wannarsv

I tried that, but 5.1 Ft lbs isn't much. I have about determined that very thing, just must be the way it is. One thing bugging me is I'm usually more observant when working on something....Oh well! Thanks Again

Thanks for the help Ace. Guess no one else has any Idea.

61 inch lbs. My wrench would not go 5.1 so I converted to inch lbs. Thanks for the response.

Thanks I appreciate you posting that picture for me....Don't know why I couldn't get it to post probably to big.... Not real computer literate. Any way is the space between the swing arm & frame normal? Thanks for all the help, Mel

If I could figure that out I will do that very thing

O.K. got swing arm back together & torqued to spec......72 left 5.1 right. looks more normal. The only question I have at this point is, on right side pivot bolt there are some bolt threads showing between frame & swing arm, Is this normal? Thanks, Mel

Thought I did... but as I looked at it again I found some things that might be the culprit.....thanks for the response. Mel

It seems as though lately EVERY THING I attempt turns into a big fiasco. I guess it is just a time in life when we are supposed to learn.......I don't know but Im sure there is a lesson in here somewhere. Servicing my swing arm...bearings look good repack & reassemble. been a project over a period of several days...(work schedule & other issues) etc. The question I have is I have torqued the left side first...then the right, the left side seal appears to be flush with(up against) the frame while the right side is not, i.e. I can see threads on the pivot bolt on the right side. (The seal is not flush, or up against the frame). Almost like there should be a spacer in there or something. Is this normal? also the lock nut is only on about half a nut. is that normal. Probably didn't pay as much attention as I should have when disassembling....Hey maybe that's the lesson!!!!! Thanks Mel

Wish I would have read this earlier......bought 4 so I'd have them ran into the same problem.......solution?

I replaced my fuel pump a while back. then I ordered 2 sets of points replaced them in the original pump that I keep with me just in case & have an extra set of points to rebuild the existing pump. hopefully I'm prepaired

I believe I saw somewhere that Dunlop was offering a rebate if you buy a set (F&R)...don't remember where I saw that. Yep I just checked there web sight $50.00 rebate if you buy a set. cool deal.

I got mine a couple of weeks ago

Got it done, cranked up & didn't fly apart so I guess I did something right. Thanks for the help & info. I really appreciate all on this sight. Thanks again everyone,Mel

Thanks so much guys for your input..I think I'm getting a good handle on it & will be ready to proceed when the kit gets here. I'm sure I'm "over thinking" this thing and once I get in there & get started it will all fall into place. Thanks again for all the help, comments & suggestions. Mel

I understand, Does it matter if you turn the engine clockwise or counterclockwise. I think the book says counter. Also do you guys "measure" all the valves first, then come back set them to spec or set them as you go. Thanks I really love this sight, and the help that is given. When I was younger I would tackle anything..and with confidence but the older I get my confidence in my mechanical ability has slipped a bit...I guess that is just one of the joys of getting older. Thanks Guys, Mel

O.K. That's what I needed to know, wasn't sure if there were marks or not. Thanks for the response,

O.K. I just can't seem to get my head around this....I understand TDC , & lining up the marks. I understand checking #3 @180 #2 @430 & 4 @610. but my question is how do you GET these degrees? I know it is from #1 TDC but how do you measure it. How do you know it is the proper degree from TDC. Also is there anyone around Wake Forest N.C. that has done this & would like to help....or better yet let me help them? I was just telling my bride I just re-uped me membership last night...has definitely been worth it. Thanks, Melvin

I just checked I have some balls of steel 1/2" & 7/16". I almost forgot I had balls of steel till I read this post. But then I remembered a long time ago I need steel balls. so I got some. If you think My steel balls are what you need, then let me know I will put my steel balls in an envelope and mail them to you, Then you too my friend will have balls of steel. Melvin

Crush washers are as good Item to put on "the" list, so when you need a little something to complete an order to get to the minimum $ ammount to get free shipping. I keep a running list of such items, anything you know your gonna need. why not I'm all for "free" shipping.

I changed mine.Took it to the dealer (still under warranty) they wouldn't listen to anything I had to say. Everyting I tried to tell them they just looked at me like I had three eyes. So I figured they are WAY smarter than me, so they don't need me there. Sad that they could care less about having a dissatisfied customer. If the truth be know, Even if I worked for Barnum & Bailey, I wouldn't want those clowns working on my bike. Melvin

Three years ago last march I bought a 2008 for 11,500. Had 158 miles on it. My warranty runs out next month (for what that's worth). Now we have close to 50,000 miles on it. LOVE IT! LOVE IT! LOVE IT! I think I got a good deal. Melvin

Thanks Guys,,,will do & will do. Just now got the sight back up on my computer. Thanks Again, Mel

O.K. I think my fuel pump is in the process of going south. According to the manual resistance should be 4-30 Ohms. My checks out at 2.1. If I'm correct, that is showing the pump as "bad". I checked a NEW in the box pump, It is showing less than that. What gives....electrical ALWAYS screws me up. What am I missing? Thanks, Melvin

Me too..Just sent an PM

Been reading up on fuel pump issues. I think I'm starting to have issues. I've read on the forums a lot of ways to "test" the fuel pump, But haven't seen anything referring to the manual and checking resistance. When it comes to electrical I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer......O.K. when it comes to most things, I not the sharpest knife in the drawer. But that would seem to me to be a sure fire way to test the fuel pump (Page 8-46) Comments?