bongobobny Posted January 19, 2017 Share #51 Posted January 19, 2017 OK, grease. From what I understand Honda makes a great Moly grease. Myself I use Mobil synthetic. Yes, you will need a press to get the bearing off and on the triple tree. I had a friend pinch the bearing in a vice and proceed to hammer the triple tree shaft to remove one. Also, do not forget to replace the races which are inside the neck of the frame. You should never reuse the old races on a new bearing as it will lead to premature failure of the new bearing. The races need to be hammered out with a "pusher" like an old screwdriver. I did have to use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade on one of my races and cut a small section out first on one of my races. Do not worry if you cut a slight groove in the neck, it will not hurt a thing. Just don't go through the entire neck! As far as the anti dives go, it is actually a very simple task to hook them up, you simply use the brake line wire, the yellow circuit, and use it to trigger a simple SPST relay to apply 12 volts to the solenoids. Each solenoid has a black and white wire, connect the black to the black and ground them, and apply the 12 volts to the two white wires. If you prefer you can just leave them disconnected because, as mentioned, with the progressive springs they have a minimal effect as opposed to the stock springs. I took the time to hook mine up pretty much because it is an easy task to do and overall I like the anti-dive concept myself, others do not. As far as the make of the bearings, no, you do not need to use expensive OEM ones, just a good quality aftermarket brand. From what I remember I used "Balls" or something like that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share #52 Posted January 20, 2017 right? thank you guys for advice, as I am a tactile person had to do a bit of youtubeing to find out what yall where talking about haha. figured it out.stee.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 20, 2017 Share #53 Posted January 20, 2017 That's the brand I used, but not that kit. I bought mine separate. The kit package is probably less expensive. Bike Bandit is a good company to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share #54 Posted January 20, 2017 That's the brand I used, but not that kit. I bought mine separate. The kit package is probably less expensive. Bike Bandit is a good company to deal with. do you mean you buy the bearings and races separately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 20, 2017 Share #55 Posted January 20, 2017 do you mean you buy the bearings and races separately?No, bought each bearing and race, which is almost always sold together, separate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted January 21, 2017 Share #56 Posted January 21, 2017 In most cases, couldn't you just clean and repack the existing bearings? Doesn't seem to me they would get much wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share #57 Posted January 21, 2017 In most cases, couldn't you just clean and repack the existing bearings? Doesn't seem to me they would get much wear. I could, but from what I read and seen, the bearings wear thin grooves into the races. Im sure mine haven't been lubed in the last 20 years. So replacing them to get mine up to normal maintenance standards might be the best option. ill post pics of what they look like when I get them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilzhere Posted January 22, 2017 Share #58 Posted January 22, 2017 I could, but from what I read and seen, the bearings wear thin grooves into the races. Im sure mine haven't been lubed in the last 20 years. So replacing them to get mine up to normal maintenance standards might be the best option. ill post pics of what they look like when I get them off. in my 45 years and the many bikes Ive have the stem head bearings don't really get damaged from turning left or right they get trashed by hitting pot holes and such, even them road dividers. its up and down damage forward / back movement. this is a picture of a bad bearing/race that needs to be replaced. these were mine and i was bottoming out on the forks all the time or so i thought, so i tore down my entire front forks that weren't leaking and held air, pulled springs thinking i would need progressives but i read that Yamaha springs are 18 inches in length from factory, mine measured 17 7/8 ths. no need for new springs saved me some money, shined up my forks with 2200 grit sand paper to remove any nics in the tubes, changed out the fork seals and the triple tree stem bearings and been great for 2 years now. used Yamaha seals and All Balls bearings. if your bearings look like this replace them, i also found that i did have a side to side wobble when i first got the bike ...this took care of that also.. I now have a great front end...with working anti dive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 22, 2017 Share #59 Posted January 22, 2017 Yup! A picture is worth a thousand words there!! Also, after that many years, the grease tends to turn into something more like glue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share #60 Posted January 24, 2017 There isn't going to be much difference in the value of a Royale vs. a Standard. Things like condition, mileage etc. will probably affect the value more than the equipment options. All of the powertrain and structural parts are the same. Most of the body and electrical parts are also the same. Your fastest and cheapest way to get a rider is probably to use parts from the Royalle to complete the Standard. You could even move the Royalle options if you want them. If your goal is to turn a profit don't bother with a restoration. They're worth more in parts than as running motorcycles. what is the difference between the dashes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 24, 2017 Share #61 Posted January 24, 2017 The only difference was the Cruise control light on the MK1. Also, there is a difference between the '83 and '84 up dash with the CMU and clock, they are different locations and configuration, and the edge connectors for the wiring harness is different... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted January 24, 2017 Share #62 Posted January 24, 2017 So is the 83 royal and standard have the same dash? When I was looking to see if there was any difference it appeared to be same on yamahapartshouse.com Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 25, 2017 Share #63 Posted January 25, 2017 So is the 83 royal and standard have the same dash? When I was looking to see if there was any difference it appeared to be same on yamahapartshouse.com Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.Sort of, but the Standard dash will not have the red Cruise light on it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted January 25, 2017 Share #64 Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Sort of, but the Standard dash will not have the red Cruise light on it... I wasn't sure because I know the clock on royals are usually underneath the CMS but on the 83's I was thinking it looked pretty much the same as my dash on my standard. There is a few Ebay post that say 83 royal but the clocks are underneath instead of on top. I was trying to scavange some rotors for Matt and the motorcycle I have been eyeing for parts is a royal and it has the same dash as mine. Sad the only thing wrong with that bike is it has no title.... It has the second gear fix and about 32000 on it I believe. I have been trying to buy it for the parts but the guy won't let go of it because of morons in the past trying to title things that didn't have a title... Never fails always someone got to ruin it for someone else. But anywho I will get that rim w/rotors and junk tire ordered Friday I will probably have them ship it to you Matt. Edited January 25, 2017 by snyper316 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share #65 Posted January 25, 2017 I wasn't sure because I know the clock on royals are usually underneath the CMS but on the 83's I was thinking it looked pretty much the same as my dash on my standard. There is a few Ebay post that say 83 royal but the clocks are underneath instead of on top. I was trying to scavange some rotors for Matt and the motorcycle I have been eyeing for parts is a royal and it has the same dash as mine. Sad the only thing wrong with that bike is it has no title.... It has the second gear fix and about 32000 on it I believe. I have been trying to buy it for the parts but the guy won't let go of it because of morons in the past trying to title things that didn't have a title... Never fails always someone got to ruin it for someone else. But anywho I will get that rim w/rotors and junk tire ordered Friday I will probably have them ship it to you Matt. Ok ill pull it and ship it out. do you need the speedo line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted January 25, 2017 Share #66 Posted January 25, 2017 No just the dash Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share #67 Posted January 29, 2017 pictures are bad sorry heres a update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share #68 Posted February 19, 2017 There are a few threads on here about guys exchanging MkI forks for the MkII's. MkII lowers will fit the R1/R2 calipers and the forks are a straight swap. Be advised that the anti-dives on the MkI are hydraulically activated while the MkII anti-dives are electric. This means the springs should be upgraded to progressive ones which don't need working anti-dives. The forks you pictured are unlikely to fit as well as 1st gen forks, stick with what works. What's the recommended oil for mk2 forks with progressive springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted February 19, 2017 Share #69 Posted February 19, 2017 What's the recommended oil for mk2 forks with progressive springs? Just go ahead and use any standard 10 weight fork oil, just remember that you will be putting less oil in the tubes as the progressives take up more volume in the tubes due to the spring diameter...0.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share #70 Posted March 12, 2017 Just go ahead and use any standard 10 weight fork oil, just remember that you will be putting less oil in the tubes as the progressives take up more volume in the tubes due to the spring diameter...0.02 how much goes in each fork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share #71 Posted March 12, 2017 Will some one please post a picture of the front tire. I think I'm missing a spacer buy I don't know what it is suppose to look like. Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted March 13, 2017 Share #72 Posted March 13, 2017 Will some one please post a picture of the front tire. I think I'm missing a spacer buy I don't know what it is suppose to look like. Thank you!!! Hopefully I ain't too late to the party. I will go get one I guess your needing axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snyper316 Posted March 13, 2017 Share #73 Posted March 13, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_P Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share #74 Posted April 5, 2017 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108676http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108677http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108678http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=108679 Thank you!! i love the adornment on the fender!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaseyJ955 Posted April 5, 2017 Share #75 Posted April 5, 2017 (edited) Here is a link I refered to while doing my progressives. I redid my forks inclusing bushings and use synthetic import PS fluid from Valvoline, its a trick I learned from the Vmax side of the world and works great. http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001013&id=140 Edit: the link wants to go to the index, try a google "venturer progressive install". And it should take you directly there for gen1 intall walkthrough. I love their tech library, very nice collection of wisdom. Edited April 5, 2017 by CaseyJ955 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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