tufftom4 Posted February 7, 2015 Share #1 Posted February 7, 2015 I have a 92 Winnebago Brave with a 454 CHEVY p-30 Chassis and it was running then just stopped it will crank all day but no spark so I changed the coil and distributor with no luck and I did check all fuses I looked to see if there was a crank sensor and I could not see one. If anyone has any knowledge of the old 454's let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peder_y2k Posted February 7, 2015 Share #2 Posted February 7, 2015 You certain the fuel system is working? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaharly Posted February 7, 2015 Share #3 Posted February 7, 2015 I have a 92 Winnebago Brave with a 454 CHEVY p-30 Chassis and it was running then just stopped it will crank all day but no spark so I changed the coil and distributor with no luck and I did check all fuses I looked to see if there was a crank sensor and I could not see one. If anyone has any knowledge of the old 454's let me know. Maybe it has one of those ceramic resistors on the fire wall? Try that maybe? Just a shot in the dark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamue Posted February 7, 2015 Share #4 Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) There is a module in that distributor small black or gray with flat pins. It plugs into a harness under the cap. They go bad and you are describing the symptom exactly. Pretty easy fix if that is the culprit. Module usually cost $30 to $50. Could probably YouTube and there will be a video by someone fixing this issue. This is called the distributor module been awhile since having a Chevy. But these module go bad at anytime and a good idea to have a spare. They usually go out after the vehicle is shut off from being hot. Sometimes after they cool the vehicle will start and run but not for long. Just a thought and something I had happen to me more than once with Chevy 350s and 454s. Edited February 7, 2015 by Shamue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted February 7, 2015 Share #5 Posted February 7, 2015 Yep, that module is a common failure. Might check the books and see if GM used that module in the 350's, if they did - go to junk yard and pull a few of em (buck a piece at our yards) - cheap way to see if thats what it is.. If that don't help and its got a lot of miles on it. Might wanna bump the motor around so the timing marks lines up, check the position of the rotor and make sure its lining up with the #1 terminal on the cap like its suppose to. Worn out timing chain/gears can cause some issues like your describing too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted February 8, 2015 Share #6 Posted February 8, 2015 If you pull the module and take it to parts store most can test them common failure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted February 8, 2015 Share #7 Posted February 8, 2015 if you replace the module make sure and use the jelly on it or you will be doing it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vzuden Posted February 8, 2015 Share #8 Posted February 8, 2015 if you replace the module make sure and use the jelly on it or you will be doing it again yes, you will need to use the isolution lube. I don't recall exactly what it is called but I used to keep a tube of it in my toolbox for this job. It may even come with a new module. The correct name of this part is Ignition Module and it replaced the old points and condenser set up they used to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted February 8, 2015 Share #9 Posted February 8, 2015 Yup the module was the first thing I thought of. Not a GM eficanado but I did race sbc for some years. Once I went to the HEI ignition, I learned to keep a complete spare cap and guts as they would fail at dangdest times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufftom4 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted February 8, 2015 I had the module in the distributor checked and it is ok but I still have no spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufftom4 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted February 8, 2015 I had the module in the distributor checked and it is ok but I still have no spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted February 8, 2015 Share #12 Posted February 8, 2015 There is a red wire coming to the cap. on the top of the cap it should say BAT. need to make sure this wire has power with the key on. i have also seen the wires on the inside of the dis. that plug into the module will break and they will look ok but the copper will be broken under the vinyl insulation. need to give the wire a light pull test. one other thing to look at is under the cap, at the roter button to make sure it has no holes burnt thought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted February 8, 2015 Share #13 Posted February 8, 2015 There is a red wire coming to the cap. on the top of the cap it should say BAT. need to make sure this wire has power with the key on. i have also seen the wires on the inside of the dis. that plug into the module will break and they will look ok but the copper will be broken under the vinyl insulation. need to give the wire a light pull test. one other thing to look at is under the cap, at the roter button to make sure it has no holes burnt thought it. check out pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted February 11, 2015 Share #14 Posted February 11, 2015 Are you sure the distributor is turning? Check the roll pin on the dist. shaft gear. Bad coil? 12v to the Batt. terminal? Only other thing it could be is the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted February 11, 2015 Share #15 Posted February 11, 2015 there is a star pick up on the dist shaft it has a point for every cylinder to change it you have to pull the dist knock the roll pin off the gear pull the shaft off change it and put it all back together. there is a oams test u can do to test it but cant remember how. Ps I bought a high performance dist off flea bay for 90.00 that may be the easiest way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now