wrscomncents

For anyone else having this issue it appears to be the starter solenoid. Did a quick trace and there is a crack in the solenoid where the electrical plug attaches to the solenoid. I'm pretty sure this is the issue but either way it must be replaced.

So I took a ride to the store today and when I came out and turned on the key everything powered on as normal but nothing when I hit the starter switch. I switched the ignition on and off several times along with the kill switch and still nothing. I had to push the bike up a hill and was able to start her up coming back down by throwing it in gear. I just got it home and still not turning over. I've had zero problems with starting up to this point. No warning at all. So before I start trouble shooting I thought I would throw a post up and see if anyone has had this issue. It's a 99 with about 29000 miles on it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Here is something that happened to me. I did some work on my bike including rebuilding the carbs and took it out on a test ride before replacing the lower leg cowlings. The ram air into the carbs would cause the engine to do exactly what you are describing. Not sure if you are riding without those but if you are put them on and ride it again.

I use Quicksilver 20w-50 synthetic all year and I ride all year. I live in Oklahoma so it's not the same as when I was in Chicago but I've never had a problem. I just let it warm up a bit longer.

Yeah I was wondering if they were the same basic pump, as far as pressure is concerned. I tried to find the specs on both pumps to compare them but couldn't fine them. Actually I would have to rerun my fuel line if I were to go to a straight tube pump because the line comes down from the top and into the 90 degree tube. Fortunately changing the points out worked but it's good to know I can use the road star pump if I ever need to.

Yes every pump I've seen for the RSV is showing straight tubes. Mine is a Mitsubishi pump but as I said the outlet tube is hooked 90 degrees. I have seen pumps with the tube at 90 degrees for the road star. Just wondering if mine was switched out at some point. I bought the bike used and I only have about 29000 so I would be surprised if that were the case. Anyway I did replace the points and it is back in and working. I was just curious if anyone else has run across this. Thanks to all for the responses.

I just had my fuel pump fail and replaced the points as suggested. I haven't put it back together yet so not sure if the problem is fixed. I have noticed though while going through the posts here and also searching for a new pump that there seems to be a difference in my pump and the ones pictured here and also the replacement pumps I've come across. On all of the pumps I'm seeing the inlet and outlet tubes are straight. On my pump the outlet tube is at a 90 degree angle and the inlet tube is straight. I have a 1999 RSV. Is this the original equipment pump or has it possibly been switched out at some point. The fuel line to the carbs comes down into the 90 degree tube so it makes sense why its turned 90 degrees.

You might want to try the running lights I listed above. Only $40.00 bucks and went right in. Work great.

I used these in mine. I bought the two pack because my son used one in his Yamaha Bolt. They are sold as singles also. It is an excellant light which has about the highest Lux rating of any of the LED replacement bulbs. Do a little research and you will find that it is the Lux rating that matters the most. High lumens are worthless if the light is scattered all over. Including into the eyes of oncoming drivers. They are a little pricey but totally worth it and the best part is no modifications necessary. https://headlightrevolution.com/gtr-lighting-gen-3-ultra-series-led-headlight-bulbs-h4-9003/ I followed that up with these for my running lights. The difference with this combination from the stock lighting is unbelievable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E69CZJE/?coliid=I3EDO28X0EVK7K&colid=1WN99MJKZL26F&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I had a similar problem with my clutch slipping on acceleration and I changed over to Rotella 15/40 and it stopped slipping. I recently switched over to synthetic Quicksilver motorcycle oil which is 20/50 and I really like that. That being said if it is your clutch and you want to change it here is a youtube video that may be helpful.

Nice looking bike. Looks just like mine except I don't have the bag guards or the trunk rack. I might have to look into them after seeing yours. I also went with the Michelin and the smaller tire up front. Really like the difference in handling. Some have said it is not as stable on the highway but I haven't experienced any problems. Have a good trip.

I have a 99 that had been sitting for a while when I bought it. I did the fogging that Steven G. is talking about and my compression increased substantially. I would highly recommend it.

I have a similar problem but mine will actually set after a few tries. Here is the post I placed. Scroll down to Du-Rron's reply. I haven't had a chance to do the job yet but I think it will correct my problem when I do. Maybe it will correct yours. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?140936-Cruise-control-speedometer

Just noticed it's $95.00 to ship. May be more then you want to spend.

Is it the right side? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-YAMAHA-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-RIGHT-SIDE-SADDLEBAG-LOWER/264317563590?hash=item3d8a8df2c6:g:d6wAAOSw82lc1b8J&frcectupt=true

Du-Rron Thanks for the reply. I do have the manual so I will take a look at all of those items. Thanks again.

Okay I'll try that. Thanks for the response.

Hi guys, I took a nice four hour trip last weekend and noticed a couple of things on the way. This is the first time I have really used the cruise control and also the first time I used a GPS while riding. First thing I noticed was my speedometer is off. It goes farther off the faster I go. For instance when I'm doing 65 by my speedometer I'm showing only 60 on the GPS. When I'm showing 80 on the speedometer I'm showing 73 on the GPS. Around 50 and below I'm pretty close to the GPS speed. It's not a big deal but I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if there is a way to adjust the speedometer. Second thing that I had a bit of an issue with is setting the cruise control. I had to push the set button several times to get it to lock on and sometimes it wouldn't lock at the speed I set it but would catch about five MPH below the speed I would engage at. Once it engaged I could increase speed by using the accelerate button and everything worked fine. I could also disengage the cruise and when I went back to resume everything worked flawlessly. So the issue seems to be only getting the cruise to engage. Once again not a terrible problem but just wondering if anyone has had the same issue and maybe has a fix. Thanks

Try partzilla.com

I'm also running the Michelin 130. I really like the way it handles.

I just switched over to it after reading a post on this site. I normally use synthetic but since the clutch rides in the same oil as the engine it seems that the Rotella 15-40 is a good match for the bike. Its definitely cheaper. http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=003010&id=201

I like that. Want to do something similar to mine. Does the tape deck come out through the front or did you have to split the fairing?. Was it a pain to get out?

All this talk of oil made me remember a post I read on this site about just that. Oil. Thought I would post the link since I found it interesting and very informative. http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=003010&id=201

I recently did mine on the exact same bike (1999) with the almost the exact same miles. They weren't way off but since I was inside I went ahead and did them. All of the intake were out of spec and none of the exhaust were out of spec. I'm guessing that I'll need to do the exhaust at the next check. The service manual does suggest checking them around 24000 miles. As the shims wear the tolerance actually gets tighter not looser so I'm not sure that that would cause any ticking from the cam. Not a super hard job if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. There are some great links on this site that will walk you through the process. Requires one special tool that you can get from your dealer or online. Good luck.

. That would be great if you can get the kit from skydoc. If you hava any trouble getting shims I used these guys for mine. Fair prices and shipped quickly. YamahaLarry. https://www.z1enterprises.com/engine-parts/shims/25mm-shims.html Just one other thing. I would mic the shims you remove and the shims you replace. I have found that they can be off slightly.