flyday58

Vito, my cover is torn, too. Been watching eBay, including ebay.co.uk and even the German and Netherlands sites, but never seen the cover or an OEM switch. Good luck on this one.

I upgraded to a 4-brush starter off fleabay and fatter cables from member Dingy on this forum. Still have a lead acid batt but no starting issues, spins like a Kansas twister even when fully warmed up.

Got the new TCIP4 from Ignitech installed and went for a ride today after the rain moved out. Bike runs great and initial readings show my mileage is improved with the Ignitech and the new plug in the #3 position. There's a very noticeable high frequency vibration. You feel it in the handlebars and the brake/clutch reservoirs, but not in the tops of the forks, which I can touch while riding. Also don't feel it in the aluminum handlebar extensions that mount on the triple tree, just the steel bar ends and grips. Seems to be mainly between 2500 and 3000 rpm. If I pull in the clutch at any speed, in any gear, the vibes go away below 2500 rpm. Initially thought it was front-end related till I let it coast at idle, so I think that pretty much eliminates wheels and final drive as possible culprits. The buzzy vibe doesn't come back at higher revs, at least not that I can notice. But since I tend to cruise in this rpm range it's readily noticeable. So what y'all think? Something in the engine or tranny, or could it be mounts? I haven't pulled this drive train out of the frame yet,waiting till we settle in to our new house and cold weather to return in the fall. So condition of any mounting or vibration-isolating hardware is unknown.

C'mon, folks, am I the ONLY one who wants to see a vid of Puc "trail riding" on a Venture???

I was gonna click "Like this post" for this, but I just can't....

I ended up getting a carb body and pilot screw from smithplace2004 on ebay. Turns out he was local so went for a visit. He was able to turn taking apart trashed carbs into a full-time job, he's got so much stuff. Mine was the #2 carb body but I think he still has the other three if you want to get up and running again. I've still got the old one with the stuck screw for a day when I've got time to fool with it.

Just noticed I spelled "Duex" wrong in the post title. Should be "Deux". Two years of French in high school, there ya go.

Just got my Carbtune 2 weeks ago and set the carbs up properly, so don't think that's the issue. The plug is replaced, but again, it's still got an intermittent miss that I think is wire or cap related. Disassembled the cap and no corrosion, reassembled in the correct order. We'll see when I get the COPs installed. And the new Ignitech is on its way from the Czech Republic, so there's that, too. On the road till tomorrow night, I'll do some swapping on caps and wires to see if the miss moves.

Discovered yesterday I'm only running on three cylinders. I'm using a TCI off ebay while waiting on Ignitech to replace my faulty TCIP4 but I don't think it's the problem. It runs great but the mileage hovers around 27, and the #3 cylinder doesn't heat up right away, exhaust pipe only slowly gets warm. Yesterday I pulled it out and started it normally, then shut it down, removed the #3 plug wire and started it again. It ran identical. I used an insulated screwdriver the lift the cap up and down off the plug. When I got near the top of the plug you could hear popping as a spark jumped from the cap to the plug. What's more, at some close gap between the cap and the plug top, the rpm suddenly increased and the cylinder started getting hot. Move the cap up or down, the rpm dropped, get it in the sweet spot the the rpm jumped up. Put the cap on the plug and the rpm never increased. Took the cap apart again but all was okay. Reassembled it and installed a new spare plug, and it ran at the higher rpm, but stumbled intermittently. So I think I've got issues with the cap. It was dark when I was doing this and didn't see any stray sparks anywhere around the plugs, wires, or coils. And with the cap on the spare plug before I installed it there WAS spark, not yelllowish, not a fat blue snapper like it should be. I'm waiting on COPs from a guy on the VMax forums, and between them and the replacement TCIP4 from Ignitech I should be in good shape. Anything I might have missed? Is the wimpy spark typical of the Yamaha TCI?

Timely post. Discovered mine is running on three cylinders. I think it's the plug wire, specifically the cap. Richard

Sorry it took so long. Mine is :JYA26H005DA005910. I believe a Standard. No sticker with a build date, but showing 43,273 on the odo. Rescued from under a leaky open barn in Perkinston, MS where it had sat for at least six years after the brakes seized. I picked it up in November 2013. Not your ideal "barn find" to say the least. Richard

I've bought a lot of stuff from this guy, never a problem.

Looks WAY too familiar, had mine to this stage many times running down gremlins during the rebuild. Keep up the good work. Richard

Following up on Jeff's thoughts, if dirt and an open float needle were the culprit, I guess it would also be possible for a syphon effect to occur, like syphoning gas from a tank or water from a pool. Once it's going it might continue. But I'd still be looking for a strong gas odor in that case. Just reaching here...

Thanks, will look at those and the Under Armor's also. Don't really want the electric stuff, even though my big bro swears by 'em.

Yup, had the same socks. Kept my feet warm riding in the back of Vietnam-era E-model C-130s and one memorable night swinging a prop in Cold Lake, Alberta.

Oooooh. That thing is called a bunch of stuff. Yamaha calls it "Body comma front lower" in their parts lists. Lower vent fairing seems to cover it, though.

Get it on the lift and spin that rear wheel. Get eyes on the rear shock attach points and the frame in that area. Don't know if 84s are the ones that are prone to breaking of the frame or not but I would look hard. "The front right lower is a little loose as the lower pokie that fits into the hole on the main fairing has broken again. I have a bungee cord on it but it still doesn't keep it from being a little loose." Not sure what this means, sounds cryptic. Or coptic. Wouldn't think forks since it's not in time with road bumps. Buzzing speedo, I just went through this. It was the bearing in the speedo head, needed to get grease up in there. Linkie: Lubing the speedo on a 1st gen I think the rear drive line is a good place to start, though. Scary noises are, well, scary. Keep us advised.

Hello all, I'm looking for suggestions for really good cold-weather socks. My whole life, cold feet have been my downfall. Once they're cold all the fun is gone from whatever I'm doing. My feet don't really sweat but I know you can't lock 'em in something that doesn't breath, either. So what are all y'all wearin'? Richard

So how much did it take when you refilled? No odor of gas? My supply hose to the fuel filter was seeping. Took forever to find due ti the location under the tank.

1st Gen Wiring Schematics 1983 - 1993 Try these.

Thanks Randy. Great stuff, OTB thinking, all that. Wish I was smart. But Mama always said life is like a box of chocoholics. She was strange.

Sorry sorry sorry. I meant the #2 carb body, yes. The hose for the aftermarket vacuum advance is still installed but plugged. Changed the oil and used Rotella T 15W-40 and lubed the speedo head, then hit the road after a quick lunch. Another 75 miles today. Mississippi burning today so lots of hacking in the full face, but the bike ran great. First sampling yielded 27.5 mpg, so will be looking into that. Don't want to buy a carb sync tool so may pimp y'all for a loaner. I'll pay postage both ways, oc.

Aha. Didn't know you were in Canada. G'day, mate! (Couldn't find a smilie for "he thinks he's so dang funny but it ain't happenin'")