Flyinfool

I have a hunch that on the auto-gyro the blades are a bit of a PITA to set up so that is why they do not show them being set up. But then the auto gyro being a 3 wheel landing gear may end up licensed as a motorcycle for when it is on the road? The both look like they have 2 engines, one for road and one for air. I did notice that the propeller engine had to be started just before takeoff and that the propellers were not turning while driving. or maybe they have a transmission of some sort to select which drive. The engine may have to be off to change drive. Yes I want one, either one will do.

Just the fact that it was in the garage meant that it had to be a 1st gen, It obviously got there first to get the best parking spot......

Squid, let me know how that lead worked out for you. In WI they only refuse to take your money on Sundays.

OK here is the wiring to use the brake light to activate the HID. The wiring is pretty simple. On a 1st gen the brake circuit runs thru the dash so it is easy to tap into, I am not sure where the best place to tap a 2nd gen would be. Parts Diode - 1N400x (the x can be any number) available at Radio Shack Fuse and fuse holder - 20A fuse in your favorite holder. Relay - SPST NO (this is the standard relay available at any auto parts store. Assorted wire and terminals. Don't forget the short wire that goes from terminal 30 to terminal 86 of the relay.

Another thing to watch out for. I can not tell for sure from the pics, but it appears that the power for the HID is coming from the headlight circuit on the bike. The HID that I have pulls a starting surge of 15 amps for just a split second to initially light the bulb, then drops down to 3A to keep it lit. That 15A surge is hard on the switches in the stock headlight circuit. A stock 60W headlight only pulls 5A. Most (not all) of the after market HID systems have a separate power lead that goes to the battery for power and a separate ground wire. Mine is fused at 20A. I then added a relay to that power lead so the light does not turn on till I am ready.

That is neat to see a system that is still actually working as designed. The building that I work in was powered by a central steam engine back when they made carriages for the civil war. Yes this building is that old. There are still a few very scattered remnants of the pulleys and shafts for the power transmission system hanging from the ceiling. The old coal fired boiler is still here but no longer used for anything. The steam engines are long gone. When electricity was invented, they hooked a generator up to that old steam engine and this was then the power plant for about a 3 block radius around the plant, There was no other source of electricity available. There is a lot of interesting history in this old building.

Your not trying to keep up with the warped rambling of my poor demented little brain, are you? I am using the same relay setup that I had before with the blinking red light and a pushbutton switch. I just eliminated the push button switch and the led, the wire that used to go to the switch, now goes to the brake light wire with a diode thrown in for good measure. If you forget the diode the brake light will not turn off either, don't ask how I found this out. Not including taking the faring apart to get in there, because I was already in there for something else, it took all of 15 minutes to design and hook up. I also thought about wiring it to turn on the HID when the neutral light turns off. I'll have to work on a wiring diagram and parts list. Here is the info for the time delay relay. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=736209&postcount=5

OH NO!!!! There are so many ways to inflict bodily damage with a welder........ Can your new welder weld Titanium?

I have now redone my circuit to turn on the HID. I have it wired so that the first time the brake is applied, it turns on the HID, the HID then stays on till you turn the bike off. I found that even with the blinking red light I was forgetting to turn the headlight on occasionally during bright sunlight. I figure that I will not get far without touching the brakes to turn it on. Even though i did this on my 1st gen it should be easy to duplicate for a 2nd gen.

I have not tried it but it does sound interesting. I wonder if you could get a sample to try before having to drop the big bucks. It sure is pricey to try out. ABS is difficult to mechanically bond to. Almost all of the recommended adhesives chemically bond to the ABS by having a solvent that actually melts the 2 parts together making for a joint that is just as strong as the parent material.

If that "weld" lasted for a few years, a real weld will last forever.

Whatever you do, do not stop to take a pic of the cute little bear on the right, when mama is hiding on your left. I tried that once and mama did serious damage to the drivers side of my Suburban. I also found out that a POed mama can run 45 mph for about a mile. Never did get the pic, got to busy driving down that logging road.....

I would have your machinist friend drill and tap a hole down the center and put in a Stainless steel set screw with red loctite. That will make it at least as strong or stronger than new. If you cant find a SS set screw then use a SS screw and cut it off after tightening it.

Now that is a mental pic I never wanted to even consider, Now I have to go get some rum and kill those brain cells. You tell Taters to behave and heal fast. You just keep bringing her lemonade and ice cream.

And don't let the gremlins get wet....

I may be getting older but I refuse to grow up....... ........especially if that means I have to get a 2nd Gen...... YUP, I is one O de "normal" ones......

There is an after market adapter that you can get to convert to a spin on.

Random weird electrical issues are often a ground issue. Clean all of the grounds at BOTH ends of the wires.

NOOOOOOO!!!!!! You MUST use an oil that specifically states on the label that it is for use on a motorcycle with a wet clutch. The reason for this is that some of the additives that are used in car oil WILL make your clutch slip. I run 10w40 like the owners manual calls for, as for brand, they all are good, some may be a little better. If we are going down the brand road, let me get some :icon_lurker: :icon_lurker: :icon_lurker: You are just a hop skip and a jump away, theres no excuse to not make it to Maintenance Day (MD) to meet some of us "normal" folks.

But 6,643 is still not a Rocky Mountain High........:detective:

I use the PS4933 oil filter from NAPA for $6.49. It includes both O-rings.

I sure hope so......

The Bob Evans looks like a much better option for me. I will be needing a gas stop around there anyhow. To make it there by 10 would mean that everything goes smoothly with no traffic or weather issues or my marshmallow butt needing more stops than planned. We will be able to guess more closely as the time gets closer.

Tell mike to just give you a good goose and you will be up there in no time........ So just which part of the mounting are you having the issue with? Is it the part of getting your left foot up to the floorboard? The stepping up once your foot is there? Swinging your leg over the seat? Do you get on after or before Mike? Have you tried getting on from the right side of the bike? All of these things can make a difference in what you need to help you get mounted safely.

The 3AM start gets me past Chicago and into Indiana by 6am before most of the loonies are out. I'll have to do some figuring to see just when I'll be in the area and just how far out of the way it is.