wannarsv Posted February 17, 2015 Share #1 Posted February 17, 2015 O.K. I just can't seem to get my head around this....I understand TDC , & lining up the marks. I understand checking #3 @180 #2 @430 & 4 @610. but my question is how do you GET these degrees? I know it is from #1 TDC but how do you measure it. How do you know it is the proper degree from TDC. Also is there anyone around Wake Forest N.C. that has done this & would like to help....or better yet let me help them? I was just telling my bride I just re-uped me membership last night...has definitely been worth it. Thanks, Melvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted February 17, 2015 Share #2 Posted February 17, 2015 You have to just watch how far you turn the crankshaft. For example, if you put a wrench on the shaft with the handle sticking straight up, then turn it clockwise so it is pointing straight back, you have turned the engine 90 degrees. Similarly, if you start with the handle pointing forward and turn it clockwise until the handle is point to the rear, you have turned it 180 degrees. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannarsv Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted February 17, 2015 O.K. That's what I needed to know, wasn't sure if there were marks or not. Thanks for the response, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 17, 2015 Share #4 Posted February 17, 2015 There are marks on the crank thru that tiny window. Page 3-10 of service manual. If you dont have one you can download a copy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted February 19, 2015 Share #5 Posted February 19, 2015 If you follow Goose's suggestion remember you do not have to be exact on the degrees as there is several degrees in the rotation where there is no lift from the cam so as long as you are as accurate as possible with the wrench position you should be OK. You can prove this by measuring, then move the wrench a little then remeasure. Go both ways and all three readings should be the same... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannarsv Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted February 20, 2015 I understand, Does it matter if you turn the engine clockwise or counterclockwise. I think the book says counter. Also do you guys "measure" all the valves first, then come back set them to spec or set them as you go. Thanks I really love this sight, and the help that is given. When I was younger I would tackle anything..and with confidence but the older I get my confidence in my mechanical ability has slipped a bit...I guess that is just one of the joys of getting older. Thanks Guys, Mel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted February 20, 2015 Share #7 Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Go with the book - counterclockwise. Measure them all first and then make adjustments. You will likely find the ability to reuse some of the shims in different locations. If you go one by one, you will not be able to do that. FYI - the clearance tolerance range is larger than the shim differences (range is .04 mm and the shims come in 0.005mm difference - or something like that). Set on the loose side of the tolerance. Measure each shim with a micrometer instead of trusting the markings. When installing, marked side goes down. RR Edited February 20, 2015 by RedRider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BratmanXj Posted February 20, 2015 Share #8 Posted February 20, 2015 range is .04 mm and the shims come in 0.005mm difference - or something like that. Set on the loose side of the tolerance. Measure each shim with a micrometer instead of trusting the markings. When installing, marked side goes down.RR Factory had .002mm difference shims but only .005mm available for purchase new. You can find the "2" & "8" shims through eBay or from someone who has done a valve adjustment and taken them out of an engine. Somewhere there is a nice excel spreadsheet that does all the calculations for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted February 20, 2015 Share #9 Posted February 20, 2015 Here is a link for a youtube video for adjusting the valves on a Gen 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 20, 2015 Share #10 Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) Turning clockwise puts a lot of stress on the cam chain guide on the slack side (side with the chain tensioner) so you want to go counterclockwise. The problem comes if you've got to replace shims. Then you'll have to go clockwise to either get the tool in or out. Go slow and easy going clockwise and be careful not to damage the head with the heel of the tool. Edited February 21, 2015 by MiCarl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 21, 2015 Share #11 Posted February 21, 2015 I roll mine over thru twice or so to check and make sure I get the same reading. carefull with the cast tool, there have been instances of getting one in a bind and breaking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted February 21, 2015 Share #12 Posted February 21, 2015 As others have said, you should turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation, as stated in the manual - I didn't bother to look it up, but I had to state a direction to turn for measuring 90 degrees in my example. You will not hurt anything to turn it in the reverse direction some as needed to get the cam set right where you want it or get the tool in and out, but you cannot measure the degrees between cylinder TDC unless you are turning it in the direction specified in the manual. Do go through the process of checking all valves before you decide to do anything - it doesn't take much extra time, and it will give you a "double check" for any measurements that you find out of spec. And if you are using straight feeler gauges, you will find it helps to get a few tests for comparison since you will need to push the gauge down in a bent arc to get it straight through the clearance, and that pressure on the gauge changes the way the "drag" feels when the gauge happens to be at exactly the same as the clearance. Also, if you change any shims, I strongly suggest you do another complete run through the measurements after you think you are all done, just as a final check that everything is now in spec. Every once in a while I can find that one of the shims had not totally seated when first measured, and after turning the engine completely through several times in those re-checks I catch the difference. It just gives me extra piece of mind that all is right before I close it all back up. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannarsv Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted February 21, 2015 Thanks so much guys for your input..I think I'm getting a good handle on it & will be ready to proceed when the kit gets here. I'm sure I'm "over thinking" this thing and once I get in there & get started it will all fall into place. Thanks again for all the help, comments & suggestions. Mel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted February 21, 2015 Share #14 Posted February 21, 2015 Here is the previously discussed Excel sheet for the shim calculations.Venture valve shim.xls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 22, 2015 Share #15 Posted February 22, 2015 Its times like this I miss my VTwin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motiv Posted February 22, 2015 Share #16 Posted February 22, 2015 Do we or should we have a shim exchange program? Just think about all those lonely shims out there sitting on a shelf or stuffed in a plastic bag just hoping to be used again by their owner but alas he needs a thicker or thinner one and the shim is sentenced to another period of loneliness! Now if that shim could join some sort of underground network of sharing by smuggling in a stamped envelope to make it's escape to a someone willing to take it in and hide it in their V4 valvetrain until it is time to share it again. P.S. I always wanted to use the word alas, hope I did it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 22, 2015 Share #17 Posted February 22, 2015 Do we or should we have a shim exchange program? Just think about all those lonely shims out there sitting on a shelf or stuffed in a plastic bag just hoping to be used again by their owner but alas he needs a thicker or thinner one and the shim is sentenced to another period of loneliness! Now if that shim could join some sort of underground network of sharing by smuggling in a stamped envelope to make it's escape to a someone willing to take it in and hide it in their V4 valvetrain until it is time to share it again. P.S. I always wanted to use the word alas, hope I did it right. The problem is that as the valves wear in we all need thinner shims. The kit would quickly end up full of 270-305 shims and none of the 250-265 most people are going to need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 23, 2015 Share #18 Posted February 23, 2015 Yea I got a boat load of big 200 like 280 290+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannarsv Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted March 3, 2015 Got it done, cranked up & didn't fly apart so I guess I did something right. Thanks for the help & info. I really appreciate all on this sight. Thanks again everyone,Mel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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