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OK, I am having thoughts here. That is always dangerous.

IF Marks is truly no longer offering this. I have no desire to compete with anyone.

 

Since I did not get to ride this year for health reasons, I will not have a winter bike project to mess with.

I have a couple ideas on how to make up a new collector but I would need one to get measurements from.

 

Anyone have one that they are not needing? It can be very ugly with holes or other damage as long as it has the 6 nipples and mounting bracket all still in the right place, so I can take measurements to locate all of that correctly.

 

This will be a long project so I would need a collector that you do not need back real soon.

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OK, I am having thoughts here. That is always dangerous.

IF Marks is truly no longer offering this. I have no desire to compete with anyone.

 

Since I did not get to ride this year for health reasons, I will not have a winter bike project to mess with.

I have a couple ideas on how to make up a new collector but I would need one to get measurements from.

 

Anyone have one that they are not needing? It can be very ugly with holes or other damage as long as it has the 6 nipples and mounting bracket all still in the right place, so I can take measurements to locate all of that correctly.

 

This will be a long project so I would need a collector that you do not need back real soon.

 

I've got a spare from my 86 parts bike. It's in good shape, so I've been saving it.

 

Shipping would be stupid though. Stupid both ways.

 

I can take measurements for you if you'd like.

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BJ, next time you get to bar Harbor or Portland (do you ?) put it in mail then. Save lots-O-bux...I would think. But I don't know what goes on when you carry a package from A to B.

 

Or if any members are traveling to Maine/NS this summer...maybe youse guys can meet and exchange exhaust collectors. (so to speak). Heck, If I still lived in NH, I would be up there in a flash just to take the ferry and ride your area!

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I have an extra collector. I have also been trying to find someone to make a replacement for the one I have on my current bike. I part out bikes so I won't need it back but would love to be one of the first to get a proper replacement. I put a couple of mac mufflers on my stock collector and am afraid the nipples will finally snap off soon. Let me know where to send it and it will be off to you quickly.

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I will be needing to repair mine before a new one comes to market though, I'm afraid.

 

I have mine off the bike and can help with some measurements as well.

 

Why not just a bend on either side that connects that front to the rear nipple. From there cut an opening along the side of either and weld on a short pipe for the muffler to connect to. Finish it up with a crossover pipe between the two sides a little forward of the where the muffler nipples are welded on and weld the front bracket to that. It may not be the most high performance version possible but it would be simple-ish.

 

I was trying to find the thread but somewhere I saw that even Mark's pipe later added a crossover between the two sides.

It does seem like some info in this thread indicates that maybe the crossover was changed for some reason?

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I did find some help for those who may be planning to rework a collector.

 

The only clamps I could salvage were the two on the mufflers, the other four were trash with the bolts badly rust locked.

I have great hopes that these new clamps will be easier to get a socket on the nut since it projects out there.

I also think that they will seal better than the originals because they have a band throughout the full circle.

dk442693b.jpg

The Cobra 95-2950 1.5" stainless exhaust clamp is a great deal at $6.98 from Dennis Kirk

https://www.denniskirk.com/cobra/stainless-t-bolt-exhaust-clamp.p442692.prd/442693.sku

 

 

I need some stainless tubing to recreate the rear sockets since it seems that is where my leak was.

The existing metal is so thin as to be nearly gone and it's distorted somewhat as well.

Grainger has a closeout on 1.5" OD stainless tubing, 1 ft @ $13.20

2FGF5 Tubing,Sanitary,1 1/2 In OD,316L SS,1 Ft 1.00 EA 13.20 13.20

 

I measured about 1.25" or close to 33mm for the front pipes and the rear nipples.

The sockets these fit into are as much as 1.5" inside or between 36mm and 38mm.

There is still a little of the seal material I didn't disturb and so I only measured the upper areas beyond the seals.

The tubing I will use to repair the damaged sockets is stated to be 1.37" ID and 1.5" OD.

Outside of those sockets where the clamp goes are around 1.5" but there's corrosion and it flares a little wider above the clamp area.

The output ends where the mufflers go are about 1.5" and the sockets on the mufflers are about 1.75".

There's roughly .25" of difference that the seals account for in each of these connections.

I plan to use high temp copper silicone to seal each of the connections inside and leave it to cure for several days before starting it.

 

Why am I telling you this?

So you can tell me a better way or congratulate me on a good plan.

One way or another, let's hear it?

 

:confused24::doh: :detective: :fishin: :doh::confused24:

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I did find some help for those who may be planning to rework a collector.

 

The only clamps I could salvage were the two on the mufflers, the other four were trash with the bolts badly rust locked.

I have great hopes that these new clamps will be easier to get a socket on the nut since it projects out there.

I also think that they will seal better than the originals because they have a band throughout the full circle.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101141[/ATTACH]

The Cobra 95-2950 1.5" stainless exhaust clamp is a great deal at $6.98 from Dennis Kirk

https://www.denniskirk.com/cobra/stainless-t-bolt-exhaust-clamp.p442692.prd/442693.sku

 

 

I need some stainless tubing to recreate the rear sockets since it seems that is where my leak was.

The existing metal is so thin as to be nearly gone and it's distorted somewhat as well.

Grainger has a closeout on 1.5" OD stainless tubing, 1 ft @ $13.20

2FGF5 Tubing,Sanitary,1 1/2 In OD,316L SS,1 Ft 1.00 EA 13.20 13.20

 

I measured about 1.25" or close to 33mm for the front pipes and the rear nipples.

The sockets these fit into are as much as 1.5" inside or between 36mm and 38mm.

There is still a little of the seal material I didn't disturb and so I only measured the upper areas beyond the seals.

The tubing I will use to repair the damaged sockets is stated to be 1.37" ID and 1.5" OD.

Outside of those sockets where the clamp goes are around 1.5" but there's corrosion and it flares a little wider above the clamp area.

The output ends where the mufflers go are about 1.5" and the sockets on the mufflers are about 1.75".

There's roughly .25" of difference that the seals account for in each of these connections.

I plan to use high temp copper silicone to seal each of the connections inside and leave it to cure for several days before starting it.

 

Why am I telling you this?

So you can tell me a better way or congratulate me on a good plan.

One way or another, let's hear it?

 

:confused24::doh: :detective: :fishin: :doh::confused24:

 

The clamp looks good, But I would replace the nut with an all metal lock nut. The nylon locking inset will melt at header pipe temps.

 

The tubing looks like it should do the job.

 

Once you have your tubes cut to length ready to install you could take them to most any muffler shop and get them to expand the end to be exactly what you need.

 

Otherwise, sounds like it should work.:thumbsup:

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I'd really like to know if anything's going to get done with the collector boxes. I finally started rebuilding the exhaust with new downpipes and tightening up those really strange connectors on the rear manifold/downpipes, but the junctions into the connector box are pretty rotten.

 

There are a couple on EBay in the states, but postage and customs duties rack the price up to near the new price in Europe, though they're listed as temporarily unavailable on a lot of sites. My other choice is to invest in a MIG welder and have a go before it rots out completely. I've always struggled with a stick welder before, but I'm out of practice now and think I'd just make things worse. That will only get me a bit more life out of it and a decent alternative could be a good investment, so I'd be interested.

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I have taken my front pipes off maybe 6 times. Disassembled the whole exhaust 2 or 3 times over the last 25 years. Being careful to do things smoothly with WD40 and patience. Never changed the seals or gaskets. I only changed the Copper rings rear head pipes when I pulled the motor out. Still don't leak the slightest anywhere. The seals at the collector are very good quality back then. Thus the Orange silicone may be overkill you do not need. And makes taking it apart in the future a bit more work.

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I agree that you should touch the exhausts as little as possible, but in my case it was removing the right hand silencer to get to the back wheel that killed the junction point on the first one. The one I replaced it with was second hand and after a while the mounting bracket came off which put a bit of play into the whole system.

 

Basically the weather here means that exhausts eventually rot away - the downpipe double skin rotted through and taking it off to weld it meant more movement. That really is why a good collector box solution would be so good - it would mean we could sort out issues with the exhaust system without creating new ones.

 

I've ordered my MIG welder...

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Well, I did speak with Mark McDade today at around noon. I had left messages for him on Friday last week. He's going to get started on a collector for me. He found the welding jig that he thought had been scrapped and he is taking orders with a price of $345 for stainless fabrication. He said it was fine with him if I got the word out that these are in production and he assured me that my unit is in queue ahead of the rest of yours.

 

Other pertinent info, it is designed to be used with the stock Yamaha seal set:

36 and 43 are both 3JJ-14653-00-00 (2) and 27 is 3JJ-14623-00-00 (4) on the fiche. 36 and 43 are $17 each and 27 is $14 each for a total of $90.

With the two front headpipe seals 11 sku 3GD-14613-00-00 (2) for $5 each it rounds out to an even hundred.

Mark said there is not a crossover pipe and the ground clearance is better than the stock collector.

 

 

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1993/XVZ13DE/EXHAUST/parts.html

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OK, so someone got a sweet deal on a gently used VR collector on ebay but what about the rest of us?

 

I just scored a seemingly good condition collector for $60 (Buy it NOW) with free shipping. The mounting bracket is cracked and the seller says that the internal baffle is loose, but examination of the "nipples" and the welds shows little deterioration.

I'm posting this not as a gloat (well, maybe a little) but as advice. Be patient and diligently check eBay daily.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161796037467?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Exhaust Collector $60 free shipping, August 2015.jpg

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I just discovered my left rear nipple broke off I really hope another one turns up reasonably priced like that one. I'm sure they'll discover more gold in them now that I need one. Looking at that picture and where mine broke I doubt I can get it repaired, but I can always hope

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