New Front Tire. Dunlap E 4 replace E 3

[KenM]

Time to replace my front tire... currently E 3 150/80 -16. Seems they don't make them anymore and replaced with the E4. Interested in going the 130 route. The only E4's I can find are the 130/90-16. Will they fit on my rim? Dunlap appears to be having a $25 rebate on these tires until Oct 31 so I need to make a decision soon.... So will the E4 130/90-16 be suitable?

 

thanks in advance...

[Rafterd]

I run the Michelin in 130/90x16 and it fits fine. Don’t know why the Dunlop wouldn’t.

[wrscomncents]

I'm also running the Michelin 130. I really like the way it handles.

[Treb]

I was just going to ask this question because the Avon Venom on the front of my RSV is squirmy as hell. It's not worn out and it's properly inflated but follows every seam and crack in the road, road snakes are also a pulse quickener and it does not feel good in the twisties. I had to keep reminding myself to relax my arms when I went for a mountain ride the other day and my shoulders were also getting fatigued. I realize it's a heavy machine but it steers like a Sherman tank. I'm definitely thinking of changing over to a 130 Michelin Commander II. The 130 width should theoretically turn in a little easier and the Commander II's have worn like iron and never had traction issues on any of my other bikes.

[djh3]

I loved the 130 on the front, really helped quicken and for me stabilize the bike. Never had it feel like it was following ridges or ruts. Even expansion bridges didnt have me nervous. The Avons had reports of separation around rim area. Sometimes tread pattern just lends itself to certain tendencies. I try not to by motorcycle tires that dont have treads that overlap center of tire to let water out. I did not care for the the E-3 pattern as the center had a tendency to feel funny in wet conditions.

[YamahaLarry]

Time to replace my front tire... currently E 3 150/80 -16. Seems they don't make them anymore and replaced with the E4. Interested in going the 130 route. The only E4's I can find are the 130/90-16. Will they fit on my rim? Dunlap appears to be having a $25 rebate on these tires until Oct 31 so I need to make a decision soon.... So will the E4 130/90-16 be suitable?

 

thanks in advance...

 

Yes. 130 x 90 will work fine. I've been running that size for last 3 tire changes. The tire is 3mm shorter than the 150, so your front end will sit about 1/8th inch lower. And it is obviously narrower, about 13/16" wall to wall.

[camos]

I was just going to ask this question because the Avon Venom on the front of my RSV is squirmy as hell. It's not worn out and it's properly inflated but follows every seam and crack in the road, road snakes are also a pulse quickener and it does not feel good in the twisties.

I'm not familiar with that tire since I have always run E3's on my VR MkII. I like to keep the E3's at 40 lb on each and do not get any squirmy feeling. Occasionally the pressure gets down to 36 lbs, mostly due to weather changes although sometimes due to a lack of attention on my part and I do notice the occasional squirmyness and or tracking on tar snakes. I suggest you try running your tires at 40 lbs or at the Max rated pressure on the tire and see if it makes a difference.

[Treb]

I'm not familiar with that tire since I have always run E3's on my VR MkII. I like to keep the E3's at 40 lb on each and do not get any squirmy feeling. Occasionally the pressure gets down to 36 lbs, mostly due to weather changes although sometimes due to a lack of attention on my part and I do notice the occasional squirmyness and or tracking on tar snakes. I suggest you try running your tires at 40 lbs or at the Max rated pressure on the tire and see if it makes a difference.

 

Tire is at 40PSI and I've tried 36 and 42 with no change in it's bad habits. I've never owned an Avon tire and I likely will never own another one... And just to make things interesting I get quite a lot of head shake if I let go of the bars. I tried this at multiple speeds and speed seemed to make no difference.

[KenM]

My friendly independent shop located an 150/80-16 E3, so I went with that. One day might try the 130....

 

thanks to all the replies....

 

Ken

[Mike G in SC]

I was just going to ask this question because the Avon Venom on the front of my RSV is squirmy as hell. It's not worn out and it's properly inflated but follows every seam and crack in the road, road snakes are also a pulse quickener and it does not feel good in the twisties. I had to keep reminding myself to relax my arms when I went for a mountain ride the other day and my shoulders were also getting fatigued. I realize it's a heavy machine but it steers like a Sherman tank. I'm definitely thinking of changing over to a 130 Michelin Commander II. The 130 width should theoretically turn in a little easier and the Commander II's have worn like iron and never had traction issues on any of my other bikes.

 

 

Treb, Reading your statement about the Avon Venom,,

Years back I tried the Venom 130 on the front and did not like it. It followed it's own path too. I went back to stock size front (still Avon way back then).

 

Fast forward to about a year ago, I put a Michelin Commander II 130 on the front and it is a great tire, does not have the issues the smaller Venom had. Now, I'm sold on the 130.

(Thanks Mark Shield and a few others who twisted my arm.)

 

Mike G in SC

[VentureFar]

I first put on leveling links and that took 50 percent of the muscle out of the steering. Then did the 130 front (gen2) and to me the bike feels like it has power steering. The only negative is in severe crosswinds the bike requires two hands on the bars. With the stock wide front tire I was comfortable in crazy crosswinds just holding on with one hand.

FYI ultimatemototcycling.com bought me a set of Pirelli MT66’s and I now have 5000 miles on them. They still look brand new and they actually feel like they cushion the ride. They are really inexpensive.

Everyone: remember when changing your rear tire make sure to rotate your brake pads they wear incredibly uneven

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited November 4, 2018 by VentureFar

[Treb]

I first put on leveling links and that took 50 percent of the muscle out of the steering. Then did the 130 front (gen2) and to me the bike feels like it has power steering. The only negative is in severe crosswinds the bike requires two hands on the bars. With the stock wide front tire I was comfortable in crazy crosswinds just holding on with one hand.

FYI ultimatemototcycling.com bought me a set of Pirelli MT66’s and I now have 5000 miles on them. They still look brand new and they actually feel like they cushion the ride. They are really inexpensive.

Everyone: remember when changing your rear tire make sure to rotate your brake pads they wear incredibly uneven

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the reply I just tightened the steering head bearings and that got rid of some of the "OH $hit" feeling in every corner. But that Avon tire still wants to follow every crack in the road...and BTW what are leveling links?

[VentureFar]

Thanks for the reply I just tightened the steering head bearings and that got rid of some of the "OH $hit" feeling in every corner. But that Avon tire still wants to follow every crack in the road...and BTW what are leveling links?

 

metal pieces that hold your rear shock in place are replaced by ones about 3/4 in longer . They raise the rear end to change the steering geometry to make the end feel lighter.

Do a search on it. Plenty of talk and specs. I bought mine from “ diamond ...something.com

cant remember the site name exactly but you will find it with a search on this forum.

Some people lower the front end to accomplish the same thing.

Venturefar...

[RDawson]

metal pieces that hold your rear shock in place are replaced by ones about 3/4 in longer . They raise the rear end to change the steering geometry to make the end feel lighter.

Do a search on it. Plenty of talk and specs. I bought mine from “ diamond ...something.com

cant remember the site name exactly but you will find it with a search on this forum.

Some people lower the front end to accomplish the same thing.

Venturefar...

 

Actually shorter links raise the bike. I made mine following Freebird's instructions in the read only library. They work great. 1/4 inch shorter than factory raised the bike about an inch according to his calculations. I went from a Baron's lowering kit that was on the 07 when I bought it to leveling links. Huge difference in the handling, not to mention I'm sort of long in the legs so it's much more comfortable to me.

 

Here is the link to Freebird's links.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?492-Leveling-Links-Raising-the-Rear-of-the-RSV

[VentureFar]

Actually shorter links raise the bike. I made mine following Freebird's instructions in the read only library. They work great. 1/4 inch shorter than factory raised the bike about an inch according to his calculations. I went from a Baron's lowering kit that was on the 07 when I bought it to leveling links. Huge difference in the handling, not to mention I'm sort of long in the legs so it's much more comfortable to me.

 

Here is the link to Freebird's links.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?492-Leveling-Links-Raising-the-Rear-of-the-RSV

 

 

Yup. I am at the CRS stage of life.

Thanks RDawson.

I hate spreading disinformation...

VentureFar...

[vzuden]

As mentioned, raising the rear about an inch makes a world of difference. If you can handle a slightly taller seat height it works great. However if this makes the seat to high you can accomplish the same thing by sliding the forks higher into the triple tree, thus lowering the front the same amount.

[RDawson]

Wish I could say I wasn't at the CRS stage myself, I re-read the instructions Freebird had in the link when I looked it up or I wouldn't have remembered it either.

[grubsie]

But that Avon tire still wants to follow every crack in the road

 

I never heard anything good about the Avon Venoms. The new E4 is just that. New. Not enough feedback yet on how good they are. At least for me. But I have to say, I have been using the Avon Cobras ever since they came out and I will never use anything else but them unless something far, far better comes out. They are amazing to say the least. It's like riding on rails in the corners and rock solid cruising the highways. I had them on my last RSV and have them on all my current bikes. 2009 Road Star, 2013 HD Ultra, 1997 HD Road King. Also, on my recent RSV purchase, I immediately put a Cobra on the rear as the tire that was on the bike had a plug in it. I am going to replace the Shinko on the front over the winter with an Avon Cobra. I swapped the front wheel from my Road Star with the 130/90 Cobra tire onto the RSV to test the ride it. Glad I did. I am for sure going to replace the Shinko tire with a 130/90 Avon Cobra. They are that good. Best ride I have ever had on all the bikes I own. To me, the 2 most important items on a motorcycle are the tires and brakes. They are the best defense you have out on the road. Cost or mileage that you get out of either one is secondary.

Edited November 5, 2018 by grubsie

[Treb]

As mentioned, raising the rear about an inch makes a world of difference. If you can handle a slightly taller seat height it works great. However if this makes the seat to high you can accomplish the same thing by sliding the forks higher into the triple tree, thus lowering the front the same amount.

 

OK I thought it had something to do with the front end like a steering damper or the like. I'm pretty sure the PO told me already did this but I am unsure of how to tell for sure. Is there a way to positively identify the smaller link?

[RDawson]

The original links had the holes at 6-7/8 inches on center. Leveling links at 6-5/8 inches. You may be able to to see the difference if the PO used homemade links without measuring. Look in Freebirds post and you can see the difference in shape. If he bought links made to look like the original you may have to measure them.

[Treb]

The original links had the holes at 6-7/8 inches on center. Leveling links at 6-5/8 inches. You may be able to to see the difference if the PO used homemade links without measuring. Look in Freebirds post and you can see the difference in shape. If he bought links made to look like the original you may have to measure them.

 

Thanks guys I'll have a look this weekend...

[Treb]

Well after looking back at this thread I noticed I kind of hijacked it...sorry about that. That being said I measured my links and they are 6 5/8" and look to be factory, not home brewed. Took it out for about a 100 mile run today and the handling has improved with tightening the steering head nut. The mileage is however not impressive. I'll start another thread on that but thanks for the info on the leveling links anyway...

[BratmanXj]

Just purchased an E4 rear for my '99 after a few Shinko 230 Tourmasters. I liked the Shinkos for the 80 load rating (992lb) vs the E3 at 908lb or Commander at 827lb. The Shinkos were soft and only got 10k miles out of a rear. The new E4 has 992 lb load rating...will report back in a year or so on mileage.