to drag a bit to, but the pistons seemed to move ok before install. Maybe I need to pull them and do some cleaning, or just put a few miles on them to see what happens since I just slapped them on with the old pads and all (I plan on the HH pads later on). Any input welcome. Normally I would have just kitted them and installed the new pads without pissing about but $ is all tied up elsewhere and the pads/calipers seemed in very good shape, so figured I would roll the dice. It seems counterintuitive that a caliper can be disassembled, cleaned and put back together without leaks but if some of you folks have been able to do just that I would love to know. If I pull the calipers I'm putting new pads in but I would really rather not spring for the kits if I can avoid that $200 expense, also if I do need kits are there any other than the spendy OEM kits that are quality and not from China? I have rarely had good luck with non-OEM items on Japanese vehicles. BTW they are the blue dot calipers from an R6, not sure that makes much difference. Thanks for input!

Please forgive me for beating the dead horse, It recently started getting cold here and I noticed AF pooling up under the bike. I read through all the posts about the O-rings getting old and leaking when cold but it looks like that coolant manifold is fairly easy to remove so I'm going to go ahead and pull that and replace O-rings. My question is do I need the OEM O-rings are am I likely to find some in the vast assortments of new O-rings I have. Just want to check and make sure they arent shouldered, beveled or anything that will preclude me from being able to reassemble with the universal assortment I have, or can easily buy in town. Thanks folks.

I would have to note that the whole powersports market has been really soft for awhile now, and that it's the season that makes bikes even cheaper. I see he's asking $2500 on CL and $1500 here. I would say for the lower price it's well worth looking at. I rebuilt my forks with new OEM bushings, seals and covers for $155 in parts from boats.net , plus $85 shipped for progressives, which it turns out I didnt need because it already had a set installed. I put the new ones in anyway but if someone wanted to try out a set of used progressives they could have them quite cheap. For $1500 with no major problems, and carbs reworked already, not sure how you can go wrong unless there is something the pics dont show. I paid $2050 for my 89 and proceeded too throw more money and time into it, still feeling good about what I got for what I paid, probably went overboard on getting it ready for touring. If I were still on the market and near it I would go check it out.

Aaawww at least you dodged that creepy old guy thing then and get too be cute.

Really glad your taking steps in the right direction. I'm sure your taking it better than I would. So how long will you be incapacitated?

Awww I just LOVE 2 cycle and Rotary engines, either of which perform admirably well. Whichever way it goes, pneumatic, hydraulic or electric it should be very cool. My guess is you could use any of those. I wonder what spring pressure vs a conventional camshaft engine. I also wonder what happens when these things wear and need to be replaced, how labor intensive would that be. On my current car the intake has to be removed to replace the starter since it resides between the cyl heads in the valley. I wonder if any service of this system would require pulling apart the top half of the engine or just the VC. Abolishing the venerable timing belt service intervals would sure as hell be nice though, wouldn't it?