IronMike

I have a little Garmin 760 LMT Trucking version, I have it plugged into a USB direct. For a long time. a 2 amp one. So that does work. I don't need all that cord and traffic alerts on the bike.

Yes i have had the flash from an aggressive take off and second shift but this one is just cruising, after it warms up. Just going down the road. Flash, then maybe on 3 or 4 seconds then off. A Rev seems to make it go off. The oil is good only like 2K miles on it. I checked it Level warm when I got off the bike. I reduced the oil level and took the skid off and got about 30 miles before it came on again, and thats about where it started coming on last time. The bike runs fine, I am at a loss. I just took Vacation thinking I was going for a ride and just like last year its canceled and I cant change it, so I am off to work on it. I have this engine light on and the New Commander II tire does not fit our bike. The oil still looks a little high, so ill let it cool and check and reduce. Then who knows what maybe change the battery,

Your screwed dude. You always have unsolveabke problems that draw a blank.search. very talanted.

And I am going to use his tap to trigger a relay and bump up the power to whate er I want. Like another cig lighter 20 amp.

This is not a code tyoe flash. I have seen it before like winding out first or second it fkashes for a second. Then nothing. On the way to work. Going down the road just cruising it woukd flash come on then maybe stay on a few seconds maybe five then go out. Seems to go out on a rev. Got to work. Did some figures 8s fast as I could no light. I notice oil is a little high when its hot. Like just as I stopped it covers the glass its at the bottom of the glass on the stand. Oil too high? Only other thing is I have the skid on. Maybe.its blocking whatever that is.hanging down with cooling fins and not allowing it to cool? Riding home about five am fifty miles. Need some ideas.

I forget what I got for a car tire, its out in the shop, something that was suppose to be from Wal Mart but I had to order it from the net. Been had it since last year and forgot it. I bought the leftovers from a trike and it came with a brand new rear Metz and rim so I am running that out. BLUGH! Hate that but hate to waste rubber too. New problem. I am about to put a new Front tire on so I may as well put a rear on the front to match my TO BE DS on the rear right? So I bought the Michelin Commander 2 Rear 130 90 for the front and in another thread somone posted that that tire is not made for our bikes and CS told someone else to take it off ASAP. If you go to the Michelin web site and use their tire calculator and enter out bike info it says. We make over 3000 MC tires but, none for your bike. So, this tire is a radial and our bikes are designed to run Bias, so I wonder if it is a rim issue. And the tire will peel off the rim on the Tail Of The Dragon going like 60. This is starting to get expensive. No one is really jumping in with what works perfect. But anyone running the Commanders on a Venture ought to beware I guess. I am still wondering the WHY.

That makes no sense at all, But when you go to their web site and use their find my tire feature, it comes up blank for our bike and says they do not make a tire for our bike. Near as i can figure because it is a radial and our rims are designed to run a Bias. http://motorcycle.michelinman.com/tire-selector#s=0

I got a rear for the front 130 90 It looks good, get it on next week. Going dark side on the rear. This will get me 30K on one tire change.

I hear you want to stick to stock plates over the burnett. That's what I did on my Roadstar. But looks like this will be a future upgrade.

Ive done it to truck and mower tires but I would not do it to a bike tire.

How can first gens be faster when you have to stop for all this wiring?

Steve I sent ya a PM like last week about an order, Just re sent you an E mail. If you don't get it. Hummmm I don't know. I wanted a bunch of stuff. I have ordered from you before and its great stuff came super fast and easy to install. No idea whats going on this time. Check you in box. :et me know what all it cost for a mass order ship in one package.

Off the top of my head ove 80 PSI to seat is a no no. The best way is use a Darkside approved tire, one thats been run on your type bike/rim/ Dismount your tire, Polish the rim all around where the bead contacts it with a metal polish to make it smooth as silk. It should be really really smooth. Then you get ready. Have the Darkside tire sit in the sun for a few hours, like 11 to 2 PM to get it good and soft. Put it on the rim. Use a lube on the bead and rim, Go jo hand cleaner works good, of course the smooth kind no Pumice, Think that I had to mention that? Then put the air to it. I like to put it to it, until it seals, let it out and do that a few times to get the bead in the right spot and when it is all lined up. Let it roll! I put like 50 in and let it sit and it normally seats up right there. Polishing the rim is a real big key. I have run Darkside for about 5 years and about 70K miles. It is all what it is cracked up to be in tire length of service. You can change out the rear and put a rear on the front at the same time and see you in about 30K plus miles. BUT don't forget your Hub and other maintenence. You syill must do that on schedule. It is a lot more traction, especially in winter , on gravel, grass, mud, and yes pavement. It does not get up on the edge like people think it does. I you tubes video and saw that and I took my own video too. After all I have run Darkside I can only think of one drawback. The difference in weight of the tire VS MC tire. GOOBS of traction! After you get used to it you can ride it much differently, no skidding out on the rear, and it is fun to lock up on occasion and watch people looking for the Car skidding, if you add in a Stebel horn blast while skidding it really makes them wonder! Break it in slow, play with air pressure and I mean letting it cool three hours and starting over. You'll find the sweet spot.

OK thanks a bunch, I really miss Steve W I could use one of his Radiator grille things. That sucks. Glad you guys pointed me to the right guy. I sent him a PM, He has a few things I am intrested in. Ive spent over $100 in stuff for this trailer todays, Washers, Hardware, Lights, Wires, and about 100 miles running to get the stuff. It's all together but the lighting. I figured out where the Hose went, I used clear hose and did some other things. Have to post about all that later. Well, back at it! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10204196284366224 Looks like I have to figure my lights out on my own, think I am just going to split the brakes and turns. I PM that guy to order everything he had for my bike, splitter, light bar, Butt connectors, and the thing in the fairing for when I have that off, No answer. 3 days. Plan B! Anyways, if that link works, thats where I am at.

Hey Mike explain that a Little more about how it works with the trailer lights. I am just putting together a trailer and doing the wiring now. LED How would this work, What extra comes with it for the trailer and I am thinking maybe wire it up as a trailer light. I was wanting the conector the daisy chains in with the existing tailight wires no cutting but I dont see one for sale anymore in classified. Indeed the higher lighting helps you be seen a LOT! more! Good idea! ANd I think actually it being under the trunk makes it more noticeable than the one on top because it's down in indirect sunlight, so when it lights up it shows up better in daylight.

Tubing on what spring? I was going to order a seperate plug in Light wire adapter from I think Steve W but I don't see it anymore in the classifieds. I still wonder if the bike will handle the LED with no Hoppy converter. Anyone know>

The last question, was what is the tongue weight with it loaded with about 100 Lbs. I weighed all my gear when I got back from camping I think it was 142 Lbs. Say 40 of that is going on the bike in the storage there. So I am figuring like 120 in the trailer.

Anyone thinking of buying a Vest for at LEAST use at night in case you become detached front the bike and want to be seen where you land. I highly suggest any Military Spec Vest, http://www.jafrum.com/Motorcycle-Vests/Safety-Vests?utm_source=msn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Vest_-_Search these seem to last forever, have a ID badge holder on them. You should put your ICE card in there. As anyone in the Military knows, They take Riding serious and Vests are mandatory. A tip when riding crazy stuff where crash risk is increased or riding alone, I put a Small CD on the vest and a plastic blow whistle. Of course the whistle is to blow if you're over the embankment on the TOD or whatever. So they can find you. And the CD makes a great reflective mirror for signaling. Sounds stupid but people have needed a signal device. If you slightly poke, you will find someone crashed on the tail and during the recovery they found a body of someone else who crashed long ago. Whistle! Signal! And I shall mention the first thing a driver says after creaming a Bike rider, "I didn't see him." So we all would be better off with a Mil Spec Vest all the time. in a perfect world.

HELP! OK I pulled the trigger on this one for starters, Have a lot of uses for it beside the bike if it don't pan out. Been peeking around and See a lot of info but I may be wrong. few questions. Mine has a Zerk on the inside of the hubs, never seen one there. Is that for the back bearing only or both? Kinda looks like a bearing buddy for the rear side. Does everyone have zerks there? OK I hear drop the axle. But the pins would then be on the wrong side and a nut would be in the pilot hole instead. Or are we able to flip that on the spring? How about that spring, seen a GWer said he took one spring out. Makes a little sense, softer ride and according to the weight ratings we would not need both springs, what say you, Ideas Opinions taking all! Someone else said the hardware is JUNK! The bolts snap when torqued down right. So for like $20 just go get all new Grade 8 from the start. Do we concur? I did get the LED lights. Disappointed in these, All that lights is to the read RED no Side Marker RED LEDS. Just reflectors, I can fix that but that's BS. OK so What will I need to hook them up? Any lick with LED and no Hoppy converter??? I tried to buy a Hoppy Converter with a Part number I got on here this winter and they sent me a Toyota Converter. Its pretty darn bulky. Could I just do a 7 wire system and forget the converter? Going all LED, adding addtional lighting, this is not enough for me. What say you about the two ply tires? Switch to 4 6 or 8? Someone made the tow bar longer, said it pulled better. HOW. I tried to stretch mine, its pretty solid. Ha. It only appears to be easy to assemble, but after you poke around, there is a lot to know before you start. Anyone have a tongue weight with like 100 lbs in it and no cooler on it?

I doubt it, Since one is Green and they would feel guilty trading two Ventures for just one HD. Tell em you'll take a Road Glide for one bike, they choose the color and 2K. Sounds Fair to me! But have one of them counterfeit checking pens with you, you NEVER know where their money has come from!

Looks like that's a next winter job for me. Before I get to that point. Drats. I have done it on different bikes and it is not a bad job if you own even a basic set of tools. I'll second the PITA with the gasket removal. Think you do want to use a torque wrench on things. And hopefully when you do it you need an oil change anyways. Not sure about this bike, but others I have done had different length bolts so use a old cardboard box to draw an outline of the case and put the bolts in holes on the outline to keep them in order. And don't cross thread anything of course. You can do this!

Cowpuc, I think you can use my Tagline. Some things are given and some EARNED. We better not ride together, It would be a crazy trip! LOL

Ok I don't want a centerstand now.

I feel like the only time I don't have enough gear on.....I'm going to wreck THAT time! I have LOTS of gear, And I normally wear it. But I have been known to skip on some sometimes. Like a quick run to the parts store. Ride to work, (No place to really change) And Parades, and so on. And that's odd because MOST MC accidents happen close to home. I think I gear up according to risk, Tail of the Dragon or a trip, all out. Close to home short run, not enough. But one thing is for sure, when your sliding down the road, amazed at how long it's taking to stop, seeing your bike catching up with you, or you catching up with it.... A flash of cars that were following you, STILL following you! And all the Amplified sounds yet so much is quiet. It's then you'll be thinking of all that gear you SHOULD have had on! The WORST violation I do is NOT wearing my Reflective vest at night. All the lights in the world on your bike won't help you be seen once you get separated from it. Like tonight I rode home through Deer Alley. Had I hit one, no one would have seen me laying there. I have heard of riders surviving the wreck and killed by a car that did not see them in the road.

Caliber is not such a big deal. Load it with the right Ammo. DRT or RIP are two good ones. DRT means Dead Right There and RIP well, you know what that means. Pick a caliper you like and load it right with the right ammo. This will broaden your choices. You can You Tube those two ammos and see what they can do.