Flyinfool

Check for a cracked trunk floor that could be flexing and moving. I read of one person that had a weld break in the trunk mounts.

I wonder how many clutches he goes thru in a year????

To tee off of the vent line will help a little but not much. The limiting factor is the size of the hole where the tube goes into the tank. By adding the Tee all you are really doing is shortening the length of the overflow tube to get slightly less parasitic drag from the tube length. It would be a lot of work for very little gain. The amount of gain may only be theoretical in size. And as has been mentioned, you will only pick up ~5 miles worth of gas. It would be a lot easier to carry one of the small sealed gas bottles with a quart or half gallon of emergency gas in a corner of the saddle bag. That will at least get you 10-20 miles. Then there is the safety issue of removing the expansion air space that was designed into the gas tank.

17 years ain't far from forever. Besides, its red........

I was specifically looking NOT for a 6.0. I don't need the power or the gas bill of the 6.0. My RV fully loaded is only 5800 lbs and I only pull it once or twice a year and then only about 300 miles. This 5.3 has more power than the 350 in my old truck. This one is exactly what I wanted to fill my needs. I only go thru a couple of arm loads of fire wood a year so it will haul all of the wood I need. I think it's around 7600 GVW. I like it.

The radiator does not have to come all of the way out. I am not completely sure on the right exhaust pipe or the t'stat housing since I did my starter "while I was in there" replacing the t'stat housing so the housing and right pipe were already off. At the time I just did the ground mod to the starter. If my new Deka AGM and 4ga wires do not eliminate the slow hot start then I will be back in there for the 4 brush starter.

Don only said he would draw the winner. He never said he would you who it is. Besides, I haven't been home all weekend for him to call.

Even though it is a cinema production, and many teens will spot that and go into denial mode, every teen should still see it.

Must be a tall fuse block. The kit from skydoc fits in the stock location.

It would fit, But I would have no reason to put it there, and no way to get it there or back out. At least not in one piece.

It took me 3 months of searching a 500 mile radius to find an ext cab, long box, 4x4, 1500, that did not have a 6.0l engine and was in decent shape. And then it was even red, a real bonus. This one is a 2011 with 10K miles. Still under factory warranty. The 4 low works well. When I got home I had to use it to pull out a stump. The tires dug 4 nice holes in my lawn but the stump came out.

It followed me home mom, Kin I keep it, kin I..........

The 12V resettable are no where near as fast tripping as the correct fast blow fuse. I have not seen specs but my experience is that the element can go nearly instantly, the resettables take almost a half second. I the world of electricity, a half second is almost forever.

the PCW and Skydoc kits are the same thing. They both have a spring that is a lot stronger than stock. I have the PCW only because I got it before SkyDoc started selling his kit. When it is the same part at a similar price, I always prefer to support our members. I have had it in for 4 years, pull a heavy trailer and no issues. As to whether you need to replace the clutch, you can not tell till you get in there. A new friction disc is 3mm (.118 inch) thick the replace thickness is 2.8mm (.110 inch) thick. I did mine at 40K miles and my discs measured .117 inch thick, so I reused them. But then I did do the spring at the very first time it slipped. How long you have been slipping will determine how much wear you have.

Definitely figure out why the valve is hanging before you try to turn it over with the starter. It could be crud or gum causing it to stick, could be a chunk of carbon holding it open, or a bad spring, or a few other things I am not thinking of right now. You might be able to remove the exhaust pipe an see some thing or get some cleaner right on it.

Before you consider trying to start that engine I would try to determine what the cause of the sticking was. If it was a valve strike condition, you could in a split second go from needing a new spring to needing a new engine.

Kydex is a fun material. I used to make crash bumpers out of it for Radio control cars, it can take a beating. When we were playing radio control soccer, the front bumper was made of Kydex heat formed into a "U" shape and mounted on the front of the car. the object was to scoop up about a 3 inch soccer ball and drive it into the opposing goal. Of course EVERYONE on the opposing team was trying to ram you to get the ball away and keep you out of the goal. The Kydex held up well to all of this abuse.

So with the massive amount of knowledge that you have gained here does that mean that you are are now full of it?

I also know from experience that if you really want just one new tire, there are plenty of tire dealers that will love to make the sale and don't give a rip about the health of your car. I am constantly amazed at how many front wheel drive cars I see riding around with the tiny space saver spare on the front, for weeks at a time, then complain when the trans-axle goes out.

But video could be priceless........

:sign yeah that: This also applies to the Murcury Mountaineer AWD. But at least the merc can handle up to 4 32nds difference.

I have no idea if the HID bulbs will fit your housings or not. I have a set of KC Hilights.

1157 front 1156 rear Super bright recommends installing one 6 ohm 50 W resistor by each bulb. That's 4 resistors! I used two 3.3 ohm 50W resistors, one for left and one for right. The resistor I used is from Mouser P/n HS50 3R3 1%. Back when I did my HID conversion I jumpered all 4 sensors in the CMU knowing that some day I would do the LEDs in the tail light.

The headlight is an H4. Mine has already been upgraded to HID 3 years ago. This is true. You have to do the jumpers in the CMU if you are going to change out the brake lights to LED. The CMU does not monitor the turn signals. Depending on my mood I use either PCB123, ExpressPCB, or Eagle. On this one I used ExpressPCB.

From your pic it looks like this HID gets it power from the original headlight circuit. First thing to do is check your headlight fuse. My HID pulls almost 20 amps to start, that would easily pop the 10A fuse on the bike. This is why most of the HIDs have separate power and ground wires. Plug your old bulb back in to be sure that the bikes electrical is still working. Take your old bulb and using an ohm meter figure out which of the 3 pins is the ground pin, it will be the one that shows a connection to both of the other pins. You can then test your HID by connecting that pin to ground and either of the other 2 pins to battery plus.