IronMike

Brilliant! The design of yours puts gravity to work for you compared to the one he posted from Amazon. It's going to naturally want to stay where you want it to be, yet allow for a tipover. I want one!

Got my Trailer! I am in! Whoot! I hope to bring my Turkey Oven if anyone would be interested in seeing that in action. It takes 4 hours to cook one but it has been known to turn people who normally don't like turkey into Turkey eaters. Very moist and flavorful. Ill do EVERYTHING I can to make this it was such a GREAT well put on time last time! THANKS you DAVE for doing it again! Need ANYTHING let me know! Right now I am down to one eye, No joke. RVO, Getting the Shots then the Laser. I think I will get it all back. But I can ride! Easier than drive a car in fact.

I think something is just too wet. If it ran good before the wash it will when it dries. I have had both air boxes off my 2008 and it ran like a top with them off even as i squirted Seafoam DEEP CREEP into the intake. As he mentioned maybe a spark plug or ignition problem. Spray that area with WD and try it again. As far as a fuel pump, you can test that by sqirting something it will run on, like gas, either, WD40 into the intake as you crank it. if it runs as you squirt but dies when you stop. It's not getting any gas. So trace that down to fuel pump or Filter. But I am told the filters last a very long time. VERY. My vote is Fuel pump is ok.

The hitch or drawbar I have now is pretty long. It really aids in maneuvering and the way it tows. So length is actually good. How fast can you make one?

The one from open road outfitters is the only one I can find too. The other link shows sold out. I'm wondering if that is the recalled version. I kind of wish this was on the drawbar so that anything you towed had the feature. This way you have to buy one for every trailer.

Once the steering stop is sheered its automatically a total. I'd would buy it. Where is it ?

A product in a blue can with a trigger nozzle. Its a dry cleaning type agent sold anywhere car cleaning products are sold. I think its a spot remover. I think it will work. Spray it on and damp dry with a towel. It will certainly nutrelize it. And kill the smell. I think Blue Coral makes it. It will be by the carpet cleaner.

Fellow members. I think a tour of duty as a moderator or admin would make it more clear. Seriously. Just go with the program. Enjoy the site follow the rules. And you will have no idea what goes on behind the scenes. Its better that way. Don is clearly not pointing out one person. But the act itself. It's obviously creating a lot of extra work. Unnecessarily. Now I wonder can I GIVE stuff away in the watering hole? Just kidding big guy!

Told ya them Hardley guys are mean!

I want one for.the tip over reason. It's there more than one brand? What one should I get? Links? Thanks in advance.

My 07 has two. They are ideally placed to avoid sucking in a lot of forigen material. Mine have 20k mikes on them and of that 10.500 mi are mine. They are like new. The way it is arranged they both deliver air to a central point so you could actually clean one with no harm. Its not like one is dedicated to two cylinders. The two of them deliver air to a central point. If you are shooting say deep creep in there. You have to aim at the center or soak the filter on the far side. Keep in mind.

And the same thing I did, After looking at the space the converter was going to need. I like Amber turn signals more anyways, they are more visible and especially with the emergency flashers on.

I am trying to convince people to go without a converter. It's expensive. It's bulky and hard to hide and place. It gets in the way during maintenance. It can be a weak spot, it can cause as many problems as it could solve. it eats electricity, its more load on your system. So what it will isolate the trailer from the bike, are you riding with no trailer lights? Whats the point? A fuse will take care of anything major, you will have to fix it anyways. For $20 you can buy Steves T harness, an extra wire and two LED turn signals and do away with it.

I did think of another thing Alignment. The distance from the Hub to the center of where the ball fits into the trailer should be the same. If you google it lots of diagrams pop up showing. But a Name brand trailer like that should be right on as they know about alignment, unless for some other reason, it might be off. the way you describe it, there is a problem somewhere.

I just did the Tag along trailer thing. I just added two Amber turn signals to it and split the grounds using one as a ground and the other as a Brake light feed. Used all LED lights. That way no converter needed. 5 off the bike 5 into the trailer, no messy weak spot converter bull and expense. The Left and right turn wires go to the New Amber LEDS. and a Common. The One white wire is your common. The other white wire is your Stop feed, it feeds both lights. The run Brown feeds all running lights. I made mine where the T harness just plugs in and I can leave it or take it off when not pulling the trailer.

I did a few hundred with the Tag Along I set up and I hardly noticed it back there. MT or loaded. Only difference I can think of is that I have a long draw bar. About double of the standard.

Mail them in a flat rate USPS box to the cleaners in the town you are going to. Have them do them up. You can get them to the room from there. Either on the bike or one of the people who has a car that is doing the same meeting. Or chance it and buy local at a second hand store. Haha I've done that. Ride in. Stop at a thrift store. It can be a treasure hunt. Its so cheap, when your done you donate them back. Can even be cheaper than the cleaners. LOL

Well second on the small time tire shop. I had my darkside tire mounted I think it was a Goodyear radial TA off the top of my head anyways, the guy that does my work did have to put quite a bit more air in it than normal, we shines on it, we used goop, he was like put the air to it! And POP! one side and POP the other. Seems fine to me, add 2.3 qzs of dyna beads and call it a day.

I just wired a HF tow behind used all LED lights. I used Steve's T connector and ran 5 wires. Ground Left Right Run Those are normal. The fifth must be separate STOP. And to make it work with no hocus pocus I used seperate Amber turn signals just as the bike does. So all wiring on the trailer is the same. You just need Steve's t harness and two 5 connector plugs. He will custom make the t harness with the pigtail long enough to reach the receiver. At a cheap charge IMHO I put high power magnets in the harness to hold it to the Chrome stays or whatever you want to stick it to. Five will do. I have mine where when I am done towing I lift the seat and unplug the T harness and toss it in the trailer and no unsightly wires and plugs hanging down. I used a 6 wire plug. That's a spare wire. Connect it to pos and use the ground and you have enough power in the trailer to charge a power pack, cell phone or run your go pros. All my connections on my trailer are inside the until. On a terminal board. So all I have to do to make it work with a 4 wire is switch some terminals and whala. (Marry the turn and stops and bypass the amber turn signals) The lights I bought from truck supply can be seen in daylight and warranty forever. Anyways. I love my removable plug in T harness trailer light set up that Steve helped make happen. I MUST note. I had the hoppy isolator here ready to install. I did it this way for weight and space savings and keep it simple. I don't see the big deal isolating the bike from the trailer ..??.if your pulling a trailer and the lights go out on it are you going to keep riding? No. So wire it direct and save money, time, space and unsightly wiring. Its only a matter of separate amber turn signals you add on. And one more wire for the stops. Place your order. Steve ships faster than any vendor of anything anywhere! He could ship ice cream!

For a few years people raved about the Metz, now its a dawg tire. I guess once you get so popular you can't make em fast enough, shortcuts are in order. I used to Deliver and pick up at Tire manufacturing places and I used to wonder around and talk to people in the factory watch and ask questions. It's a process that is totally dependent on the person doing the work to take pride in it. Everything has to be just so. That could have gotten ugly. I have one Metz to wear out and I am done with them, and that is a rear on the Front of the Roadstar. It will probably rot before I wear it out. Like the trip stories though. Raw and uncut!

Spike what you running on the front and the pressure?

Well he showed me in the book that the front 130 90 did not have the weight rating maybe he was talking what the bike calls for. I didn't pay all that much attention nor do I care. If it does meet the weight rating they should have it pop up as the bike handles better with the 130 on the front anyways. In fact they should fix their tire calculator period because it says they don't make any tire for a second gen. If you are running them and they have not peeled off the rim then we are good to go. IMHO I think everyone should run that set up. A farmer lives next door and I weigh my bike on his scale to see how my passenger and luggage ride. As I remember you will never ever ever be even close to being over on the front anyways its always the rear that is over the load rating. The one guy in the thread said michelin told him to take em off ASAP. Not me I would want to know why. Either way I'll be running a rear on the front its of no concern to me. But that's how these problems get hashed out. I bet if ten of us call Michelin all at once we will get ten different answers. I read every word if their motorcycle tire Q&A. That's an hour of my life I'll never get back. All scare tactics to me. Excuse me while I go ride my dark side bike. 30k miles before the next tire change. At least.

Bert 2006 Yep I just replied to that thread, It' was all about the weight rating. Being I am puting a Rear on the front backwards rotation, I am good to proceed! Yay! I am soooo happy! In fact I am like 3 specs over the weight rating on the front. This should match up to my Darkside tire nicely! Whoot! ON to this engine light. Dealer Mechanic actually spent like 15 minutes looking up what this light does and showing me the books, which he said are early Venture Shop books and are not what they should be. But that light has nothing to do with the oil level, there is a separate light for that. I should have wrote down what he said but he was doing this for free so I did not interrupt him. As I recall he said this light trips on Tip over switch triggered, Fuel Sending Unit fault, Throttle position sensor fault (And that only changes timing a little so bike will still run.) and Emergency stop switch. And he did not know what they mean by that, was thinking they mean switch on Handlebar we call the Kill Switch. He told me the number of blinks for each fault, cant remember, but anyways he said if it is active fault it will blink when the key is turned on. Mine does not, it lights steady so no faults. He said he only seen this light problem once and it was the tipover switch and he remembers it only because it was a very time consuming diagnosis. You could see it in his eyes. So I guess there is nothing there that would stop the bike from running. It just freeks me out to see a light on. I can't really even guess where to look, The bike only has like 15K miles on it. So maybe I hit a wire or pinched it instaling something or bad connection at a plug. If I can find all these sensors I will clean the plugs with Electrical contact cleaner and see what happens. At least in the future someone with this problem will have a little information than me. And I hope we find a fix in the end. Now, I got the Fuel sending unit plug location and maybe the Stop switch, but the TPS and the TS ummmm steer me! Before I look it up! LOL

Well I just got back from the dealer who pretty much told be the same exact thing! AND that they don't meet the weight rating a Venture requires. SO! THIS is GIGANTICALLY good news for me! Thanks Venturefair for the post! Dealer checked it all out using the tire manufacture books and I am greatly exceeding the Specs running the MC II REAR on the FRONT! He said it should do great, run cool and shed a crapload of water run in Reverse rotation! I am SO glad we got to the bottom of this one! I was almost thinking of not spending the $12 next year LOL but that one answer makes it worth it! STILL Michelin What the HECK! If I was not going to the Dark side of all the tires I hear about I would want to run a set of these tires! Wake up for us! Build a tire for our bikes! Know a guy who runs a Repair shop and he says he sells a Crapload of these tires everyone just loves them! Now I have heard of guys that do have a set on as in two, From what I get they should be checking the weight rating. They do not make one that is rated for our Venture.

Yea but if you go to the Michiland web site for MC tires any type in our bike it comes up blank. Says we do not make a tire for your bike. I checked it out because another member here had em on and they were cupping, so he called michlin and they said take em off ASAP! They do not belong on your bike. The problem I have is the why. If I knew the reasoning I may say oh, ok, I can deal with that. But I do not know why. I suspect because we have rims designed for a Bias Ply and not Radials. But, it could be as simple as Yamaha did not have time to spend with them to certify the tire for the bike. I hear its a great tire and a local guy who has a bike shop can't keep them in stock.