Bob K.

I wish! I've had the same 3 caps since I purchased it from the PO in 2001. Never purchased or used any extras. I'm guessing that the PO lost one in the black hole and it recently came loose from the black hole & fell down by the twinkie between #1 and #2 . Just discovered it after a 1,300-mile cross country.

I found a random rubber carb sync port cover down in one of the crannies near the twinkie. My manifolds 1, 3, and 4 have the port covers in place and manifold 2 has the vacuum line. I'm not sure how in the world this random one ended up there and I don't see how I could have missed it after the detailed inspection and cleaning I did during the refurb a couple years ago. Is this same port cover used somewhere else on the bike that I'm not aware of?

Still working great after thousands of miles: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?135294-Fuel-filters-for-86-93-Ventures&p=1048371#post1048371 There are probably 10 different sellers selling this same filter under different names and quantities.

Awesome idea. Thanks! I do indeed fuss with the battery and what's near it far more than I fuss with the solenoid, and that trick will help a lot.

Is this what you're referencing...3 white wires? And by "hardwire", do you mean get rid of the connector and just solder the 3 white wires all together or all separately? Is that a common fail point?

Are your positive wires butt connected into the battery cable terminal or are they on separate ring terminals that are on the solenoid stud & held in place by the nut? Also, are those components individually protected with standalone inline fuse holders or do you then route those positive wires to your fuse block?

For the life of me, I can't find a fuse block that will handle more than 30 amps per circuit, so I'm going to replace the MAIN fuse with a 10AWG ATM fuse holder and a 40 amp ATM fuse. I had hoped to reduce the number of connectors I have stacked on the battery's positive terminal, but it doesn't look like that's going to happen.

The CLASS glass fuse holder is right next to the main fuse box. Any chance it got bumped, damaged, blown, etc?

The good thing is that you now know your oil level indicator is working correctly. I've heard of others checking to make sure the oil level indicator is working properly during an oil change and I'm going to incorporate that into my maintenance habits, too. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?36857-oil-pressure-light-came-on&p=347160#post347160

According to the owner's manual, the LED indicator on the CMS Display panel is an oil level indicator. Is that the one you're referencing? Mine will flash briefly as well for a couple seconds during WOT acceleration to redline. I keep my oil level in the middle of the sight glass.

I'm working on purchasing a replacement "do it all" fuse block. I want to purchase a 12-circuit fuse block to replace the MAIN fuse (40 amps), the 5 glass fuses, the CLASS fuse, and 3 other accessory inline fuses I have installed & attached directly to the battery. Everything I find is only rated for 30 amps max per inline circuit. 1. Why in the world does no one manufacture a mini (ATM) fuse block or a low profile mini (APS) fuse block? A more compact ATM or APS fuse block would fit a lot better on top of the battery than an ATC fuse block. 2. Why in the world does no one manufacture an automotive or marine fuse block that can withstand more than 30 amps per circuit? Yes, I know I could just replace the MAIN fuse with a standalone inline 40-amp blade fuse holder, but I want to incorporate it all into a single fuse block if I can. 3. The MAIN fuse circuit wire looks pretty skinny to me. Has anyone actually measured it? Is it actually 10AWG?

O.k. I'm sorry my memory is failing me a little. I had the rear tire off, the right saddlebag off, and the right crash bar off. In my case, I don't think those things had to be off in order for me to take the petcock out from the bottom; however, I know I didn't have to do anything to the tank. After breaking the seal loose from the bottom of the tank, I canted it slightly to the side in order to allow it to snake between the frame rail and the swing arm. If you figure out what the difference might be with our two bikes, will you let me know?

Mine came out from the bottom on my '93...snaked down beside the frame. I had the rear tire off at the time but if memory serves me correctly, I deduced at the time that the rear tire didn't need to be off. I specifically thought about that because I had asked someone else if I could get it out from the bottom and wanted to share my experiences with others. Does it seem like you'd have more room on yours with the tire off?

Interesting. In your case, measuring at the spot on the lobes where Yamaha directs us to measure resulted in an incorrect valve lash for that particular valve. Were there any indications that that lobe was worn oddly or machined incorrectly?

Ah, got it. You were talking about the valve stem not the cam lobe. I'm trying to follow your explanation. Your claim, if I understand it correctly, is that the only way we can determine valve stem stretch correctly is if we take the measurement from where Yamaha tells us to take the measurement on the lobe...which is in a different place for Cyl 1 & 3 than it is for 2 & 4. Does that mean that Yamaha thinks the valve stem stretch would be different between the front and rear cylinders and that's why Yamaha is having us measure in different places on the lobes?

If "stretch" is a concern, why would Yamaha have us measure at a place on the lobes for Cyl 1 and 3 that is different from the place on the lobes for Cyl 2 and 4? It seems to me that if "stretch" were a concern, we'd measure from the same place on all lobes...the location most likely to "stretch". Plus, I'm unaware of any measurements for "lobe stretch" in the service manual.

(For archive's sake). Yes, I believe it is. Yamaha already has us measuring at different points on the base radius of the cam lobes depending on the cylinder when describing the official way to check clearance, so I see no reason why measuring anywhere on the base radius--including straight up--wouldn't give the same results. Here are some pictures for contemplation: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33290-Proper-way-to-measure-valve-clearances&p=1046013#post1046013

Here are some pics you can use for confirmation. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33290-Proper-way-to-measure-valve-clearances&p=1046013#post1046013

1.5 years and several thousands miles on this Hipa fuel filter. Still working nicely. I'd say it's a proven replacement option for our bikes.

Another thing that really helped me was making little chits to represent my existing shims (little square pieces of paper with the shim number on it). Then I could easily move them around on the piece of paper in order to see where else I could utilize them. That also helped me ensure that I only bought new ones to cover what I didn't already have. Oh, and I wrote down and stored the shim numbers in every position. Because I didn't have this data to start with from the PO, I had to go through and pull every shim out one by one to see what size it was before I could then make calculations and buy necessary new ones.

Your service manual will have the specifics for your particular model. For the Venture, I'm satisfied with ensuring the cam is anywhere on the base radius of the lobe: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33290-Proper-way-to-measure-valve-clearances&p=1046013#post1046013

Three options: If it's on "On" or "Res", just leave it if you don't think you need access to the other two settings. Take the faceplate off (two screws), pull it all out and see if you can clean it up & lubricate the seals. Be advised that doing this might result in damage to the seals or leaking upon reassembly. That's what happened with mine. Buy replacement parts and rebuild it. I think it cost me about $6 to $10 in parts and shipping.

I've tried to learn this lesson more as I've grown older: If I'm that far into it, just spend the few extra bucks.

Perhaps too much fuel from the enrichers at that point in time? I start my '93 with the enrichers at about the 3/4 position. Full open always seems to be too much for that temp range (50 deg). As the RPMs surge and within 15 to 20 seconds, I slowly close the enrichers to keep the RPM at around 1500 to 2000 RPM until I get moving and then completely close the enrichers within a few blocks. Once warm it idles beautifully with the enrichers fully closed. My theory is that as the motor warms up within the first minute, I'll end up too rich if I don't slowly close the enrichers. I don't know that I've mastered the technique either. Like you, if I don't get it right the first time and it stalls, I have a more difficult time getting the bike to high-idle regardless of the enricher position, and usually have to goose the throttle several times to clean up the fuel/air mixture. I'm not sure if that's because I'm too rich or too lean at that point.

Probably. I just flushed and bled my clutch and then drove it like I stole it for about 2 hours. No clutch problems noted. It works very nicely now.