speakerfritz

received it...just what I needed and price is right.

im sure its a nice product...but I cant see paying 70 bucks for 3 relays.

isolator creates new dedicated circuts for your trailer each can be fused and if the circuts on the trailer short out....your main rear lighting electrical system will be fine. all it takes is for you to loose your rear lighting once (like happened to me) and the extra 10 bucks in relays is a no brainer.

heres another version

its got to be about riding syle. I'm not a lean and swirve type of rider and barley go over the posted speed limit. On my first bike, a yamaha 1100LH , my tires lasted 23K miles. on my second bike, a Harley 2007 ultra , the bike has 14K miles and plenty of tread left on them. So I guess I am saying its hard to compare brand X or Y if you cant repeat the exact riding style on each tire try out.

I do not see an isolated trailer wiring harness....I see his pass thru cable which I just bought.....have a link?

Came across this schematic which is pretty close to what I had in mind. I am at the beginining of this project and can use any connector (4 wire, 5 wire, 7 wire, any connector plus 1, etc) but from a functionality perspective will probally be headed to 7 wire in the long run and 5 wire in the short run. I have a lot of relays laying around so using relays to isolate the trailer wiring from the bike's lighting is appealing. looking for shematics to evaluate......anyone have any I know there are some diode versions out there, but does do not really isolate the trailer wiring rom the bikes wiring.......planning on using the bikes wiring to trigger the relays with power coming from the battery.

14,9 for left over new is a good deal. I bought a new 2013 last month for 16,9. i did face a delimea, during my search for the 2013 found a few 2005, 2006's with less than 5000 miles. but by the time I contacted the seller, he had appts to see and bike was sold. after I bought my 2103, I found a 2009 with 300 miles for 9000 bucks. So there are a lot of used bikes out there that for the most part are garage queens. i dont think I would make a big deal about the warranty.....I cant go 5 years with out making changes to my bike and I am certainly not taking my bike to the dealer for oil changes.

confusing to say the least....especially since most older threads tend to elaborate as time progresses...lots of link jumping to get to todays state of the art. Anyone have a cut and past that will fit into 1 reply box as to whats needed to convert to LED. Mainly to lower power draw. Not lookign to compete with the noon sun.

bought one of these. does not work if your bike is lowered. the install took double the time claimed....the bolt hole spacing is so perfect that it will take creative thinking to line them up. I had to use some very long bolts to guide them in and after tightening them removed one long bolt at a time and used the provided hardware. the relocation of the emmssions valve is confusing and you wont know what the issue is until you retract the stand see the part that is hitting. doing the flip recommneded was not enough ...I needed a few washers as spacers to totally clear the issue. so if you have a lowering kit you need to carry a peice of wood the thickness of your lowering kit, get off the bike and put that peice of wood on the ground, get back on the bike and put your rear tire on the wood, dismount and use the stand. whe you leave the area, ride you bike off the wood a foot or so, stop and get off the bike, get the peice of wood, and get back on your bike with the wood in your back pocket.

when it gets that hot i become the night rider

makes it more interesting...at least its not vented to the exhuast manifold

So I replaced my inlet covers and filter and while doing that saw a hose to each intake that ran thru a bracket and ended near the intake opening buy not actually connected to the air box. so this is obviously a case breather hose to return unburnt fuel back into the intake. You would think yamaha would have put a hose fitting on the ari box so that this hose can direclty attach?

I installed the Barons lowering kit and have been very happy with both the quality and functionality. This is the kit that will drop the rear 1.5 inches and provides a brake capilar relocation kit. Only negative so far is a pulsating brake sound with foot off the brake. something is out of alignment. Once of the challenges is what Baron's calls a Brake capliar stop. It seems to allow a few degrees of misalign ment and can not be installed flush to the nearest mating surface. There's about 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch of gap at the pivot arm that goes thru the capilar relocation bracket hole I used my calibrated eye ball to try to position it center, but after a few miles, it wiggled back into mis alignment. I removed the stop and placed a thin o-ring on the pivot arm that goes thru the capilar relocation bracket hole and that did an excelent job of providing for an accurate center alingment. Been driving it for a few hundred miles and the rear pulsating brake sound is gone. could be my install methods and I just needed a cheater devices to help make absolute certain that the piviot are was centered and evenly spaced against the capilar arm.

Inspite on the current level of pain and suffuring you aare going thru , I have to take a step back and think that someone upstairs is looking out for you and you have much yet to accomplish amoung us.....reson I say that is becuase I know of 5 close freinds or relatives who by the time they realized they had lung cancer it was too late. Early detection and treatment is a life saver. see you on the open road.

yes...I'm recalling that size is on the air filter cover and maybe on the brake banjo bolt or the rear capilar mount bolt. The airbox hose clamp is a number 2 philips as are 2 air filter retaining screws and the 5 airbox clamshell screws.

Trying to put together a list of tools for second generation RSV. so far, I've done an oil change, installed a center stand, installed the billet chrome intake covers, lowering kit with capilar relocation, removed my seat and the tool kit in the right saddle bag was useless. looking at the below is helpful since the nut/bolt/hex sizes are listed. Anyone seen an actual list of tools needed for operator and modificator maintenance? different from the "what I carry" questions. Thanks. RSV Torque Specs & Tool Sizes Rear Wheel, Brake, Shock and Swingarm Area: Fastener-----------------------------------Torque-------------------Tool Size Rear Axle Nut-----------------------------110 ft lb----------------27mm or 1-1/16” Rear Axle Pinch Bolt----------------------13 ft lb----------------12mm Caliper Mounting Bolts ------------------29 ft lb-----------------12mm Caliper Bracket to Swingarm------------29 ft lb-----------------12mm Brake Hose to Caliper--------------------22 ft lb-----------------12mm Brake Disc Mounting Bolts--------------17 ft lb*----------------6mm hex Final Drive Fill Plug-----------------------17 ft lb----------------17mm Final Drive Drain Plug--------------------17 ft lb----------------17mm Final Drive to Swingarm Nuts ----------30 ft lb----------------14mm Speedometer Sensor Bolt ---------------11 ft lb Upper Shock Nut ------------------------43 ft lb Lower Shock Nut ------------------------36 ft lb-----------------17mm Relay Arm to Frame Nut ---------------36 ft lb----------------14mm Connecting Arm Nuts (Dog Bones)---36 ft lb----------------17mm Swingarm: Left Pivot Bolt----------------------------72 ft lb Right Pivot Bolt -------------------------51 ft lb Right Pivot Locknut---------------------72 ft lb *Loctite (Blue) recommended by Yamaha Front Wheel and Brakes: Fastener--------------------------------Torque------------------------Tool Size Front Axle--------------------------------56 ft lb---------------------22mm or 7/8” Front Axle Pinch Bolt------------------13 ft lb-----------------------6mm hex Brake Disc Mounting Bolts-----------17 ft lb* --------------------6mm hex Caliper Bracket to Fork Bolts--------29 ft lb---------------------12mm Caliper to Bracket Bolts---------------18 ft lb----------------------6mm hex Brake Hose to Caliper-----------------22 ft lb---------------------12mm

yes..thanks

this is what I need. I have a 2013 Venture, one size fits all or do I specify.

came across these guys who have what I want. basically a quick disconnect for the brake lights so you can wire in a tow connection. these guys are in canada so the 20 dollar harness will cost 16 to ship. ground packages not going thru post office need a border broker to fill out a slip at the tune of 35 bucks the last ime I did this. so my 20 dollar cable now is at 66 bucks. ouch, ouch and ouch. anyone in the USA have one? http://www​.customcru​iserchrome​.com/wirin​gharness

if it doesn't leak oil, the Harley diehards will not buy it.

decided to put together a small aux electrical box so that i can run 1 hot wire into a new bus, and then within the aux box setup all the circuts. Thinking of mounting the sealed box under the trunk next to the CB box. 1 box to remove if ever I need to go in for warranty that way no splices and tape wraps on my electrical system. The box itself will probally be one of those black plastic radio shack project boxes cut down to the thickness to match the CB box under the trunk. so as I read others electrical challenges my aux box wish list starts to grow. puttting the list out there to see if anyone chimes in with other wants. box will have relays and fuses where it makes sense. a. trailer isolator circut b. circut to send charge power to aux battery on trailer c. circut for battery teather d. circut to send power to usb charge station to be placed in turnk or saddle bag f. circut for rear always hot cig lighter port (which will double as a hot cig lighter port that can accept cig port to cig port battery charge cable), can power air compressor with key out to be placed in trunk or saddle bag. g. back off circut to support under trunk led light row h. circut to power 2nd horn i. circut for passenger heated garment power j. a voltage surge supressor The low power inverter will be on the trailer along with the aux batter with recharge power by circut b.)

Well, as someone suggested, a 6" 1"X6" (deck plank) with 45 degree angles on each end works. position the rear tire on top of the decking, and the centerstand works as intended. So another tool to carry in my tool kit. thanks everyone for the tip's.

the shape of the seat on my 2013 venture made this a PIA to remove using either a scoket or a ratchet wrench.....and as murrphys law would have it...what ever is a PIA to remove intentionally will come loose accidentally when you do not want it to.

spacers inbetween seat and front seat mounting flange. the easiest way would be to use barrel nuts as a spacer onto the stud protruding from seat....that would let you insert an new bolt to secure the seat instead of using a nut on the stud protruding from the seat.