Jethroish Posted June 10, 2008 Share #1 Posted June 10, 2008 Well, 12,500 miles later, the Dunlop D404 is getting close to giving up the farm. I have been checking online and local shops for tire and labor prices. The stealerships are absolutely outrageous. One wanted nearly $250 just for a Metzler ME880 then another $75 to remove and install. Found a shop that will mount and balance for $35 if I remove the rear wheel myself. That is what I will be doing in the next few weeks.... SO BE WARNED! I'll be calling on all the experts here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilot Posted June 10, 2008 Share #2 Posted June 10, 2008 If your saying that you have not removed the rear tire before it's not that bad to drop a tire yourself. Is that what you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stardbog Posted June 10, 2008 Share #3 Posted June 10, 2008 I'll say stay away from Metzlers 880's. to many bad reports of rubber separation. Avon Venom is great tire with average good milage out of them, and bike will feel 300lb lighter at parking lot speed manuvers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted June 10, 2008 Share #4 Posted June 10, 2008 I agree about the Metzler's. I used to run them on my Honda Shadow and later on my Harley FXRD and was very pleased with them. Something has changed though. The excuse they keep giving is that they are being run under inflated. Guess what? I don't care. If somebody screws up and runs them under inflated, they should wear out faster but should NOT come apart. Other tires don't. I won't be running them either. As for buying tires. I buy mine from SWMOTO. They offer good prices, free shipping if you buy a pair and fast shipping. You can spend hours searching and may be able to save a couple of bucks but it won't be much and they have been good to VentureRider having donated tires a couple of times to various projects that we have done for members. I bought new Avons for front and rear a few weeks ago. Price was right at $250.00 for the pair and that included delivery. I was happy enough with that price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share #5 Posted June 10, 2008 If your saying that you have not removed the rear tire before it's not that bad to drop a tire yourself. Is that what you mean? Yep. That is pretty much it. I have read a couple threads here about it and feel confident that I can do it. My concerns are: 1) does the driveshaft have to be removed from the bike? 2) is there any "specific" alignment concerns when mating the final drive with the wheel and, 3) will my Craftsman MC lift get the bike high enough to get the wheel out? Aside from that, I just need to get a pair of spring washer pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share #6 Posted June 10, 2008 I'll say stay away from Metzlers 880's. to many bad reports of rubber separation. Avon Venom is great tire with average good milage out of them, and bike will feel 300lb lighter at parking lot speed manuvers. I have seen feedback on several tires but guess I missed that about the Metz. My dad has run 880s on his Kaw Voyager for years with no problems, averaging 18,000 miles. Of course there is the Dunlop issue. I'm please with 12,500 miles on my original, but notice that as these 404s have worn (front especially) they tend to shake with the tread pattern just a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted June 10, 2008 Share #7 Posted June 10, 2008 Rather then pay high price to change just one tire. Get the " Bike Lift" Sears has been selling for around $80. Remove the tire yourself, then call around all bike shops in your area, find out what they charge to change it if you bring in the Wheel. Look for an Independent, in the area, they are usually cheaper. Just yesterday, there were 2 more reports of the Metzler, chunking !!! They have some QQ Problems. Dunlop, Avon, or Michilan, anything but Metzler !!! You can order the E- III from Southwest Moto for about $120 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share #8 Posted June 10, 2008 Rather then pay high price to change just one tire. Get the " Bike Lift" Sears has been selling for around $80. Remove the tire yourself, then call around all bike shops in your area, find out what they charge to change it if you bring in the Wheel. Look for an Independent, in the area, they are usually cheaper. Just yesterday, there were 2 more reports of the Metzler, chunking !!! They have some QQ Problems. Dunlop, Avon, or Michilan, anything but Metzler !!! You can order the E- III from Southwest Moto for about $120 I do have a craftsman lift. Will it go high enough? I plan to change both front and back tires. Thinking about wide white walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted June 10, 2008 Share #9 Posted June 10, 2008 Yep. That is pretty much it. I have read a couple threads here about it and feel confident that I can do it. My concerns are: 1) does the driveshaft have to be removed from the bike? 2) is there any "specific" alignment concerns when mating the final drive with the wheel and, 3) will my Craftsman MC lift get the bike high enough to get the wheel out? Aside from that, I just need to get a pair of spring washer pliers. 1. No, the driveshaft does not have to be removed. 2. No. The gears will mesh up in any posistion. 3. Yes. The Craftsman jack will do a great job. If you plan on doing your own service, I recomend purchasing a Lift Adapater that Larry, Carbon One, sells. It makes lifting much easier and safer. It also makes a great stand for working on the bike with the jack out of the way. The lift adapter is listed in the classified. I think it is in the $125 price range, but dont quote me on that. Pulling the tire is pretty easy. You dont have to, but I would reccomend taking both saddlebags and both mufflers off the first time. Just makes it much easier to see what needs to be done. Remember to use plenty of good grease on the gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted June 10, 2008 Share #10 Posted June 10, 2008 One more idea. I wrap a rag around my brake calipers and hang them with a piece of wire so they wont put a strain on the hoses. I always check out my brake pads when I change a tire. The rear brake pads seem to go first. I'm only getting about 18K out of mine and I use the front 90% of the time. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted June 10, 2008 Share #11 Posted June 10, 2008 All you need to do, is remove the right side muffler, after you get it up on the lift, the wheel will come out, after the Brake assembly removed. Only raise bike high enough for the Wheel to clear. Has your Drive shaft, EVER been pulled out and Hand Greesed ????? IF not, !! after removeing the wheel, also remove the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin on, and then pull out the drive shaft. HAND greese with Heavy Greese the Front Spline of the Drive shaft. Also, check for signs of SAE-90 leaking from the Drive Unit , INTO the Drive shaft houseing assembly. IF so, there is an Oil Seal, front of the Pumpkin, my need to be replaced. Also check your wheel bearings, Maby greese them . SEE: page 6-6 of service manual, see items #10, and #11, pull out the 6 large Pins, and clean all these parts, and Greese, before reassembly. l And of course, change the SAE - 90 in the Drive unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunboat Posted June 10, 2008 Share #12 Posted June 10, 2008 i have taken my wheels to an independet shop and to cycle gear. cycle gear is open on sundays. usualy cost about $20.00-$25.00 if you bring in the wheel and new tire. don c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drumfire Posted June 20, 2008 Share #13 Posted June 20, 2008 On my 3rd Venom at 18k. I average 7K per rear tire on my 05 RSTD. One suggestion is to change the rear brake pads every time you change the rear tire or at least check them. Much cheaper than a new rotor. I found out the hard way that Bike Bandit had a decent price on an EBC rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share #14 Posted June 20, 2008 On my 3rd Venom at 18k. I average 7K per rear tire on my 05 RSTD. One suggestion is to change the rear brake pads every time you change the rear tire or at least check them. Much cheaper than a new rotor. I found out the hard way that Bike Bandit had a decent price on an EBC rotor. Only 7000 per rear tire? That does not seem like much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsigwing Posted June 22, 2008 Share #15 Posted June 22, 2008 On my 3rd Venom at 18k. I average 7K per rear tire on my 05 RSTD. One suggestion is to change the rear brake pads every time you change the rear tire or at least check them. Much cheaper than a new rotor. I found out the hard way that Bike Bandit had a decent price on an EBC rotor. Sounds like its time to go to the darkside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted June 22, 2008 Share #16 Posted June 22, 2008 Sounds like its time to go to the darkside. It's dangerous, don't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share #17 Posted June 25, 2008 Ordered a set of Elite 3 today from SWMoto. Great price from them: $235 for the set. Local shop will mount and balance for $15 per tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share #18 Posted July 1, 2008 The day has come. Tuesday afternoon (I am working a midnight shift right now) after my morning nap, I will be removing the tires. Good excuse, too, to do a thorough cleaning. Gonna check all the brake pads too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted July 1, 2008 Share #19 Posted July 1, 2008 My concerns are: 1) does the drive-shaft have to be removed from the bike? No, HOWEVER if you are in that far anyway, why not do some preventive maintenance and grease it up with some Moly 60 from you local Honda dealer. This is OUTSTANDING grease!!!!!! 2) is there any "specific" alignment concerns when mating the final drive with the wheel No, but while you are there, why not do some preventive maintenance and grease it up with some Moly 60 from you local Honda dealer. This is OUTSTANDING grease!!!!!! and, 3) will my Craftsman MC lift get the bike high enough to get the wheel out? Yes. strap the bike to the lift or the walls of your garage to make sure it does nto tip over. Also make sure that all childern and adults stay away from the bike in you absence, while you are getting the tire mounted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share #20 Posted July 1, 2008 Got the rear tire off the bike. Quite easy. Before I take it to get the new tire put on, do I need to remove anything? ie rotor, bearings,... thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgew48 Posted July 1, 2008 Share #21 Posted July 1, 2008 Just got back from a week at the Dragon (U.S. 29) and North Carlonia. My buddy had his second Metzler in a one year time frame seperate on him. Thank God it wasn,t while we were on the curves. Took it to the local Yamaha dealer in Waynesville N.C. and they were useless. Wanted to rape him on the price and then said they didn't have time to change it. Brought it home and took it to Clinton County Motorsports, our local Yamaha dealer, and they fixed him up for about $145.00. Almost a $100.00 cheaper. Don't think I will be putting Metzlers on my RTSD any time soon. Also avoid Waynesville Yamaha delear if you are in that area. They had a real give a S--- attitude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share #22 Posted July 1, 2008 For those following my "saga"... Got everything apart. Pulled the driveshaft, greased it and got it back in after about 45 minutes of trying to get the shaft and U-joint to line up. UGH! Now I am off to the shop to have the tires changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted July 1, 2008 Share #23 Posted July 1, 2008 There is a spacer on the brake side of the wheel. It goes into the hub. I would remove it before taking the wheel in because it will fall out and possibly get lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jethroish Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share #24 Posted July 1, 2008 Thanks to all that gave advice. BIG thanks to Cougar for the step by step procedure with pics in the tech section. One question though that I either missed or was not addressed in here anywhere... To reinsert the driveshaft, should it be done by first taking the shaft off the pumpkin? That is how I did it and it seemed to work. I took special care not to let the spring in there go flying. Everything is back together. Took it for a quick test drive and all seems well. Total time from start to finish (starting with getting the jack out to doing my test ride), with 3 hour break in the middle to get tires mounted, was 7 hours. That also included cleaning the back end while apart and cleaning the wheels. \ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted July 1, 2008 Share #25 Posted July 1, 2008 Doesn't it feel good to do the work yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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